UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT  LOS  ANGELES 


8 


MEXICO? 


SI,  SENOR. 


BY 

THOS.  L.   ROGERS. 


"Space  there  is  for  all  to  travel, 
Therefore  is  the  world  so  wide." 

Wilhelm  Meister 


REVISED  EDITION. 

BOSTON : 
1894. 


Copyrighted,  1894, 

BY 

Mexican  Central  Railway  Co., 
Limited. 


ENGRAVED   AND    PRINTED   AT  COLLINS    TRESS,   BOSTON. 


V 


MEXICO  ?     SI,  SENOR. 


CAUTION. 

^O  avoid  disappointment,  don't  expect 
too  much  !  This  book  is  not  intended 
to  be  a  History  of  Mexico.  It  does 
not  contain  even  all  that  the  writer 
knows  about  that  country ;  and  what 
he  does  not  know  would  fill  several 
large  volumes.  Its  purpose  is  to  call 
attention  to  some  of  the  places  and 
things  in  Mexico  that  are  both  worth 
seeing  and  worth  going  to  see. 

The  towns  mentioned  lying  north 
of  the  city  of  Mexico  are  on  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway,  the  main  line  of  which  runs  through 
the  centre  of  the  country  1,224  miles,  from  Juarez,  the  border 
city  on  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  El  Paso,  Texas,  to  the  capital. 
One  branch  or  division  of  the  road,  415  miles  in  length,  connects 
the  capital  with  Tampico,  the  only  good  harbor  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  Another  division  reaches  out  161  miles  westward  from 
the  main  line  to  Guadalajara,  the  second  largest  city  in  the 
country,  and  will,  one  of  these  days,  be  extended  to  the  Pacific. 
Two  other  branches  serv^e  the  two  great  mining  cities,  Guanajuato 
and  Pachuca,  This  great  central  thoroughfare  is  the  principal 
railway  of  the  Republic,  and  the  only  line  of  standard  gauge 
connecting  the  city  of  Mexico  with  the  United  States.  The 
Mexican   Central   Railway   Company   operates,  at   the    present 


162297 


time,  1,846  miles  of  road,  passing  through  eleven  states  and  the 
Federal  District,  and  serving  cities,  towns,  and  states  which 
contain  over  6,000,000  people,  more  than  half  the  population  of 
the  whole  country.  In  road-bed,  bridges,  and  equipment  this 
line  offers  the  best ;  its  whole  management  is  first-class  in  every 
respect.  Whoever  makes  the  trip  to  and  from  Mexico  over  this 
line  only  will  see  a  large  part  of  the  country,  and  learn  a  vast 
.'imount  about  its  people  and  their  institutions. 

The  cities  and  towns  mentioned  here  lying  beyond  the  capital, 
south  or  east  or  west,  are  reached  by  the  National,  the  Mexican, 
the  Interoceanic,  or  the  Valley  railways,  or  by  the  street  car  lines 
from  the  city. 

From  among  the  many  excursions  made  and  places  visited 
we  have  selected  for  comment  only  those  which  are  most  inter- 
esting and  inviting  to  the  average  tourist ;  and  it  has  been  our 
aim  to  say  about  those  only  just  enough  to  convince  any  one  who 
is  fond  of  travel,  who  has  a  desire  to  see  this  beautiful  country 
and  the  picturesque  people  who  hve  in  it,  that  the  few  scenes 
referred  to  are,  of  themselves  alone,  worth  a  much  longer  journey 
and  a  much  greater  expenditure  of  time,  money,  and  trouble 
than  they  cost. 

The  writer  claims  to  be  only  a  "  looker-on  "  in  Mexico ;  but  as 
he  looked  on  in  twenty  of  the  twenty-nine  political  divisions, 
and  in  more  than  half  of  the  towns  of  the  country  having  a 
population  of  over  five  thousand  each,  and  as  he  looked  last  on 
the  capital,  Nov.  8,  1892,  he  may  safely  claim  that  he  has  seen 
something  of  Mexico  as  it  is  to-day. 

A  second  caution  like  unto  the  first,  and  yet  unlike  it,  may  not 
be  out  of  place.     It  is  this  :  — 

To  avoid  disappointment,  don't  expect  too  little.  The  im- 
pression has  gone  abroad  that  the  traveller  in  Mexico  cannot 
get  enough  to  eat.  Doubtless  many  of  the  natives  of  the 
country  do  not  have  four,  or  even  three  "  square  meals  "  a  day, 
but   the    reason   is  not  a  lack  of  plenty  in  the  country.     The 


average  tourist  keeps  to  the  line  or  spends  his  time  in  the  large 
towns,  and  no  one  with  money  enough  to  pay  for  meals  need 
worry  at  all  about  lack  of  satisfactory  provision  for  his  wants. 
Along  the  Central  road  the  eating  places  compare  favorably  with 
those  along  the  railroads  west  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  the 
management  is  rapidly  improving  them.  So  much  for  comfort 
along  the  line ;  and  as  for  the  cities  and  towns,  it  may  be  said 
that  they  have  been  slandered  by  those  who  expected  too  much, 
and  so  were,  of  course,  disappointed.  The  wonder  is,  taking  all 
things  into  account,  that  the  traveller  can  fare  so  well,  for  so 
little  money,  in  Mexico. 

And,  further,  don't  worry  about  the  language.  You  don't 
speak  Spanish?  Well,  no  matter,  the  Mexicans  will  speak  it  for 
you.  You  speak  your  English,  and  they'll  get  your  meaning  if 
there's  any  money  in  it.  You'll  have  lots  of  fun  watching  them 
interpret  your  remarks.  Keep  cool ;  be  patient ;  use  signs  in- 
stead of  words,  and  you'll  be  surprised  to  see  how  well  you'll  get 
along.  But  let  me  say  this  is  not  a  case  where  "  a  little  learning 
is  a  dangerous  thing";  a  little  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  Ian 
guage  is  a  very  valuable  thing  in  Mexico  for  the  traveller  fron^ 
the  States,  but  even  that  is  not  indispensable. 

MEMORANDUM. 

Things  to  take  :  Time,  patience,  money. 

Things  to  leave  :   Hurry,  worry,  work. 

If  so  be  that  you  shall  heed  the  above  cautions,  and  provide 
for  your  journey  "  as  per  memorandum,"  you  cannot  fail  to  have 
a  good  time  in  Mexico.     Si,  Sefior  ! 


I. 


"  Home-keeping  youth  have  ever  homely  wits." 

Two  Gi'ntle7nen  of  Verona. 


^ROBABLY,  if  people  knew  that  Mex- 
ico is  the  finest  summer  resort  on 
the  continent,  they  would  go  there 
in  July  as  they  now  do  in  January." 
"Summer   resort!     Mexico!      I 
never  heard  of  such  an  idea  !  " 
"  I  presume  you  never  did, 
'"   my  friend,  but  it  is  a  fact  that 
in  July,  August,  and  September, 
-^       our  hottest  months,  the  temper- 
ature of  the  city  of  Mexico  is  de- 
lightful, and  so  is  that  of  the  whole 
plateau.     Summer  is  the  best  time 
to  visit  the  country,  leaving  out  of 
account  the  places  on  the  coast." 
"You  surprise    me,  Major,  but  how  does  it  happen?     That 
country  is  very  far  south." 

"  Elevation.  That  word  tells  the  story.  When  you  get 
above  the  ocean  level  six,  seven,  eight  thousand  feet,  '  south ' 
doesn't  seem  to  count  for  much.  You  know  that  many  of  the 
'  eternal  snow '  peaks  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  equator.  Alti- 
tude beats  latitude,  every  time." 


"  Well,  you  have  given  me  a  new  idea,  and  in  good  time,  for 
I  am  under  contract  to  give  my  boys  a  trip  abroad  tliis  summer, 
I  think  I'll  suggest  to  them  three  months  in  Mexico." 

"  You  can't  do  better,  my  friend,  and  I  will  re-enforce  your 
suggestion,  for  I  am  going  there  myself;  and  if  you  will  put  them 
in  my  charge,  I  shall  be  delighted  to  have  their  company.  I 
love  those  boys." 

"That  settles  it,  then.  They  love  you  too,  and  they  often 
have  wished  that  they  could  go  on  some  trip  with  you.  Do 
you  really  mean  it.  Major?  " 

"Never  was  more  serious  in  my  life." 

"  I'm  delighted  to  hear  you  say  so.  It  seems  almost  too  good 
to  be  true  that  they  can  have  such  a  chance,  and  at  once.  When 
do  you  go?  " 

"  In  a  few  days  ;  say  a  week  from  to-day." 

"  Good  ;  that  will  give  us  time  to  get  them  ready.  What  about 
clothes?    They  want  a  summer  outfit  I  suppose,  light  all  round?  " 

"  Oh  no,  not  light ;  and  no  straw  hats  !  I  arrived  in  the 
capital  once  with  a  straw  hat,  but  as  I  didn't  see  any  one  wearing 
that  kind  of  a  tile,  I  shed  mine  the  next  day  and  wore  a  Derby 
ever  after.  No,  summer  clothes  in  Mexico  are  just  such  clothes 
as  we  wear  in  Boston  in  the  spring  and  autumn.  There  is 
seldom  an  evening  when  a  light  overcoat  is  not  needed,  and 
never  a  night  when  a  blanket  is  not  comfortable,  and  even 
necessary  in  Mexico." 

"The  boys  can  be  ready  in  two  days,  if  you  are  in  any  hurry." 

"  No  hurry.  In  the  land  of  inanana,  to  which  we  are  going, 
my  friend,  there  is  a  law  against  haste,  and  I  would  not  violate 
that  law  even  here  in  this  land  of  rush." 

"  Why,  Major,  I  believe  you  have  become  a  real  Mexican ; 
that  isn't  American  doctrine.  You  know  our  creed  is  '  hustle 
or  get  left.'  " 

"  Yes,  I  know  it,  but  lots  of  hustlers  get  left  too.  I  believe  in 
the    happy   medium,  the   golden    mean,  that   wise  worldly  old 


lAU/     ^tUl 


I  y 


Horace  praised  so  much ;  and  I  think  the  peo- 
ple of  this  lovely  land  of  Mexico  know  a  thing 
or  two.  They  have  given  an  afifirmative  answer 
to  the  question  of  Longfellow  :  — 

'Do  you  not  know  that  what  is  best 
In  all  this  restless  world  is  rest 
From  turmoil  and  from  worry? '  " 

"That  is  good  poetry,  and  I  don't  know  but 
it  is  also  good  philosophy,  Major ;  but  it  won't 
work  here." 

"  It  ought  to  work,  at  least  in  the  summer, 
and  I  am  going  where  it  will  work." 

"  I  wish  I  could  go  with  you.  But  next  to 
going  myself  will  be  the  thought  that  the  boys 
are  having  such  a  fine  time,  and  the  pleasure 
of  hearing  them  and  you  'tell  us  all  about  it' 
when  you  return.  I  must  rush  off  now  and  tell 
them  of  their  good  fortune  for  this  Columbian 
year." 

"  My  good  fortune  too,  if  you  please.  I 
shall  enjoy  their  company  as  much  as  they 
can  enjoy  the  excursion." 

This  conversation,  at  the  Algonquin,  be- 
tween Major  Teller  and  his  friend,  Mr.  New- 
ton, resulted  in  the  formation  of  a  party  for 
a  summer  tour  through  Mexico.  The  party 
consisted  of  the  Major  and  the  two  boys, 
Howard  and  Gardner.  The  Major  told  the 
boys  that  he  was  not  willing  to  be  the  only 
titled  one  of  the  party,  and  that  for  the  pur- 
poses of  this  trip  or  campaign,  if  you  like, 
Howard  should  be  a  captain,  and  Gardner  a 
little  corporal. 


After  recovery  from  the  duties  and  pleasures  of  the  "glorious 
Fourth,"  the  party  started  from  Boston,  July  8,  1S92. 

There  is  no  better  preparation  for  a  trip  in  a  foreign  land  than 
a  long  journey  in  one's  own  country.  Happily  such  a  journey  is 
a  necessity  for  the  great  majority  of  Americans  who  wish  to  visit 
Mexico.  To  those  who  make,  for  the  first  time,  the  excursion 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Rio  Grande  every  hour  is  a  revelation 
of  the  beauty  and  of  the  greatness  of  the  best  country  in  the 
world.  To  those  who  make  the  trip  for  the  hundredth  time,  it 
will  still  be  a  revelation  of  the  surprising  growth  and  prosperity 
of  the  people  who  live  under  the  Stars  and  Stripes. 

"  Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way,"  said  the  good 
and  wise  Bishop  Berkeley.  How  true  a  prophet  he  was,  only  he 
who  follows  that  course  can  know.  What  "  the  West  "  means 
words  cannot  tell.  Can  language  convey  to  a  blind  man  what 
"color"  means,  or  to  a  deaf  man  the  meaning  of  music  ?  No 
more  can  the  pen  of  the  most  "  ready  writer"  adequately  de- 
scribe our  country.  Give  to  each  valley  a  volume,  to  each  State 
a  shelf,  and  to  our  land  a  whole  library  in  way  of  description, 
and  yet  the  half  would  not  be  told.  One  must  see  it  or  not 
know  it,  and  see  it  often,  too,  for  its  rapid  growth  makes  it 
practically  a  new  and  another  West  every  ten  years. 

America  astonishes  the  world.  To  the  world  the  United 
States  is  America,  and  it  is  the  duty  as  well  as  the  pleasure  of 
every  citizen  of  our  great  Republic  to  see  and  to  study,  first  of 
all,  his  own  country.  The  school  on  wheels  is  the  only  first- 
class  teacher.  Consider  for  a  moment  what  a  lesson  in  geog- 
raphy, in  history,  in  political  economy  a  trip  of  three  thousand 
miles  across  our  country  can  be  made  to  convey.  There  is 
nothing  else  in  the  world  equal  to  it  for  pleasure  or  profit  in 
way  of  education.  Well  did  Covvper  understand  this  when  he 
said  :  — 

"  How  much  a  dunce  that  hath  been  sent  to  roam 
Excels  a  dunce  that  hath  been  kept  at  home." 


The  journey  from  Boston  was  full  of  never-ceasing  interest  to 
the  boys,  and  everywhere  the  evidences  of  progress  were  both  in- 
structive and  entertaining,  and  the  Major's  time  was  very  fully  occu- 
pied in  answering  their  numerous  questions.  As  Mexico  is  their 
objective  point,  however,  we  will  omit  the  details  of  this  part  of  the 
journey  and  consider  the  party  to  have  at  length  arrived  at  El  Paso. 

"  '  One  more  river  to  cross,' "  said  the  Corporal  exultantly,  "and 
we  will  be  in  the  land  of  pretty  soon,  by  and  by,  manana,  and 
poco-iioiipoy 

"  Yes,  the  land  of  sunshine  and  adobe  and  burros,"  added  the 
Captain. 

"Right,  both  of  you,"  said  the  Major;  "  it  is  that,  and  much 
more.  It  will  be  the  greater  wonder  to  you  for  this  journey 
through  our  own  country.  You  will  each  constantly  ask  your- 
selves the  question.  Why  is  this  so?  Why  is  Mexico,  which  is  so 
much  older  than  our  country,  what  she  is,  and  not  more  like  our 
own?  Why  have  a  thousand  years  done  so  little  for  her,  and  why 
have  three  hundred,  we  might  almost  say  07ie  hundred,  years 
made  the  United  States  the  greatest  nation  on  the  globe?  A 
(piestion  worthy  of  careful  study." 

"  It  is  vacation,  Major,  but  th's  kind  of  study  is  just  to  my 
liking,"  said  the  Captain.  "  I  don't  quite  see  what  Emerson 
meant  when  he  said,  'Travel  is  a  fool's  paradise.'  J'erhaps  I 
am  one  of  the  fools,  but,  certainly,  this  trip  has  been  a  perfect 
paradise  for  me  thus  far." 

"  And  to  me,  too,"  added  the  Corporal.  "  I've  learned  more 
about  the  United  States  than  I  ever  knew  before,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  fun  we  have  had  while  learning." 

The  conversation  was  interrupted  by  an  exclamation  from 
the  Corporal,  "  There's  El  Paso,  I  see  the  smoke  of  a  factory  !  " 

"  It  must  be  the  silver  factory  then,"  said  the  Major,  "  that  is 
the  smelting  works.  Yes,  here  we  are,  safe  and  sound,  and  no 
more  tired  than  when  we  left  home." 


"  I  feel  as  fresh  as  a  daisy,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"And  I  am  all  right,  too,"  added  the  Captain. 

"  How  about  something  to  eat?  "  asked  the  Major. 

"  Not  hungry,"  said  both  boys.  "  We  fared  sumptuously  every 
day.  How  comforting  it  was,"  said  the  Captain,  "  to  have  the 
restaurant  man  come  round  and  say,  '  Don't  hurry,  you  have  ten 
minutes  yet.'  " 

"And  how  nice,"  said  the  Corporal,  "  to  have  one  of  the  girls 
say,  'Have  a  little  more  chicken?'  or  'Will  you  have  hot 
cakes? '  " 

"  Yes,  that  is  nice,"  said  the  Captain ;  "  I  wish  we  may  find  it 
as  nice  along  the  Mexican  Central." 

"  You'll  find  it  so,"  answered  the  Major,  "or  as  nearly  so  as 
circumstances  will  allow.  You'll  have  no  occasion  to  complain, 
I  am  quite  sure.  You'll  find  plenty  to  eat  and  always  half  an  hour 
for  meals." 

"  And  here  is  El  Paso,"  exclaimed  the  Captain,  "  and  here 
and  now  rageth  the  dog  star." 

"  Let  him  rage,"  replied  the  Major,  as  the  party  stepped  into 
the  station.  "  This  is  the  middle  of  July,  and  it  is  his  time  to 
rage.  He  won't  have  us  but  one  day  at  most,  and  I  am  willing 
to  bet  that  it  is  not  as  hot  in  Kl  Paso  to-day  as  it  is  in  Boston. 
We'll  leave  our  baggage  here,  for  from  this  station  we  shall 
start  to-morrow  for  the  capital  of  the  Montezumas." 


■'^i^V^if^iifeif-'^^^J^ltV 


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II. 


'Thou  art  not  for  the  fashion  of  these  times." 

As  VoH  Like  It. 

'The  old  order  changeth,  yielding  place  to  new." 

Tlu  Passing  of  Arthur. 

TANDING  on  the  bridge  over  the  Rio 
Grande,  the  Major,  pointing  towards 
the  south,  said  to  his  companions, 
"  Yonder  is  the  land  of  wonders ;  to- 
morrow we  shall  enter  it,  a  land  which 
excites  the  admiration  of  every  visitor 
of  intelligence.  Its  past  history  is 
so  mysterious,  its  present  is  so  promis- 
ing, and  its  possibilities  for  the  future 
are  so  vast  that  the  thoughtful  mind 
has  the  widest  range  both  backward 
and  forward.  One  sees  here  a  giant 
touched  by  a  spirit  which  rouses  him  from  a  sleep  of  centuries 
and  reveals  to  him  at  the  same  time  what  he  did  not  seem  to 
know  before,  namely,  that  he  is  indeed  a  giant.  No  country  in 
the  world,  perhaps,  has  greater  natural  resources,  the  raw  ma- 
terial of  wealth,  than  Mexico,  but  until  recently  those  resources 
have  not  been  available.  Now  the  railroads  have  brought  the 
mountains  and  the  valleys  into  communication  with  the  world, 
and  Mexico  has  a  marvellous  future.  We  are  to  look  at  Mexico 
as  tourists.  We  may  be  called  sentimental  travellers,  for  we 
are  not  on  any  particular  business.  We  are  simply  sight- seers 
in  search  of  entertainment,  and  we  shall  surely  find  it,  if  we 


14 


keep  our  eyes  open.  You  boys  will  be  Howard  and  Gardner, 
or,  beg  pardon,  the  Captain  and  Corporal  in  'Wonderland.' 
You  will  wonder  at  what  you  see  and  at  what  you  don't  see. 
A  walk  of  half  a  mile-  from  this  bridge  will  reveal  to  you  as 
strange  scenes  as  you  would  find  in  Cairo  or  Calcutta.  It 
will  introduce  you  into  what  will  seem  almost  another  world, 
so  different  from  our  own  are  the  customs,  the  costumes,  and 
the  characteristics  of  the  people  even  here  on  the  border  line." 

"  And  this  is  the  Rio  Grande  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal.  "The 
name  sounds  bigger  than  the  river  looks." 

"  Well,  I  must  really  apologize  for  the  Rio  Grande.  I  don't 
think  he  expected  company  to-day.  This  is  no  fair  sample. 
You  remember  as  we  came  along  we  saw,  in  certain  places,  quite 
a  stream,  but  just  here  it  is  mostly  out  of  sight.  In  fact,  the 
river  seems  to  be  upside  down.  It  will  happen  so  once  in 
a  while,  and  besides,  that  is  the  fashion  with  many  of  these 
streams  in  the  far  West.  They  go  'on  a  tear'  part  of  the 
year,  and  then  take  a  rest,  a  siesta,  so  to  speak.  But  the 
Rio  Grande  never  gets  lost.  You  have  seen  it  above,  and 
if  you  should  go  below  here  a  hundred  miles  you  would  see 
how  it  has  tunnelled  its  way  through  opposing  rocks,  and  defied 
the  everlasting  hills  to  stop  it  on  its  way  to  the  sea.  Should  you 
see  the  result  of  the  battle  at  the  cafion  you  would  think  it 
worthy  of  the  name  of  '  grande,'  and  of  its  other  title,  '  bravo.' " 

"And  how  about  El  Paso?  That  means  'the  pass,'  I  sup- 
pose," said  the  Captain.  "  I  don't  see  anything  that  looks 
like  a  pass  here." 

"  No,  you  cannot,  but  the  place  is  properly  named,  for  all  that. 
You  must  remember  that  you  are  here  on  the  backbone  of  the 
continent.  Our  ascent  has  been  so  gradual  that  we  hardly  knew 
we  were  climbing  up  day  and  night  for  the  last  thousand  miles 
of  our  journey.  But  we  are  3,712  feet  above  sea  level  now,  and 
we  are  also  at  the  iowest  point  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  range  for 
2,000  miles.     Go  in  any  direction  from  here  and  you  must  climb  up 

IS 


hill.  This  town  seems  to  be  the  centre  of  a  great  star  with  shining 
iron  rays,  each  about  1,200  miles  long.  Look  at  your  map  and 
you  will  find  El  Paso  to  be  about  1,200  miles  from  the  city  of 
Mexico  on  the  south,  and  very  nearly  the  same  distance  from 
Kansas  City  on  the  north.  New  Orleans  on  the  east,  and  San 
Francisco  on  the  west.  It  seems  to  be  a  kind  of  cross-roads 
town,  but  it  is  a  lively  one.     It  is  a  typical  frontier  and  railroad 


BRIDGE   OVER    RIO   GRANDE. 

town.  The  rough  element  which  dominated  it  a  few  years  ago 
has  disappeared  or  has  been  suppressed,  and  now  it  is,  as  you 
see,  a  clean,  well-kept  town,  of  which  its  people  may  justly  be 
proud." 

"  Here  comes  a  car,"  exclaimed  the  Captain.  "  All  aboard 
for  Mexico.  It's  a  bobtail  car,  not  a  very  stylish  rig  for  us  to 
go  in  to  visit  our  sister  Republic." 

"  Look  out  for  the  mule  when  the  bell  rings,"  said  the  Cor- 
poral. 

"The  mule,  the  faithful  mule,"  said  the  Major,  "how  much 
this  country  owes  to  this  abused  servant !  His  praises  have  never 
been  properly  sung,  nor  have  his  virtues  been  fairly  recorded. 
His  vices  have  been  heralded  over  the  world  by  a  vicious  and 
venal  press,  the  function  of  which  seems  to  be  to  let  the   evil 


16 


which  men  (and  mules)  do  live  after  them,  and  to  see  to  it 
that  'the  good  is  oft  interred  with  their  bones.'  Even  so  genial 
a  soul  as  the  late  lamented  Josh  Billings  said,  'If  T  was  goin' 
to  attend  the  funeral  of  a  mule,  I'd  stand  in  front  of  him.' 
Now,  that  is  too  bad.  This  country  couldn't  have  been  brought 
to  its  present  high  degree  of  civilization  without  the  much- 
maligned  mule  and  his  little  brother  the  burro.  You  will  know 
these  comely  creatures  better  before  you  get  back  to  Boston, 
and  I'll  venture  that  you  will  think  of  them  kindly  ever 
after." 

As  they  entered  the  car,  the  Captain  remarked,  "  Why  !  the 
driver  is  smoking,  and  so  is  the  conductor  !  " 

"  Of  course,"  replied  the  Major,  "  and  so  are  the  passengers." 

"Upon  my  word,"  whispered  the  Corporal,  "  there  is  a  woman 
smoking  too.     Isn't  that  odd  ?  " 

"  Perhaps  so  to  you,  my  boy,  but  you  won't  notice  a  little 
thing  like  that  after  a  while.  All  over  Mexico,  everybody  or 
nearly  everybody  smokes.  I  never  saw  but  one  Mexican  who 
didn't  smoke,  if  he  had  anything  to  smoke,  and  he  was  on  a 
steamboat  on  Lake  Chapala.  He  positively  declined  a  cigar 
which  I  offered  him  !  " 

"  Perhaps  he  was  afraid  that  it  wasn't  a  good  one.  Major." 

"Well,  he  didn't  try  it.  He  was  a  curiosity,  sure  enough. 
He'll  be  put  in  a  museum  some  of  these  days.  Why,  the  Mexi- 
cans smoke  everywhere,  in  the  cars,  in  the  theatres,  in  the  stores, 
in  the  schoolhouses,  everywhere  except  in  the  churches.  But 
the  cigarette  is  the  article  in  universal  use.  I  never  saw  a 
Mexican  smoking  a  pipe,  nor  did  I  ever  know  of  one  who  acquired 
the  distinctively  American  habit  of  chewing  tobacco.  Give  the 
Mexican  his  due." 

"  Tiene  usted,  seiior,  algo  que  pague  derecho." 

"  No,  seiior,  nada." 

"Adios,  seiior  !  " 

"What  was  all  that,  Major?" 

17 


"That's  the  customs  officer  of  the  Mexican  Republic,  my  boy  ; 
we've  passed  !  " 

"  Short  work,  wasn't  it  ?  "  • 

"Yes,  that's  the  beauty  of  having  nothing;  that  is,  nothing 
dutiable." 

"Polite,  wasn't  he?" 

"Yes,  very  ;  there's  more  politeness  to  the  acre  in  this  country  — 
remember  we're  in  Mexico  now — than  there  is  to  any  dozen 
acres  north  or  east  of  the  Rio  Grande.  You'll  be  more  and 
more  impressed  with  that  flict  the  longer  you  stay  in  Mexico, 
and  most  deeply  impressed  when  you  recross  the  river  on  your 
way  home.  In  all  your  intercourse  with  these  people,  from 
highest  to  lowest,  you'll  find  them  like  the  two  old  worthies  of 
whom  it  is  written,  — 

'  In  all  they  did  you  might  discern  with  ease 
A  willing  mind  and  a  desire  to  please.' 

That  certainly  ought  to  be  set  down  to  their  credit,  and  so 
let  it  be  recorded." 

As  they  stepped  out  of  the  car  in  Juarez,  the  Captain  ex- 
claimed, "  Well,  I  hope  that  driver  has  tired  himself  out  with 
slapping  and  punching  and  pounding  that  poor  mule  ;  he  has 
tired  me  out  anyhow." 

"  Oh,  that's  nothing  !  The  mule  doesn't  care,  probably, 
and  the  driver  wouldn't  think  he  was  driving  if  he  didn't  do 
that.  Do  you  know  you  are  no  longer  under  the  protection  of 
the  '  Red,  White,  and  Blue  '  ?  You  are  under  the  'Red,  White, 
and  Green '  now.  The  sister  republics  dress  nearly  alike  in  the 
matter  of  flags.  Both  wear  stripes,  and  the  eagle  is  the  national 
emblem  of  each." 

"Well,  the  American  flag  is  good  enough  for  me,"  said  the 
Corporal. 

"  Right,  good  enough  for  anybody,  and  long  may  she  wave. 
But  our  Mexican  neighbors  enthuse  over  their  flag  and  national 


i8 


emblems  more  than  we  do,  and  let  us  applaud  their  patriotism. 
Their  heritage,  like  ours,  has  cost  blood,  and  no  people  on  the 
globe  excel  the  Mexicans  in  devotion  to  their  country." 

"A  great  city  this  is,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal  with  a  smile 
which  revealed  his  thought  better  than  his  words. 

"No,  not  great;  it  isn't  exactly  great,  it  is  hardly  a  small  one, 
but  still  it  is  a  cuidad.  We  have  some  cities  in  the  States, 
you  know,  that  are  not  beauties,  that  have  neither  the  grace  of 
age  nor  the  name  of  a  president.  There  is  Jones  City,  for  in- 
stance." 

"Well,  where  is  the  city,  anyhow?" 

"  My  dear  boy,  in  Mexico  a  city  requires  only  two  things,  a 
church  and  a  plaza.  In  the  States  still  less  is  required,  a 
saloon  and  a  cross-road  station  constitute  a  city.  I  have  seen 
several  '  cities,'  in  f^t,  vi'hich  consisted  only  of  two  posts  and 
a  signboard  with  a  name  on  it.  That  signboard  is  a  prophecy 
of  a  city  yet  to  be.  Well,  there  is  more  than  that  here,  a  great 
deal  more.  Here  are  several  streets  devoted  to  business,  some 
fine  stores,  a  large  new  customs  building,  and  a  big  lottery 
establishment.  What  more  do  you  want?  But  you  are  in  the 
'land  of  by  and  by,'  the  land  of  'some  time,'  and  of  'take  it 
easy.'  Don't  be  impatient.  They'll  get  there  one  of  these 
bright  days,  and  surprise  you  as  well  as  themselves.  You  see 
they  have  already  begun ;  there  has  been  more  growth  here 
in  the  last  ten  years  than  in  the  two  hundred  years  previous  to 
1880.  I'll  give  you  a  little  modern  history  now.  In  1865  this 
place  was  the  actual  capital  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico.  Wher- 
ever Benito  Juarez,  the  I'resident,  was,  there  was  the  capital, 
and  he  was  here  for  nearly  a  year,  keeping  out  of  the  hands  of 
the  French.  y\t  last  the  foreigners  were  beaten,  and  Juarez  and 
his  cabinet  resumed  business  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  He  was 
three  times  elected  President,  and  died  in  office  in  1872.  He 
was  pure  Indian,  a  grand  specimen  of  the  old  Aztec  race.  He 
was  a  great  man,  and  the  Mexican  people  honor  his  name  as  we 


19 


OLD   CUSTOM    HOUSE. 


do  that  of  Washington.  In  1888  a  statute  was  erected  here  to 
his  memory,  and  the  name  of  Paso  del  Norte  was  changed  to 
Juarez  in  his  honor.  As  I  have  said,  the  idea  of  progress  has 
arrived  and  is  at  work.  See  that  fine  new  custom  house, — 
you  should  have  seen  the  old  one  !  and  you  see  improvements 
going  on  everywhere  ;  slowly,  perhaps,  but  steadily  Juarez  is 
growing  more  like  its  neighbor  over  the  river." 


NEW   CUSTOM    HOUSE. 


20 


"Really,"  said  the  Captain,  "there  is  something  pleasing  in 
the  '  comfortable  look '  of  the  place.  These  adobe  houses,  low 
and  flat  roofed,  cannot  be  very  attractive  to  the  eye,  but  an 
inspection  of  them  shows  that  they  are  the  best  for  such  a 
climate,  and  that  they  can  be  made  very  charming  within." 

"  Yes,  that  is  true  ;  all  through  Mexico,  in  every  house,  how- 
ever poor  or  however  forbidding  it  may  look  outside,  you  will 
find  signs  of  a  love  for  the  beautiful.  Poverty  alone  prevents 
the  people,  as  a  whole,  from  having  the  prettiest  homes  imagi- 
nable.    Mexicans  are  fond  of  music  and  iiowers." 

The  party  went  across  the  little  plaza  into  the  famous  old 
church  of  Guadalupe. 

"  Here,  boys,"  said  the  Major,  "  you  see  one  of  the  great  in- 
stitutions of  Mexico,  the  plaza.  This  is  only  a  little  one,  and 
not  very  attractive  ;  but  in  the  larger  towns  great  care  is  taken 
to  provide  a  pretty  place  of  recreation  for  the  people.  The 
plaza  is  the  property  of  everybody ;  it  is  about  the  only  thing  in 
a  Mexican  town  that  is  not  w^illed  in.  As  you  see  here,  the 
parish  church  and  the  government  buildings  in  every  town  are 
found  on  the  plaza.  This  church  building,  made  of  adobe,  is 
notable  principally  for  its  age.  A  mission  was  founded  here  in 
1662,  and  has  been  maintained  ever  since.  The  house  has  very 
few  ornaments,  and  gives  evidence  of  the  poverty  of  the  parish. 
Some  fine  carving  can  be  seen  on  the  great  beams  which  hold 
up  the  heavy  roof,  but  the  altar  and  the  pulpit  are  severely 
simple.  Well,  boys,  this  is  enough  of  the  seventeenth  century, 
let  us  get  into  the  glorious  nineteenth,  that  suits  me  better." 

A  short  walk  brought  them  to  the  station  of  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Railway.  It  is  a  handsome  structure  of  a  single  story,  and 
of  cool,  gray  color,  built,  after  the  Mexican  style,  around  an  open 
court  or  palio.  Plats  of  grass,  palm  trees,  plants,  and  flowers 
give  the  patio  the  appearance  of  a  park,  and  abundance  of  water 
keeps  it  always  fresh  and  cool.  The  north  end  of  the  building 
is  used  by  the  officials  of  the  division,  and  the  south  end  is 


devoted  to  waiting-rooms,  restaurant,  express  and  baggage 
rooms.  Entrance  to  all  the  offices  is  made  from  the  patio. 
Happy  is  he  who  hath  his  place  of  business  looking  out  upon 
such  a  refreshing  scene. 

"Isn't  this  fine?"  exclaimed  the  Captain.  "Iiis  like  an  oasis 
in  a  desert.  How  delightful  a  contrast  to  what  we  have  just 
seen  !     This  is  a  better  plaza  than  that  in  front  of  the  church." 

"  I  should  say  so,"  said  the  Corporal ;  "  I'd  like  to  be  division 
superintendent  myself,  and  have  my  office  here." 


li^iJMlMlU^   "^  V- 


II II rr I  I  i 


•^- '^Jj-if  2aSk!-':--ii: 


"  I  don't  know  of  anything  finer  than  this,  for  its  purpose,  in 
either  the  United  States  or  Mexico,"  said  the  Major.  "  It 
seems  just  perfect,  but  then,  it's  only  a  sample  of  the  style  of 
the  company.  'Everything  mi/s/he  A  i,'  is  its  motto.  As  fast 
as  possible,  stations,  restaurants,  shops,  and  houses  belonging  to 
the  company  are  being  brought  to  the  high  standard  of  which 
this  is  a  completed  specimen.  This  is  only  one  of  several  large 
buildings  of  the  company  here.  Over  there  you  see  the  great 
freight-houses.  See  what  extensive  yards,  and  what  a  conven- 
tion of  cars  ;  there  must  be  a  thousand  here  at  times." 

"Well,"  said  the  Captain,  "this  is  the  nineteenth  century, 
sure  enough.     Here  is  the  sign  of  the  power  that  can  transform 


Mexico   by  teaching   her  her  own  power  and  assisting  her  to 
develop  her  great  resources." 

"  I  am  proud  of  the  enterprise  of  our  own  country,"  said 
the  Major ;  "  but  for  that,  Mexico  might  have  had  to  wait  a 
century  longer  before  she  could  shake  off  her  lethargy,  but 
now  the  United  States  has  shown  her  what  to  do  and  how  to 
do  it." 

"Good  for  the  United  States,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 
"  Let's  go  back  to  that  best  of  countries." 

"Yes,  we  must  go  at  once,"  said  the  Major,  "  for  we  have  to 
attend  to  some  matters  in  El  Paso.  There's  the  matter  of 
money,  for  one  thing." 

"And  there's  the  matter  of  dinner,  for  another,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"  Dinner  and  dinero  both  important,"  added  the  Corporal,  as 
they  boarded  the  bobtail  car  for  the  United  States. 

"  Let's  attend  to  the  dinero  first,  the  bank  may  be  closed 
before  we  finish  dinner,"  said  the  Captain. 

"All  right,"  replied  the  Major,  "and  here  comes  Uncle  Sam's 
collector  of  customs,  but  the  Treasury  Department  won't  get 
anything  out  of  us  this  time." 

"Any  goods?"  asked  the  collector. 

"  Nothing,  sir,"  answered  the  Major. 

"Passed  again,"  he  added,  as  the  collector  left  the  car;  "but 
that  fellow  took  fifty  cents  from  me  pretty  quickly  the  last  time 
I  met  him.  I  had  a  parcel  in  my  hand  containing  a  dozen 
photographs,  which  I  had  bought  in  that  curio  store.  He 
scented  the  game  and  brought  it  down. 

"'What  did  they  cost?'  he  asked. 

"  'Two  dollars,'  I  answered. 

"'Fifty  cents  duty,'  he  remarked,  and  the  car  stopped  while 
he  waited  for  me  to  settle. 

"'I  thmk  I'll  return  them,  for  the  seller  did  not  tell  me  they 
were  dutiable.' 


23 


" '  All  right,  you  can  do  that,  but  you  must  pay  the  duty 
fiist.' 

" '  Have  I  crossed  the  line  ? '  I  asked. 

"'You  have  crossed  the  Rubicon,'  said  the  scholarly  deputy 
collector  of  the  United  States  customs,  at  El  Paso,  Texas. 


PATIO    OV    STATION. 

"  I  paid,  and  as  I  rode,  the  question  of  the  ages,  '  Why  did 
Caesar  pause  at  the  Rubicon  ? '  seemed  to  have  been  solved  at 
last.  There  must  have  been  a  customs  collector  there,  who 
held  him  up  for  tribute.  '  Great  Caesar's  ghost  ! '  said  I  (to 
myself  as  I  supposed).  The  driver  must  have  understood 
me,  for  he  turned  and  said,  'Si,  Seilor.' " 

"  If  the  Rubicon  wasn't  more  of  a  river  than  this  Rio  Grande," 
said  the  Corporal,  "  Caesar  probably  paused  on  account  of  sur- 
prise at  seeing  no  water.  A  Roman  candle  could  wade  this  river 
now,  and  not  wet  its  fuse,  and  a  Roman  soldier  wouldn't  wet  his 
ankles." 


24 


"  My  boy,  I've  told  you  that  the  river  is  taking  a  rest  just 
now,  and  will  do  better  the  next  time  you  come  to  see  it." 

Arriving  at  the  bank,  exchange  of  funds  was  soon  made,  and 
it  was  greatly  in  favor  of  American  money. 

"  That's  good,"  said  the  Captain,  "  that  will  make  travel  in 
Mexico  cheap  enough." 

"  Yes,  I  believe  that  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  where  the 
traveller  can  get  so  much  of  so  good  quality  for  his  money  as  in 
Mexico.  Why,  see  how  many  more  Mexican  dollars  we  have 
than  we  had  American  dollars  to  trade  ! " 

"Good,  that'll  make  opals  cheap  too,  won't  it?"  exclaimed 
the  Corporal.     "Si,  Senor." 

For  the  convenience  of  passengers  the  Mexican  Central  train 
is  backed  over  to  the  Santa  F^  station  in  El  Paso  an  hour  be- 
fore the  time  of  departure  for  Mexico.  Ample  time  for  the 
examination  of  baggage  and  for  supper  is  allowed  in  Juarez. 
Examination  by  the  Mexican  officials  is  made  so  politely  that 
the  passenger  feels  like  thanking  them  for  their  attentions. 
He  is  equally  happy  to  see  them  paste  on  his  trunk  the  pretty 
little  label  marked,  "  Reconocido  por  la  Aduana  de  Ciudad 
Juarez,"  and  to  see  the  baggageman  put  it  into  his  car.  A  visit 
to  the  "  despacho  de  boletos  "  (that  is  the  new  name  for  ticket 
office)  soon  fixes  one  for  the  journey  so  far  as  passage  and 
Pullman  affairs  are  concerned.  And  then  supper,  your  first 
meal  in  Mexico  !  Visions  of  chik  con  came  and  tortillas  flit 
through  the  mind  only  to  vanish  as  you  enter  the  restaurant  on 
the  south  side  of  that  pretty  patio,  already  referred  to.  Behold 
no  Mexican  man,  woman,  or  f/uuhacho,  but  a  manager  and 
waiters  from  the  Flowery  Kingdom,  and  a  bill  of  fare  that  equals 
the  one  you  saw  in  the  Union  depot  at  Kansas  City, 

"That  was  a  good  supper,"  said  the  Captain,  as  the  party  came 
out,  "  good  enough  for  anybody." 

"  Now  let  us  go  out  and  look  over  the  train.  I  don't  think 
you  ever  have  seen  one  just  like  it." 

25 


"  How  does  it  differ  from  our  trains?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  They  have  first,  second,  and  third  class  cars  in  Mexico.  The 
Pullman  makes  another,  we  might  say  super  first  class,  just  as  it 
is  in  England.  The  government,  when  it  arranged  with  the 
builders  of  the  roads,  made  provision  for  the  poor  of  the  country. 
Travel  in  second  and  third  class  cars  is  very  cheap." 

"Well,  it  ought  to  be,"  said  the  Corporal.  "I  should  want  to 
be  paid  for  riding  in  this  third-class  car.     Seats  only  lengthwise, 


'"fe 


£C^Zt^''iS^^^SSSfBSS-?^' 


AT    HOME    WEDNESnAYS. 


one  on  each  side,  and  two,  back  to  back,  down  the  middle  of  the 
car,  mere  benches  !  " 

"True,"  replied  the  Major,  "but  even  they  must  be  easier 
to  ride  on  than  the  poor  burro,  especially  if  one  must  travel 
some  hundreds  of  miles.  You  ought  to  have  a  ride  in  a 
Mexican  diiigencia,  say  for  twelve  or  twenty-four  hours.  You'd 
think  this  a  palace  in  comparison  with  that." 

"  The  second  class  looks  comfortable  enough,"  said  the 
Captain ;  "  and  the  first-class  coach  is  first  class,  and  a  little 
more  too,  having  chairs  for  the  comfort  of  passengers." 


26 


"  Vamonos .'   did  you  hear  that,  Corporal?" 

"  What  does  that  mean?" 

"That  means  practically  'all  aboard.' " 

"And  so  we  are  really  off!  "  exclaimed  the  Captain. 

'  My  native  land,  adieu,  adieu, 
I  cannot  always  stay  with  you,  stay  with  you.'" 

"It  will  be  dark  pretty  soon,"  said  the  Corporal,  as  the  train 
started,  "and  we  can't  see  the  country  between  here  and 
Chihuahua  at  all.     That  is  too  bad." 

"  Not  so  bad  as  it  might  be,  but  it  would  be  a  fine  thing 
if  we  could  go,  as  some  trains  in  our  country  go,  '  through 
by  daylight.'  However,  I'll  tell  you  about  the  stations,  and 
the  interesting  features  of  those  parts  of  the  line  which  we 
pass  over  in  the  night ;  you'd  better  study  your  folder  and 
map,  so  that  you  will  not  have  to  remark,  *  Mr.  Speaker,  where 
was  I  at?'  " 

Returning  from  a  visit  to  a  neighbor,  the  Major  inquired, 
"  What  does  the  folder  tell  you,  ye  pilgrims  from  the  Rio 
Grande?" 

"  It  tells  us  that  it  is  225  miles  to  Chihuahua,  and  that  we  get 
breakfast  there." 

"That  folder  is  a  Truthful  James,  but  it  doesn't  tell  all  the 
truth.  It  says  nothing  of  what  is  between  Juarez  and  Chihua- 
hua, except  that  'it  is  a  fine  stock-raising  country,'  "  replied 
the  Captain. 

"  Well,  a  folder  would  have  to  be  a  book,  and  a  large  one  too, 
if  it  were  required  to  tell  much  about  the  country  between  sta- 
tions on  this  long  line  of  nearly  two  thousand  miles.  It  can 
only  speak  of  sections  ;  and  this  section  is  chiefly  a  stock-raising 
region.  But  I  can  add  a  little  to  that  morsel  of  information,  I 
think. 

"  In  general,  between  here  and  Chihuahua  the  country  is  much 
like  that  through  which  we  passed  the  last  day  of  our  journey  to 

27 


El  Paso  ;  it  is  about  'the  same  thing  continued '  for  four  hundred 
miles  from  the  border.  No  land  is  richer  than  this  ill-looking 
plain,  but  it  needs  water  to  bring  out  its  capacity.  Where  water 
is,  there  you  will  find  growing  fields  of  corn,  flax,  beans,  wheat, 
and  barley.  Grass  is  abundant,  and  large  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses  are  raised  for  the  market. 

"  Now,  more  in  detail.  The  first  station  out  is  Samalayuca, 
which  calls  for  no  comment.  At  San  Jos^,  and  at  the  next 
station,  Ojo  Caliente,  there  is  little  to  attract  attention.  We 
begin  to  climb  a  hill,  on  the  side  of  which  is  the  station  Monte- 
zuma, and  on  its  summit  is  Gallego,  the  highest  point  between 
Juarez    and    Chihuahua.     A   curious-looking   mountain,   named 

Montezuma's  Chair,  is 
in  sight  for  hours,  but 
we  recede  from  it  as 
we  go  down  the  hill  on 
the  other  side  to  La- 
y  gun  a.  There  is  an 
M  extensive  view  from 
(iallego,  where  we  are 
seventeen  hundred  feet 
above  the  Rio  Grande 
"  valley  and  fifty-four 
hundred  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  country 
shows  more  signs  of 
fertility  than  appear 
farther  north.  Not  far  away  is  a  hacienda  in  a  beautiful  grove 
under  the  hills.  The  sight  of  living  green  is  evidence  of  water, 
and  the  railroad  supplies  its  reservoirs  from  a  spring  in  the  hill. 
Here  we  begin  to  see  some  of  the  great  herds  for  which  the 
state  of  Chihuahua  is  noted.  Could  the  great  plain  about  here 
be  in  some  way  irrigated,  this  sterile-looking  region  would 
blossom  like  a  garden.     The  soil  is  deep  and  very  fertile,  and, 


TIIKKK    I.riTLK    BROTHERS. 


28 


like  most  of  the  land  of  Mexico,  would  easily  produce  two  and 
even  three  crops  a  year.  We  now  descend  to  a  great  plain, 
which  it  is  a  delight  to  look  upon.  The  name  of  the  station, 
Laguna,  indicates  that  there  is  a  lake  somewhere  near ;  and  sure 
enough  there  is  the  Lake  of  Evergreen  Oaks  (Laguna  de  En- 
cinillas),  a  body  of  water  which  is  sometimes,  but  not  always, 
fifteen  miles  long  and  three  miles  wide.  This  is  a  paradise 
for  birds  and  for  cattle.  Of  course,  such  a  bonanza  as  a 
lake  in  a  country  like  this  would  be  appreciated  and  appro- 
priated. 

"  Looking  across  the  lake,  you  see  great  white  walls  shining 
out  from  among  the  trees.  They  remind  one  of  a  fortification, 
but  they  are  the  walls  of  one  of  the  most  famous  haciendas  of 
Mexico.  That  is  the  place  of  business,  as  '  hacienda'  means,  the 
headquarters  of  the  great  estate  belonging  to  Don  Enrique 
M tiller,  of  Chihuahua,  and  Don  Luis  Terrasas,  ex-governor  of 
the  state.  They  are  said  to  have  more  than  seventy- five 
thousand  head  of  cattle  on  their  properties,  and  the  whole 
country,  for  more  than  eighty  miles  along  the  track,  belorjgs  to 
them." 

"  Dons  they  are,  to  be  sure,"  said  the  Captain,  "  but  if  one 
of  them  is  a  German,  he  would  be  a  baron,  at  home,  I  sup- 
pose." 

"  No  doubt,  but  he  is  a  Don  here.  By  the  way,  did  you 
know  that  the  last  Spanish  viceroy  of  Mexico  was  an  Irish- 
man? " 

"  Ridiculous  !  "  exclaimed  the  Captain. 

"  Well,  perhaps  it  is,  but  his  name,  as  it  appears  in  the  list  of 
viceroys,  is  Juan  O'Donoju.  If  that  isn't  John  O'Donohue,  then 
I  don't  know  Spanish,  Irish,  or  English." 

"Good  for  old  Don  O'Donohue,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal 
"If  there  were  any  chance  for  an  office  now  in  Mexico,  more 
O'Donohues  might  come  here,  but  the  United  States  seems  to 
be  good  enough  for  them." 

29 


Well,  on  we  go,  across  this  great  cattle  country ;  gradually 
descending  till  we  come  to  Sauz  (willow),  where  more  water  is 
seen  and  more  trees  too  ;  thence  on  past  Sacramento,  and  in 
an  hour  we  are  at  Chihuahua.  This  is  the  story  of  the  country 
which  we  pass  over  during  our  first  night  in  Mexico. 


30 


CHIHUAHUA. 


III. 


"  I'll  not  march  through  Coventry  with  them,  that's  flat." 

A'iitg  Ilenry  IV. 


F      I     ^HERE  it  is,"    exclaimed  the  Captain  in  the 
V^       I  morning,  "  the  great  church  of  Chihuahua, 

y      I  of  which  I  have  seen  so  many  pictures,  and 

w      I  it  is  a  picture  itself." 

I  Yes,  it  is  a  beauty ;  and  what  a  setting 

the   picture   has  !     In   the   background  the 

purple   hills ;    to   right  and   left,   the   dark, 

gray,    flat-roofed    houses    spread    out  on   a 

brown  plain  ;  in  the  foreground,  the  green 

foliage  of  the  plaza ;  these,  with  the  great 

dome   and    the    two    high,   graceful    towers 

rising  against  the  sky,  combine  to  make  a 

picture    which,    once    seen,    can    never    be 

forgotten.      Novelty  may  add  to  its  charm, 

but  its  real  beauty  is  what  makes  so  lasting  an  impression  ;    for 

after  you  have  seen  all  the  great  landscape  views  of  this  land  of 

beauties,  you  remember  this  as  one  of  the  finest  of  them  all. 

As  the  city  is  built  upon  an  elevated  plain,  it  can  be  seen  a 
long  time  before  the  station  is  reached  ;  and  as  the  train  does 


31 


not  come  within  a  mile  of  the  town,  the  passenger  has  a  long 
look  at  this  charming  picture,  which  grows  in  beauty  as  the 
distance  lessens. 

The  train  stops  at  the  north  side  of  the  little  river  Chubiscar 
for  breakfast  and  for  change  of  engines.  Here  there  is  a  large 
colony  of  operatives  of  the  company.  It  is  really  a  village  of 
great  importance,  both  to  the  company  and  to  its  passengers. 
The  chief  interest  of  the  traveller  is  centred  in  the  restaurant,  a 
large  and  inviting  building  with  broad  veranda,  where  a  duplicate 
of  the  meal  at  Juarez  is  offered.  It  is  a  good  breakfast  on  the 
way  south,  and  a  good  supper  on  the  way  north,  that  the  travel- 
ler finds  ready  here  on  arrival. 

At  this  point  are  great  machine  shops  and  a  round-house  of 
the  company,  with  locomotives,  cars,  and  material  for  repair  of 
equipment,  which  indicate  that  this  is  one  of  the  busiest  points 
on  the  line  in  the  operating  department.  The  hospital  for 
employes  is  a  first-class  establishment.  Near  here  also  is  a  flour- 
ishing iron  works,  a  Mexican  enterprise,  which  is  doing  a  great 
business.  Native  as  well  as  imported  iron  is  manufactured,  and 
the  works  supply  the  Mexican  Central  road  with  a  large  amount 
of  material. 

The  passenger  station  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river ;  from 
there  connection  is  made  with  the  city  by  street  car  or  carriage 
ride  of  a  mile  along  the  river.  At  .the  station  the  boys  saw  for 
the  first  time  a  considerable  group  of  genuine  unqualified  Mex- 
icans. 

"Good  gracious  !  who  are  all  these  people?"  asked  the  Cor- 
poral, as  he  stepped  out  of  the  car ;  "  are  they  all  going  to  take 
the  train?" 

"  Well,  hardly,  my  boy,  perhaps  a  dozen  of  them  are  going. 
The  rest  have  come  to  see  them  off  and  to  see  us  arrive.  These 
are  '  the  reception  committee.'  A  railroad  in  Mexico  couldn't 
be  run  without  them,  so  they  seem  to  think.  They  constitute 
the  typical  crowd    that   you  will  see    at    every  stopping  place 


32 


between  here  and  the  capital.  Study  them  a  little.  Notice 
that  all  the  men  are  dressed  in  white  coarse  cotton,  wear  the 
broadbrim  sugar-loaf 
sombrero  of  straw,  and 
wrap  themselves,  even 
in  summer,  in  a  shawl 
(caWed  a  za rape).  No- 
tice that  the  women 
are  dressed  in  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow, 
and  are  partly  wrapped 
up  in  a  dark  colored 
cotton  scarf  or  shawl 
(called  a  re  bo  so). 
From  the  border  to 
the  coast,  the  costume 
of  the  natives  is  the 
same.      Notice    also 

that  nearly  all  of  them,  women  as  well  as  men,  are  barefoot  or 
have  only  sandals  on  their  feet." 

"  Not  pretty  are  they?"  said  the  Captain. 

"  No,  but  picturesque,  eh?  " 

"To  an  artist  perhaps,  but  not  to  me." 

"Oh,  that  is  rank  heresy,  Captain." 

Comfortable  quarters  were  found  at  the  hotel,  and  the 
day  was  spent  looking  about  this  very  enterprising  Mexican 
town. 

"  This  is  something  like  a  city,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 
"  What  handsome  stone  buildings  !  " 

"Yes,  no  town  in  the  United  States  of  twice  the  population 
can  show  so  many  fine  buildings." 

"  None  have  any  such  church  as  this,"  said  the  Captain,  as  he 
pointed  to  the  so-called  cathedral  which  they  had  admired  from 
a  distance  in  the  morning. 


RECEPriON    COMMITTEE. 


zz 


"  No,  no  city  in  our  country  has  a  silver  mine  to  put 
under  tribute.  This  church  of  San  Francisco  was  built,  they 
say,  from  a  tax  on  the  product  of  the  famous  Santa  Eulalia  mine. 
Corporal,  figure  up  how  much  that  mine  produced  if  the  tax  of 
twenty-five  cents  a  pound  on  its  silver  bullion  gave  the  good 
fathers  $800,000  for  the  building  of  their  church.  Silver  was 
worth  more  then  than  now,  but  reckon  on  a  dollar  an  ounce  and 
sixteen  ounces  to  the  pound." 

"  Some  other  time,  Major.  I  am  not  figuring  now,  but  look- 
ing at  the  figures  on  the  church." 

"Any  time  will  do,  my  boy,  but  don't  forget  how  much  these 
fine  figures  of  the  twelve  apostles  and  of  the  good  San  Francisco 
owe  to  their  rich  sister,  Santa  Eulalia.  These  are  as  fine  speci- 
mens of  stone  carving  as  you  will  see  in  many  a  day.  They  are 
not  foreign,  but  the  work  of  native  artists." 

"Is  this  a  very  old  church.  Major?" 

"A  little  more  than  a  hundred  years  old.  You  can  remember 
its  age,  perhaps,  by  recalling  the  fact  that  it  was  completed  the 
same  year  that  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States  was 
adopted,  in  1789." 

Next,  the  mint  was  visited.  The  building  was  once  the 
Hospital  Real.  Historically  it  is  an  interesting  place,  for  here 
Hidalgo  and  his  associates,  leaders  in  the  war  for  independence, 
were  imprisoned,  and  from  here  taken  to  the  place  of  execu- 
tion, which  is  now  marked  by  a  monument." 

"Who  was  Hidalgo?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"He  was  a  priest,  and  a  good  one.  He  was  likewise  a  soldier, 
at  least  in  his  later  career.  Here  he  died,  but  we  will  hear 
the  story  of  his  life  later  on,  when  we  reach  the  spot  where  he 
did  the  work  which  made  his  name  immortal." 

"  What  a  fine  idea  this  is  of  having  long  rows  of  colonnades  ; 
they  give  such  a  pretty  appearance  to  the  street,  and  furnish 
such  refreshing  shade  !  And  what  pretty  colors  the  houses 
have  !  " 


34 


"  Yes,  they  call  the  colonnades  portales;  they  are  a  character- 
istic feature  of  Mexican  cities.  And  then  the  stone  benches, 
with  their  high  backs,  here  and  there  along  the  highway  and 
through  the  parks  !  Could  anything  be  more  considerate  on 
the  part  of  the  city  fathers 
or  more  acceptable  to  the 
people?" 

The  great  aqueduct  which 
spans  the  valley  on  stone 
arches  excites  the  admira- 
tion of  all  visitors.  It 
serves  its  purpose  to-day  as 
it  has  served  it  for  more 
than  two  hundred  years, 
and  is  in  perfect  condition. 
A  walk  through  the  Ala- 
meda, or  park  of  sycamores, 
brings  the  visitor  to  the  San- 
tuario  or  Chapel  of  Guada- 
lupe, a  beautiful  church  in 
which  is  a  statue  of  Loyola  ; 
and  in  the  suburbs  beyond 
are  seen  many  of  the  finest    ' 

houses  and  gardens  in  the  vicinity.  1  he  Alameda,  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  city,  is  kept  in  better  shape  than  the  other,  and 
people  of  a  better  class  resort  to  it  to  enjoy  the  shade  of  its 
splendid  trees,  or  pass  through  it  on  their  way  to  the  new  baths. 

"Well,  where  is  the  wonderful  Chihuahua  dog?"  in(|uired  the 
Corporal;  "I  haven't  seen  one  since  I've  been  here." 

"Go  ask  the  winds  or  the  women,  my  boy.     I  can't  tell  you. 
For  my  part,  I  never  want  to  see  one  again,  do  you?  " 

"No,  but  I'd  like  to  know  how  they  raise  them." 

"A  good  many  are  raised,  I  think,  as  the  darky  raises  chickens, 
by  hand  ;  but  the  dog  business  is  a  little   dull   now,  they  say  : 


35 


plenty  of  orders,  but  not  goods  enough.  But  Chihuahua  does 
a  large  business  in  other  kinds  of  goods.  It  is  the  great  centre 
of  trade  with  the  rich  mining  districts  in  the  mountains,  and 
as  old  abandoned  mines  are  reopened  or  new  ones  discovered, 
the  volume  of  trade  must  increase.  This  is  a  very  large 
state,  and  as  we  go  south  to-morrow  I  will  give  you  some 
further  facts  about  it.  Let's  go  to  the  hotel  now  and  write 
home  to  our  friends." 

The  reception  committee  was  at  the  station  again  in  the 
morning,  apparently  as  eager  to  see  our  party  leave  as  they  had 
been  anxious  to  see  them  arrive. 

"  Don't  they  look  more  picturesque  than  they  did  yesterday, 
Captain?" 

"Well,  a  little.  I  can  acquire  a  liking  for  them  if  I  haven't 
it  now.  I  like  them  in  a  way  already,  they  seem  so  intent  and 
so  content.     How  like  children  !  " 

"  That's  it  exactly ;  the  whole  Mexican  people  of  the  lower 
class  are  simply  children.  They  are  a  constant  study  to  visitors, 
and  they'll  be  a  constant  surprise  to  you. 

"This  morning,"  said  the  Major,  as  they  "fixed"  themselves 
for  the  journey,  "  we  ride  through  some  of  the  great  estates  of 
Mexico,  called  haciendas.  You  saw  some  small  farms  on  the 
way  here,  and  I  told  you  of  a  few  extensive  establishments  last 
night ;  to-day  you  will  see  some  for  yourselves.  Yonder  is  the 
smelting  works  of  the  famous  Santa  Eulalia  mine,  and  not  far 
away  is  a  great  hacienda,  comprising  more  than  60,000  acres  of 
fine  land,  belonging  to  the  gentleman  of  whom  I  spoke  ;  Mr. 
Henry  Miller,  we  would  call  him  in  English.  On  that  estate  is 
an  adobe  palace  200  feet  long  and  125  feet  wide.  The  gates 
and  pillars  are  of  cut  stone  finely  carved  by  natives.  It  has 
beautiful  towers  at  the  angles  and  a  patio  within  that  is  as  large 
as  the  plaza  of  some  towns,  and  much  more  attractive.  A 
yearly  crop  of  75,000  bushels  of  wheat  and  of  25,000  bushels  of 
corn  is  pretty  good  business  for  a  single  farm,  isn't  it?     A  little 

36 


PARISH    CHURCH,    ClllULAHLA. 


Yep 


farther  on  are  two  more  haciendas,  one  of  60,000    acres  and 
another  of  120,000  acres,  so  they  say." 


"  Major,  please  tell  us  exactly  what  a  hacienda  is  and  how 
carried  on,"  said  the  Corporal,  evidently  interested  in  the 
figures  just  mentioned. 

"  It  is  a  little  world  by  itself,  and  not  a  very  little  one  either. 
More  definitely,  the  term  'hacienda'  is  used  to  signify  a  great 
estate  made  up  of  numerous  parts,  as,  for  instance,  ranches, 
mills,  mines,  forests,  and  plantations.  The  headquarters  of  the 
estate  is  spoken  of  as  the  hacienda ;  you  will  see  some  of  the 
fort-like  buildings  as  we  go  along.  Here  is  the  residence  of 
the  owner  or  of  the  ad  minis  trador,  and,  near  by,  the  homes  of 
many  of  the  laborers.  Here  are  the  great  storehouses  for  grain, 
and  corrals  for  horses  and  cattle.  Here  also  are  the  church  and 
the  school,  and  the  hospital  for  the  families  who  live  and  labor 
on  the  estate.  The  store  which  supplies  the  families  is  here 
also,  and  often  factories  form  a  part  of  the  hacienda.  The 
whole  establishment  is  a  relic  of  the  feudal  system,  under  which 
the  weak  and  the  poor  engaged  to  serve  the  strong  and  rich, 
and  these,  in  turn,  agreed  to  exercise  a  paternal  and  protective 
authority  over  their  servants.  The  system  belongs  to  the  fif- 
teenth century,  but  is  out  of  place  now.  It  is  not  consistent 
with  progress  or  liberty." 

37 

16221)7 


"Does  it  prevail  in  Mexico?" 

"Yes,  I  may  say  it  does  prevail,  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
land  in  this  country  that  is  fit  for,  or  can  be  made  fit  for,  culti- 
vation or  for  use  in  any  way,  is  owned  in  great  tracts  by  a  few 
families  or  individuals." 

"I  can  see,  easily  enough,"  said  the  Captain,  "what  the  effect 
of  that  must  be." 

"  Think  of  one  estate  of  a  million  and  a  half  acres  !  another 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  and  so  on.  The  ground 
for  hope  of  stability  in  the  United  States  is  the  fact  that,  while 
there  are  some  large  estates,  there  are  more  than  four  million 
small  farms  owned  and  worked  by  the  families  that  live  on  them. 
Mexico  must  make  it  at  least  possible  for  one  million  of  its 
people  to  own  'forty  acres  and  a  cow.'  " 

"And  a  mule." 

"Yes,  and  a  mule,  or,  anyhow,  a  burro." 

"The  hacienda  business  is,  practically,  slavery,  and  there  is 
no  progress  in  it.  Here  we  are  at  Horcasitas,  a  station 
named  for  the  gentleman  who  owns  an  estate  through  which 
this  road  runs  for  more  than  twenty-five  miles.  Yonder  is 
another  hacienda  of  about  forty  thousand  acres,  a  little  one, 
owned  by  a  banking  firm." 

"What  river  is  this.  Major?" 

"  This  is  the  San  Pedro,  and  it  flows  into  the  Conchos,  a  little 
east  of  us ;  we  cross  a  handsome  bridge  here.  The  next 
station  is  also  named  for  a  great  hacienda  of  150,000  acres. 
Las  Delicias.  About  10,000  acres  are  under  the  plow  on  this 
estate." 

"  It  doesn't  look  like  very  good  land,  Major.  The  cactus 
seems  to  be  the  chief  product." 

"That  is  the  native  weed.  Of  course,  the  land  will  grow 
cactus  if  you  don't  give  it  something  else  to  do.  Give  any  of 
this  soil  water  and  seed  and  a  little  labor,  and  the  result  will  as- 
tonish you." 

38 


Here  we  are  in  sight  of  the  Conchos  River.  We  run  up 
that  stream  now  for  thirty  miles.  Notice  along  here,  the  great 
canals   which   have   been   made    to   convey   the  water  to  and 

|m  through   the    fields.      All 

^  this  region  is  fertile  and 

\  usually  very    productive. 

^  It  has  been  very  dry  for 

two    years    now    through 

Northern     Mexico,     and 

everything    has    suffered, 

but  you  see  that  even  now  the  valley  isn't  without  crops.     The 

region  raises  barley,  corn,  and  wheat,  and  also  cotton  to  some 

extent. 

And  here  is  Santa  Rosalia.  Many  an  unfortunate  has  blessed 
her  name  and  her  famous  springs.  This  is  a  place  worth 
stopping  at.  Its  little  plaza  is 
a  bit  of  paradise.  And  you 
see  this  town  has  the  luxury 
of  two  rivers ;  here  the  Flori- 
do  joins  the  Conchos,  which 
we  crossed  a  few  minutes  since, 
and  we  shall  cross  the  Florido 
just  below  the  dinner  station, 
Jimenez. 

The  village  of  Santa  Rosalia 
is  not  so  pretty  as  its  name, 
or  so  fragrant  as  its  springs. 
These  smell  like  sulphur;  but 
they  are  four  miles  away,  and 
don't  smell  to  Santa  Rosalia. 

There     are     six    of     these 
springs    which    boil    up    from 
under  a  yellowish  sulphur-colored  hill,  and  the  waters  are  very 
hot.     The   waters   are    led    through    ditches    into    adobe    bath- 


RANCHERO. 


39 


houses,  where  the  victim  or  the  visitor  for  pleasure  can  parboil 
himself  for  health  or  for  fun.  Accommodations  are  not  yet 
suitable  for  invalids,  but  if  half  that  is  told  of  the  curative 
power  of  these  waters  is  true,  it  can't  be  long  before  Santa 
Rosalia  will  be  visited  by  thousands  of  sufferers  from  rheu- 
matism and  the  gout.  Let  the  enterprising  hotel  man  take 
notice. 

And  now  our  course  is,  for  about  fifty  miles,  up  the  Rio 
Florido.  The  valley  of  this  stream  is  extremely  fertile ;  it  re- 
minds one,  in  the  extent  of  its  cultivation,  of  the  valley  of  the 
Lerma  in  Jalisco. 

"  Do  see  that  team,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal.  "  What  is  the 
man  doing?  " 

"Plowing.  Primitive,  isn't  it?  See  the  yoke,  only  a  beam 
tied  to  the  animals'  horns.  And  the  plow  !  simply  a  V-shaped 
piece  of  wood  shod  with  iron.  Sometimes  the  oxen  are  driven 
'by  fours.'  " 

"  Why  don't  they  get  American  plows  and  do  their  work 
right?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"  Qiiien  sabe  !  Our  plows  have  been  tried  here,  but  the  Mexi- 
cans at  once  perpetrated  an  *  improvement '  on  them.  They  cut 
off  one  of  the  handles  !  Costumbre  del  pais,  —  it  is  the  way  of 
the  country.  But  modern  implements  are  fast  taking  the  place 
of  the  old." 

Well,  here  we  are  at  Jimenez.  Here  we  meet  the  up  train 
and  we  get  dinner.  When  we  come  back,  we  11  see  a  splendid 
new  dining-room,  but  just  now  "  dinner  is  ready  in  the  dining- 
car"  on  a  side-track.  Plenty  of  everything  and  good  service. 
Jimenez  is  a  point  of  great  importance.  It  is  a  city  of  9,000 
population,  in  a  rich  agricultural  district.  Fifty  miles  west  is  the 
great  silver  country  of  which  Parral  is  the  centre.  A  daily  stage- 
line  connects  this  station  with  Parral,  and  parties  from  the  coun- 
try west,  even  from  the  Pacific  coast,  come  to  Jimenez  to  take 
the  train. 


40 


"Jimminy  !  what  a  name.  How  did  the  company  ever  come 
across  such  a  name  as  they  gave  this  station?"  asked  the 
Corporal, 

"  That  is  a  good  name.  Call  it  Hemanez,  if  you  please. 
It  sounds  better  than  it  looks.  It  is  the  name  of  one  of 
Hidalgo's  associates,  who  was  executed  at  Chihuahua.  Walk 
down  the  track  a  little  way,  and  you  can  see  a  great  natural 
curiosity,  an  aerolite.     This    is   only  a  piece  of  the    mysterious 


visitor  from  another  sphere,  but  it  weighs  about  twenty  tons  ! 
The  other  part  of  it,  and  the  much  greater  part,  is  somewhere 
in  the  region  west  of  us." 

"What  is  it,  anyhow?"  asked  the  Corporal,  as  he  proceeded 
to  examine  it. 

''Is  it  stone,  or  iron,  or  copper,  or  what?"  asked  the  Cap- 
tain. 

"  On  the  outside  it  looks  like  copper,  having  the  color  of  that 
metal ;  within  it  appears  to  be  pure  iron.  On  cutting  with  a 
cold  chisel  the  metal  looks  like  steel.  The  whole  piece  has  the 
appearance  of  the  segment  of  a  sphere.  Strike  the  edge,  and  it 
sounds  like  a  bell.  It  is  a  wonderful  thing;  where  it  came 
from  who  can  tell?" 


41 


"This  looks  as  if  it  had  been  fused  or  melted,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"  It  certainly  does,  but  alas  !  we  do  twt  know 

*  What  anvils  rang,  what  hammers  beat, 
In  what  a  forge  or  what  a  heat.' 

If  it  could  only  tell  its  story  ! 

"The  next  station  of  importance  is  Escalon.  A  new  and 
very  extensive  mining  district  has  been  opened  in  the  Sierra 
Mojada  in  the  state  of  Coahuila,  some  seventy-five  miles  north- 
east of  this  point.  There  are  veritable  '  mountains  of  ore ' 
there ;  some  of  it  is  worked  at  home,  and  thousands  of  tons 
are  annually  shipped  to  other  points,  some  to  San  Luis  Potosi 
and  some  to  the  States.  Escalon  is  one  of  the  youngest, 
but  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  heaviest  stations  on  the 
line.  The  Mexican  Northern  road  connects  here  with  the 
Central." 

"What  state  are  we  in?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"Still  in  Chihuahua  !  We  are  420  miles  from  Juarez,  and  still 
in  Chihuahua." 

"  Great  state,  isn't  it !     How  large  is  it?  " 

"  About  90,000  square  miles,  an  area  larger  than  that  of  all 
New  England,  about  as  large  as  all  that  part  of  our  country  east 
of  the  Hudson ;  it  is  the  largest  of  the  states  of  Mexico ;  we 
leave  it  in  a  few  minutes  and  cross  into  Durango.  Nothing  of 
special  interest  is  observable  till  we  reach  Lerdo.  A  curious 
thing,  however,  is  the  sulphur  mountain  east  of  us  at  Conejos. 
You  can  see  the  stripes  of  color  which  the  mineral  has  given 
the  mountain. 

"  Another  curious  thing,  which  you  will  understand  by  refer- 
ence to  your  profile  map,  is  this  whole  region.  It  is  a  bolson, 
that  is,  a  pocket,  a  valley,  or  a  basin,  without  a  proper  natural 
outlet.  The  valley  of  Mexico  is  another,  and  there  are  several 
places   of  the    kind    in    the    country.     This   is   the  Bolson   de 


42 


Mapimi.  You  will  notice  that  we  shall  have  descended  eight 
hundred  feet  between  Jimenez  and  Lerdo.  This  great  depressed 
region  is  east  of  us,  and  is  known  in  general  as  the  Laguna 
country." 

"Laguna  means  lake,  does  it?" 

"Yes,  a  shallow  lake  or  pond,  or  swamp  only,  as  this  is  some- 
times. In  rainy  seasons  such  a  region  is  flooded,  but  in  dry 
seasons  water  remains  only  in  the  lowest  places,  so  these  la- 
gunas  vary  in  size.  Many  streams,  some  of  them  quite  large, 
like  the  Nazas,  which  we  shall  cross,  flow  into  this  bolson  and 
stop  there,  unless  there  are  underground  passages  for  their 
discharge." 

"  Is  it  a  fertile  section  of  country?  " 

"  Very  fertile.  It  is  the  great  cotton  country  of  Mexico. 
Forty  thousand  bales  of  cotton  are  shipped  over    the    Central 


every  year  from  Lerdo.  It  is  said  that  the  Mexican  cotton 
plants  continue  to  bear  profitable  crops  from  four  to  six  years 
without  replanting  and  without  fertilizers.  Practically,  here, 
cotton  is  a  perennial,  and  not  an  annual  plant ;  but  while  the 
product  is  larger,  it  is  not  of  so  fine  a  quality  as  that  grown  in 
the  States.  As  might  be  expected,  there  are  cotton  mills  and 
oil  mills  here." 

"I  suppose  the  business  will  increase?" 


43 


"Yes,  it  will,  without  doubt.  The  government  is  actively  at 
work  adjusting  the  matter  of  water  rights,  and  other  questions 
of  engineering,  about  which  the  people  of  the  states  of  Durango 
and  Coahuila  have  had  differences,  and  on  account  of  which  the  full 
development  of  their  section  has  been  greatly  retarded.  Mexico 
must  look  to  this  Laguna  country  for  its  supply  of  native  cotton ; 
there  will,  some  day,  be  a  very  much  larger  acreage  under  culti- 
vation. Lerdo  is  a  flourishing  city,  with  a  population  of  about 
10,000,  and  presents  an  attractive  appearance.  Looking  to  the 
future,  Lerdo  has  the  brightest  prospects  for  growth.  The 
elevation  of  the  city  is  almost  exactly  that  of  El  Paso,  and 
Lerdo,  on  account  of  its  superb  climate,  is  the  resort  of  many 
who  find  the  high  plateau  too  cold  for  them." 

A  ride  of  five  kilometres  brings  us  to  another  very  impor- 
tant station,  Torreon. 

This  is  a  meal  station.  Here  the  passenger  will  find  a 
plentiful  supply  of  good  quality.  The  inevitable  Chinese  man- 
ager looks  after  the  establishment,  and  is  extremely  attentive  to 
his  guests. 

At  Torreon  the  Mexican  International  road  crosses  the  Cen- 
tral. It  has  just  been  extended  (November,  1892)  to  the  city  of 
Durango,  and  now  another  great  state  and  greater  region  on  the 
west  is  put  in  quick  communication  with  the  world.  From  the 
mines  on  the  International,  great  quantities  of  coal  are  brought 
to  the  Central  for  distribution  in  the  interior  of  Mexico.  Who- 
ever goes  to  the  capital  via  the  Eagle  Pass  route  goes  over 
the  Central  from  Torreon,  more  than  seven  hundred  miles. 
Torreon  is  not  a  thing  of  beauty,  but  it  is  a  place  of  business. 
A  large  flour  mill,  the  shops  of  the  International  road,  and  the 
natural  requirements  of  such  a  junction-point  combine  to  make 
it  an  active,  thriving  town. 

An  hour  from  Torreon  brings  us  to  Picardias,  a  station  of  con- 
siderable importance,  from  which  connection  is  made  by  stage 
three  times  a  week  with  the  city  of  Durango. 


44 


''Think  of  a  ride  of  150  miles  in  a  Mexican  diligence,  Cap- 
tain, how  would  you  like  that?" 

"  I  can  think  of  much  worse  things  than  that,  Major.  I 
rather  think  I  should  like  one  trip  anyhow." 

"Well  let  us  wait  till  some  other  time.  I  suppose  we  can  find 
a  better  section  to  explore  than  this,  say,  down  in  Oaxaca." 

Now  that  the  railroad  reaches  Durango,  probably  the  occupa- 
tion of  Picardias  is  gone,  so  far  as  stage  line  is  concerned. 

And  now  we  come  to  Jimulco.  This  is  a  more  important 
station  than  it  appears  to  be.  Here  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
operating  department  for  one  of  the  divisions  of  the  line.  A 
commodious  station  house,  large  round-house,  machine  shops 
and  other  buildings  necessary  to  the  service  give  Jimulco  an  air 
of  great  activity.  Of  course,  there  must  be  quite  a  railroad 
colony  at  such  a  point. 

Night  shuts  out  the  view  now,  and  we  begin  our  ascent  from 
the  basin  in  which  we  have  been  running  for  the  last  150  miles. 
The  ascent  is  gradual,  however,  for  we  rise  only  about  2,800  feet 
in  the  next  200  miles.  The  country  on  all  sides  appears  to  be 
a  vast  plain  fringed  with  hills,  but  as  we  rise  the  view  widens, 
and  we  appreciate  the  fact  that  we  are  climbing,  climbing,  every 
minute  to  a  higher  level.  There  are  signs  of  fertility  all  about 
us.  A  great  part  of  the  section  is  under  cultivation.  One  of 
the  peculiar  features  of  this  inclined  plane  is  the  red  color  of 
the  soil,  reminding  one  of  the  brick-colored  clay  of  New  Jersey. 
Can  it  be  that  this  region  is  as  rich  as  that  garden  of  the  two 
great  cities  in  the  States,  that  "dumb-bell  suburb"  as  Dr.  Holmes 
calls  it,  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia?  Well,  hardly  as  rich  as 
that,  but  evidently  it  is  good  farming  land  (when  it  has  water). 
But  the  color  !  that  is  the  wonder  of  the  great  Yellowstone 
Park  no  more  than  of  this  region.  Mr.  Church  is  on  record 
as  saying  that  "Mexico  is  superior  to  Italy  in  landscape  effects." 
The  plain  which  we  are  here  leaving  behind,  as  seen  from  the 
summit   to   which   we    rise,  charms   beyond    expression    when 

45 


lighted  by  the  afternoon  sun.  The  most  skilful  attempt  of  the 
artist  to  transfer  its  color  to  canvas  utterly  fails. 

On  we  go,  up  and  up  all  night,  until  we  reach  a  line 
which,  though  imaginary,  is  one  that  every  schoolboy  and 
schoolgirl  has  heard  about.  Passing  the  Durango  state  line 
at  Camacho,  we  have  been  in  the  state  of  Zacatecas  since 
one  o'clock.  At  "  five  o'clock  in  the  morning "  we  are  at 
the  pretty  station  with  the  pretty  name,  Caiiitas.  At  half  past 
five  we  reach  Gutierrez,  and  at  half  past  six  are  due  at 
Fresnillo.  Between  these  last-named  stations  lies  that  myste- 
rious line  which  we  have  read  about,  but  never  have  seen,  the 
Tropic  of  Cancer. 

When  the  Major  reminded  the  boys  of  this  fact,  they  said 
they  must  get  up  to  see  that  line  anyway. 

"  We  don't  cross  a  tropic  every  day,  and  we  should  be  show- 
ing disrespect  to  geography  if  we  didn't  turn  out  to  meet  it," 
said  the  Captain. 

"Yes,  that's  so,"  added  the  Corporal,  "but  I  don't  care 
for  the  disrespect.  I'd  like  to  have  a  kick  at  that  twenty- 
three  and  a  half  degree  thing  that  used  to  bother  me  so.  Let's 
get  up,  by  all  means." 

"So  be  it,"  said  the  Major,  "we'll  make  sure  of  a  call.  I'll 
ask  'the  gentleman  from  Missouri '  to  wake  us  up." 

"Porter!" 

"Yes,  sah!  " 

"Please  call  us  three  about  twenty  minutes  before  we  get  to 
the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  we  want  to  be  up  when  we  get  to  the 
torrid  zone." 

"Torrid  zone  !      No  such  station,  sah." 

"  What,  are  you  sure  ?  " 

"  Never  heard  of  it,  sah.  " 

The  boys  had  to  laugh  at  the  look  on  Pete's  face.  Evidently 
he  thought  he  knew  the  names  of  stations,  but  in  order  to  Justify 
his  statement  he  drew  out  a  time  table,  and  read  :  — 

46 


"Jimuico,  Camacho,  Pacheco,  Fresnillo ;  no  Cancer  there, 
sir  !     Here's  Canitas;   maybe  that's  what  you  mean,  sah." 

"Oh,  no,  this  train  goes  past  Cancer,  or  I  have  been  mis- 
informed," said  the  Major,  very  positively  ;  "  and  if  I  have  been, 
I'll  make  a  row." 

"  Maybe  it's  on  the  other  road,  sah,  and  you  ought  to  have 
changed  cars  at  Torreon,  the  supper  station,"  said  the  porter,  a 
little  disturbed.  *'  Say  it  again,  sah,  please ;  I  don't  get  on  to 
the  Spanish  very  well." 

"Tropico  de  Cancer,"  soberly  said  the  Major. 

"  Sorry,  sah,  but  you're  on  de  wrong  train,  suah.  No  such 
station  on  dis  yer  road  ;  no  Topico,  no  torrid  zone." 

"  Well,  porter,  you  are  not  to  blame  if  we  are.  I  am  going  to 
Zacatecas  anyhow,  and  can  go  back,  if  necessary,  from  there ; 
maybe  it  is  on  the  International ;  but  please  wake  us  at  half 
past  five." 

"Yes,  sah,  suah." 

"Good  joke,  wasn't  it?"  said  the  Corporal,  when  Pete  had 
gone. 

"Pretty  good,"  said  the  Captain;  "'no  such  station,  sah'; 
you're  too  bad  to  play  so  on  the  gentleman  of  the  bedchamber. 
He'll  lose  all  confidence  in  himself,  if  he  can't  trust  himself  to 
remember  the  stations  along  the  line." 

"  Oh,  well,  he'll  remember  this  one  next  time.     Listen." 

Pete's  voice  was  heard  in  the  smoking-room.  A  dialogue  was 
going  on  between  the  conductor  and  porter. 

Porter:  "Got  a  time  table?  Less  see  it."  (Silence.) 
"Jess  like  mine." 

Conductor:  "What  is  it?" 

"Why,  that  Major  with  the  two  boys  wants  to  be  called  at 
Topico  de  Cancer.     I  tole  him  no  such  station." 

"  Was  he  awake?  " 

"  Certain." 

"  Did  he  say  Topico?" 

47 


"  That's  what  he  said.  He  said  this  train  go  past  that,  or 
he's  been  tole  wrong." 

"  Well,  you  didn't  understand  him  ;  he  knows  what  he's  about, 
he's  been  over  this  road  before." 

"  Maybe  he  has,  but  he  nebber  seen  no  Cancer  all  the  same  ; 
he's  pium  crazy  or  I'm  out ;  but  he  gets  off  at  Zacatecas.  I'll 
wake  him  up  at  five  o'clock,   and  let  him  hunt  for  it." 

All  was  soon  quiet  in  the  car,  and  nothing  further  disturbed  our 

party  till  five  o'clock,  when  Pete  re- 
marked to  the  Major, — 

"  Time  to  get  up  if  you  want  to 
get  up  at  five  o'clock." 

"  Pete,  you  know  I  said  half  past 
five,  but  no  matter.  Found  that 
station  yet  ?  " 

"No,  boss,  some  mistake  some- 
how. We  are  gone  past  Caiiitas ; 
that's  the  nearest  I  can  make  out 
to  your  Cancer." 

"All    right,    Pete,    that's    near 
enough.     The  place  I  mean  is  be- 
tween Gutierrez  and  Fresnillo." 
"  Flag  station,  maybe,  Major ;   express  trains  don't  stop  there 
I  reckon,"  said  Pete,  still  puzzled,  and  off  he  went. 

The  party  was  soon  ready  to  see  all  there  was  to  see,  and  so 
was  Pete,  on  the  sly.  Gutierrez  was  passed.  No  sign  of  move- 
ment could  Pete  detect,  except  a  languid  looking  out  of  the 
window,  but  soon  the  Major  said,  "  Come  on,  boys,  let's  go  out 
on  the  platform." 

Pete  had  business  that  way  too.  He  must  know  about  this 
thing.  Some  other  crank,  some  day,  might  strike  him  about  the 
same  place. 

The  Captain  spoke  up,  "  That  tropic  and  the  other  one,  how 
they  bothered  me  at  school." 


48 


"There's  two  of  'em,"  said  Pete  to  himself. 

"That's  so,"  joined  in  the  Corporal ;  "  that  twenty-three  and  a 
half  degree  business  was  what  I  never  could  understand." 

"  Must  be  curves,"  thought  Pete,  "  twenty-three  and  a  half 
degree,  no  such  curbs  on  this  yer  road.  This  is  a  straight  road 
mostly ;    eighteen  degrees  enough  for  any  road." 

"  'Twas  a  puzzler  to  me,  too,"  said  the  Major. 

"And  it  is  to  me,  too,  suah's  you  born,"  said  Pete  to  himself. 

"  How  I  remember  it  —  imaginary  line  twenty-three  and  a 
half  degrees  from  the  equator,  and  is  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  torrid  zone." 

"What's  that  he's  sayin',"  thought  Pete,  "  International  line 
twenty-three  and  a  half  degrees  from  Zacatecas,  and  north  of 
Torreon.  Oh,  he's  off  suah,  away  off,  and  he  ought  to  got  off  at 
Torreoft."  And  Pete  retired,  satisfied  that  the  party  was  hunt- 
ing for  some  station  on  the  International,  certainly  not  on  the 
Central. 

"  Well,  boys,  it  must  be  just  about  here,  anywhere  about 
here." 

"There  is  Mendoza,  740  miles  from  EI  Paso,  and  you  have 
been  a  few  minutes  already  in  the  torrid  zone,"  said  the  Major. 

"This  is  anything  but  torrid,"  shivered  the  Captain;  "I  want 
my  overcoat."     And  the  Corporal  added,  — 

"  And  I  want  mine  too.  I  can  imagine  the  line,  but  I  can't 
imagine  any  heat,  I  am  cold." 

"  Well,  elevation  has  something  to  do  with  this  shock  to  the 
faith  of  your  early  days.  Let's  go  in  now ;  we've  got  up  an 
appetite  for  a  good  breakfast,  which  we  are  sure  to  get  at  Calera, 
not  far  away." 

"  Why,  look  here.  Major,  it's  an  hour  and  more  to  breakfast, 
we  haven't  come  to  Fresnillo  yet." 

"No,  but  we've  passed  Tropico,  and  we'll  spend  part  of 
the  hour  talking  about  that  and  other  imaginary  things ;  here 
you  are  in  the  torrid  zone,  in  July,  1892,  shivering  and  calling 


49 


for  your  overcoats :  there's  nothing  imaginary  about  that,  is 
there?  Not  a  bit  of  it,  it  is  a  cold  fact.  The  air  will  be  colder 
before  it  is  warmer.  When  we  get  up  to  Zacatecas,  a  thousand 
feet  higher  than  we  are  now,  you'll  easily  imagine  that  you  are 
in  the  edge  of  the  frigid  or  at  least  of  a  very  intemperate  zone, 
especially  if  the  zephyrs  are  up  and  stirring,  as  they  usually  are 
there. 

"Fresnillo  !  here  we  are  at  an  old  mining  town,  and  a  place 
of  20,000  inhabitants,  they  say.  Nothing  new  about  this  place, 
but  the  railroad  and  its  commodious  buildings.  Fresnillo  is  sixty 
years  older  than  Plymouth  Rock.  It  dates  from  1554.  Can  you 
think  so  far  back,  Captain?  There  was  a  famous  mine  discovered 
near  here  in  that  year,  and  the  town  sprung  up.  There  is  a  stage 
line  from  here  to  Durango.  Chance  for  another  excursion  of 
a  hundred  and  eighty  miles  !  " 

"No,  I  thank  you,"  said  the  Captain.  "  Calera  is  as  far  as  I 
care  to  go,  at  least  before  breakfast." 

"We'll  have  a  good  appetite,  anyhow,"  said" the  Corporal. 
"The  porter  says  that  we  shall  get  a  fine  breakfast  there  ;  that's 
the  best  thing  I've  heard  to-day." 

"You  certainly  will,"  replied  the  Major.  "I  never  have  heard 
of  a  poor  meal  at  Calera  since  the  present  administration  came 
in.  I  am  quite  ready  myself  to  pay  my  morning  vows  to  the 
generous  Lady  of  Calera,  bless  her  Yankee  heart !  " 

"  An  hour  passed  on,  the  Turk  awoke."  This  Turk  was  the  little 
Corporal  who  was  quick  to  catch  the  porter's  "Calera,  half  an 
hour  for  breakfast." 

The  party's  great  expectations  were  more  than  realized.  A 
good  breakfast  was  looked  for,  as  there  was  no  occasion  to  doubt 
the  uniform  testimony  of  all  who  mentioned  the  hostess,  but 
the  breakfast  was  better  than  had  been  expected.  It  was  a  sur- 
prise, because  no  one  had  thought  to  find  American  cooking  and 
a  first-class  bill  of  fare  at  a  little  railroad  station  on  the  hills  in 
the  heart  of  Mexico,  seven  hundred  and  sixty-seven  miles  from 

50 


the  border.  The  meal  was  surprise  number  one,  and  the  build- 
ing in  which  they  found  such  satisfaction  was  surprise  number 
two.  Nothing  so  fine  had  been  seen  since  they  left  the  beautiful 
station  at  Juarez.  New  were  the  house  and  the  furniture,  clean 
and  bright  was  everything  about  the  establishment,  from  kitchen 
to  parlor. 

"That  is  something  to  write  home  about,"  said  the  Captain,  as 
he  came  out  of  the  dining-room.  "  The  folks  will  hardly  believe 
what  I  shall  tell  them." 

"Let  me  see  what  you  write,"  said  the  Corporal,  "and  I'll  say 
something  else.  I  know  you  won't  write  all  that  might  be  said. 
This  is  splendid." 

"  Yes,  people  in  the  States  have  been  kept  from  coming  to 
Mexico  by  the  cry  of  '  nothing  to  eat.'  But  things  are  changing 
for  the  better.  I  don't  think  they  ever  were  so  bad  as  repre- 
sented, but  certainly  they  are  good  enough  now.  This  is  an 
ideal  restaurant,  and  represents  the  standard  to  which  the  presi- 
dent of  the  road  is  working  to  bring  the  whole  meal  service 
along  the  line,  and  it  won't  be  long  before  he'll  have  duplicates 
of  Calera." 

From  the  platform  is  to  be  seen  a  group  of  pottery  kilns. 
Among  the  industries  of  Mexico  the  third  in  importance  is  the 
manufacture  of  vessels  from  clay.  Almost  every  village  has  a 
potter.  We  shall  see  the  various  styles  and  qualities  of  work  as 
we  visit  different  sections.  Here  in  the  state  of  Zacatecas  the 
ware  is  red,  hard  baked,  and  glazed  inside. 

As  they  started  again  the  Major  said, — 

"  Eighteen  miles  to  Zacatecas !  and  a  climb  all  the  way. 
'  Mountains  to  lefc  of  us,  mountains  to  right  of  us,'  and  a 
mountain  in  front  of  us,  exactly  in  front  of  us ;  we  can't  slide 
along  it,  we  must  climb  right  over  it." 

"  Well,  I  feel  as  if  I  could  walk  to  Zacatecas  if  necessary,  or 
help  push  the  train  up,"  said  the  little  Corporal. 

"  We  can  all  ride ;  our  horse  is  a  good  one,  and  he  won't  get 


51 


stalled.  But  he  has  got  good  work  to  do.  For  nine  or  ten 
miles  the  grade  is  not  severe,  but  then  comes  'a  tug  of  war' 
for  nine  miles.  This  morning's  ride  shows  us  the  first  really 
bold  scenery  and  high  grade  mountain  engineering  we  come  to 
in  Mexico." 

The  party  went  to  the  rear  platform.  From  there  they  could 
see  the  vast  red  plain,  over  and  up  which  they  had  been  climb- 
ing all  night,  spread  out  and  illuminated  by  the  morning  sun. 
The  view  was  a  revelation  of  grandeur  and  beauty. 

"  This  is  a  royal  ride,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  Grand,"  said  the  Corporal.  "  This  is  worth  coming  to  see. 
This  beats  the  breakfast." 

"These  curves  beat  any  on  the  Pennsylvania,"  said  the  Cap- 
tain, "  and  they  are  rather  '  mule  shoes  '  than  horseshoes." 

"  Yes,  and  sometimes  double  at  that,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"What  grade  is  this,  Major?  " 

"  About  one  and  a  half  per  cent,  I  think." 

"  Well,  what  is  that  a  mile  ?  " 

"  Figure  it  out,  my  boy ;  the  rise  is,  say,  a  foot  and  a  half  in  a 
hundred  feet  of  track." 

"That  is  just  about  eighty  feet  a  mile." 

"  That  is  about  it ;  in  ten  miles  we  rise  about  eight  hundred 
feet ;  a  steep  climb,  eh  ?  " 

"  Sure  enough.  What  are  those  white  monuments  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountains?" 

"  They  are  mine  boundaries." 

"And  these  walled  establishments?" 

"  They  are  the  reduction  or  hoisting  works  of  various  mines. 
We  are  now  in  one  of  the  great  silver-producing  regions  of  the 
world." 

As  the  party  were  gathering  up  their  traps,  preparatory  to 
leaving  the  train  at  Zacatecas,  Pete  came  up  and  said,  — 

"Sorry  yo  was  tole  wrong,  boss,  but  you  can  get  back  to 
Torreon  to-morrow  mornins:." 


52 


"  Thanks,  Pete,  we  don't  go  back,  we  are  all  right  and  so  are 

you.     Did  you  ever  go  to  school,  Pete?  " 
"  Mighty  little,  boss." 
"Ever  study  the  map?     Geography?" 
"  Neber  did,  boss,  for  a  fac',  only  the  railroad  map." 
"  Well,  I'll  send  you  a  book  that  will  tell  you  about  the  place 

that  we  were  looking  for.     Good  by." 


53 


IV. 


■  Has  this  fellow  no  feeling  of  his  business? 
Custom  hath  made  it  in  him  a  property  of  easiness." 

Hamlet. 


ZACATECAS  is  a  sample  mining  town. 
The  surrounding  hills  are  supposed  to 
be  full  of  silver.  It  is  said  that  mining 
was  begun  here  in  15 16,  and  farther, 
I  it  is  estimated  that  a  product  of  fully 
eight  hundred  million  dollars  has  been 
taken  out  already.  It  is  a  curious 
place  ;  there  is  but  one  other  in  Mexico 
like  it,  the  city  of  Guanajuato,  which 
we  shall  visit  later  on.  In  1886  there 
were  about  fifteen  thousand  miners  at  work  in  and  about  these 
hills. 

"Where  is  the  city?"  asked  the  Captain,  as  the  party  stood  at 
the  station.  "  I  see  only  a  few  straggling  huts  in  the  valley  and 
along  the  hillside.       I  thought  this  was  a  large  place." 

"So  it  is  ;  walk  down  the  track  with  me  a  few  rods,  you'll  see 
something  that  will  surprise  you." 

As  they  walked,  they  met  a  score  of  men  packing  bags  upon 
the  backs  of  burros.  Four  small  sacks  or  two  large  ones  loaded 
the  little  animals  with  all  they  could  carry.  They  also  met  a 
group  of  soldiers  escorting  and  guarding  a  motley  crowd  of  men 
bearing  water  in  casks  suspended  on  poles.  The  men  were 
prisoners  bringing  the  daily  water  supply  from  a  tank  above  the 
track.     On  the  hillside  was  a  novel  sight.     A  group  of  men  was 


54 


seated  around  a  little  fire,  and  two  or  three  women  were  provid- 
ing for  the  group  what,  by  courtesy,  we'll  call  a  breakfast.  'I'he 
little  burros  were  nosing  about  while  they  were  waiting  for 
their  loads.  What  they  could  find  to  eat  did  not  appear  to  the 
party.  Farther  on  was  a  wood-pile,  and  such  wood  !  crooked 
as  a  ram's  horn. 

"What  is  that  man  doing?"  asked  the  Captain,  "that  one 
under  the  three  poles?" 

"Oh,  he  is  weighing  wood  !  You  see  he  doesn't  want  to  load 
the  donkey  too  heavily,  and  besides,  he  sells  wood  by  weight. 
See  the  donkey  below  the  pile  there,  partly  loaded,  and  see  that 
boy  on  the  lower  side  bracing  up  the  animal ;  but  for  the  boy, 
the  donkey  would  roll  over  and  f\  ^ 
down  the  hill.  And  that  hut ! 
a  dug-out,  thatched  with  a  few 
branches  and  parts 
of  old  bags.  How 
is  that  for  a  summer 
residence?" 

"  Look  here.  Ma- 
jor, I  am  cold.  How 
the  wind  blows  !" 

"We  are  now  more  than  eight  thousand  feet  high,  and  our 
overcoats  are  needed  for  comfort.  Even  with  them  on,  we  must 
move  about  lively  to  keep  warm.  But  what  do  you  think  of 
those  poor  creatures  who  have  on  only  a  little  cotton?" 

They  walked  on  a  few  rods  farther,  the  Major  calling  their 
attention  to  sundry  sights  along  the  upper  side  of  the  track, 
when  suddenly  he  said,  "  Now  turn  and  look  at  the  city." 

There  lay  the  houses  of  Zacatecas,  as  grain  lies  in  the  hopper 
of  a  mill.  Hills  on  every  side,  the  low,  flat-roofed,  square  build- 
ings rise  in  terraces  up  the  steep  declivities,  having  the  ap- 
pearance of  blocks  fastened  to  an  inclined  plane.  And  how 
crowded  !     There   seems  to  be   no  room  for  growth,  unless  it 


55 


be  up  the  mountains,  or  down  the  one  valley  towards  the  plain 
of  Guadalupe. 

"That  is  a  beautiful  sight,  and  no  mistake,"  exclaimed  the 
Captain.     And  the  Corporal  chimed  in, — 

"  How  like  the  pictures  I  have  seen  of  Oriental  towns  !  " 

"  Yes,  everybody  remarks  the  likeness  to  the  cities  of  Pales- 
tine. This  flat-roof  style  of  house  is  of  Moorish  origin,  and 
came  here  from  Spain,  where  the  Moors  held  dominion  for 
eight  hundred  years." 

"  What  a  curious  shaped  mountain  !  that  high  one  above  the 
town,"  said  the  Captain.  "  It  looks  like  a  buffalo  with  his 
back  up." 

"That  is  the  name  of  it,  the  '  Bufa,'  the  Spanish  for  buffalo. 
How  would  you  like  to  climb  up  that  trail  on  your  knees? 
That  is  what  a  good  many  people  have  done,  going  to  do 
penance  and  get  absolution  in  that  chapel  away  up  there,  called 
Los  Remedios." 

"I'll  be  good,"  replied  the  boy.     "Please,  I  don't  want  to." 

"Well,  now  let's  go  back  to  the  station,  get  our  hand  baggage, 
and  look  up  a  hotel." 

"  Shall  we  take  a  carriage  ?  " 

"  W^e  might,  if  we  could  find  one,  but  I  never  saw  a  half- 
dozen  carriages,  public  or  private,  in  this  city.  That  is  one 
curious  thing  about  the  town,  the  absence  of  vehicles,  excepting 
carts  and  ore  wagons.  The  burro  is  the  barouche  for  this 
place.  We'll  take  that  street  car,  it  runs  from  the  station 
through  the  town,  to  the  foot  of  the  Bufa." 

"  This  seems  quite  American,"  said  the  Corporal,  as  he 
boarded  the  car. 

"  'Tis  American,  made  in  New  York,  you  observe." 

"  But  this  isn't  American,"  said  the  Captain,  as  the  car  went 
flying  down  the  hill  as  fast  as  mules  can  run.  The  little  animals 
had  to  gallop  or  get  run  over.  The  car  did  the  driving,  and 
the  driver  smoked.     About  half-way  of  the   trij)  a  conductor  got 

56 


The  largest 


on,  took  the  fare  and  handed  each  passenger  a  ticket,  from 
which  the  corner  was  torn,  that  it  might  not  be  used  again. 
No  one  collects  the  tickets.  The  Captain  read  on  his,  which  he 
preserved  as  evidence  of  a  visit  to  the  city,  "  Compania 
Zacatecana  de  Tranvias,  6  Centavos." 

"  Now  about  a  hotel,  let's  look  at  the  cards  which  were  put 
mto  our  hands  on  arrival  this  morning,"  said  the  Major. 
"  Here  they  are.  Ah,  Hotel  Central,  '  el  mas  elegante  y  mejor 
amueblado  de  la  ciudad.  Camas  de  Resorte,'  etc.  The  most 
elegant  and  the  best  furnished  in  the  city,  and  spring  beds  ! 
That  sounds  well,  but  listen  to  this  :  '  Hotel  Zacatecano,  el  mas 
grande,  hermoso  y  sano  de  la  ciudad.' 
most  beautiful,  and  healthiest  in  the 
city.  '  Magnifica  situacion  ' —  fine 
situation.  '  Puede  alojar,'  etc.  Its 
ample  and  elegant  rooms  will 
accommodate  any  number  that 
may  be  desired.  That  is  the 
hotel  for  us,"  said  the  Major ; 
and  he  added,  "You  will   find  --"-^~    -      -_^ 

these  very  same  words  on  the  Zacatecano  letter  paper.  Lucky 
for  us  that  the  house  can  accommodate  '  un  numero  consider- 
able de  pasajeros.'  Boys,  you'll  have  the  pleasure  of  sleeping 
in  a  convent  to  night.     That's  something  new  for  you,  eh?" 

"  A  convent,  you  don't  mean  a  nunnery?  " 

"  Oh,  no,  and  not  even  a  convent  now.  The  building  was 
once  the  Augustinian  convent.  Part  of  it  is  the  hotel,  and 
part  of  the  old  establishment  is  a  Protestant  church." 

The  car  came,  passing  through  a  narrow,  crooked  street,  into 
a  large  square,  where  one  of  the  most  curious  sights  in  all  Mex- 
ico is  presented.  The  boys  could  not  find  words  with  which  to 
express  their  surprise,  and  so  were  silent.  But  their  feelings 
could  be  read  in  their  faces.     The  Major  said, — 

"  Boys,  what  do  you  think  of  that?  " 


57 


They  both  exclaimed,  "  Well  that  beats  all  I  ever  saw.  Let's 
get  off  and  watch  them." 

"  No,  we'll  come  back  as  soon  as  we  have  got  rid  of  our 
traps  at  the  hotel.     That  is  the  sight  of  Zacatecas.     Isaac  and 

:  Rebecca  at  the  fountain  are 
'  not  a  circumstance  to  these 
poor  creatures  scooping  up 
water." 

"  Well  I  should  say  not. 
Do  look  at  those  jars." 

The  party  found  the  Zacate- 
cano  to  be  viiiy  grande,  if  not 
0  mas  grande,  everything  about 
it  was  large.  Each  of  the 
two  stories  is  at  least  twenty 
feet  high.  As  is  customary  in 
all  fine  Mexican  houses,  the 
patio  is  a  little  park  or  flower 
garden.  The  lower  story  is 
devoted  to  business  matters, 
the  upper  story  to  dormitories 
and  dining-room. 

The    first    excursion    from 
IJj    the   hotel  took  them  up   the 
main  street  to  the  pretty  little 
plaza,  and  to  the  Cathedral. 

"  Can  we  get  into  the  Ca- 
thedral? It  is  a  beautiful 
building." 

'■Oh,  yes,  and  you'll  fiml  many  people  there.  All  daylong 
the  old  and  young,  men  and  women  and  children,  are  going  in, 
kneeling  and  coming  out.  Hats  off  as  soon  as  you  approach  the 
outer  door ;  almost  every  man  on  the  street  takes  off  his  hat  as 
he  passes  the  door  of  any  church." 


58 


''Beautiful!"  said  the  Captain  in  a  whisper.  "The  white 
and  gold  make  a  pleasing  combination.  The  statues  are  par- 
ticularly good.  I  want  to  see  that  solid  silver  font,  which  is 
said  to  be  worth  a  hundred  thousand  dollars." 

"  You'll  have  to  wait  a  good  while  before  you  see  that.     It's 
gone  where  the  silver  statues  of  the  apostles  went 
that  Napoleon  once  found  in  a  church." 

"  Where  is  that?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"Napoleon  said,  'What  are   these  men 
standing  here  for?     Melt  them  up,  and 
make  them  do  as  their  Master  did,  "go 
about  doing   good." '      You'll  learn         ,. 
about  the   confiscation  of  church 
property  by  and  by,  and  then  you'll 
know  what  became  of  the  silver  font. 
Come  on.  Captain." 

Crossing  the  street,  they  turned 
to  look  at  the  imposing  front  of 
the  building.      The  material  is 
brownstone,  and  the  carvings  are 
very  fine. 

There  are  few  more  attractive 
towers  in  Mexico  than  the  three 
of  this  church,  one  square,  one 
tall  and  graceful,  and  one  a 
mosque-like  dome. 

"  Things  here  are  old  in  the 
matter  of  churches,"  said  the  Major, 
in  1612.     It  grew  slowly,  and  was  not  completed  till  1752." 

"  Yes,  I  know,"  said  the  Captain,  "  these  great  buildings  are 
the  real  century  plants.  Cologne  Cathedral,  I  have  read,  re- 
quired more  than  six  hundred  years  for  completion." 

"  Well,  we'll  see  the  best  and  leave  the  rest,  boys.  That  old 
church  up  the  hill  is  fine  too,  the  church  of  San  Jos6  ;  but  if  we 


'This  building  was  begun 


59 


go  into  half  the  churches  in  the  towns  we  visit,  we  shall  have  no 
time  left  for  the  other  things." 

"  Let's  go  to  that  fountain  now,"  said  the  Corporal ;  "  that  beats 
anything  I  ever  saw." 

"  Very  well,  notice  the  odd  things  along  the  streets  as  we  go. 
The  streets  present  a  view  of  every-day  life  as  the  majority  of 
the  people  of  Mexico  have  it.  You  will  see  that  it  is  a  life  of 
burden  largely ;  and  if  they  were  not  the  most  patient  people  in 
the  world,  I  should  think  life  itself  would  be  a  great  burden." 
..  "I  noticed,"   said  the  Captain, 

i  ^^  "  that    everybody     seems     to     be 

carrying  something ;  babies,  bags, 
boxes,  bricks,  fruit,  hay,  water, 
everything  is  carried  on  the  head 
or  back.  Although  in  the  city,  I 
should  say  this  is  the  fiiick  country  ; 
every  building  has  been  packed  up 
on  somebody's  shouhiersy 

"  That  reminds  me  of  what  a 
Boston  lady  wrote  from  here  about 
some  good  lessons  that  the  Ameri- 
cans might  take  from  the  Mexicans. 
;,.  She  says,  'There  is  their  way  of 
'■:  holding  the  dear,  dark  little  babies, 
~  with  a  long  fold  of  the  nurse's 
reboso,  or  scarf,  wound  around  the  little  creature  from  mouth 
to  hips,  supporting  the  back  and  neck  well,  and  throwing  the 
child's  weight  on  the  bearer's  shoulder,  instead  of  her  arms  and 
hips.'  Well,  I  thought,  how  do  these  babies  like  it,  and  now 
would  our  babies  like  it,  and  what  is  the  matter  with  a  baby 
carriage,  and  did  the  dear  woman  think  that  nurses  in  Mexico 
carry  babies  on  their  shoulders?  Well,  hardly.  Mothers  who 
must  tote  their  babies  along  carry  them  thus,  so  as  to  leave  the 
arms  free  to  carry  their  wares ;  in  fact,  to  get  the  young  ones  out 


60 


n 


of  the  way.  But  it  is  a  fact  that  it  is  easier  to  carry  a  weight 
on  your  back  or  head  than  in  your  arms.  These  people,  the 
men  I  mean,  can  hardly  learn  that  any  other  way  is  possible. 
The  contractor  who  is  building  the  Baptist  church,  and  who  built 
the  great  market  yonder,  told  me,  while  you  were  looking  at 
that  train  of  burros,  that  he  introduced   the  wheelbarrow  here. 


The  Mexican  laborer  loaded  the  vehicle,  and  then  put  it  on  his 
head  and  carried  it  into  the  building  !  The  American  showed 
him  how  to  wheel  it,  and,  as  he  found  it  easier  to  take  the  load 
that  way,  he  continued  to  wheel  it ;  but  what  do  you  think  ! 
after  dumping  the  load  he  put  the  wheelbarrow  on  his  head  and 
carried  it  back  to  the  brick-pile.  The  same  thing  was  true  of 
the  laborers  who  worked  on  the  railroad." 


6i 


"  I  should  think  they  would  know  better  than  that,"  said  the 
Captain.     "  What  did  they  think  the  wheel  was  for?  " 

"  Quien  sabe!  Captain.  They  don't  seem  to  think.  They 
go  about  their  work  mostly  like  Longfellow's  *  dumb,  driven  cattle.' 
They  are  as  patient  and  as  tough  as  oxen." 

"Ah,  there  it  is,  there's  the  fountain,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 
"What  a  sight!" 

"  Yes,  it  is  a  sight.  I've  stood  and  watched  them  for  an  hour 
at  a  time,"  said  the  Major,  "  so  eager  and  active.  Come  up 
close  to  the  basin  and  you'll  see  why  they  have  to  almost  stand 
on  their  heads  to  get  the  water,  and  why  it  takes  so  long  to  fill 
one  of  their  jars." 

From  the  centre  of  a  stone  basin,  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter, 
rises  a  fountain  ;  water  is  flowing  by  half  a  dozen  small  streams 
into  the  reservoir,  around  which  are  constantly  fifty  or  sixty  people 
ready  to  catch  the  first  drop  that  comes  within  reach.  The 
water  never  attains  a  depth  of  half  an  inch  in  the  reservoir, 
except  in  the  night.  What  accumulates  then  is  all  carried  away 
before  the  visitor  is  up.  As  the  wall  of  the  basin  is  quite  high, 
short  people  have  a  hard  time  to  get  any ;  all  have  to  balance 
across  the  wall  and  scoop  up  what  they  can.  The  implement 
mostly  used  is  a  piece  of  gourd  or  a  piece  of  tin  slightly  bent. 
Jars  of  red  clay  with  large  mouths  are  the  most  common  articles 
for  transportation  ;  they  are  carried  on  the  shoulder.  However, 
in  recent  times,  the  large  square  oil  cans  of  commerce  have 
displaced  the  jar.  Whole  families  seem  to  come  to  the  fountain. 
One  member  will  dip  awhile,  a  second  holds  the  baby  and 
gossips  with  the  neighbors,  while  a  third  looks  on;  then  the 
third  dips  awhile,  the  first  holds  the  baby,  and  the  second 
looks  on.  It  takes  hours  to  fill  a  can  or  a  jar  when  business  is 
lively,  that  is,  when  the  walls  are  crowded  with  the  dippers. 

"Well,"  said  the  Captain,  after  the  party  had  gazed  on  the 
scene  long  enough,  "  that  is  certainly  worth  coming  to  see.  It  is 
an  Oriental  scene,  and  I  do  not  wonder  that  visitors  are  struck 

62 


by  the  resemblance  of  things  here  to  those  in  Morocco,  Pales- 
tine, and  the  Orient  generally." 

"Now  let  us  go  down  to  Guadalupe,  and  see,  as  many  people 
think,  the  prettiest  chapel  in  all  Mexico.  We  have  a  ride  of  six 
miles  down  grade  by  gravity,  and  a  return  ride,  up  grade  of 
course,  by  mule  power.  We  get  out  of  this  ravine  into  a  beau- 
tiful valley,  and  far  away  from  'the  madding  crowd.'  " 

Down  went  the  little  train,  looking  and  acting  for  all  the  world 
like  a  runaway  train.     But  it  kept  the  track  and  soon  delivered  its 


)i:^^©«^i■*'i£l?^ 


passengers,  first  and  second  class,  right  side  up  and  in  good 
order,  in  Guadalupe. 

Passing  through  the  plaza  and  then  through  a  little  park  in 
front  of  the  church,  the  party  entered  the  building,  where  they 
found  a  large  number  of  worshippers.  The  high  altar  is  sur- 
rounded by  large  statues  of  the  chief  actors  in  the  crucifixion, 
and  seems  to  stand  on  Calvary  itself,  as  there  is  behind  it  a  great 
painting  showing  a  multitude  such  as  we  may  suppose  sur- 
rounded the  three  crosses  in  Judaea. 

The  chapel  is  the  gem  of  the  establishment.  It  is  not  an  old 
building,  but  it  is  beautiful  beyond  description.     The  inlaid  floor 


63 


of  different  colored  woods ;  the  gorgeous  decorations  of  the  altar, 
displaying  silk  and  gold  and  silver  and  onyx  trimmings ;  the 
frescos  on  walls  and  dome, —  all  combine  to  make  a  most  pleas- 
ing impression  on  the  eye. 

"Who  pays  for  these  costly  altars?"  asked  the  Captain.  "The 
people  seem  too  poor  to  do  it !  You  say  this  cost  half  a  million 
dollars?" 

"Ah,  you  know  'mony  a  puckle  maks  a  muckle' ;  and  enough 
centavos  will  make  a  peso.  But  this  chapel,  like  many  others  in  the 
country,  is  the  gift  of  a  lady  of  wealth.  Let  us  be  thankful  to  her 
for  giving  the  world  something  new  and  pretty,  and  for  refrain- 
ing from  'improving'  (and  spoiling)  some  beautiful  old  thing. 
We  ought  to  go  to  the  orphanage  here,"  added  the  Major, 
"but  we  have  not  time  enough.  It  occupies  an  old  convent,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  Mexico.  It  seems  to  me 
in  utility  to  be  ahead  of  the  famous  Hospicio  of  Guadalajara. 
Here  are  about  three  hundred  orphan  boys  being  taken  care  of  and 
taught  useful  trades.  They  run  a  bakery  which  supplies  their  own 
establishment  and  some  other  public  institutions ;  they  make  the 
cloth  for  their  own  clothes,  and  they  do  most  of  the  public 
printing  of  the  city.     That  is  a  practical  charity." 

"Indeed  it  is,"  said  the  Captain;  "I'd  like  to  go  through  their 
building  and  see  them  at  work.  Don't  you  think  that  they  are 
making  a  better  use  of  the  old  convent  than  the  old  monks 
did?" 

"Well,  'comparisons  are  odorous,'  you  know,  Captain.  Let  us 
say,  we're  glad  the  orphans  have  a  home,  and  that  the  good  old 
padres  builded  better  than  they  thought." 

"Vamonos  !  a  Zacatecas." 

Six  mules  seem  to  have  enough  to  do  to  get  the  train  up  to 
the  starting  point  in  Zacatecas,  but  they  get  there  in  time. 

Rising  early  the  next  morning  the  party  went  to  the  great 
market,  one  of  the  finest  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  RepubHc. 
It  is  an  immense  iron  structure,  recently  erected,  for  two  pur- 

64 


poses,  trade  and  recreation.  The  ground  floor  is  devoted  to 
trade,  and  the  upper  floor  to  music  and  dancing  on  occasion. 
Whoever  fails  to  visit  the  market  places  of  Mexico  misses  half 
the  fun  of  the  trip.  There,  as  nowhere  else,  the  native  is  at 
his  best,  and  at  her  best,  for  the  women  are  in  the  majority. 
Everything  you  can  think  of,  from  a  pepper  to  a  pig,  is  on 
sale ;  chile,  charcoal  and  chickens,  tortillas,  tomalcs  and  turkeys, 
beans  and  brooms,  nuts  and  narancas,  fruits  and  roots,  sandals, 
and  sweets,  and  almost  every  namable 
thing  you  can  think  of  is  for  sale  or 
trade.  In  the  market  place  you  will 
always  find  a  lively  scene,  and  one 
worth  going  to  see. 

Back  to  the  Zacatecano  for  coffee 
and  rolls,  and  thence  to  the  station, 
was  the  programme  now.  Another 
look  at  the    fountain  scene,  a  glance 

into  open  doors  of  the  hovels  called  houses,  a  ride  up  the  long 
hill,  and  they  are  there  half  an  hour  before  train  time.  They 
paid  a  visit  to  the  old  pantheon  or  cemetery,  just  across  the 
track  near  the  station. 

"There  is  something  old  over  there,  boys,  but  I  think  you'll 
see  something  new,"  said  the  Major,  on  the  way. 

"  What  can  there  be  new  there?  "  asked  the  Captain. 

"  It  was  new  to  me  to  see  human  bones  kicked  around  in  a 
graveyard." 

"  What !  how  came  the  bones  there?  " 

"Well,  that  is  the  new  thing  I  was  telling  you  of.  At  home 
we  buy  lots  in  cemeteries,  and  expect  that  when  we  lie  down  in 
them  we  shall  not  be  disturbed.  Here,  space  for  burial  is 
bought  by  many  people  for  a  period  only,  say  of  five  years. 
When  the  time  expires,  the  occupant  of  that  space  must  make 
room  for  another  tenant.  If  friends  come  to  receive  the 
remains  of  the  late  lamented,  well  and  good ;  but  if  not,  said 

65 


remains  are  subject  to  eviction,  and  hence  these  bones  of  the 
human  anatomy  which  are  often  seen  in  these  enclosures." 

"  Well,  Major,  I'll  take  your  word  for  it.  I  see  the  tombs, 
and  I  think  I  don't  care  to  see  any  more.  Let  us  walk  down  the 
track  again  and  get  that  view  of  the  city." 

"Good,"  said  the  Corporal,  "that's  the  best  thing  we  can  do, 
and  I  want  to  see  them  load  that  donkey  with  wood  again." 

"But  we  must  look  at  this  fine  station,  too.     It  is  not  large, 

but  there's  a  lot  of  business  done  there.     Let  us  look  into  the 

freight-house.     We  can  see  the  city  as  we  go  along  in  the  train." 

A  visit  to  the  freight- house  gave  the  boys  some  idea  of  the 

great  variety  and  quantity  of   the   merchandise    required    by  a 

great  city  like  Zacate- 
cas,  which  manufac- 
tures very  little  and 
buys  almost  every- 
thing it  uses.  It 
also  gave  them  an 
idea  of  the  prod- 
ucts of  the  sur- 
rounding region, 
which  are  brought 
in  for  shipment.  A 
freight-house  isn't 
very  pretty,  but  like 
any  plain  schoolma'm  it  can  tell  you  a  whole  lot  that  you  didn't 
know  before.  In  Mexico  "pictures"  are  plenty  at  the  pas- 
senger stations,  but  pesos  are  coined  across  the  track  at  the 
freight-houses. 

The  descent  of  the  mountain  to  the  plain  on  the  south  of 
Zacatecas  is,  if  possible,  more  exhilarating  than  the  ascent  from 
Calera.  The  train  runs  round  the  rim  of  the  basin  in  which 
the  city  lies,  passes  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  station  eastward 
over  one  of  the  great  mines,  under  the  walls  of  a  reduction  works, 


66 


and  turns  the  point  of  the  mountain.  Along  the  side  of  this 
its  course  is  due  west  to  the  head  of  a  great  ravine,  where  it 
resumes  its  course  south  for  a  moment,  and  then  runs  east  again 
along  the  other  side  till  the  point  of  another  mountain  is 
turned,  when  a  straight  course  is  taken  to  the  plain.  This  ra- 
vine is  a  busy  spot.  In  it  are  several  works  for  the  treatment 
of  ores.  You  can  look  directly  down  into  the  yards  where  the 
"patio  process"  is  in  operation.  From  these  two  turning  points 
of  the  mountain  fine  views  of  the  city  and  of  the  valley  leading 
down  to  Guadalupe    are  obtained.      You  see  across  the  valley 


the  litde  train  on  its  runaway  tti[)  U)  the  suburban  city,  and 
you  notice  also  the  numerous  reduction  works  and  mills  along 
the  valley. 

After  a  six-mile  run,  and  a  descent  of  five  hundred  feet,  the 
station  of  Guadalupe  is  reached.  In  a  straight  line  it  is  not 
more  than  three  miles  from  Zacatecas ;  but  a  straight  line 
wouldn't  be  so  picturesque,  even  if  it  were  possible.  The 
station  is  about  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  and  high  above  it.  The 
view  across  the  valley  is  charming.  The  group  of  graceful 
churches,  with  their  towers  and  tiled  domes  and  minarets,  domi- 
nates the  landscape.  How  different  this  from  the  close  and 
crowded  city  under  the  mountains  which  we  have  just  left !     As 


67 


far  as  the  eye  can  reach  to  the  south  and  east,  the  valley  glows 
with  green  and  gold.  Away  beyond  Guadalupe,  in  the  east,  a 
little  lake  glistens  like  a  mirror  in  an  emerald  frame.  It  is  Lake 
Pevernaldillo.  On  its  farther  shore,  among  the  trees,  can  be 
seen  the  walls  and  chimneys  of  a  large  pottery,  which  supports 
the  little  town  of  Ojo  Caliente,  and  which  supplies  the  women  at 
the  fountains  in  Zacatecas,  and  at  many  other  places,  with  their 
jars  for  water,  and  other  wares  for  household  use.  For  twenty- 
five  miles  we  continue  our  ride  across  this  beautiful  valley,  which 
is  largely  under  cultivation. 

At  Soledad  we  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  salt  and  soda 
lakes,  which  give  employment  to  many  men,   and  considerable 


business  to  the  road.  In  the  forty  miles  from  Zacatecas  we 
have  dropped  some  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and  now  we  have  almost 
a  straight  and  level  line  to  Aguas  Calientes. 

We  keep  now  in  a  fertile  and  cultivated  country  for  many 
miles.  On  either  side  of  the  train  we  see  haciendas,  some  near 
and  others  farther  away ;  beyond,  are  fields  of  corn  and  grain, 
as  well  as  groves  and  orchards.  Around  us  are  the  hills,  every- 
where the  hills,  now  blue,  now  brown,  now  purple.  Passing 
Rincon,  Pabellon,  and  Las  Animas,  we  come  to  Chicalote,  where 
we  cross  a  little  stream  which  rejoices  in  the  strong  name  of  Rio 
Brazos  Santiago.     This  Chicalote  is  not  a  large  or  an  important 


68 


station,  as  you  will  observe,  but  it  is  the  point  of  departure  of 
the  Tampico  branch  from  the  main  line  ;  trains  for  that  divis- 
ion, however,  are  made  up  at  Aguas  Calientes,  nine  miles  south 
of  Chicalote.  Soon  on  our  right  we  see  the  campanil  of  the 
parish  church,  the  domes  and  towers  of  other  churches,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  we  arrive  at  Agnas  Calientes,  one  of  the  most 
charming  cities  in  Mexico. 


69 


"  But  whate'er  smacked  of  noyance  or  unrest 
Was  far,  far  off  expell'd  from  this  delicious  nest." 

Castle  of  Indolence. 

T  the  Station  there  is  always  great  activity.     Besides 
the  usual  reception  committee,  three    trains   are 
there  at  once,  —  the  train  from  Mexico,  the  train 
from    Tampico,    and    the    one    from    El    Paso. 
Hustle  and  bustle,  and  all  over  in  half  an  hour, 
till  next  day  at  the  same  time  when  the  trains 
from  the  border,  the  coast,  and  the  capi- 
tal meet  here  again. 

"  Aguas  Calientes  is  a  busy  place,"  ex- 
claimed the  Captain. 

"Is  it   always   like   this?"  asked    the 

Corporal.     "  Why  this  is  like  a  fair  or  a 

market   day.      Look  at  those    men  with 

their  feather-work,  their  cotton  and  linen 

napkins,  their  mosaic  and  hair-work,  candies,  and  fruits,  and, 

well,  no  end  of  things." 

"  Yes,  this  is  their  chance,  and  they  make  the  most  of  it.  Let's 
get  out  of  the  crowd." 

"Dinner  is  ready,  Major,  let's  go  in." 

"  All  right,  we  always  get  a  good  meal  here.  A  French  pro- 
prietor looks  after  things,  and  we'll  find  things  good  enough  for 
anybody." 

After  a  satisfactory  dinner,  the  party  took  a  look  about  the 
station  before  going  to  the  city,  which  is  a  mile  off  to  the  west. 


70 


They  saw  a  large  commodious  building  with  convenient  offices, 
restaurant,  waiting  and  baggage  rooms.  Up  the  track  were  the 
large  freight-houses  and  the  shops  and  buildings  for  repairing  and 
housing  the  motive-power.  Across  a  little  plaza  were  several  fine 
houses  which  the  company  had  just  completed  for  the  use  of 
their  agents  or  employees.  It  was  evident,  from  the  amount  of 
property  here,  that  the  company  regards  this  as  one  of  the  most 
important  points  on  the  line. 

Here  also  is  a  fine  hospital  for  the  employes  of  the  road. 
The  hospital  service  of  the  Central  is  most  efficiently  equipped. 
Besides  the  buildings  here  and  at  Chihuahua,  there  are  others  at 
Tampico,  at  Guadalajara,  and  at  the  city 
of  Mexico.  These  establishments  are 
supported  by  contributions  and  by  as- 
sessments upon  the  wages  of  employees. 
When  the  men  require  hospital  service 
they  have  it  free,  and  have  the  best  treat 
ment  that  medical  science  can  provide. 

As  the  junction  point  of  the  Tampico 
division  it,  of  necessity,  has  more  busi- 
ness and  requires  the  ser\ices  of  a  larger  number  of  men  than 
any  station  we  have  seen,  excepting  the  terminal  point,  Juarez. 

A  stroll  from  the  southern  end  of  the  station  brought  them  to 
the  old  paseo  of  the  town,  through  which  street  cars  run  from 
the  railroad  east  a  mile  to  the  famous  springs,  and  west  a  mile  to 
the  plaza  of  the  city.  'YVx?,  paseo  or-alameda  is  an  avenue,  not 
paved,  however,  shaded  by  immense  trees,  which  form  by  their 
limbs  and  foliage  a  continuous  green  arch. 

On  one  side  of  this  avenue  is  the  ditch  or  narrow  canal 
through  which  flows  the  water  from  the  springs,  and  which  affords 
the  average  citizen,  male  and  female,  old  and  young,  the  use  of 
a  laundry  and  a  bath-house  free  of  price. 

"  How  different  this  from  Zacatecas  ! "  said  the  Captain. 
"  Like  another  world  !  " 


71 


"  Yes,  and  a  beautiful  world  too,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  Very  different  and  very  beautiful,"  added  the  Major. 
"  Plain  instead  of  mountain,  comfort  instead  of  cold ;  shed 
your  overcoat  here.  Water,  and  plenty  of  it.  No  standing 
on  your  head  to  scoop  it  up.  Generous  old  Lady  Nature  not 
only  gives  plenty,  but  gives  it  hot  for  washing  and  cold  for 
drinking.     Here  is  where  the  free  Mexican  citizen  disports  him- 


self under  the  cuttonwood  and  chaparral ;  the  whole  family,  too, 
does  the  same  thing,  and  neither  native  nor  visitor  makes  any 
one  afraid." 

"  Well,  let's  go  and  try  the  waters  ourselves ;  is  the  bath-house 
far  away?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  No,  right  here  close  to  the  station.  The  old  baths  are  at 
the  eastern  end  of  this  avenue,  but  a  short  walk  will  bring  us  to 
the  Banos  Chicos,  the  newest  and  finest  baths  of  the  place." 

"  Come  on  then,"  said  the  Captain,  "  what  are  we  here  for, 
I  should  like  to  know,  if  not  to  go  in  swimming?" 

"Can  we  have  a  swim,  a  real  swim?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

''■  Certainly,  you'll  see  as  fine  a  pool  as  the  one  you  like  so 
much,  '  down  at  the  big  rock,'  and  a  great  deal  warmer." 


72 


"  What  a  pretty  building  !  See  the  bright  green  plants,  and 
the  brilliant  flowers.  Why,  this  is  a  park ;  palms,  bananas, 
orange-trees  !     Where  are  we  at?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  This  is  the  place,  here  we  can  get  any  kind  of  a  bath  we 
may  want.     We  want  a  swim,  of  course." 

Down  the  long  corridor  from  one  court  to  another,  past  the 
little  cells  where  shower  and  tub  baths  are  supplied,  they  came 


to  the  great  pool  in  which  half  an  hour  of  luxury  was  enjoyed, 
and  from  which  they  came  out  feehng  as  chipper  as  a  sparrow 
after  its  morning  flutter  in  a  fountain. 

"  Now  for  the  hotel  and  a  look  at  the  city,"  said  the  Major. 
"  The  Plaza  Hotel  is  kept  by  an  American  and  on  the  Amer- 
can  plan,  so  far  as  circumstances  will  allow.  The  table  is  good, 
and  you  are  made  to  feel  at  home  as  soon  as  you  enter  the  house. 
All  the  rooms  open  upon  a  beautiful  patio  filled  with  plants  and 
flowers.  If  the  great  membrillo-tree  in  the  corner  is  in  blossom, 
you  will  see  something  very  handsome  and  very  rare." 

The  plaza  is  well  kept,  and  the  taste  displayed  in  winding 
walks,  artistic  grouping  of  flowers,  and  variety  of  plants  makes  it 
very  attractive  to  visitors  as  well  as  to  the  residents.  Around 
the  square  are  fine  buildings ;   the  parish  church  on  one  side,  the 


73 


government  palace  on  another,  the  hotel  and  stores  on  a  third, 
and  fine  stores  on  the  fourth.  The  streets  are  wide  and  are 
kept  clean.  Two  lines  of  street  cars  provide  the  people  with 
cheap  rides  to  the  suburbs.  The  visitor  has  a  choice  of  twelve 
churches  and  of  three  bathing  establishments.  The  garden  of 
San  Marcos  is  like  a  section  of  the  Alameda  in  Mexico,  and  sur- 
passes that  beautiful  park  in  the  display  of  flowers. 

It  was  very  fortunate  for  the  visitors  that  they  were  here  on  a 
feast  day,  for  it  gave  them  an  opportunity  to  see  more  people 

from  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, and  to  see  them  to 
better  advantage  than  or- 
dinary circumstances  would 
offer.  It  was  the  day  of 
NuestraSeiiora  de  la  Asun- 
cion, to  whom  the  largest 
church  is  dedicated.  The 
building  was  decked  with 
flags  from  ground  to  tip 
of  the  beautiful  campanile. 
Business  was  suspended, . 
and  everybody  was  out  for 
a  holiday. 

The  Corporal  was  es- 
pecially interested  in  the 
bells,  which  were  ringing 
all  day.  Each  bell  had  a 
^  ringer  of  its  own.  A  pe- 
culiarity' of  Mexico,  which  any  keen  observer  will  notice,  is  that 
bells  are  not  rung  by  ropes,  but  are  tumbled  over  and  over 
by  hand.  Above  the  bells  are  blocks  which  afford  a  leverage, 
and  which  about  balance  the  bell.  The  ringer,  pulling  at  the 
top,  easily  turns  the  bell  over,  and  once  revolving  he  keeps  it 
going.     Another  thing  noticeable  here  is,  bells  are  not  hung  in 


A 


■  -^ 


i-     i1  *  ■4>iBJ4|  '* .  ■>*Wt-a»!Wbi««ii 


74 


chimes.  Each  one  goes  it  alone,  and  the  effect  on  the  ear  when 
a  half-dozen  or  more  bells  are  going  as  they  please,  and  are  not 
in  unison  with  each  other  to  start  with,  is  not  the  most  agree- 
able. The  ringers  seem  to  be  on  a  race  and  keep  at  it  till  they 
are  exhausted,  when  new  ringers  give  them  a  rest ;  but  the  bells, 
the  bells  !   they  get  and  give  no  rest. 

"  I  want  another  swim,"  said  the  Captain.  "  Let's  go  to  the 
other  bath-house,  the  old  one." 

"  VVe  can't  spend  too  much  of  our  time  in  the  water,  my  boy. 
We  must  look  around  this  place,  there  is  much  to  see  that  is 
worth  coming  to  see.  The  governor's  palace  is  something  very 
beautiful,  and  the  market  is  very  entertaining.  We  must  give 
more  time  to  land  than  to  water,  even  in  Aguas  Calientes. 

"By  the  way, 
see  how  nicely 
the  stone  in  the 
walls  is  dressed. 
No  such  work 
can  be  done  in 
adobe. 

"This  town  is 
remarkable  for 
the  fine  display 
of  carved  stone 
in  its  street  ar- 
chitecture. 

"  Down  the  new  faseo,  or  boulevard,  to  the  river  is  a  beau- 
tiful drive,  and  there  is  a  little  park  there  devoted  to  picnics. 
Not  every  town  in  Mexico  can  have  such  a  variety  of  parks  and 
places  of  recreation  as  this.  After  that  we  must  look  into  the 
old  Church  of  San  Diego  and  see  those  mosaic  floors  of  wood. 
We  ought  to  go  to  jail  too." 

"  To  jail !  I've  heard  that  Mexican  jails  are  terrible  places." 

"  The  people  here  are  particularly  proud   of  their  jail.     It  is 


75 


really  a  fine  thing  for  a  jail  —  in  Mexico.  Oh,  there's  lots  to  do, 
and  not  much  time  to  do  it  in ;  so  vamanos  !  " 

"Well,  Major,  isn't  this  the  land  of  manana?" 

"  Not  for  us,  Captain.     It  may  be  that  for  the  natives." 

"  We'll  do  what  we  can  this  afternoon,  and  then  take  time  for 
that  other  swim,  when  we  leave  for  the  station  in  the  morning." 

"  Lead  on,  O  Spartacus,  to  church  or  jail,  I'll  follow  thee." 

*'  I  think  this  is  rushing  things,"  said  the  Corporal. 

After  supper  the  party  went  to  the  plaza  and  listened  to  the 
music.  This  was  the  boys'  first  experience  of  the  evening  use 
of  a  plaza;  they  were  delighted  with  the  provision  made  for 
entertainment.  Fine  music,  comfortable  seats,  bright  lights,  and 
pleasant  promenades.  One  thing  impressed  them  as  rather 
odd.     The  Captain  inquired, — 

"  How  is  this?  I  don't  see  men  and  women  walking  or  sitting 
or  talking  together.  The  gentlemen  go  one  way  around  the 
park,  and  the  ladies  the  other." 

"Yes,  that's  the  way  here.  The  custom  of  the  country,  in  all 
parts  the  same,  doesn't  allow  of  the  mingling  of  the  maidens  and 
youth  in  public  or  in  private,  as  they  mingle  in  our  country,  nor 
anything  approaching  it.  If  you  see  a  lady  and  gentleman 
together  here,  you  may  conclude  that  they  are  members  of  the 
same  family,  or  are  soon  to  become  such.  As  to  talk,  there  is  a 
language  of  the  eye  which  is  widely  spoken  on  these  prom- 
enades. That  they  may  see  and  be  seen,  they  promenade  in 
opposite  directions." 

"  That  wouldn't  suit  me,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"Nor  me,"  added  the  Captain. 

"  Well,  it  has  to  suit  the  Mexican,  and  he  has  to  suit  himself 
to  the  traditions  and  social  laws  of  the  land.  Some  time  you'll 
see  an  interesting  sight  —  a  young  man  'playing  the  bear,'  and 
then  you'll  think  he  has  hard  lines  sure." 

"What  in  the  world  is  that,  playing  the  bear?  Does  he  play 
alone  and  in  public?     That  must  be  fun  !  " 

76 


"  Yes,  he  has  to  play  it  alone  and  (juite  in  public,  and  I 
suppose  it  is  fun,  or  he  wouldn't  play  it.  The  game  must 
be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  I'll  show  it  to  you  in  .the  city 
of  Mexico,  Remind  me  of  it  some  day  when  we  are  ram- 
bling there." 

After  breakfast  they  took  another  stroll  through  the  famous 
garden  of  San  Marcos,  made  another  visit  to  the  market,  and 
thus  completed  their  exploration  of  Aguas  Calientes.  The  boys 
were  enthusiastic  in  their  exclamations  upon  the  certain  but 
almost  undefinable  charm  of  the  city  and  its  suburbs. 

"It  is  quite  dull,  just  now,"  said  the  Major.  "To  see  it  at 
its  best,  we  want  to  be  here  between  the  20th  of  April  and 
the  loth  of  May.  That  is  the  great  fiesta  of  the  year,  and 
that  period  also  includes  the  Mexican  fourth  of  July.  St. 
Mark  is  the  patron  saint  of  these  people,  and  for  two  weeks 
they  celebrate  his  virtues,  although  they  do  not  closely  imi- 
tate them.  Turkeys  are  ripe  at  that  season,  and  thousands 
of  them  are  picked  by  the  pious  pilgrims  to  la  fiesta  de  San 
Marcos." 

Leaving  the  hotel  in  ample  time,  they  soon  arrived  at  the 
Banos  Grandes,  or  big  baths,  at  the  east  end  of  the  Alameda. 
The  car  stops  on  the  edge  of  a  large  pool,  on  the  farther 
shore  of  which  are  several  large  adobe  bath-houses.  These 
enclose  perhaps  twenty  separate  baths,  of  different  sizes  and 
degrees  of  temperature.  Each  one  has  a  name,  usually  that 
of  some  saint.  The  boys  wanted  a  swimming  bath,  and  so 
chose  the  one  properly  named  for  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and 
found  a  pool  twelve  feet  square,  open  to  the  sun.  In  this 
pool  they  splashed  and  swam  to  their  hearts'  content,  and  in 
half  an  hour  the  party  were  ready  to  return.  They  then 
walked  around  the  pond  and  saw  a  dozen  woraen  washing 
clothes  on  flat  stones,  and  hanging  them  on  the  bushes  in 
the  sun  to  dry. 

"Is  that  warm  water?"  asked  the  Captain. 


77 


GARDEN   OF  SAN   MARCOS. 


"Certainly,  it  is  the  spring  water ;  it  comes  up  inside  the 
buildings,  and  flows  out  into  this  pool ;  from  that  it  flows  to 
town  through  the  canal  which  passes  under  the  track  close  by 
the    station.     In   the    bath  named    San  Ramon    the  water   is 


78 


hottest,  being  about  ninety-six  degrees.  In  the  canal  it  is  sixty- 
five  degrees  or  less." 

As  they  walked  along  the  canal  they  saw  scores  of  men, 
women,  and  children  getting  a  free  bath.  The  Major  saluted 
everybody  with  the  buenos  dias,  and  the  salute  was  cordially 
returned  in  every  case.  The  boys  could  say  nothing  in  Spanish, 
the  only  language  worth  talking  there ;  but  they  kept  up  a  lively 
looking  all  the  way,  and  made  sundry  remarks  to  each  other  and 
to  the  Major. 

"Don't  these  people  object  to  visitors?" 


"No,  they  don't  care  a  centavo  who  sees  them.  In  t'.ct,  hic^ 
rather  like  American  visitors,  for  no  one  of  them  would  pass 
these  little  chocolate  muchachos  without  dropping  a  few  centavos 
into  their  chubby  hands." 

There  was,  of  course,  a  remarkable  absence  of  clothes  and 
conventionalities,  but  everything  about  the  bathing  business  was 
conducted  modestly  and  with  as  much  regard  to  the  proprieties 


79 


as  circumstances  would  allow.  There  was,  really,  nothing  more 
there  to  shock  a  delicate  sense  than  one  will  see  at  any  fashion- 
able bathing  beach  in  the  States. 

On  account  of  ihtfieshi  there  were  more  people  than  usual 
enjoying  the  luxury  of  the  canal.  Of  course  swimming  is  not 
practicable  because  the  canal  is  narrow ;  but  sitting  baths  are 
taken  by  wholesale  along  the  entire  length  of  the  bath-tub,  from 
the  pool  to  the  railroad  station.  Not  only  nor  chiefly  for  bath- 
ing is  the  canal  used  by  the  people  :  it  is  the  great  laundry  of  the 

city.  Every  day  in  the  year 
scores  and  sometimes  hun- 
dreds of  women  come  to  its 
lianks  to  do  their  washing. 
The  bushes  afford  a  ready 
clothes  line,  and  by  the  time 
the  lavandera  has  taken  her 
own  bath,  her  washing  is 
^  dried  and  bleached. 

"I  wish  we  could  stay 
here  longer,"  said  the  Cap- 
tain, "this  is  the  finest  place 
I've  seen." 

"So  do  I,"  said  the  Corporal.  "There  can't  be  anything 
nicer.     I  would  like  to  stay  a  week." 

Resuming  the  journey  southward,  we  continue  through  a 
region  very  similar  to  that  about  Aguas  Calientes.  We  are  in  the 
better  part  of  Mexico.  Cultivated  fields  abound,  and  everywhere 
are  proofs  of  fertility  and  industry.  Haciendas  are  more  fre- 
quently to  be  seen,  and  the  green  fringes  on  the  landscape  tell 
the  story  of  streams.  In  an  hour  and  a  quarter  we  enter  the 
state  of  Jalisco,  and  soon  see  on  the  right  of  the  train  a  consid- 
erable town,  a  mile  or  two  distant.  Above  the  town  rise  the 
graceful  towers  and  dome  of  a  church.  The  town  is  Encarnacion, 
the  church  is  the  Candelaria. 


80 


We  now  come  to  the  longest  and  highest  bridge  on  the  whole 
line.  It  crosses  the  barranca  through  which  runs  the  little  river 
Encarnacion.  The  bridge  is  seven  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet 
long,  and  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  stream.  Look- 
ing down  into  the  gorge  on  the  left  side  of  the  train,  we  see  how 
people  manage  in  this  country  to  secure  and  conduct  water  to 
their  towns  and  fields.  A  fine  piece  of  stone-work  makes  a 
reservoir  of  the  river,  and  the  water  is  led  off  in  ditches.  One 
bridge  has  been  carried  away  by  this  innocent-looking  stream. 


J/mH^ 


but  the  present  structure  seems    able  to  defy  the  utmost  mis- 
chief or  malice  of  the  flood. 

Beyond  the  town,  on  the  hillside,  we  see  the  city  of  the  dead, 
the  Campo  Santo,  with  its  white  walls  and  chapel.  The  railroad 
station  is  beyond  the  bridge,  about  a  mile  from  the  town.  A 
tramway  connects  the  city  and  the  station,  passing  through  San 
Pedro,  a  suburb.  The  dome  of  the  church  of  San  Pedro  is  very 
imposing,  far  surpassing  that  of  the  parish  church  of  Encar- 
nacion. Within  the  next  two  hours  we  pass  a  number  of  large 
haciendias  and  see  numerous  artificial  lakes,  or  presas,  which 
store  the  water  for  irrigating  the  lands. 


A  quaint  station  is  that  of  Santa  Maria,  and  not  less  so  that 
of  Santa  Barbara,  below  which  we  climb  a  sharp  grade  to  Los 
Salas,  and  immediately  descend  to  Lagos,  the  next  station 
of  importance.      This  is  a  thriving  city  of  twenty  thousand 
population  and  the  centre  of  trade  for  a  very  rich  agricultural 
district.      The    station   building,  a  handsome  two-story  struc- 
ture of  adobe,  and  the  freight- house  show  that  the  people 

of  this  much-laughed-at  place 
are  not  slow  in  the  business 
either  of  shipments  or  of  con- 
sumption. 

There  are  numerous  stories 
about  the  people  of  Lagos, 
which,  if  true,  show  them  to  be 
somewhat  like  the  great  Falstaff,  "  not  only  witty,  but  the  cause 
that  wit  is  in  other  men." 

It  is  said  that  there  is  an  inscription  on  the  bridge  which 
reads,  "This  bridge  was  built  in  Lagos,"  and  that  some  one 
added  to  that  inscription  making  it  read,  "This  bridge  was 
built  in  Lagos  to  walk  under  and  not  over." 

That  is  nearly  as  bad  as  a  notice  by  the  government  in 
Oaxaca  which  announces  a  fine  on  any  one  "  crossing  on  the 
bridge  when  the  stream  is  not  too  high  to  ford." 

Again,  they  say,  that  the  council  of  twelve  was  to  hold  a 
meeting  in  the  hall  where  was  a  bench  on  which  all  should  sit. 
Six  came,  and  each  put  his  hat  beside  him  on  the  bench.  When 
the  other  six  came,  there  was  no  room  for  them.  It  was 
decided  to  stretch  the  bench.  Each  man  put  his  hat  on  his 
head  and  the  twelve  men  pulled  on  the  bench,  six  at  each 
end.  Then  they  all  sat  down,  for  the  bench  was  now  long 
enough  for  them  all. 

This  is  a  current  legend  in  Mexico  :  In  some  work  on  the 
plaza,  at  Lagos,  a  hole  was  dug,  and  left  unfilled ;  several 
children  fell  into  it.     The  council  held  a  session,  and  ordered 


82 


it  filled.  It  was  filled,  by  dirt  dug  near  by ;  and  lo  !  there  was 
another  hole  !  Now  that  was  ordered  filled.  It  was  filled  but 
lo  1  there  was  still  a  hole,  as  dangerous  as  the  first,  but  of  course 
farther  away  from  the  plaza.  By  a  series  of  fillings  the  succes- 
sive holes  were  annihilated,  and  the  last  hole  was  away  out  of 
town  !  Thus  was  the  dangerous  hole  moved  from  the  plaza  of 
Lagos. 

Again,  it  was  reported  that  grass  was  growing  on  the  roof  of 
a  public  building.  The  council  resolved  that  the  grass  must  be 
removed.  But  how?  After  serious  deliberation  it  was  ordered 
that  an  incline  be  made,  and  a  cow  driven  up  to  eat  the  grass 
from  the  roof!  Thus  will  some  unkind  inventor  of  fairy  tales 
slander  the  good  people  of  Lagos. 

Lagos  has  had  a  hard  time  within  the  last  few  years.  The 
diligences  which  used  to  connect  with  the  railroad  the  great 
cities  of  Guadalajara,  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  on  the  west, 
and  San  Luis  Potosi,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  on  the  east, 
have  been  remanded  to  the  realms  of  "innocuous  desuetude" 
by  the  railroad  itself,  which  now  has  branches  to  both  cities. 
Thus  Lagos  lost  much  of  its  importance  as  a  passenger  station. 
And  again,  the  city  suffered  enormously  by  the  diastrous  flood 
of  1888.  Many  lives  were  lost  then,  and  a  vast  amount  of 
property  was  destroyed ;  but  in  spite  of  slander  and  of  raging 
streams,  Lagos  still  lives  and  flourishes. 

The  scenery  about  Lagos  is  beautiful.  The  view  here  pre- 
sented will  give  the  reader  a  faint  conception  of  the  charm 
of  the  valley.  For  the  first  time  the  traveller  from  the  north 
meets  the  organ-cactus,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
pipes  of  an  organ.  It  makes  a  pretty  fence,  needs  no  paint, 
in  fact  is  always  fresh,  and  grows  ready  barbed.  It  is  hog 
and  dog  proof,  almost  bullet  proof.  Picturesque  to  a  degree 
is  an  avenue  between  hedges  of  this  organo,  and  musical  to 
a  degree  does  the  muchacho  become  who  attempts  to  climb  tlie 
fence. 

83 


The  Hotel  de  Diligencias  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  all 
Mexico.  Janvier,  who  seems  to  know  them  all,  says,  "  It  is  quite 
worth  while  to  stop  at  this  pretty  little  town  for  a  day  or  two, 
solely  for  the  sake  of  benefiting  by  Don  Pedro's  culinary  skill. 
He  is  a  Gascon,  an  old  soldier,  and  a  cook  of  noble  parts." 

Twenty  miles  south  of  Lagos  we  enter  the  state  of  Guanajuato  ; 
descending  lower  into  the  valley,  we  soon  arrive  at  Leon,  a  large 
and  flourishing  city,  noted   for  its  manufactures,  delightfully  sit- 

■  uated  in  the  midst  of 
gardens  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rio  Turbio. 

The  people  of  Leon 
seem  to  believe,  with 
the  old  tanner,  that 
"after  you  have  said 
and  done  all,  there  is 
nothing  like  leather." 

Here  leather  is  made 
and  here  leather  is 
turned  into  shoes,  san- 
dals, and  saddles.  Leon 
revels  in  the  rcboso  and 
scintillates  in  the  za- 
rape.  The  rcboso  is  the 
universal  woman's  wrap, 
or  the  universal  wrap  of 
woman  in  Mexico.  The  common  cotton  shawl  or  scarf,  generally 
blue  or  brown,  that  you  see  on  the  common  class  women,  is  the 
rcboso.  The  better  class  wears  a  black  garment  of  the  same 
scarf  kind,  called  a  fapalo;  and  the  lady  of  high  degree,  one 
made  of  fine  wool  or  lace,  called  the  mantil/a,  which  is  the  fetch- 
ing, finishing  garment  of  the  seiiorita  of  song  and  story. 

The  zarape  is  the  man's  wardrobe,  or  at  least  the  most  impor- 
tant piece  of  it.     This  is   likewise    a   scarf  or  shawl.     Nothing 


84 


seems  to  delight  the  male  Mexican  like  "a  bit  of  color,"  unless 
it  be  two  or  three  bits,  and  accordingly  this  indispensable  gar- 
ment, to  have  value  in  his  eyes,  must  rival  Joseph's  coat  as  to 
colors.  The  gayer  it  is  the  better  it  suits  the  wearer.  We  would 
call  the  zarape  a  blanket  perhaps,  and  so  it  is  by  night,  but  by 
day  it  is  a  cloak.  When  the  average  Mexican  man  gets  under 
his  great  sombrero  and  within  his  zat-ape,  there  isn't  much  to  be 
seen  of  the  man. 

Leon  annually  makes  thousands  and  thousands  of  zarapes 
and  rebosos,  and  also  great  quantities  of  soap,  cutlery,  and  com- 
mon crockery.  It  used  to  be  counted  the  second  city  in  the 
Republic,  but  by  the  latest  returns  it  is  the  sixth  in  population. 
It  has,  of  course,  a  plaza  mayor  and  a  dozen  smaller  parks. 

The  Cathedral  of  Leon  is  a  handsome  building,  begun  in 
I  746.  It  has  no  aisles,  but  has  two  very  high  towers  (finished 
in  1878).  The  patroness  of  Leon  is  Our  Lady  of  Light,  whose 
image  is  in  the  Cathedral.  The  city  government  solemnly  swore 
allegiance  to  her,  May  23,  1840,  and  Pope  Pius  IX.  approved 
the  act  Dec.  20,  1851.  That  does  not  seem  very  long  ago,  does 
it?  It  is  known,  however,  that  there  was  a  Spanish  town  here 
before  1550,  so  the  town  is  old,  even  if  Our  Lady  of  Light  is 
young  as  patroness. 

Leon  has  every  appearance  of  thriftiness.  The  people  all 
seem  to  be  busy,  and  their  houses,  many  of  them  of  stone,  show 
the  results  of  profitable  labor.  Much  of  the  manufacturing  is 
done  at  home.  The  old-fashioned  hand  loom  is  a  more  frequent 
article  of  furniture  than  the  piano,  and  its  operation  is  constant. 
The  people  take  their  music  in  the  plaza  and  at  the  theatre. 
The  main  plaza  here  is  like  that  of  all  large  towns,  but  more 
attractive  than  that  of  many.  The  square  enclosing  it  is  formed 
by  the  city  hall  on  one  side,  and  rows  of  colonnades  or  portales 
on  the  other  three  sides.  There  are  also  eight  or  ten  smaller 
plazas  in  Leon.  The  paseo  is  part  of  the  highway  to  Silao,  but 
such  another  you  can  scarcely  find  in   Mexico.     It  is  a  cause- 

85 


way  paved  with  a  reddish  stone,  shaded  by  triple  rows  of  great 
trees,  and  bordered  by  hedges  of  orange-trees.  Fancy  a  prome- 
nade through  such  an  aisle,  on  the  sides  of  which  are  displayed 
at  the  same  moment  the  green  leaf,  the  white  blossom,  and  the 
yellow  fruit ! 

Then  the  theatre  at  Leon  1  that  surprises  everybody  who  visits 
it.  It  is  worth  stopping  over  to  see.  It  is  even  more  beautiful 
than  the  famous  Teatro  Nacional  of  the  capital.  A  lady  thus 
writes  of  it :  "A  fine  edifice  of  stone,  with  a  great  open  vestibule 


rOKTAI.E^   AT   Ar.I'AS   CAI.IENTES. 


sixty  feet  square  as  entrance,  filled  with  flower  beds,  a  fountain 
in  the  centre,  and  domed  with  glass,  into  which  opened  the  wide 
galleries  by  four  separate  flights  of  broad  stone  steps.  Behind 
every  group  of  eight  seats  a  latticed  door  gave  egress  to  the 
gallery  on  each  of  the  four  stories,  so  that  no  possible  panic 
could  produce  more  than  a  momentary  result." 


86 


The  city  is  a  mile  or  more  away  from  the  station,  and  no  one, 
without  going  to  it,  would  imagine  that  surrounding  the  great 
dome  and  lofty  towers  of  the  Cathedral  in  sight  there  was  a  town 
which  boasts  of  more  than  five  hundred  streets,  more  than  two 
hundred  blocks,  and  more  than  eight  thousand  houses.  Leon 
is  a  lion  in  a  pretty  cage,  well  fed  and  happy. 

The  Mexican  Central  runs  a  local  daily  train  to  and  from 
Leon  and  Guanajuato  and  the  city  of  Mexico.  The  people  of 
these  two  large  cities,  and  of  all  stations  below  Leon,  enjoy 
therefore  the  luxury  of  two  passenger  trains  a  day,  while  those 
above  have  to  be  content  with  one. 


•A^^-'- ' 


VI. 


"Tricks  he  hath  in  him  which  gentlemen  have." 

Airs  Well  That  Ends  IVell. 


"Asleep  in  the  lap  of  legends  old." 

The  Eve  of  Si.  Agnes. 

ILAO  is  certainly  a  place  of  importance  to  every  trav- 
eller on  the  Central  road,  as  it  is  a  supper  station  for 
south-bound  and  a  breakfast  station  for  north-bound 
trains.  This  statement  indicates  that  the  remaining 
distance  (two  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles)  be- 
tween Silao  and  the  capital  is  passed  over  in  the 
night.  Whoever  goes  over  this  part  of  the  line  by 
night  loses  some  very  fine  scenery.  The  boys  did 
not  wish  to  miss  anything  interesting,  and  both  said 
at  once,  "  Let  us  stop  over  at  Silao,  and  take  the  rest 
of  the  trip  by  daylight." 
"We  will  do  so,"  replied  the  Major.  "The  restaurant  in  the 
station  is  first-class,  and  for  lodging  there  are  two  good  hotels 
near  the  station.  No  danger  now  '  after  dark  in  Silao.'  It  is 
a  place  of  sunshine  by  day  and  of  silence  by  night.  Once 
the  headquarters  of  the  dreaded  banditti,  it  is  now  a  division 
headquarters  of  the  '  army  of  civilization,'  and,  of  course,  this 
means  extensive  shops,  round-house,  and  other  buildings  per- 
taining to  the  operating  department  of  the  road.  There  must 
necessarily  be  quite  a  colony  of  railroad  people  here,  and  there 
is  always  quite  a  colony  of  people  in  search  of  rest,  recreation, 
or    health.      The    climate    of   Silao    is    equable    and    delightful. 


88 


Many  who  find  the  capital  too  high  or  too  anything  for  com- 
fort, come  to  Silao,  which  is  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet 
lower,  and  therefore  affords  reUef  and  a  radical  change  from 
life  in  a  poorly  drained  city,  at  an  elevation  of  more  than  seven 
thousand  feet." 

From  Silao  a  branch  road  runs  to  the  great  mining  city 
Guanajuato,  capital  of  the  state. 

The  principal  business  of  Silao  is  the  grinding  of  wheat. 
Next  to  maize  the  greatest  crop  of  Mexico  is  trigo,  or  wheat,  and 
this  state  of  Guanajuato  produces  large  quantities  of  it  as  well  as 
of  silver.  The  grain  is  sown  between  November  and  January 
and  harvested  in  April  and  May.  Its  yield  is  from  fifteen  to 
forty  times  the  seed.  Instances  of  a  crop  one  hundred  times 
the  seed  are  not  uncommon.  Humboldt  says  that  Mexican 
wheat  is  among  the  best  in  the  world.  The  crop  of  1880,  in 
this  country,  was  valued  at  $18,000,000,  while  the  corn  crop 
was  valued  at  $113,000,000.  You  see  the  proportion;  corn  is 
king.  The  bread  of  Mexico  is  not  the  wheaten  loaf,  but  the 
thin  tortilla  made  from  meal  and  without  yeast. 

"  Oh,  the  tortilla  ;  tell  us  about  that.  Major." 

"There  isn't  much  to  tell.  You  have  read  about  the  'two 
women  grinding  at  the  mill '  in  Palestine  two  thousand  years  ago. 
Just  so  the  women  grind  in  Mexico  to-day.  They  soften  corn 
and  lay  it  on  a  flat  stone  called  a  vietdte,  and  with  another  stone, 
shaped  like  a  rolling-pin,  they  grind  the  corn  to  a  paste.  This 
paste  is  patted  into  thin  cakes,  and  baked  quickly  on  another 
flat  stone  or  metal  plate." 

"  And  what  about  *  Mexican  potatoes,'  Major?  " 

"  Oh.,  frijoles :  they  are  beans.  They  form  the  principal  food 
of  the  common  people.  They  grow  with  the  corn,  being 
planted  between  the  rows,  and  the  value  of  the  crop  in  1880 
was  about  $9,000,000 ;  half  that  of  the  corn  crop,  you  see. 
The  old  bill  of  fare  of  the  poor  of  Mexico  is  the  same  to-day 
that  it  was  a  thousand  years  ago,  and  pcobably  will  be  a  thou- 

89 


sand  years  hence.  Frijoles  and  chile,  beans  and  red  pepper, 
soft  and  hot,  reaching  the  spot,  twice  a  day  sure,  every  day  in 
the  year.     If  corn  is  king,  beans  are  close  to  the  throne." 

"I  should  think,  Major,  that  it  must  be  hard  work  to  grind  at 
such  a  mill  as  you  describe,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  It  is  hard  work,  my  boy.    Talk  about  the  old  wash-board,  that 

meant  scrub  and  scrub,  but  that  doesn't  mean  the  work  it  takes 

to  run  such  a  mill ;   and  yet  these  women  will  get  down  on  their 

knees,  or  crouch  flat  on  the  ground,  and  keep 

the  mill  going  from  morning  till  night.     But 

then  they  don't  have  many  dishes  to  wash." 

"How  is  that?" 

"Why,  you'll  see  when  you  observe  how 
they  eat  their  tortillas  and  frijoles. 
They  spread  the  beans  on  the  corn 
cake,  holding  the  cake  as  a  plate. 
They  double  up  another  cake  for  a 
scoop,  and  with  this  they  shovel  the 
beans  into  their  mouths ;  when  the 
beans  are  gone  they  eat  the  plate  and 
the  scoop,  and  there  are  no  dishes  to 
wash  ! " 

"That's  a  good  scheme,"  exclaimed 
the  Corporal ;  "  I  wonder  how  that 
would  work  in  Boston?" 

"Not  style  enough  about  it,"  said 
the  Captain.     "Can  we  get  tortillas  and  fri- 
joles in  Silao?  " 
"You  can  get  them  anywhere  and  everywhere  in  Mexico,  if 
you  can  get  anything  at  all.     I  never  struck  but  one  place  where 
they  could  not  be  had,"  said  the  Major  ;  "  that  was  way  down  in 
Lower  California.     We  asked  for  corn,  for  beans,  for  eggs,  and 
for  'anything  in  the  world '  to  eat,  and  all  the  reply  we  could  get 
was,  *  No  hay,  senor'  (there  are  none,  sir).     And  it  was  a  fact. 


90 


The  poor  people  had  not  a  single  mouthful 
of  food   in   their    hovel,   which    we    named 
Hotel  de  No  Hay.     We  had  a  good  supply 
of   provender  with  us.      We   gave 
them  one  Sfjuare  meal,  and 
left  them  stuff  enough 
for    another    when   we 
departed.      You've 
struck  'poverty  ranch' 
sure  enoucrh   vh'^n  v  ^v 


can't  find  there  tortillas  and 
frijoles." 

There  is  nothing  very  re- 
markable at  Silao,  but  a  col- 
lection of  fifteen  thousand 
Mexicans  is  sure  to  be  picturesque  and  entertaining,  and  Silao 
glories  in  that  number.  The  churches  are  not  extraordinary, 
but  the  Santiago  displays  one  of  the  prettiest  spires  in  Mexico, 
and  the  church  of  Vera  Cruz  contains  a  very  ancient  Santo 
Cristo.      This    figure   is    life    size,  and   is   said    to   date  "  from 


91 


before  the  Moorish  conquest  of  Spain."  If  it  is  a  fact,  that 
image  (of  pith  or  whatever  material  it  is  made  of)  is  the  oldest 
European  article  in  Mexico.  The  town  of  Silao  dates  from 
1553,  and  so  itself  is  no  mushroom  growth. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  branch  train  from  Guanajuato  and  the  local 
from  Leon,  the  party  bade  adieu  to  Silao  and  resumed  the  jour- 
ney southward,  passing  through  more  of  the  same  rich  section 
which  they  had  seen  the  day  before.  In 
fact,  the  whole  run  of  a  hundred  miles 
through  the  state  of  Guanajuato  from  above 
Leon  to  below  Celaya  is  made  in  the  re- 
nowned Bajio  region.  It  is  a  vast  T-shaped 
depression  or  wide  low  plain  (not  exactly  a 
valley),  noted  for  its  fertility  and  delightful 
Its  elevation  is  less  than  six  thou- 
,  and  it  has  always  been  a  favorite 
region  for  residence.  It  is 
the  most  densely  settled  sec- 
tion of  the  whole  country. 

Senor  Barcena,  author  of 
a  "History  of  the  State  of 
Jalisco,"  and  of  other  im- 
portant statistical  works,  says 
in  Republicaiia  Mexicana  : 
"  The  Bajio  is  an  extensive 
and  rich  region,  where  every 
year    are     raised     enormous 

I    crops    of    cereals.      In    this 

section  many  crops  requiring  irrigation  are  also  raised,  since 
there  is  an  ample  supply  of  water  even  in  the  dry  season, 
coming  from  the  reservoirs  on  the  plantations.  Besides  this, 
subterranean  water  is  found  at  little  depth,  and  this  facilitates 
irrigation.  To  this  are  due  the  many  vegetable  gardens  and 
orchards  of  Leon  and  Salamanca." 


92 


o 
o 
Si 
< 

^ 

PI 

V 

H 

^<^<KtV 

W 

*$*^"'^n  ^ 

> 

c 

> 

H 

O 

» 

r 

SK 

Through  such  a  region,  the  most  productive  in  the  RepubUc, 
does  the  Mexican  Central  run  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles, 
and  we  may  say  for  more  than  two  hundred,  since  the  Guadalajara 
branch  covers  one  arm  of  the  T. 

These  general  remarks  will  apply,  therefore,  to  the  lands  seen 
on  either  side  of  the  track  between  Leon  and  Quer^taro.  It 
only  remains  to  describe  the  various  towns  along  the  line. 

Twenty  miles  below  Silao,  after  passing  numerous  haciendas, 
we  come  to  Irapuato,  the  famous  "strawberry  station"  of  the 
country,  from  which  point  the  Guadalajara  branch  starts  for  the 
beautiful  "Lake  Region"  of  Mexico  and  for  La  Perla  del  Occi- 
dente,  as  its  terminal  city  is  called.  Irapuato  has  a  population 
of  about  fourteen  thousand.  The  town  is  about  a  mile 
away  from  the  station,  and  the  tourist,  unless  he  goes  to 
the  plaza,  can  see  nothing  of  Irapuato,  but  a  few  church  and  con- 
vent towers.  He  won't  see  much  else,  if- he  does  go;  but  the 
court  of  the  convent  is  worth  going  to  see,  and  so  is  the  pretty 
little  plaza  or  alaineda  itself.  Here  is  the  prettiest  litde  nook 
imaginable,  and  such  a  queer  conjunction  of  the  antique  and  the 
modern.  The  antique  is  represented  by  the  church  and  by  the 
curious  (in  such  a  place)  machinery  for  elevating  water.  Fancy 
an  old-fashioned  "crotch  and  pole  "  well-sweep  in  the  Public 
Garden  !  You  have  it  in  the  alameda  at  Irapuato.  The  modern 
is  represented  by  the  charming  little  zocolo,  or  music  stand,  and 
the  artistic  flower  beds  margined  and  banked  with  different 
colored  pebbles  laid  in  mosaics. 

Most  of  the  people  are  out  in  the  strawberry-beds  probably, 
but  there  will  be  enough  there  to  make  it  lively  for  you  in  dis- 
tributing centavos.  One  will  find  that  it  is  a  peculiar  place  in 
some  respects.  One  can  see  hereabout  the  old  Egyptian  style 
of  irrigation,  the  results  of  which  are  seen  in  the  baskets  of 
delicious  fresas  (strawberries),  which  every  day  in  the  year 
are  to  be  had  at  Irapuato  station,  and  so  cheap  too  !  Dos 
reales  for  a   heaping  basket  of  strawberries  in  March,  say,  or 


93 


in  December  !  And  do  you  believe  it,  tlie  buyer  will  beat  down 
the  seller,  though  the  offer  is  basket  and  all  for  a  quarter ! 
Somelimes,  it  is  said,  that  there  is  more  basket  than  berries; 
but  even  if  there  is,  the  basket  ought  to  be  nearly  worth  that 
money. 

Between  the  trains  the  people  about  the  station  spend  their 
time  in  sorting  and  "deaconing"  the  fruit.  That  word  "deacon- 
ing" as  applied,  means  "putting  the  best  on  top,"  as  they  say  a 
certain  good  man  did  with  his  apples  up  in  New  Hampshire 
(some  more  slander,  no  doubt,  on  the  good  man),  but  these 
people  do  as  I  have  said  ;   I  have  seen  them  at  it.     The  baskets 


IKAI'l'ATO    STATKIN. 


offered  sometimes  show  trickery.  The  consequence  of  a  few 
such  operations  is  that  the  buyer  expects  to  be  cheated,  and  so 
gets  his  bargain  as  low  as  possible.  I  have  seen  fine  baskets  of 
fine  berries  bought  for  a  real,  and  even  for  a  dime. 

Thirteen  miles  below  the  strawberry  station  we  come  to  what 
may  be  called  the  "straw  hat"  station,  Salamanca;  a  pretty 
name   for  a   busy  place  of  about    fifteen    thousand  inhabitants. 


94 


Everywhere  along  the  way  hither,  and  all  about  the  city,  are 
cultivated  fields  and  lovely  gardens.  Salamanca  exports  kaolin 
and  white  clay ;  also  sells  large  quantities  of  leather  goods ;  but 
her  chief  article  of  commerce  is  the  straw  sombrero  so  univer- 
sally worn  by  men,  women,  and  children  of  the  lower  class 
throughout  the  country. 

Not  being  a  junction  point,  and  being  so  near  other  more  attrac- 
tive or  interesting  places,  Salamanca  is  skipped  by  the  great 
majority  of  tourists,  but  there  is  something  worth  seeing  there. 
The  avenues- between  cactus  hedges  are  fine,  and  the  gardens 
beautiful.  The  Church  of  San  Augustin  shows  on  its  altars  some 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  wood  carving  in  Mexico. 

But  don't  buy  your  sombrero  till  you  get  to  the  city  of  Mexico. 
You'll  see  a  really  fine  article  there,  a  really  "way  up  "  piece  of 
head  gear,  large  every  way,  wide  brimmed,  high  crowned,  with 
cord  and  tassel  of  silver  or  gold,  costing  all  the  way  from  five  to 
fifty  and  even  to  three  hundred  dollars  ! 

A  short  ride  brings  us  to  Celaya,  a  city  of  25,000  people. 
This  is  the  great  "candy"  town  of  Mexico.  Huyler  would  be 
nowhere,  in  Celaya.  His  sweets  are  no  more  dear  to  the  heart 
nor  more  sweet  to  the  lips  of  the  average  girl  than  those  of  Celaya 
to  the  sweet-toothed  seiiorita.  Indeed,  some  people,  who  have 
sampled  the  candies  of  many  countries,  say  that  the  dukes  of 
Celaya  are  "  the  best  in  the  world."  The  Celaya  dulces  are 
made  from  sugar  and  milk.  In  Puebla  we  shall  find  some  made 
from  white  sweet  potatoes,  in  San  Luis  Potosi  a  cactus  diilce, 
and  in  Vera  C'ruz  a  squash  candy.  For  my  part  I  must  say  that 
of  Mexican  candies,  "a  little  more  than  a  little  is  by  much  too 
much."  To  look  in  on  the  many  didcerias  one  would  think  that 
a  majority  of  the  population  is  in  the  candy  business,  and  in  fact 
so  it  is,  either  as  maker  or  buyer.  But  Celaya  is  a  busy  town, 
something  like  Leon  ;  it  has  bleacheries  and  factories  ;  here  are 
made  large  quantities  of  soap,  and  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods, 
and  of  the  reboso. 


95 


If  railroad  facilities  count  for  anything,  this  ought  to  become  a 
very  important  city,  for  the  National  crosses  the  Central  here. 
Celaya  is  the  commercial  centre  of  a  rich  agricultural  district, 
particularly  of  the  valley  of  the  Laja.  The  people  of  this  town 
are  evidently  aware  of  the  importance  of  good  roads  to  and  from 
Celaya.  They  have  built  and  maintained  a  long  and  expensive 
causeway  across  the  surrounding  lowlands,  which  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year  would  be  almost  impassable  without  this 
causeway.  If  not  as  impressive  as  the  aqueduct  at  Quer^taro, 
it  is  quite  as  important  in  its  own  way. 

Celaya  was  founded  in  1570  by  a  company  of  Biscayans,  con- 
sisting of  "  sixteen  married  men  with  their  wives  and  children, 
and  seventeen  young  bachelors."  They  chose  a  pretty  site  for 
their  town,  and  the  king,  Philip  IV.,  made  it  a  city  by  royal 
order  in  1655,  while  the  town  of  Guanajuato  had  to  wait  until 
1 741  for  the  honor.  The  Celayans  will  not  let  this  fact  be  for- 
gotten. 

The  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmen,  in  Celaya,  is  the  master- 
piece of  the  Michael  Angelo  of  Mexico,  Eduardo  Tresguerras, 
who  was  a  native  and  lifelong  resident  of  this  city.  He  was 
an  architect,  sculptor,  and  painter.  This  church,  containing 
some  of  his  most  celebrated  frescos,  is  220  feet  long,  55  feet 
wide,  and  69  feet  high.  It  is  not  an  old  church  (dating  only 
from  1803),  but  it  is  one  of  the  finest,  some  think  the  most  at- 
tractive, of  all  the  church  buildings  in  Mexico.  Other  churches 
in  Celaya  also  have  specimens  of  Tresguerras's  work.  The 
splendid  altars  of  the  San  Francisco  group  of  churches  and 
chapels,  and  also  those  of  the  church  of  the  Tercer  Orden, 
are  the  work  of  his  hand.  The  tower  of  San  Augustin,  which 
excites  the  admiration  of  all  visitors,  is  a  monument  to  his  skill, 
and  the  beautiful  chapel  of  Dolores  he  built  for  his  own  tomb. 
Whoever  wishes  to  see  the  best  specimens  of  native  architec- 
ture, sculpture,  and  painting  must  go  to  Celaya  and  study  the 
work  of  Eduardo  Tresguerras. 

96 


i 


Shortly  after  leaving  Celaya,  we  pass  out  of  the  state  of 
Guanajuato  and  enter  Quer(§taro,  one  of  the  smaller  divisions  of 
the  Republic,  but  a  state  that  has  made  a  lot  of  history.  It  is 
about  half  as  large  as  Massachusetts,  and  is  about  as  ])rominently 
connected  with  the  great  events  of  Mexico  as  the  old  Bay  State 
is  with  those  of  the  United  States.  In  Aztec  tradition  the  people 
of  this  region  were  spoken  of  as  noted  for  their  valor  and  for 
their  fidelity  to  their  vows.  They  had  a  goodly  land  ;  they  loved 
it  and  defended  it  in 
the  olden  time  and  no 
less  in  later  times. 
We  shall  learn  some- 
thing about  their  his- 
tory in  our  visit  to 
their  capital,  which 
bears  the  same  name 
as  the  state. 

"  Quer^taro  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting 
cities  of  Mexico." 

"  How  so  ?  "  asked 
the  Captain.  "It 
doesn't  seem  to  be  a 
very   energetic  town." 

"Energetic  !"  re- 
plied the  Major,  "that 
word  is  hardly  known 
in  Mexico.  This  place  has  much  of  history  connected  with  it, 
and  also  not  a  little  of  mystery.  This  'beautiful  valley  could  not 
fail  to  attract  any  one  who  wished  to  have  a  nice  place  to  live  in. 
Here  is  an  atmosphere  as  near  peifection  the  year  round  as  can  be 
found  anywhere.  Nature  could  do  no  more  for  any  region  than 
she  has  done  for  this,  except  to  furnish  plenty  of  water  on  the 
spot.     That  lack,  however,  could  be  supplied  by  the  people,  and 


97 


accordingly  Quer^taro  has  been  a  local  habitation,  and  has  had  a 
name  beyond  the  records  of  man.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  the  Otomites  in  1400,  and  upon  their  chosen  site 
has  grown  what  you  see,  and  much  that  has  disappeared  in  the 
course  of  five  centuries. 


"Cn:  curi  n;s  tradi.ion  belongs  to  tl-:e  early  day  of  this  town. 
It  is  a  kind  of  David  and  Goliath  affair,  or  perhaps  nearer  that 
of  the  Horatii  and  the  Curatii ;  and  it  has  also  some  of  the 
features  of  the  famous  story  of  Constantine's  march.  The  tradition 
states  that  a  native  cacique,  by  name  Fernando  de  Tapia,  had  a 
vocation  to  go  and  convert  these  people  to  Christianity.  He 
organized  an  army  and  took  along  with  his  soldiers  several 
priests  to  baptize  the  converts  whom  he  was  sure  to  secure. 

"  Coming  to  Queretaro  he  proposed  to  the  people  that  they 
should  select  champions  to  meet  an  equal  number  to  be  chosen 
by  himself,  and  promise    to  abide   by  the    results   of  the   fight 


98 


between  these  champions.  If  Fernando's  men  should  gain  the 
victory,  the  people  should  submit  to  baptism  and  abandon  the 
worship  of  their  Aztec  idols ;  if  the  people's  champions  won, 
Fernando  should  withdraw  his  forces  and  leave  Quert^taro  as  he 
found  it ;  this  was  the  agreement.  The  fight  raged  all  day. 
It  was  literally  a  hand-to-hand  conflict,  for  the  contestants  were, 
by  arrangement,  to  use  only  their  hands  and  their  feet.  Doubt- 
less there  were  '  garments  rolled  in  blood,'  for  cuffs  and  kicks 
can  draw  blood ;   the  people  cheered  their  champions  by  shouts, 


I 


t     e. 


r-i 


t--"=^S.-.:-< 


-4<- 


k 


and  prayers,  and  by  every  conceivable  demonstration  that  they 
could  make.  Suddenly  in  the  sky  above  appeared,  visible  to 
every  eye,  the  form  of  the  blessed  Santiago,  and  near  him  a  red 
cross.  This  vision  put  an  end  to  the  battle.  The  people  of 
Quer(^taro  yielded  and  begged  the  services  of  the  priests.  They 
erected  a  stone  cross  on  the  spot  where  the  fight  occurred,  and 
in  due  time  the  Church  of  the  Santa  Cruz  arose  in  its  ])lace. 
The  original   stone    cross    may    now   be    seen    in   this   church. 

99 


Quer^taro  has  been  noted  ever  since  for  the  number  and  the 
richness  of  its  churches.  You  should  be  there  on  a  Sunday 
morning  and  hear  their  bells.  You  would  feel  as  if  the  lonely 
Selkirk  on  his  island  in  the  sea  had  a  cause  for  gratitude  rather 
than  grief,  where  no  church-going  bell  he  could  hear." 

"  Why  ?  "  asked  the  Captain,  "  don't  you  like  to  hear  church 
bells?" 

"  Nothing  is  sweeter  to  the  ear,  my  boy,  than  those  bells 
which  call  the  people  to  worship,  if  they  only  call  musically  and 
sweetly.  It  has  always  struck  me  as  a  strange  thing  that  the 
people  of  Mexico,  who  seem  to  have  so  much  love  of  music, 
could  endure  the  discord  of  the  clanging  bells  on  their  churches. 
You'll  know  better  what  I  mean  after  you've  heard  them.  While 
we  are  speaking  of  churches,  let  me  say  that  the  church  and 
convent  of  Santa  Clara  here  was  founded  by  the  son  of  the 
afore-named  Fernando,  named  Diego.  This  cacique  had  an  only 
daughter  for  whom  he  was  very  anxious  to  provide ;  he  built  this 
convent  and  made  her  its  first  novice.  He  also  founded  the 
church  and  hospital  of  the  'Purisinia  Concepcion.'  " 

"  Did  you  say  he  was  an  Indian?" 

"Yes,  a  chief,  as  was  his  father;  but  the  Indians  were  given 
over  to  idolatry,  and  so  a  good  monk  made  them  an  image  to 
worship.  The  good  man  argued,  '  If  they  will  worship  an  image, 
let  them  have  a  good  one  to  worship.'  He  accordingly  con- 
structed a  nearly  life-size  image  of  the  Virgin  for  their  shrine. 
It  can  be  seen  in  its  costly  camarin  in  the  church  at  Pueblito, 
the  popular  name  of  the  little  hamlet  of  San  Francisco,  just 
west  of  Quer^taro." 

"This  is  a  pretty  place,  and  no  mistake,"  said  the  Captain 
as  they  came  upon  the  plaza.  "  Here  are  some  rare  plants,  and 
what  a  fine  fountain  !  " 

"  Yes,  pretty  it  is,  sure  enough.  The  plants  are  not  so  very 
rare,  however.  These  are  the  first  of  the  kind  you  have  seen  on 
the  plateau,  but  you  will  see  plenty  of  them  south  of  this  point. 


You'll  see  some  more  in  the  beautiful  gardens  which  we  shall 
visit;   especially  at  the  Hercules  mill  there  is  a  fine  display." 

"Mill  !  what  kind  of  a  mill?"  asked  the  Captain.  "We  have 
not  seen  any,  at  least  not  many  manuf^ictories  in  the  country  so 
fiir ;  a  few  flour  mills  and  a  few  cotton  factories  are  all  I  can 
recall,  except  the  various  ore  reduction  works." 

'•'  Quite  true,  Mexico  lacks  manufactories.  She  is  supplying 
*  a  long-felt  want '  as  rapidly  as  she  can,  but  there  are  some 
very  fine  establishments  now,  and  this  Hercules  mill  is  one 
of  the   finest  in  any  land.      It  is  well  worth  a  visit.     Beauty 


seems  to  be  a  partner,  though  a  silent  partner,  of  business  there. 
Statuary,  fountains,  parks,  flowers,  and  fruits  combine  to  instruct, 
refresh,  and  delight  operatives  and  visitors  alike  at  the  Hercules. 
Palms  and  banana  plants  make  the  gardens  look  like  a  section  of 
some  tropical  park.  But  the  high  walls,  with  loopholes  for 
muskets,  seem  to  indicate  that  once,  if  not  now,  this  peaceful 
scene  of  beauty  was  not  free  from  alarm,  and  prepared  for  war." 

"What  are  those  beautiful  arches?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"They  are  a  part  of  the  great  stone  aqueduct  by  which  the 


city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  mountains.  The  water  is 
brought  about  five  miles  across  the  plain.  There  are  nearly 
eighty  of  those  arches,  and  some  of  them  are  over  ninety  feet 
high.  The  aqueduct  is  a  great  piece  of  work.  It  is  not  so  long 
as  that  of  San  Cosme  at  the  capital,  which  has  nine  hundred 
arches,  but  its  height  makes  it  very  impressive.  The  city  owes 
this  luxury  chiefly  to  the  generosity  of  the  Marques  de  la  Villa 
del  Villar  de  la  Aguila  (pretty  name),  whose  statue  you  see  in 
the  main  plaza.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  plazas,  by  the  way, 
in  this  land  of  parks  and  gardens." 


"Well,  he  did  a  great  thing  for  the  people  and  deserves  a 
statue,"  said  the  Captain.  "A  much  better  use  of  his  money 
this  than  church  and  convent  building,  don't  you  think  so?" 

"Well,  I  think  these  people  must  think  so,  if  they  think  at  all. 
You'll  be  surprised,  as  you  go  farther,  at  the  amount  of  labor 
expended  by  the  people  in  '  packing '  water.  The  Aguador  you 
have  seen  already  in  abundance,  but  you'll  see  more  of  him  later 
on.  Yes,  the  Marques  is  greater  than  Cortez.  The  sun  does  its 
part,  but  the   Marques   has    enabled  Querc^taro  to  revel  in  the 


luxury  which  only  a  good  water  supply  can  render  possible.  The 
former  statue  was  shattered  by  a  cannon-ball  during  the  siege, 
but  this  finer  one  rightly  takes  its  place." 

"Siege!  what  siege?"  asked  the  Captain;  "has  there  ever 
been  war  here? " 

"  Certainly,  have  you  forgotten  so  soon  the  story  of  Santiago 
and  the  Cross?     The  Mexican  Horatii?" 

"Oh,  that  was  a  tradition,  you  said." 

"  Perhaps,  but  it  was  about  war,  though  it  was  only  a  fisti- 
cuff and  hoof  business,  a  kind  of  football  scrimmage,  with  no 
touch-down  for  the  team  from  Quer^taro.  This  place  witnessed 
the  downfall  of  an  empire.  Over  on  that  '  Hill  of  the  bells ' 
(Cerro  de  las  campanas),  east  of  the  city,  the  Emperor  Maxi- 
milian was  executed,  with  two  of  his  generals,  Miramon  and 
Mejia.  You  can  see  the  crosses  which  mark  the  spot  where 
they  met  death." 

"Tell  us  about  it,  please,"  said  the  Captain. 

"First  a  few  words  about  the  siege  of  1810.  Hidalgo  and  his 
associates,  who  were  getting  ready  to  strike  for  the  freedom  of 
Mexico  from  Spanish  rule,  had  many  friends  here  in  this  city 
which  has  always  been  known  as  one  of  the  most  conservative 
towns  in  the  country ;  a  church  town,  if  you  please.  When 
the  cause  of  Hidalgo  failed  for  the  time,  this  place  had  to  suffer 
for  its  disloyalty  to  the  king  and  its  loyalty  to  the  patriots. 

"The  latest  siege  occurred  in  1867.  Maximilian  and  his 
forces  were  shut  up  here,  and  Gen.  Escobedo  with  the  Liberal 
army  besieged  the  city.  On  the  19th  of  May,  the  Emperor  was 
captured,  and  the  crosses  on  yonder  hill  tell  you  the  result." 

"  But  I  want  to  know  about  the  war,  the  why  and  the  where- 
fore," said  the  Corporal.     "  Please  tell  us  about  that." 

"It  is  a  long  story,"  said  the  Captain.     "You  must  read  it." 

"  Oh,  I  think  I  can  make  a  short  story  of  it,"  said  the  Major ; 
"however,  it  is  well,  right  here  where  it  ended,  to  recall  the  main 
facts  about  the  Empire  of  Maximilian. 


"In  1 86 1,  the  Mexican  Congress  decreed  a  suspension  of 
payment  on  foreign  debts.  The  principal  creditors  were  Eng- 
land, France,  and  Spain.  These  three  nations  united  in  a 
hostile  demonstration  for  the  purpose  of  enforcing  a  repeal  of 
the  decree.  Mexican  agents  of  the  party  which  opposed  Juarez 
and  the  Liberals  urged  intervention,  and  the  foreign  forces  were 
sent  to  Vera  Cruz  in  January,  1862.  Commissioners  came  along 
with  the  troops,  and  an  agreement  was  made  with  Juarez  that 
when  satisfaction  was  obtained  the  forces  should  be  withdrawn. 
A  treaty  was  soon  made  and  approved  by  all  parties.  The  English 
and  Spanish  troops  returned  home.  But  France  withdrew 
approval  of  the  treaty,  kept  her  forces  in  Mexico,  and  sent 
others  to  re-enforce  them.  In  May,  1862,  the  French  forces 
marched  on  the  capital.  At  Puebla  they  were  held  in  check 
by  Gen.  Zaragoza,  and  by  this  repulse  President  Juarez  was 
enabled  to  stay  in  the  capital  a  year  longer,  in  which  time  his 
cause  was  greatly  strengthened.  But  Puebla  fell  in  May,  1863, 
and  Juarez  and  his  cabinet  were  compelled  to  leave  the  city  of 
Mexico.  In  June,  1863,  the  French  took  possession  of  it. 
Juarez  had  his  capital  wherever  night  overtook  him ;  he 
tramped  all  over  the  country  with  the  government.  Vera  Cruz, 
Guadalajara,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Paso  del  Norte,  and  other  places 
were  at  various  times  '  the  capital '  in  Juarez's  time.  On  the  i6th 
of  July,  1863,  a  convention  of  the  leaders  of  the  Conservative 
or  Church  party  declared  that  Mexico  should  be  governed  by  a 
hereditary  monarch,  and  that  the  ruler  should  be  a  Catholic. 
They  offered  the  crown  to  Archduke  Maximilian,  brother  of  the 
Emperor  of  Austria.  Maximilian  accepted  the  crown.  He 
required  two  things  as  conditions :  first,  an  election  by  the 
people  of  Mexico ;  second,  that  Napoleon  III.  should  support 
him  by  military  force  so  long  as  such  force  was  necessary.  In 
June,  1864,  Maximilian  and  Carlotta  his  wife  (a  daughter  of  the 
king  of  Belgium)  were  crowned  Emperor  and  Empress  of 
Mexico.     Their  reign  was  short.     The  Emperor  soon  found  that 


104 


OLD    SPRTXc;,    NEAR    (JUKKI.  I ARO. 


his  policy  of  reconciliation  pleased  neither  party.  Bad  ad- 
visers made  trouble,  and  worst  of  all  for  him  the  United  States 
notified  Emperor  Napoleon  III.  that  there  was  no  occasion  and  no 
room  on  the  continent  of  North  America  for  a  monarchy.  This 
was  practically  a  notice  to  quit,  and  Napoleon  so  understood  it. 
He  withdrew  the  French  troops,  and  Maximilian  was  left  to  his  fate. 
He  made  a  feeble  defence,  but  was  captured  here,  as  I  have  said. 
Efforts  were  made  to  save  his  life,  but  it  seemed  to  be  a  political 
necessity  that  he  should  be  executed.  Accordingly  he  was  shot 
June  19,  1867." 

"  A  sad  end  of  the  three-year  visit  to  Mexico,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"Yes,  very  sad.  Poor  Carlotta  lost  her  reason;  her  husband 
lost  his  crown  and  his  life.  A  knowledge  of  this  sad  story  will 
make  the  visit  to  that  dreary  hill  one  of  interest. 

"In  the  town  are  various  mementoes  of  the  Emperor.     You  can 
see  the  table  on  which  the  officials  signed  the  death    sentence  ; 
the  stools  on  which  Miramon  and  Mejia  sat  at  the  trial  in  the 
Yturbide  Theatre  :    there  would  have 
been  a  third  had  the  Emperor  been 
present,  but  he  was  ill  and  did 
not   attend,   except   by  repre- 
sentative.    The  rough  coffin  in 
which   Maximilian's   body  was 
brought  from  the  place  of  exe- 
cution can  also  be  seen  here.    The 
room  in  the   Convent  of  the  Capu- 

cines  in  which  the  Emperor  was  confined  can  be  visited,  though 
now  it  is  a  part  of  a  private  house.  A  sight  of  these  mournful 
relics  will  add  a  new  interest  to  those  of  the  Emperor  seen  in 
the  museum  at  the  capital,  which  remind  you  of  his  palmy  days, 
if  he  had  any,  in  Mexico.  There  you  will  see  the  gold  and 
silver  service  of  his  palace,  his  state  carriage,  and  other  insignia 
of  royalty.     As  you  drive  on  the  paseo  you  will  think  of  Carlotta 


105 


and  her  husband,  who  planned  and  executed  the  construction 
of  that  famous  thoroughfare,  but'vvhen  you  look  from  the  heights 
of  Chapultepec  towards  this  lonely  plain  of  Quer(itaro,  you  will 
think  of  the  beginning  and  of  the  end  of  Maximilian  in  Mexico. 
Su  transit glo7ia  mundiy 

"  Indeed,  it  is  an  interesting  story,"   said  the  boys. 

"  Yes,  but  I  have  only  outlined  it ;  you  must  read  it  up  when 
you  get  home.  It  is  a  valuable  episode  in  the  history,  not  only 
of  a  country,  but  of  a  continent.  It  teaches  the  rulers  of  Europe 
and  of  the  Old  World  that  this  side  of  the  globe  is  reserved  for 
republics,  and  that  no  autocrats  or  monarchs  need  apply." 

"I  wonder  what  Napoleon  III.  thought  when  he  heard  the 
news  from  Washington,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  I  think  he  was  nearly  as  much  surprised  as  when  he  heard 
the  news  from  Metz.  You  know  the  old  joke  :  'He  went  out  to 
see  Dan,  and  saw  William.'  He  came  here  to  see  Mexico,  and 
saw  Sewaid.  The  United  States  may  have  done  wrong  to 
Mexico  in  1847,  but  in  1867  Mexico  had  great  cause  for 
gratitude  to  Uncle  Sam,  and  had  proof  that  he  is  a  friendly 
neighbor." 

"  Well,  that's  enough  of  history.  Major ;  all  interesting  of 
course,  but  I  want  to  look  into  this  opal  business  a  little,"  said 
the  Captain. 

"Of  course  this  is  the  opal  station  just  as  Irapuato  is  the  straw- 
berry statijn,  and  Celaya  is  the  candy  station.  Somebody  has 
said  that  in  Queretaro  'it  is  always  about  A.  D.  1640,  and  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.'  Perhaps  that  is  so,  but  it  is  a  lively 
town  in  the  matter  of  opals.  In  the  early  dawn  and  in  the 
dusky  evening,  by  the  noonday  glare  and  by  the  flickering  torch 
at  night,  the  opal  seller  welcomes  the  coming  guest  to  Queretaro. 
But  the  best  time  to  purchase  is  the  moment  of  departure  of  the 
train.  When  the  conductor  says,  'Vamonos,'  then  doth  the  opal 
man  know  that  it  is  'now  or  never'  with  the  passenger  who  has 
hesitated  and  will  soon  be  lost." 


106 


"Some  of  the  stones  are  very  beautiful,  are  they  not?"  said 
the  Captain,  "and  very  cheap?" 

"Yes,  they  are  both,  but  when  a  man  is  buying  jewels  he 
wants  plenty  of  time  to  examine  them.  In  this  case  he  will  sel- 
dom find  a  jewel  at  the  station.  It  is  doubtless  a  fact  that  once 
in  a  while  there  is  a  fine  stone  offered  for  sale  very  cheap.  It 
may  have  been  stolen,  but  probably  what  is  said  to  be  muy 
bon'ita  is  not  so  bonita,  and  may  prove  very  defective." 

"Well,  I  saw  some  as  we  came  along,"  said  the  Captain, 
"  that  looked  fine  and  were  certainly  cheap,  even  if  they  were  a 
little  defective." 

"No  doubt,"  answered  the  Major;  "I  have  often  been  sur- 
prised at  the  small  price  asked  for  such  good-looking  stones. 
They  were  cheap,  any  way  you  could  fix  it.  If  they  were  only 
pieces  of  brick  polished,  or  a  common  pebble  doctored  to  refract 
light,  they  would  be  cheap  at  the  money  ;  the  work  on  them 
must  be  worth  more  than  is  asked  for  them.  I  once  saw  a 
hundred  opals  sold  for  five  dollars,  but  I  also  once  saw  a  single 
opal  sold  for  five  hundred  dollars.  So  you  see  there  are  opals 
and  opals,  as  well  as  buyers  and  buyers." 

"  If  I  can  find  a  good  bargain  I  am  going  to  take  it,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"You'll  find  it,  my  boy  ;  it  is  here  and  you  needn't  look  for  it, 
it  will  come  to  you.  There  it  comes  now,"  said  the  Major,  as 
he  saw  a  seller  siding  up  to  the  party,  and  preparing  to  open  his 
little  black-paper  parcel.  And  sure  enough  the  Captain  and  his 
money  were  soon  parted  ;  the  Mexican  felt  in  another  pocket 
for  another  bargain  for  the  Corporal,  a  better  bargain  he  said 
than  had  just  been  taken  !  The  little  Corporal  evidently  thought 
it  good  enough  for  him,  and  some  more  money  was  exchanged 
for  opals  right  then  and  there. 

The  Major,  an  old  bird,  was  evidently  not  approachable.  The 
vender  scarcely  ventured  to  try  hmi  as  a  purchaser.  It  was 
clear  to  the  Mexican  that  that  man  "  had  been  there  before." 


107 


The  Major  heard  the  story  of  the  seller  to  the  boys,  and  after- 
ward told  them  that  the  transaction  recalled  Aldrich's  experience 
at  the  fair  at  Nijnii-Novgorod,  where  the  seller  tells  a  wonderful 
story  of  a  jewel  which  he  was  offering  for  three  hundred  rubles. 
He  said  a  Jew  had  bought  it ; 

"  But  bought  it  cheap  to  sell  it  dear, 
The  ways  of  trade  are  cruel. 

"  But  I  —  be  Allah's  all  the  praise  !  — 
Such  avarice  I  scoff  it ! 
If  I  buy  cheap,  why,  I  sell  cheap, 
Content  with  modest  profit. 

"  This  ring,  such  chasing,  look  milord. 
What  workmanship  !   by  Heaven, 
The  price  I  name  you  makes  the  thing 
As  if  the  thing  were  given  ! 

"  A  stone  without  a  flaw,  a  queen 
Might  not  disdain  to  wear  it, 
Three  hundred  xvihXts  buys  the  stone, 
No  kopeck  less,  I  swear  it. 

"  Thus  Hassan,  holding  up  the  ring 
To  me  no  eager  buyer, 
A  hundred  rubles  was  not  much 
To  pay  so  sweet  a  liar." 


lo8 


Leaving  Queretaro,  we  begin  to  rise  from  the  Bajio,  but  stili 
run  for  thirty  miles  or  more  through  the  same  rich  agricultural 
country  to  San  Juan  del  Rio,  a  thriving  city  of  about  20,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  an  important  point  with  respect  to  business,, 
being  the  distributing  centre  of  a  productive  district,  but  it  does 
not  offer  much  to  the  tourist.  Just  below  this  station  we  pass 
into  the  state  of  Hidalgo  and  ascend  the  great  plain  of  Cazadero, 
thus  named  from  the  fact  that  here  took  place  the  great  hunt 
with  which  the  natives  honored  the  first  Spanish  viceroy, 
Mcndoza,  in  1540,  showing  their  good-will  and  welcome 
to   the   new  ,\.  ruler  m  this  characteristic  way. 

\t  the  station  Cazadero  we  are 

^  ,       ., .  more  than  eleven  hundred  feet 

^Jv^**        ,  \k:   '^''^  h        .     ^ijo^.g    s^n   Juan   del    Rio. 

Ihe  scenery  about  here 
IS    very    fine,    including 


I,A    CAiNADA,    NEAR    IIKKCII.KS. 

valley,  plain,  and  mountain.  Frequent  haciendas  dot  the  wide 
landscape,  and  show  that  farms  now  occupy  the  territory  of  the 
great  hunt  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago. 

And  now  the  climb  begins  in  good  earnest.  In  the  next 
twenty-five  miles  we  rise  800  feet,  and  at  Lena  we  reach  the 
highest  point  on  the  whole  line,  an  altitude  of  8,133  feet.  The 
scenery  now  becomes  bolder  and  more  impressive,  and  for  the 


109 


next  twenty-five  miles  we  enjoy  some  of  the  finest  views  on  the 
route.  Our  descent  begins  at  once,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  and 
a  half  we  are  at  Tula,  nearly  1,500  feet  below  Lena,  but  also  700 
feet  lower  than  the  city  of  Mexico,  fifty  miles  away.  The  ride 
down  the  mountain  is  a  succession  of  surprises.  The  greater 
quantity  of  semi-tropical  vegetation  that  appears  here  makes  a 


VIEW    KROM   THE   SUMMIT. 


most  agreeable  change  from  the  comparatively  barren  region 
above,  and  awakens  great  expectations  as  to  the  renowned 
country  below  and  beyond.  We  know  that  here  we  are  on  the 
hills  over  which  the  mysterious  Toltecs  came  into  the  valley  of 
Tula  from  the  north  in  the  year  648  !     We  have  come  over  the 


Santa  F6  trail  in  the  States,  and  now  we  are  on  the  trail  of  the 
Toltecs  in  Mexico,  close  to  their  camp  and  capital. 

Talk  about  old  Mexico  !  When  you  get  to  Tula,  you  havt 
reached  a  place  which  was  an  important  town  more  than  a 
thousand  years  ago ;  that  is,  seven  or  eight  hundred  years  before 
the  time  of  Cortes. 

Tula  was  the  capital  of  Mexico  until  A.  D.  1325.  The  Toltecs 
founded  it,  and  the  Chichimec  tribe  conquered  it  four  hundred 
years  afterward,  or  about  A.  D.  1200.  The  casus  grandes,  im- 
mense columns  and  images  found  in  ruins  buried  and  unburied 
at  various  places  in  and  near  the  present  Tula,  indicate  its  former 
greatness  and  importance.  For  an  extensive  account  of  explo- 
rations here  one  must  read  Charnay  ;  but  one  can,  in  a  day's 
excursion  from  the  city  of  Mexico,  visit  the  sites  of  some  of  the 
ancient  temples  and  palaces.  He  can  see  some  broken  columns 
in  the  plaza ;  an  old  Toltec  baptismal  font  in  the  fort-like 
looking  church  of  San  Jos^  ;  and  a  bridge,  across  the  Tula  River, 
which  is  one  of  the  oldest  structures  of  the  kind  on  the  continent. 
The  old  church,  in  the  great  square,  is  unique.  It  was  built  in 
1553,  and  evidently  served  two  purposes,  one  of  worship,  the 
other  of  protection  from  hostile  tribes.  The  walls  are  seven  feet 
thick.  The  building  is  about  two  hundred  feet  in  length,  forty- 
one  in  width,  and  eighty-two  in  height,  with  a  tower  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  The  cloister  is  now  a  stable 
for  the  horses  of  the  rural  guard,  and  the  pictures  on  the  walls, 
which  were  once  the  delight  of  devout  worshippers,  still  present 
to  the  view  of  the  soldiers  (and  visitors)  the  worthy  deeds  of 
the  good  San  Francisco.  The  atrium  before  the  church  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  turreted  wall,  which  gives  the  whole  establish- 
ment the  appearance  of  a  strong  fortification. 

Tula  is  a  quaint  place.  Most  of  it  is  of  the  average,  not  to 
say  ancient,  Mexican  kind,  but  modern  notions  have  made  a 
show  also.  There  is  a  very  pretty  little  hotel  called  The 
Montezuma,  which   offers   hospitality  to  the  visitor  for  a  small 


consideration.  Modern  lime-kilns,  on  the  northern  suburb  of 
the  village,  make  business  as  well  as  lime.  A  visit  to  the  plaza 
and  market  place  is  interesting,  and  a  walk  through  the  paseo, 
under  great  green  arches,  to  the  river  and  the  old  bridge,  on  the 
way  to  the  great  ruins,  can  never  be  forgotten.  The  scenery 
all  about  Tula  is  fine.  No  one  who  is  interested  in  the  Mexico 
that  is  "older  than  Egypt"  can  afford  to  slight  Tula,  and  the 
lover  of  beautiful  scenery  will  find  satisfaction  in  a  visit. 

Crossing   the  little    market  place   near   the    plaza,  the    party 
turned  into  the  highway  to  Mexico  which  leads  out  of  the  village 


by  a  wide  causeway  shaded  by  immense  trees,  and  came  to  the 
old  bridge  over  Tula  River. 

"This  is  the  finest  bit  of  scenery  we  have  looked  at,"  said  the 
Captain.  "  It  is  just  perfect,  so  much  foliage,  such  green  fields, 
and  then  the  vines,  and  the  flowers,  and  the  river  ! " 

"You  can  find  no  prettier  landscape  than  this  anywhere,"  said 
the  Major.  "On  the  Lerma  there  are  bits  Mke  it,  but  none 
prettier.  I  don't  wonder  that  the  Toltecs  settled  here,  or  that 
their  successors  and  heirs  made  their  capital  here." 

"  And  this  river?  "  asked  the  Corporal,  "does  it  run  into  the 
Pacific?" 


"  No,  it  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  through  the  river 
Panuco,  which  enters  the  gulf  at  Tampico.  Speaking  of  water 
reminds  me  of  drink,"  continued  the  Major;  "  and  thinking 
of  drink  in  Mexico  reminds  me  of  pulque^ 

"  Oh,  pulque  !  yes  we  must  know  about  that,  I've  heard  of  it," 
said  the  Corporal.     "That  is  the  national  tipple,  isn't  it  ?  " 

"No,  not  that,  they  don't  tipple  it,  they  pour  it  down,"  an- 
swered the  Major.  "  What  beer  is  to  the  German,  pulque  is  to 
the  Mexican.  This  is  a  good 
place  to  talk  about  it,  for  right 
here  in  Tula  pulque  was  dis- 
covered or  invented.  Here  it 
became  a  beverage  of  royalty, 
and  at  the  same  time  it  became 
a  torpedo,  which  blew  up  the 
kingdom  of  which  Tula  was  the 
capital." 

"  Why,  how  romantic  !  Tell 
us  about  it." 

"  Well,  first  I'll  tell  you  what 
it  is,  and  then  the  story  of  the 
fall  of  the  Toltec  Empire. 

"There  is  a  wonderful  plant 
here  in  Mexico  called  the  mag- 
uey. We  call  it  in  general  'the 
century  plant.'  It  is  said  that 
there    are   thirty-three  varieties    i.  ^' 

of  the  plant  on  these  high  plateaus,  of  which  it  is  a  native 
flourishes  best  at  an  elevation  of  about  seven  thousand  feet. 
You'll  see  miles  of  maguey  fields  east  of  us  here,  and  east  of  the 
capital  as  you  go  to  Vera  Cruz  or  Puebla." 

"Is  it  really  a  century  plant?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"  No,  it  is  not.  The  average  life  of  the  maguey  is,  perhaps, 
twelve  years.      In  its  enormous  leaves,  often  eight  or  ten  feet 


Jt 


113 


long,  a  foot  wide,  and  half  a  foot  thick,  it  stores  its  juices  for 
ten  or  twelve  years,  and  finally  produces  its  flower  and  dies. 
This  flowering  is  prevented  by  cutting  out  the  heart  and  stem 
of  the  plant.  The  reservoir  thus  formed  at  the  base  of  the  great 
leaves  now  receives  their  sap,  and  this  sap  is  gathered  by  the  In- 
dians. It  is  sweet,  and  hence  is  called  agua  miel  (honey-water). 
After  a  process  of  fermentation  for  twenty-four  hours  it  is  pulque, 
and  twenty-four  hours  after  that  it  is  swiliy 

"How  much  of  this  sap  will  a  plant  yield?" 

An  astonishing  quantity.  From  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and 
fifty  gallons  !  " 

"Gallons  !    you  mean  quarts,  Major." 

"  No,  gallons  !  The  maguey  is  no  little  maple-tree.  A  good 
plant  yields  twelve  pints  a  day  for  two  or  three  months  :  you 
can  figure  that  up.  Pulque  making  (and  drinking)  is  an  enor- 
mous business ;  the  city  of  Mexico  alone  consumes  one  hundred 
thousand  pints  every  day  in  the  year.  In  this  little  state  of  Hi- 
dalgo the  maguey  haciendas  are  valued  at  ^8,000,000." 

"  Well,  Major,  while  you  are  talking  about  drinks,  tell  us  about 
those  others,  wnv^?/and  tequila,'''  said  the  Captain. 

"  Pulque  is  the  fermented  juice  of  the  largest  maguey.  Mes- 
cal is  a  very  fiery  and  intoxicating  liquor  obtained  by  distillation 
from  the  root  and  central  part  of  another  and  smaller  variety  of 
the  plant.  Tequila  is  simply  a  brand  of  mescal.  A  famous 
hacienda  named  Tequila  produces  the  best,  and  all  mescal  is 
called  tequila,  just  as  all  cigars  are  called  Havanas.  Now,  about 
the  discovery  of  pulque,  and  the  dire  disaster  which  followed  ; 
it  is  something  like  Charles  Lamb's  story  of  the  discovery  of 
roast  pig.     Prepare  for  tough  names. 

"  There  was  once  a  Toltec  chief  named  Tepaulcatzin.  He 
lived  and  died  in  ten  hundred  and  something.  At  the  court  of 
this  chief,  here  in  Tula,  was  a  nobleman  named  Papantzin.  He 
was  the  father  of  pulque  as  well  as  of  a  very  beautiful  daughter 
named  Xochitl,  called  the  '  Flower  of  Tula.'     To  the  monarch 

114 


he  sent  a  sample  of  the  new  beverage  with  his  compUments,  by 
the  hand  of  his  daughter.  The  chief  was  dehghted  with  the 
drink  and  with  the  daughter,  to  say  nothing  of  the  compUments. 
He  asked  the  maiden  to  make  her  home  at  the  palace,  and  she 
returned  not  to  papa  Papantzin,  who  mourned  for  a  while,  but 
afterwards  became  reconciled,  and  likewise  became  the  grand- 
father of  a  prince,  who  in  time  took  the  throne  of  the  Toltecs. 
Mrs.  Tepaulcatzin  didn't  like  to  see  the  son  of  the  Flower  of 
Tula  take  the  throne  away  from  her  own  boy,  and  there  was  a 
family  row,  which  resulted  at  last  in  the  downfall  of  the  Toltec 
tribe." 

"And  here  is  where  pulque  and  the  row  began?  " 

"  Right  here ;  perhaps 
the  pretty  girl  passed  over 
this  very  path  on  her  way 
to  the  palace  with  her  gift. 
You'll  see  a  beautiful  pic- 
ture of  the  great  event  of 
the  presentation  in  the  art 
gallery  at  the  capital." 

"Where  is  that  train 

from,  the  one  now  cross-     '  '   "  

ing  the  bridge  ? "  ''  .^i.^ 

"That  is  from  Pachuca,  a  great  inmiiig  town  in  this  state, 
fort)'- three  miles  east  of  Tula.  This  is  the  junction  point,  and 
we  may  stop  here  again  on  our  way  to  that  city.  We  are  only 
fifty  miles  now  from  the  capital,  but  we  must  on  the  way 
down,  or  up  rather,  talk  about  and  look  at  a  great  piece  of 
work  which  has  no  parallel  in  the  history  of  civilization,  —  the 
cut  or  canal  of  Nochistongo.  This  is  an  open  cut  more  than 
twelve  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  depth  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet,  and  an  average  width  of  four  hundred  feet. 
The  work  is  said  to  have  cost  many  thousand  lives  and  eighteen 
million  dollars ;    but  it  is  a  failure,  so  far  as  its  main  purpose  is 


concerned.  It  was  intended  to  save  the  city  of  Mexico  from 
inundation.  Tiie  capital  occupies  ground  only  six  feet  higher 
than  the  lowest  part  of  the  valley.  Lake  Texcoco,  in  its  nor- 
mal condition,  is  lower  than  the  city,  but  any  flood  that  raises 
the  water  in  Texcoco  more  than  six  feet  endangers  the  city. 
There  are  five  other  lakes  in  the  valley,  the  highest  of  which 
is  Lake  Zumpango,  situated  east  of  this  cut.  The  river  Cuatit- 
lan  empties  into  Zumpango.  Engineers  believed  that  if  the 
course  of  this  river  were  turned  from  the  lake  into  the  Tula, 
the  city  would  be  safe,  and  this  canal  was  made  as  a  pas- 
sageway for  the  waters  of  the  Cuatitlan.  The  river  does  not 
now  threaten  the  city,  but  the  heavy  rains  in  this  region  often 
alarm  the  people  by  raising  Texcoco  nearly  to  the  danger  line, 
and  it  has  been  proved  that  safety  requires  better  provision 
for  drainage." 

"  Have  floods  ever  occurred  in  the  city?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Several  times.  Once  the  city  was  a  veritable  Venice  for 
five  years  !  all  communication  was  by  boats.  That  time  was 
long  ago,  between  the  years  1629  and  1634.  Many  houses 
collapsed,  and  thousands  of  people  were  drowned.  The  king  of 
Spain  sent  orders  to  remove  the  city  to  higher  ground  at 
Tacubaya,  but  the  orders  were  not  carried  out.  The  govern- 
ment at  various  times,  during  the  last  two  hundred  years,  has 
attempted  to  provide  drainage  for  the  valley  and  for  the  city, 
but  hitherto  without  success.  A  work  is  now  in  progress,  how- 
ever, which,  when  completed,  will  render  further  trouble  from 
water  in  the  city  very  nearly  impossible.  A  canal  thirty  miles 
long,  twenty-six  feet  wide,  and  twenty  feet  below  the  main 
square,  is  to  extend  to  Lake  Zumpango,  from  which  the  waters, 
by  a  tunnel  seven  miles,  long,  will  be  carried  out  of  the  valley 
into  the  ravine  of  Tequizquiac.  This  great  work  will  be  com- 
pleted in  1894." 

The  Mexican  Central  Railway  track  runs  through  the  cut  of 
Nochistongo  about  fifty  feet  above  the  stream,  and  a  good  view 

116 


(X. 


ilV 


iW' 


'•<^ 


of  the  canon  m^y  be  obtained  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
south-bound  train.  A  pleasant  excursion  to  this  vicinity  can  be 
made  by  going  out  on  the  morning,  and  returning  on  the  even- 
ing train.  The  excursionist,  however,  should  not  forget  to 
take  along  a  lunch,  as  the  Hotel  de  Nochistongo  is  a  veritable 
"Hotel  de  No  Hay." 


^^^j^    ^ 


117 


Yll. 


"A  thousand  years  scarce  serve  to  form  a  state: 
An  hour  may  lay  it  in  the  dust." 

Childe  HaroliVs  Pilgrimage. 

"The  use  of  traveUing  is  to  regulate  the  imagination  by  reality,  and  in- 
stead of  thinking  how  things  may  be,  to  see  them  as  they  are." 

Dr.  Johnson. 

BEFORE  we  reach  the  city,  where  our  attention  will 
be  absorbed  by  the  scenes  immediately  about  us,  it 
will  be  well  to  get  a  good  idea  of  the  Valley  of 
V  Mexico.  The  common  conception  of  a  valley  is 
r  not  the  correct  one  for  this  region.  The  Valley  of 
Mexico  is  a  basin  about  seventy  miles 
in  length  and  forty- five 
miles  in  width,  meas- 
^j^^-iri-wigv^S^S^  ured  through  the  ex- 
tremities.  It  extends 
from  Pachuca  on  the 
northeast  to  the  mountains 
south  of  Lake  Chalco,  and 
from  the  Sierra  Nevada  range  on 
the  east  to  the  Sierra  de  las  Cruces  range  on  the  west.  This 
valley  has  an  area  of  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  square  miles, 
about  a  fourth  greater  than  the  State  of  Rhode  Island.  It  is 
divided  nearly  in  halves  by  a  low  range  of  mountains.  In  the 
northern  half  are  three  small  lakes  and  scores  of  small  villages, 
but  no  large  towns  except  Pachuca.  In  the  southern  half  are 
three  large  lakes,  many  large  villages,  and  the  city  of  Mexico. 


ii8 


The  lowest  portion  of  the  basin  is  Lake  Texcoco,  which  is  only 
six  feel  below  the  level  of  the  city.  The  bottom  of  the  valley 
has  an  elevation  of  7,400  feet,  while  the  highest  point  on  the 
sides  is  about  17,777  feet  above  the  sea.  We  enter  the  northern 
half  of  the  valley  through  the  cut  of  Nochistongo,  and  the 
southern  half  through  an  opening  on  the  western  side  of  Sierra 
Guadalupe.  The  view  from  Chapultepec,  or  from  the  Cathedral 
towers,  or  from  any  eminence  south  of  the  city,  commonly 
spoken  of  as  "a.  view  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,"  includes  in  fact 
only  a  part  of  this  southern  half,  or  an  area  of  perhaps  one  hun- 
dred square  miles.  At  our  feet  is  the  city,  a  little  beyond  are 
the  lakes,  a  little  farther  off  many  cerros  or 
hills  from  two  hundred  to  seven  hundred  feet 
high,  beyond  these  are  higher  broken  moun- 
tains, and  around  the  whole  enclosure,  contain- 
ing city,  lakes,  towns,  hundreds  of  hamlets, 
scores  of  these  lesser  mountains,  rise  the  far-away 
ranges,  the  two  highest  points  of  which  are  covered 
with  perpetual  snow.  This  is  the  view  of  which 
Humboldt  says:  "There  can  be  no  richer, 
no  more  varied  spectacle  than  that  which 
the  Valley  of  Mexico  presents  on  a  beautiful 
morning,  when  the  heavens  are  clear  and  of 
that  turquoise  blue  which  is  so  peculiar  to 
the  dry  and  thin  atmosphere  of  high  moun- 
tains." But  it  is  well  to  know  and  to  remember  that  the  Valley 
of  Mexico  is  a  vastly  larger  region  than  can  be  seen  from  any 
point  either  within  or  without  it. 

In  this  valley  we  are  in  the  earhest  home  of  man  on  this  con- 
tinent. To  say  nothing  of  traditions  about  the  Ulmeca,  we  have 
accounts  of  the  settlement  here  of  the  Chichimecs  in  A.  D.  635. 
A  hundred  years  after  that  the  Toltecs  came,  and  these  were 
succeeded  by  the  Aztecs  in  A.  D.  890.  Their  name  for  the  re- 
gion was  Anahuac,  meaning  "  the  place  of  water." 

119 


This  is  the  proper  place  to  array  some  facts  concerning  the  in- 
habitants of  the  country  in  general,  and  concerning  the  people  of 
the  Valley  of  Mexico  in  particular.  Mexico  has  a  population  of 
nearly  12,000,000.  Of  this  number  about  }<)  per  cent  is  Euro- 
pean, fully  38  per  cent  is  Indian  and  43  per  cent  a  mixed  race,  a 
composite  of  Indian  and  white  (Mestizos),  of  Indian  and  black 
(Zambos),  and  of  black  and  white  (Mulatos)  ;  these  last  found 
mostly  on  the  coast.  There  are  no  slaves  in  Mexico  :  slavery 
was  abolished  in  1829.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  fully 
2,000,000    Aztecs   and  about   1,500,000   of  the    Otomites  and 


Zapotecs  now  living 
The  famous  Presi- 
was  a  full- blood  Za- 
the  ancestors  of 


in  the  Republic. 

dent  Benito  Juarez 

potec,  and  one  of 

i  President  Diaz  is  of 


STREET 
MERCHANTS. 


the  same  tribe.  The  Aztec  language  is  still  spoken,  as  is  also 
the  Zapotec ;  and  while  the  Spanish  is  the  prevailing  language, 
there  are  4,000,000  Mexicans  (one  third  of  the  population)  who 
neither  use  nor  understand  it.  Of  the  10,000  foreigners  settled 
in  Mexico,  5,000  are  Spaniards,  and  the  other  half  is  composed 
of  Frenchmen,  Englishmen,  Germans,  Americans,  and  Italians. 
Only  2,044  foreigners  have  been  naturalized.     There  are  about 


i,ooo  Chinese  in  the  country.  Everybody  who  can  afford  to 
buy,  borrow,  or  steal  one,  "packs"  a  pistol,  but  the  ratio  of 
criminals  is  not  large.  Seventy-five  per  cent  of  the  criminals 
arrested  cannot  read.  The  chief  occupations  of  the  natives  are 
farming,  mining,  stock  raising,  fishing,  and  small  trade.  For- 
eigners do  most  of  the  banking  and  railroading  of  Mexico. 
Having  spoken  of  the  people  of  the  country  in  general,  we  may 
answer  the  question :  What  about  the  people  of  this  most 
favored  portion  of  the  Republic?  At  the  capital  city,  containing 
a  population  of  330,000,  are  the  best  schools  ii 
the  Republic,  and  one  may  suppose  that  the 
people  of  the  Federal  District,  composing 
(with  the  city)  a  population  of  about  half 
a  million,  would  be  much  higher  in  edu- 
cation than  those  of  any  other  section. 

The  following  figures,  taken  from  a 
late  census,  tell  their  own  story,  and 
the  reader  can  from  them  draw  his 
own  conclusions.  The  exact  population 
of  the  Federal  District  in  1889  was 
451,246  (214,544  men  and  236,702 
women).  Of  this  population,  437,860 
were  Catholics.  Only  162,000  are  able 
to  read  and  write  :  of  these  7,000  are 
foreigners;  145,000  are  recorded  as 
having  no  occupation ;  91,000  are  reg- 
istered as  scholars  and  students ;  74,000  as  servants  and  la- 
borers;  67,800  as  artisans;  22,000  merchants  and  clerks; 
8,500  soldiers  and  sailors;  and  7,500  as  government  employ<^s. 
It  will  be  seen  by  these  figures  that  there  is  a  great  work  for 
the  schoolmaster  to  do.  More  schools  and  more  wage-giving 
work  are  the  two  things  most  needed  now  in  Mexico. 

As  we  approach  the  city,  Aztec  names  appear  on  the  stations. 
Huehuetoca,  Teoloyucan,  Tlalneixintla,  how  strange  they  seem  ! 


BROOM   SELLER. 


121 


From  Huehuetoca  on  the  left  we  see  for  the  first  time  the  glistening 
peaks  of  the  volcanoes.  The  garden  spot  of  the  valley  is  south 
and  west  of  the  city,  but  we  see  about  us  here  every  sign  of 
fertility,  and  evidence  of  thrift ;  every  inch  of  ground  is  utilized 
for  grain  or  garden  or  grazing.  Evidently  we  are  near  a  market, 
for  the  roads  are  alive  with  natives  carrying  their  packs  of 
vegetables,  fruits,  fowls,  wood,  hay,  and  flowers,  somewhere 
beyond  ;  they  are  "going to  market."  Soon  we  see  hundreds  of 
domes  and  towers ;  we  cross  a  few  straggling  streets  and  enter 


f 


the  capital  at  its  northwest  corner.  "  The  stranger  within  the 
gates"  is  not  within  massive  walls,  but  he  is  within  walls  of  water, 
for  there  is  a  moat  around  the  city,  and  where  the  country  roads 
cross  this  canal  to  enter  the  city  are  the  gariias  (gates)  estab- 
lished for  customs  purposes. 

Let  us  look  about  us,  and  see  the  new  before  we  go  into  the 
city  to  study  the  old.  The  fine  three-story  brick  building,  in 
which  are  the  general  offices  of  the   Mexican  Central  Railway 


Company,  contrasts  curiously  with  the  heavy- looking  squat 
adobe  structures  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  perhaps  the  only  pitch- 
roof  building  in  the  city.  On  the  lower  floor  is  the  treasury 
department,  occupying  the  front  rooms ;  back  of  these  are  the 
offices  of  the  passenger  and  freight  departments.  The  rear  of 
the  building  is  occupied  by  the  offices  of  the  auditor's  depart- 
ment, in  which  are  employed  from  seventy  to  eighty  clerks.  On 
this  floor  also  will  be  found  the  telegraph  operators,  and  the 
division  and  local  officials. 


^• 


On  the  second  floor,  the  west  side  of  the  building  is  occupied 
by  the  general  manager  and  his  clerks.  The  offices  of  the  assist- 
ant manager  and  his  force  occupy  the  east  side  of  this  floor. 
The  third  story  is  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  engineering  de- 
partment. 

Just  west  of  this  office  building  is  the  passenger  station  where 
are  the  waiting  and  baggage  rooms,  ticket  and  express  offices ; 
an  iron  railing  keeps  "  the  reception  committee  "  away  from 
arriving  and  departing  trains ;  the  passenger  coaches  await  their 


123 


occupants  within  an  enclosure,  having  a  floor  of  concrete,  and  an 
iron  roof  supported  by  piers  or  columns  of  stone.  It  has  no 
walls,  and  therefore  it  is  as  light  and  airy  as  a  tent  without  sides. 
North  of  these  buildings  lies  the  yard  in  which  are  cars  of  all 
degrees  from  freight  to  Pullman,  the  offices  of  the  material 
department,  the  hospital,  the  shops,  round-houses,  and  other 
buildings  pertaining  to  the  operating  department,  and  the  store- 
houses from  which  the  requirements  of  a  large  part  of  the  line 
are  supplied.  Around  the  property  is  a  canal  which  serves  the 
purpose  of  a  fence  or  wall ;  this  canal  is  bordered  by  trees,  and 
the  railroad  yard  in  the  vicinity  of  the  buildings  has  quite  a  park- 
like appearance. 

Near  the  gate  at  the  passenger  station  we  see  a  car  which 
seems  to  be  a  fixture,  and  is  entered  by  a  flight  of  steps  to  its 
rear  platform.  This  is  the  Railroad  Men's  Reading-Room. 
Here  are  papers,  magazines,  and  other  current  literature.  In 
the  front  end  of  the  car  is  a  library  of  perhaps  a  thousand  vol- 
umes. Neither  the  reader  of  this  statement  nor  the  visitor  to 
Mexico  is  prohibited  by  law  from  contributing  to  this  library. 

It  is  not  an  easy  thing  to  find  in  the  city  of  Mexico  a  reading- 
room  where  can  be  found  the  latest  and  best  American  periodi- 
cals, although  there  are  stores  where  some  of  them  can  be 
bought.  This  reading-room  is  a  valuable  institution,  and  speaks 
well  for  the  intelligence  and  enterprise  of  its  founders  and  sup- 
porters. The  company  gives  the  use  of  a  car,  and  in  due  time 
will  provide  a  fine  room  for  the  association,  but  the  reading- 
room  and  library  are  sustained  by  contributions  of  members 
and  patrons. 

In  a  large  yard,  shut  off  from  the  street  by  a  high  wall,  are 
waiting,  at  train  times,  scores  of  carriages  for  the  conveyance  of 
passengers  to  points  in  the  city ;  from  the  east  side  of  this 
enclosure  we  pass  through  a  gate  into  the  street  near  Buena 
Vista  Place,  the  first  and  the  last  street  of  Mexico  for  passengers 
by  the  Mexican  Central  Railway. 

124 


I 


VIII. 

*'  Lax  in  their  gaiters  and  laxer  in  their  gait." 

The  Theatre. 


"  Infinite  riches  in  a  little  room." 

The  Jew  of  Malta. 

E\VIDENTLY  we  shall  have  space  for  only  a 
small  part  of  the  very  interesting  matter 
that  might  be  written  about  the  city  of 
Mexico.  The  history  of  the  city  is  sub- 
j  stantially  the  history  of  the  country. 
For  more  than  five  and  a  half  centuries 
it  has  been  a  capital  where  successively 
cacique,  conqueror,  viceroy,  emperor, 
dictator,  or  president  has  made  and 
executed  the  laws  of  the  land.  It  has 
always  been  the  commercial  as  well  as 
the  social  and  political  centre  of  the 
country. 

On  an  island  in  Lake  Texcoco,  in 
the  year  131 2,  the  Aztecs,  after  wan- 
dering more  than  seven  hundred  years,  discovered  the  prophetic 
sign  by  which  they  were  to  know  where  to  make  their  final 
home.  Here  they  laid  the  foundations  of  the  place  which  was 
called  Tenochtitlan,  in  honor  of  their  holy  guide,  and  also 
Mexico,  in  honor  of  their  war  god  Mexitli ;  and  Mexico  is  the 
name  not  only  of  the  country,  but  of  a  state  in  the  national 
union,  of  the  valley,  and  of  the  Federal  District.     The  relation 


125 


of  the  ancient  to  the  modern  city  we  will  trace  as  we  visit 
various  points. 

"  Well,  I  suppose  we  shall  go  at  once  to  the  plaza,  as  usual," 
said  the  Captain,  as  the  party  left  the  station. 

"Oh,  no,  not  this  time  !  First  we  will  go  to  the  hotel.  The 
expressman  has  our  checks,  and  we  can  wend  our  way  as  we 
please." 

"  What  hotel  do  we  go  to.  Major?  " 

"  The  Iturbide  is  the  place  for  us.  The  Jardin  is  liked  better 
by  some,  but  we  can  get  along  well  enough  in  a  palace,  can't 
we?" 

"  A  palace  !  "  exclaimed  the  Captain.  "We've  slept  in  a  con- 
vent, and  now  we  are  going  to  a  palace  !     Great  country  this  !  " 

"  You  can  go  to  another  convent  or  hospital,  if  you  prefer  the 
Jardin.  That  hotel  is  part  of  the  old  San  Francisco  monastery. 
All  its  rooms  open  upon  a  garden,  and  at  first  sight  one  would 
prefer  quarters  there  ;  but  the  Iturbide  is  a  much  larger  estab- 
lishment, and  we'll  try  it  there.  If  we  care  to  do  so,  we  can 
move  to  the  Jardin  afterwards." 

The  boys  were  quite  surprised  to  see  the  great  number  of 
carriages  waiting  in  the  yard,  and  quite  as  much  surprised  at  the 
absence  of  noise  among  the  drivers. 

"  We  need  not  take  a  carriage,  as  we  know  the  way,"  said  the 
Major;  "  we  will  walk.  But  notice  here  the  little  flags  on  the 
coaches  ;  little  tin  flags  on  the  left  side  of  the  driver." 

"  Yes,  I  see  one  :  it  is  blue.     What  does  that  mean?  " 

"The  flag  indicates  that  the  hack  is  unengaged,  and  the 
color  indicates  the  class  of  carriage.  Blue  flags  mean  first- 
class,,  red  flags  second,  and  yellow  flags  third-class  coaches. 
These  hacks  are  under  municipal  control,  and  the  tariff  for  ser- 
vice is  fixed.  In  each  coach  is  a  tariff  card,  so  that  he  who 
rides  may  read  and  know  just  what  he  ought  to  pay." 

The  first  thing  that  calls  for  notice  is  the  new  statue  of  Colum- 
bus in  the   square  of  Buena  Vista,  a  short  distance   from    the 

126 


station.  (It  was  unveiled  on  the  12th  of  October,  1892,  by 
President  Diaz.)  It  is  a  handsome  memorial,  but  not  as  im- 
posing as  the  larger  one  erected  on  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma. 
The  wide  street  just  south  of  this  statue  is  the  "  Avenue  of  Illustri- 
ous Men,"  extending  from  San  Cosme  to  the  Cathedral,  It  was 
the  western  causeway  from  the  old  island  city  to  the  mainland. 
Over  this  road  fled  Cortes  and  his  followers  on  the  famous  night 
called  "the  sad,"  la  noche  triste.  Into  this  ancient  highway  the 
party  turned,  near  the  spot  where  Captain  Alvarado  is  said  to 
have  saved  his  life  by  a  leap  over  the  moat.  They  made  their 
way  through  the  crowd  of  street  merchants  near  San  Fernando 
to  the  Alameda,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenade  parks  in 
the  world.  Crossing  the  park  diagonally  they  entered  San 
Francisco  Street,  and  soon  arrived  at  the  entrance  to  the  Hotel 
Iturbide.  This  building  is  palatial  only  in  its  dimensions.  It 
is  the  largest  hotel  in  Mexico,  and  the  only  one  that  indulges  in 
the  luxury  of  an  elevator.  The  old  part  of  the  house  is  four 
stories  in  height ;  the  new  part  has  three  stories.  The  main 
patio  IS  rich  in  stone  arches  and  columns  and  tinted  walls,  but  it 
seems  strange  that  this  great  court  should  be  left  so  barren  of 
plants  and  flowers,  for  it  could  be  made,  with  but  little  expense, 
one  of  the  most  attractive  patios  in  all  Mexico. 

The  best  Mexican  hotels  have  registers,  but  they  also  have 
blackboards  on  which  the  names  of  guests  are  duly  written 
against  the  number  of  their  rooms.  Blackboards  have  tiieir  uses, 
but  they  seem  a  little  superfluous  in  a  hotel  office.  What  need 
of  two  registers? 

"  That  is  strange,"  said  the  Corporal,  "  that  notice  on  the 
elevator,  *  This  elevator  runs  from  10  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.'  " 

"  Yes,"  said  the  Major,  "it  does  seem  strange  that  it  should 
begin  or  stop  at  so  unseasonable  an  hour.  The  idea  seems  to  be 
that  no  gentleman  will  be  up  before  ten  in  the  morning." 

"What  about  ten  in  the  evening?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"Well,    I    don't  know  exactly,  but    I    have   seen   some    who 

127 


showed  signs  of  discouragement  and  even  of  disgust  when,  coming 
in  with  '  that  tired  feeling,'  they  found  that  they  had  to  cHmb  the 
stone  stairs  to  the  third  story.  Moral :  get  in  before  ten  o'clock. 
There  is  a  demand  for  a  first-class  hotel,  and  I  have  heard  that 
there  will  be  one  very  soon.  If  there  were  an  establishment  at- 
tractive in  its  appointments,  doubtless  many  more  visitors  would 
make  a  long  stay.     Here  are  many  interesting  things  and  places 


HOTEL   ITURBTnE. 

to  see,  here  is  perpetual  June  weather,  and  here  is  lovely  scenery 
on  every  hand.  When  people  learn  the  facts  about  Mexico,  they 
will  wish  to  stay  longer  than  they  do  now.  A  fine  hotel  facing 
the  Alameda  could  scarcely  fail  of  success,  it  seems  to  me." 

"Well,  Major,  tell  us  about  this  house,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  It  was  always  a  private  residence  until  1855,  when  it  was 
turned  into  a  hotel." 


128 


"How  does  it  happen  to  be  called  a  palace?"  asked  the 
Captain. 

"  Because  Gen.  Iturbide,  who  lived  in  it,  happened  to  be  an 
Emperor,  the  first  and  the  last  native-born  Emperor  of  Mexico. 
He  lived  here  about  a  year  (March,  1822,  to  March,  1823),  and 
was  living  here  when  he  was  proclaimed  Emperor." 

"  Tell  us,  please,  how  he  happened  to  be  made  Emperor,  and 
what  became  of  him,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  He  was  born  in  the  city  of  Morelia,  entered  the  army  when 
he  was  only  fifteen,  and  before  he  was  thirty  years  of  age  he  had 
risen  to  the  highest  rank.  He  was  a  royalist,  and  fought  fiercely 
against  the  patriots  who  were  trying  to  secure  independence 
from  Spanish  rule.  Afterwards  he  changed  his  views,  but  his 
superior,  the  viceroy,  did  not  know  of  this  change,  and  made 
him  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  South,  where  the  patriots  were 
most  active.  Iturbide,  after  a  few  feeble  battles  with  them 
there,  agreed  with  Guerrero,  their  leader,  to  unite  with  him  in 
obtaining  independence  for  Mexico,  and  the  army  followed  its 
leader.  In  January,  1821,  he  proclaimed  the  'Plan  of  Iguala,' 
which  was  a  sort  of  Declaration  of  Independence,  of  which 
these  three  things  were  the  chief  features  :  first,  the  Catholic 
Church  shall  be  the  exclusive  form  of  reHgion ;  second,  Mexico 
shall  be  an  independent  monarchy,  having  some  member  of  the 
royal  house  of  Spain  as  ruler;  third,  there  shall  be  a  friendly 
union  of  Spaniards  and  Mexicans.  These  three  articles  became 
known  as  *  the  three  guarantees,'  and  the  colors  of  the 
Mexican  national  flag,  as  adopted  at  that  time,  represented 
these  three  articles  of  political  faith,  —  white  for  religion,  green 
for  union,  red  for  independence.  Iturbide  now  became  an 
ardent  loyalist,  and  in  September,  182 1,  after  victorious  battles 
at  Quer^taro  and  Puebla,  he  entered  the  capital  in  triumph. 
Independence  was  gained,  and  Iturbide  was  hailed  as  the  libera- 
tor. He  had  certainly  put  an  end  to  the  Spanish  power  which 
had  tyrannized  the  land  for  three  hundred  years. 

129 


"Iturbide's  plan  was  to  have  a  regency  govern  the  country 
until  Spain  should  send  out  a  prince  to  be  ruler.  But  Spain  de- 
layed consent  to  the  treaty,  and  party  spirit  rose  rapidly.  One 
party,  composed  of  the  patriots  and  most  of  the  resident  Span- 
iards, said,  '  Wait,  w^ait  till  the  prince  comes ' ;  the  other  party, 
consisting  of  the  army,  some  of  the  Spaniards,  and  the  church 
officials  said,  'Iturbide  the  Liberator  shall  be  Emperor.'  The 
Congress,  May  19,  1S22,  went  through  the  form  of  an  election, 
sixty-seven  members  voting  for  and  fifteen  voting  against  Itur- 
bide,  and  on  the  21st  of  July,  1822,  he  and  bis  wife  were 
anointed  and  crowned  in  the  Cathedral,  Emperor  and  Empress 
of  Mexico.  He  was,  officially,  Augustin  I.  He  endeavored  to 
strengthen  his  position,  but  Santa  Anna  led  in  a  revolt  which, 
in  March,  1823,  resulted  in  the  banishment  of  Iturbide.  In 
consideration  of  his  service  against  Spain,  the  Congress  voted  to 
pay  him  $25,000  a  year  during  life,  but  decreed,  later  on,  that 
he  should  be  treated  as  a  traitor  if  he  returned  to  Mexico.  He 
came  back,  was  arrested,  and  shot  July  19,  1824." 

"  This  doesn't  seem  to  be  a  healthy  place  for  Emperors,"  said 
the  Captain ;  "  both  the  native  and  the  imported  articles  seem  to 
live  but  a  short  time." 

"  Look  in  here,"  said  the  Major  to  the  boys  as  they  were 
passing  an  open  door  on  the  third  floor  of  the  hotel. 

"Why,  what  is  this?  It  looks  like  a  chapel!  how  pretty, 
in  white  and  gold,  and  what  a  beautiful  dome  ! "  said  the  Cor- 
poral. 

"A  chapel  it  is.  I  suppose  the  Emperor  said  his  prayers  here, 
and  certainly  his  wife  did.  But  the  Marquesa  de  Valparaiso,  who 
built  the  house,  had  the  chapel  arranged  for  herself.  See  the 
figure  of  Mexico's  Virgin  Saint  Guadalupe  over  the  door  !  While 
we  are  looking  round,  we  might  as  well  go  up  another  story  and 
get  the  magnificent  view  from  the  roof." 

Passing  through  an  iron  gate  beside  the  dome  of  the  chapel, 
they  stood  on  the  roof  of  the  hotel  and  surveyed  the  charming 


130 


landscape.  It  was  the  first  view  the  boys  had  taken  from  an 
elevation.  It  was  a  revelation,  a  surprise  most  charming.  Miles 
of  streets,  hundreds  of  domes  and  towers,  were  immediately 
about  them.  In  one  direction  the  Alameda,  and  beyond  the 
avenue  of  trees  along  the  Paseo,  ending  at  the  hill  of  Chapulte- 
pec,  crowned  by  the  castle.  In  the  opposite  direction  was  the 
Plaza  Mayor,  and  beside  it,  rising  over  the  square,  the  Cathedral 
towers.  Beyond  lay  the  lake  of  Texcoco,  and  fifty  miles  away, 
piercing  the  clouds,  could  be  seen,  without  a  thing  to  obstruct 
the  view,  the  snow-covered  volcanoes. 


A\'KMli.V    JI'AKK/,. 

"Well,  if  there  were  nothing  but  this  view  to  be  seen  in  Mex- 
ico," said  the  Captain,  "I  should  be  glad  I  came." 

"  Yes,  this  is  splendid,"  said  the  Corporal.  "See  those  rows  of 
trees  across  the  valley,  three,  four,  five  of  them,  miles  of  trees." 

"  Yes,  they  make  much  of  the  charm  of  the  valley.  Excepting 
the  east,  go  in  whatever  direction  you  will  out  of  the  city,  you 
pass  under  arches  of  trees,  poplars  or  cypresses,  north  to  Guada- 
lupe, south  to  Tlalpam,  west  to  Tacubaya.     They  not  only  make 


i.'^i 


the  landscape  beautiful,  but  also  add  much  to  the  comfort  of  ex- 
cursions through  the  valley.  Now  get  your  bearings,  boys.  Fix 
a  few  points  in  mind,  and  everything  will  seem  straight  afterwards. 
"  You  see  how  the  city  lies  ;  it  is  nearly  a  square,  and  the 
streets  run  nearly  at  right  angles.  One  need  have  no  difficulty  in 
finding  his  way  about,  even  if  there  are  some  irregularities  in  the 
streets,  and  if  the  same  street  may  have  a  half-dozen  sections, 
and  each  section  a  name  of  its  own.  There  was  once  no  end  to 
the  confusion  caused  by  the  naming  of  these  sections,  but  now 
it  is  largely  obviated  by  the  new  nomenclature  of  the  streets  and 
avenues.  The  old  names,  however,  will  be  retained  for  a  long 
time  by  the  people  ;  but  eventually  this  city  will  be  as  easy  to 
understand  as  the  heart  of  Philadelphia,  which  lies  within 

'  Market,  Arch,  Race,  and  Vine, 
Chestnut,  Walnut,  Spruce,  and  Pine.'  " 

"What  is  this  church  nearest  us?"  asked  the  Corporal,  pointing 
across  the  street  west  of  the  hotel. 

"  That  is  what  is  left  of  the  monastery  of  San  Francisco.  The 
whole  establishment  occupied,  for  more  than  three  hundred  years, 
what  is  now  four  large  blocks  of  the  city.  It  was  the  oldest, 
largest,  and  most  important  religious  concern  in  the  New  World. 
The  monastery  was  begun  in  1524,  and  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years  kept  on  growing,  till  nine  dormitories  with  three  hundred 
cells,  eleven  churches  and  chapels,  a  hospital,  a  refectory  where 
five  hundred  monks  could  dine  at  once,  a  large  garden,  and  a 
cemetery  were  within  the  enclosing  walls  of  San  Francisco.  It 
cornprised  nearly  as  large  an  area  as  the  Alameda.  But  the  nine- 
teenth century  has  changed  things.  The  walls  are  gone  now ; 
that  street  was  the  old  cemetery.  It  is  named  for  Padre  Gante, 
one  of  the  thirteen  holy  brethren  who  walked  from  Vera  Cruz  to 
Mexico  to  convert  the  heathen  Aztecs.  The  Hotel  Jardin  oc- 
cupies the  hospital  of  the  monastery,  and  enjoys  the  luxury 
of  the  garden  from  which  it  takes  its  name  ;  moreover  the  chapel 

132 


is  used  as  the  bar-room  of  the  hotel,  and  the  refectory  of  the 
monks  is  now  a  hvery  stable.  Independence  Street  runs  through 
the  middle  of  the  old  grounds.  One  of  the  chapels  is  now  a 
Methodist  church,  and  a  Protestant  Episcopal  organization  uses 
the  old  church  of  San  Francisco  as  a  place  of  worship.  You  see 
that  if  we  had  gone  to  the  Hotel  del  Jardin,  we  should  have 
been  on  historic  ground,  as  we  are  here.  Yes,  historic  ground 
indeed  it  is.  This  very  ^pot  is  where  the  Aztec  kings  had  their 
wild-beast  gardens,  and  where  the  Franciscans  built  their  first 
school  and  first  church  for  the  Indians  out  of  stones  taken 
from  the  Aztec  temple.  Cortes  gave  the  money  for  this  first 
church,  attended  mass  here,  and  his  bones  lay  here  sixty-five 
years  (till  1794).  Here  was  commenced  the  confiscation  of 
church  property  by  President  Comonfort  on  account  of  treason. 
Here  Juarez  continued  the  work,  and  now  the  ground,  and  even 
the  building  which  was  the  scene  of  the  first  work  of  the  faith- 
ful, is  occupied  by  the  heretic  and  the  infidel  !  How  the  good 
brothers  would  pray  to  go  back  to  their  tombs,  if,  like  the  Seven 
Sleepers  of  Ephesus,  they  should  wake  up  and  see  how  the  world 
has  degenerated  since  the  good  old  days  when  the  seven 
churches  of  San  Francisco  were  in  their  glory  ! 

"  In  the  next  street  west,  just  beyond  San  Francisco,  is  the 
little  church  of  Santa  Brigida,  one  of  the  most  fashionable  in 
the  city,  though  a  most  insignificant-looking  building.  Two 
more  churches  I  will  call  attention  to ;  one  near  by  on  the 
northeast  called  the  Profesa,  just  above  the  main  entrance 
to  the  hotel.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  churches  in  Mexico, 
and  like  our  little  chapel  here,  it  is  decorated  in  white  and  gold. 
The  famous  architect  Tolsa  designed  its  great  altars.  We  must 
go  and  see  La  Profesa.  The  other  is  over  yonder  a  few  blocks 
away  on  the  southeast ;  it  is  the  church  of  San  Augustin,  now 
occupied  by  the  National  Library.  Well,  the  churches  are  legion 
here.  We  will  visit  some  of  them  ;  your  visit  to  the  roof  will 
be  of  value  to  you." 


^33 


As  it  was  Sunday,  the  party 
resolved  to  make  it  a  Sab- 
bath, a  day  of  rest,  and  not 
to  begin  their  excursions  till 
the  next  day.  But  Sunday  is 
the  great  day  for  observation 
in  Mexico.  It  is  everybody's 
"  day  out,"  and  everybody  is 
out.  The  usual  order  for  the 
fashionable  class  is,  mass  in 
the  morning,  the  Alameda  for 
a  promenade  from  eleven  to 
I  ---«--  —  Qj^g  o'clock,  and  driving  on 

I  the  Paseo   from   four  to  seven  in  the   evening. 

\J^  The    order    for  the   million   is  shopping  in  the 

^ morning,  and  wandering  about  the  rest  of  the 

day.  If  one  wishes  to  see  the  extremes  of  society  in  Mexico, 
he  must  go,  while  the  four  hundred 
are  at  church,  into  the  southeast  part 
of  the  city,  anywhere  between  the 
Plaza  and  San  Juan  Market.  The 
natives  throng  the  streets,  such  mul- 
titudes of  people,  and  such  people  ! 
They  are  mostly  the  poor, 
the  very  poor.  This  is 
their  buying  and  selling 
time  ;  the  sandals,  the 
zarape,  the  rcbozo, 
the  white  and  the 
colored  cloths  from 
which  their  gar- 
ments are  made,  house- 
hold utensils,  and  sweets  and  toys  for  the  children,  all 
are  largely  bought  on  Sunday  morning.     Street  mer- 


134 


I 


chants  then  do  their  greatest  trade  of  the  week.  All  this  com- 
ing and  going,  dickering  and  bartering,  you  must  see,  or  you  do 
not  see  Mexico.  Don't  be  afraid  to  mingle  with  the  multitude. 
You  never  will  find  a  more  quiet  and  orderly  crowd  anywhere. 
It  is  a  sight  of  a  lifetime,  in  its  way.  Good-naJ;ure  prevails,  and 
politeness,  at  least  as  sincere  if  not  as  demonstrative  as  that  of 


PULQUERIA. 

the  Alameda,  will  be  seen  in  the  streets  among  these  people, 
whose  fortune  seldom  ever  amounts  to  a  peso.  They  seem  to 
have  a  satisfactory  philosophy  of  life,  which  is  expressed  about 
thus : — 

"  Our  portion  is  not  large  indeed, 
But  then  !  how  little  do  we  need  ! 

For  nature's  calls  are  few. 
In  this  the  art  of  living  lies, 
To  want  no  more  than  may  suffice, 
And  make  that  little  do." 

Now  to  the  Alameda.  It  covers  twenty-two  acres  and  has  mnes 
of  walks,  a  deer  park,  bird  garden,  and  children's  play  grounds. 
It  is  crowded  too,  but  with  what  a  different  class  of  people  !  The 
beautiful  women  and  handsome  men  for  which   Mexico  is  noted 


135 


here  parade  an  hour,  for  their  own  delectation  and  for  the  delight 
of  foreigners. 

What  Saxe  said  of  people  at  Saratoga  may,  with  a  little  change, 
be  said  of  the  procession  in  the  Alameda  :  — 

"  Some  go  to  show  off  their  daughters, 
And  some  to  show  off  themselves." 

Take  a  chair  on  any  of  the  dozen  avenues  which  radiate  from 
the  great  central  glorieta  (circle)  ;  sit  an  hour  and  watch  the 
panorama.  You  need  not  go  to  the  show,  it  will  come  to  you  ;  it 
will  pass  and  repass  before  you ;  it  is  worth  going  to  see,  and  it 
must  be  seen,  or  "  the  pride  of  Mexico  "  is  missed.  Was  there 
ever  anything  so  "fetching"  as  that  hand  salute,  that  waving  of 
the  fingers?  or  anything  so  touching  as  that  embrace,  that  patting 
on  the  shoulder,  and  that  double  kiss  (always  on  the  cheek)  of 
meeting  friends?  Did  you  ever  hear  so  little  talking  from  so 
many  people?  and  yet  everybody  is  talking,  but  how  quietly  and 
how  musically  they  do  it  !  A  half-dozen  Americans  or  two  Ger- 
mans will  make  more  noise  in  conversation  in  the  house  or  on  the 
street  or  promenade  in  half  an  hour  than  a  hundred  of  these 
people  would  make  in  a  day.  Fashions  the  latest,  garments  the 
richest,  flowers  the  brightest,  faces  the  prettiest,  forms  the  finest, 
smiles  the  sweetest,  are  all  in  the  picture  moving  before  you. 
Where  can  you  see  such  another?  Nowhere  but  in  the  Alameda 
of  Mexico,  and  there  only  on  Sunday  or  on  some  political  or 
ecclesiastical  feast  day. 

After  reviewing  the  promenade  the  party  strolled  westward 
through  the  park,  and  turning  to  the  left  came  into  the  Avenida 
Juarez,  which  leads  to  the  Paseo.  The  Captain  seemed  to  be 
thinking  about  what  he  had  seen,  for  he  suddenly  asked,  — 

"  How  do  they  make  that  hand  and  finger  salute?  " 

"That's  a  cute  thing,"  chimed  in  the  Corporal;  "  I  must  learn 
that  trick;  that's  good  enough  to  take  home." 

"  It  is  a  pretty  flourish,  something  like  our  '  chase  the  geese.' 
It  is  called  beso  soplado,  or  blowing  the  kiss.     The  fingers  of  the 

136 


right  hand  are  gathered  closely  together  in  a  group,  brought  to 
the  lips,  and  then  thrown  out  like  the  opening  of  a  fan.  The 
saluting  party  blows  on  the  hand  as  the  fingers  fly  apart,  and 
thus  conveys  five  kisses  at  once  to  the  saluted  one.  I  have 
heard  some  American  ladies  say,  'That's  just  too  cunning  for 
anything.'  By  the  way,  let  us  cross  over  to  that  corner,  I 
see  something  there  that  will  interest  you,  and  something 
that  I  promised  to  tell  you  about.     This  pretty  Moorish  pavilion 


'  ^W' 


CrrV    TICKET    OKFICR. 


is  the  structure  in  which  Mexico  made  its  fine  exhibit  at  the 
World's  Fair  at  New  Orleans.  The  Lottery  Company  occupies 
it  now." 

"  Lottery  tickets  seem  to  be  ])lenty  here,"  remarked  the  Cap- 
tain. 

"  I  should  think  so,"  added  the  Corporal,  "  two  or  three  kinds 
of  them,  and  sellers  as  plenty  as  flowers." 

"  Chances  to  make  your  fortune  meet  you  at  every  corner. 
You  can  see  the  elegant  headquarters  of  the  great  Lottery  Com- 
pany opposite  the  Central's  city  ticket  office." 


137 


The  party  reached  the  corner,  but  the  Major  made  no  remark 
as  to  what  he  wished  to  show  the  boys.  At  last  the  Corporal, 
puzzled  not  a  little,  inquired,  "  What  is  it.  Major?  I  don't  see  any- 
thing about  here  but  houses  and  people." 

"Well,  I  see  a  bear,"  replied  the  Major,  "or  at  least  a  young 
man  '  playing  the  bear.'  Don't  be  rude  about  it,  but  look  up 
to  the  little  balcony  yonder  and  you'll  see  a  smiling  sehorita. 
She  is  the  Juliet,  and  here  comes  the  Romeo  of  this  little  play. 
She  is  the  queen  and  he  the  Raleigh,  saying  with  his  longing 
eyes,  '  Fain  would  I  climb.'  " 

"  I  see  her,"  whispered  the  Corporal.     "She's  pretty." 

"  And  I  see  him,"  said  the  Captain.     "  He's  going  away." 

"  He's  only  moving  on  :  he'll  be  back  in  a  moment.  The 
lady,  too,  has  gone  away,  you'll  observe.  She'll  be  out  again 
soon.  We'll  watch  this  play  awhile.  It  is  called  *  playing  the 
bear'  (yhaciendo  del  oso)." 

"  How  does  it  get  that  name?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  From  the  walking  to  and  fro,  like  the  caged  or  tied  animal. 
An  invisible  but  strong  cord  holds  this  young  man.  One  end  of 
the  cord  is  around  him,  and  the  other  is  tied  to  the  balcony. 
'  So  near  and  yet  so  far.'  There  she  comes  agam,  and  here 
again  comes  Romeo.  Let's  move  on  now ;  we'll  take  another 
look  on  our  way  back.  We  shall  be  sure  to  find  the  play 
going  on,  for  evidently  the  parties  are  well  along  in  their  love- 
making.  A  young  lady  in  this  country  has  no  freedom  outside 
of  the  family.  A  young  man  cannot  call  on  her  at  any  time 
except  in  the  presence  of  others,  and  he  is  not  permitted  to 
call  at  all  until  he  has  obtained  the  consent  of  her  family  to  pay 
his  attentions  to  her.  In  our  country  attention  is  not  always 
intention,  but  here  it  is  a  serious  matter  from  the  start.  The 
method  of  the  mania  is  this :  the  young  man  sees  somewhere  a 
young  woman  who  attracts  him.  He  finds  out,  if  he  doesn't 
know  already,  who  she  is  and  where  she  lives.  He  promenades 
where  she  can  see  him  from  her  little  cage.     She  marks  him  and 

138 


iniicates  her  feeling  towards  him  by  her  actions.  If  she  rejects 
his  attentions,  she  gives  no  response  to  his  glances  and  demon- 
strations of  blissful  pain  or  pleasure ;  she  turns  away  arid  practi- 
cally says,  '  Go  away.'  If,  on  the  other  hand,  she  wishes  to 
encourage  him,  she  looks  at  him  tenderly  and  even  gives  him  a 
smile.  The  young  man  understands  the  language  of  the  eye 
and  of  the  fan,  and  hears  'a  song  without  words'  —  happy 
youth  !  Day  after  day,  sometimes  for  years,  he  walks  to  and 
fro  in  sight  of  his  sweetheart.  Sometimes  he  has  only  his  labor 
for  his  pains,  for  there  are  flirts  among  the  fair  in  Mexico.  But 
generally,  after  a  period  of  promenading,  and  smiling,  and 
sighing,  in  which  the  young  nian  has  proved  the  sincerity  of  his 
profession,  he  is  allowed  to  call.  After  that,  if  everything  is 
satisfactory,  in  due  time  an  engagement  is  announced,  and  if 
nothing   breaks    a  wedding  ,  . 

follows,  and  of  course,  '  they 
live  happy  ever  after.'  " 

Facing  the  entrance  to 
the  Paseo  stands  the  oldest 
and  largest  bronze  in  all 
Mexico.  It  is  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  Charles  IV., 
and  it  has  a  very  remarkable 
history.  In  the  first  place, 
it  is  a  remarkable  piece  of 
work.  Humboldt  says  that, 
next  to  the  monument  of 
Marcus  Aurelius,  in  the  city 
of  Rome,  this  is  the  finest  equestrian  statue  in  the  world.  It 
is  nearly  sixteen  feet  high,  weighs  about  thirty  tons,  and  is  cast 
in  a  single  piece.  It  was  the  first,  and  some  say  it  is  the 
largest,  bronze  statue  ever  made  in  America.  It  is  the  work  of 
the  famous  Tolsa.  Formerly  it  stood  in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  where 
It  was  erected  in   1803.     In  1824  it  was  taken  down  from  the 


139 


Plaza,  and  put  out  oi'  sight  in  the  court  of  the  University,  where 
it  remained  till  1852,  when  it  was  erected  in  its  present  position. 
On  account  of  its  various  removals  it  was  nicknamed  "  Caballito 
de  Troya"  (the  little  Trojan  horse).  A  Mexican,  who  may  safely 
be  supposed  to  know  a  perfect  horse,  says  there  is  only  one  little 
defect  about  the  statue.  See  if  you  can  find  out  what  that  is 
when  you  look  at  this  famous  bronze.  The  beauty  of  the  work 
and  the  name  of  Tolsa  saved  the  statue  from  obscurity,  if  not 
from  destruction,  as  an  inscription  on  the  pedestal  declares. 
Love  for  Spain  is  not  a  great  passion  in  Mexico ;  Cortes  has  no 
monument  in  the  country  that  he  conquered,  and  Charles  IV. 
would  have  none  except  for  Tolsa.  This  is  a  monument  to  Tolsa 
rather  than  to  the  king. 

Near  the  king  of  Spain  stand,  in  oxidized  bronze,  two 
Aztec  princes,  one  on  either  side  of  the  boulevard.  It  is  said 
that  horses  used  to  shy  at  sight  of  them^  and  the  princes  them- 
selves seem  to  say,  with  the  Prince  of  Morocco, — 

"  Mislike  me  not  for  my  complexion, 
The  shadowed  hvery  of  the  burnished  sun, 
To  whom  I  am  a  neighbor,  and  near  bred." 

We  recognize  their  right  to  refuse,  like  Falstaff,  to  "  give  a 
reason  on  compulsion  "  for  their  being  where  they  are,  or  for 
being  at  all.  The  name  of  the  party  on  the  right,  as  one  looks 
toward  the  west,  is  Ahuitzotl ;  the  gentleman  on  the  left  glories 
in  the  name  Axayacatl.  These  princes  were  noted  for  something, 
probably,  but  I  have  found  only  one  notable  thing  in  any  records 
of  them  that  I  have  seen ;  it  is  stated  that  H.  R.  H.  Axayacatl 
"killed  himself  by  over-exertion  in  killing  prisoners."  His 
present  exposure  may  atone  for  some  of  his  cruelty.  The 
pedestals  of  these  statues  are  fine  specimens  of  workmanship, 
and  deserve  to  bear  a  better  burden. 

There  are  four  glofietas  (circles)  in  the  Paseo,  each  three 
hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  intended  for  heroic  statues.     Two 


140 


4  ^_, 


r*--' 


of  these  places  are  already  occupied  :  the  first  by  a  monument 
to  Columbus ;  the  second  by  a  memoriil  and  statue  of  Cuauhte- 
moctzin,  or  Montezuma  III.,  the  last  Aztec  prince. 

The  Columbus  monument  (unveiled  in  1877)  is  the  work  of 
Cordier,  and  was  a  gift  to  the  city  from  Seiior  Don  Antonio 
Escandon.  It  is  in  three  parts  :  first,  the  base  of  basalt,  octag- 
onal in  form  ;  second,  the  square  pedestal  of  Russian  jasper, 
bearing  four  basso-relievos,  and  four  life-size  figures ;  third,  the 
statue  of  the  discoverer, 
with  one  hand  drawing  the 
veil  from  the  Western 
World,  and  with  the  other 
pointing  heavenward.  In 
the  design  and  detail  this 
is  a  very  handsome  monu- 
ment. 

In  the  second  glorieta 
there  stands  the  memorial 
of  Cuauhtemoctzin,  hero  of 
the  last  days  of  the  Aztec 
Empire.  Many  regard  it 
as  the  finest  work  in  Mexico.  It  was  designed  by  the  eminent 
architect  Jimenez,  presenting  primitive  and  modern  features  in 
pleasing  combination.  On  a  platform  having  four  stairways,  each 
guarded  by  leopards  in  bronze,  stands  a  basaltic  pedestal  in  three 
parts.  The  first  of  these  bears  two  reliefs  and  two  inscriptions. 
The  reliefs  represent,  one,  the  captive  prince  before  Cortes, 
the  other,  the  torture  of  Cuauhtemoctzin  and  Tetlepanpuetzal 
(from  whom  Cortes  expected  to  learn  where  the  royal  treasure 
was  hidden).  On  the  second  part  of  the  pedestal  are  the  names 
of  four  heroes,  and  representations  of  Aztec  arms  and  shields. 
The  third  section,  beautifully  ornamented  with  ancient  symbols, 
is  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue  of  Cuauhtemoctzin,  who  was 
every  inch  a  king,  and  who  could  and  would  have   annihilated 


141 


Cortes  had  Montezuma  allowed  him  to  arouse  the  people  against 
the  invaders.  The  figure  represents  the  chief  advancing  and 
about  to  cast  the  spear  raised  in  his  right   hand ;    on  his  feet 


^ 


are  sandals,  over  his  shoulders  the  royal  robe,  and  on  his  head 
the  feathered  crown.  This  memorial  is  almost  reverenced  by 
the  Indians,  who,  on  every  21st  of  August  (the  anniversary 
of  his  torture),  hold  a  festival  in  the  glorieta.  Cuauhtemoctzin's 
memory  is  honored  by  addresses  in  the  Aztec  language,  and  by 

peculiar  demonstrations,  in 
which  flowers,  processions, 
and  dances  play  important 
jiarts.  This  statue  is  always 
beautiful,  but  it  is  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  early  morning. 

In  the  third  glorieta  will 
soon  be  erected  a  bronze 
statue  of  Hidalgo,  twenty 
feet  in  height ;  and  in  the  fourth  a  statue  of  Juarez,  sixteen  feet 
high.     These  works  have  already  been  cast  in  Rome. 


9tM^ 


%\~ 


142 


On  the  south  side  of  the  Paseo,  near  the  Columbus  monument, 
are  extentive  bath-houses  (Pane  and  Osorio).  The  Alberca 
Pane  is  the  largest  and  finest  in  every  respect.  Here  may  be 
enjoyed  shower,  swim,  Roman,  Russian,  and  Turkish  baths.  This 
establishment  runs  its  own  street  cars  (the  Circuito  de  Baiios), 
and  conductors  give  a  free  ride  to  the  bath-house  to  pur- 
chasers of  bath  tickets. 

As  they  were  returning  to  the  hotel  the  party  took  another 
look  at  the  pretty  play  on  and  before  the  balcony.  After  lunch 
the  "  Fair  God  "  was  read  aloud  by  the  Captain  for  the  benefit 
of  all,  and  the  "tzin,"  its  hero,  seemed  to  be  a  living  hero.  This 
reading  and  the  writing  of  letters  quickly  brought  the  hour  when 
the  four  hundred  and  the  million  of  Mexico  are  out  to  be 
seen  and  to  see  on  the  Paseo. 

The  Paseo  between  four  and  six  o'clock  on  any  day  in  the 
year,  but  particularly  on  Sunday,  is  another  sight  which  is  worth 
going  a  long  way  to  see.  The  boulevard  itself  is  one  of  the 
finest  driveways  in  the  world.  Mexico  owes  a  debt  of  gratitude 
to  the  unfortunate  Carlotta,  wife  of  Maximilian,  for  the  reforma- 
tion of  the  Plaza  and  for  the  creation  of  the  Paseo.  Before  her 
day  the  Plaza  was  simply  a  bare  and  barren  square  ;  she  trans- 
formed part  of  it  into  a  lovely  park  and  a  charming  garden,  as 
we  see  it  to-day.  This  boulevard,  called  the  Paseo  de  la  Re- 
forma,  two  miles  in  length,  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in 
width,  with  its  glorietas  and  its  magnificent  trees,  is  the  bequest 
of  the  Empire  to  the  Republic.  The  royal  avenue  is  the  pleasure 
drive  of  the  people.  Here  may  be  seen  a  larger  number  of  fine 
horses  and  carriages  and,  in  general,  more  display  of  wealth 
than  in  the  park  of  any  city  in  the  world  with  twice  the  popula- 
tion of  the  city  of  Mexico.  When  it  is  remembered  that  but  a 
small  proportion  of  the  population  is  either  able  or  pretends  to 
be  able  "  to  keep  a  carriage,"  this  statement  is  the  more  worthy 
of  note.  It  carries  its  own  lesson,  and  comment  is  unnecessary. 
The  Paseo  is  Vanity  F'air  on  wheels,  and  many  are  there  who 


143 


can  ill  afford  to  be  there  in  the  style  they  affect.  But  that  is 
nothing  to  the  looker-on  in  Mexico.  We  are  here  to  see  the 
show,  and  the  Paseo,  with  its  real  and  imitation  aristocracy, 
gives  us  one  of  the  greatest  shows  on  earth.  What  if  some 
appear  to  be  taking  only  a  penitential  excursion,  and  others 
seem  to  say  with  Desdemona,  — 

"  I  am  not  merry,  but  I  do  beguile 
The  thing  I  am  by  seeming  otherwise !  " 

Nearly  all  the  world  appears  both  young  and  fair  on  the 
Alameda  and  on  the  Paseo.  All  Mexico  seems  to  be  looking 
on,  and  happy  enough.  This  is  a  lotos  land,  and  we  know  that 
the  poet  speaks  the  truth  when  he  says  :  — 

"  The  dole e  far  niente  is  a  delightful  game, 
If  only  one  can  spare  the  time  who  plays  it. 
If  one  can  be  content  to  sit  and  watch  year  after  year 
The  world's  great  ships  go  sailing  by  and  never  want  to  steer. 
The  dolce  far  niente  is  a  delightful  game 
For  people  who  have  lives  to  spare  to  play  it." 


144 


IX. 

"  The  good  old  rule 
Sufficeth  them  —  the  simple  plan 
That  they  should  take  who  have  the  power, 
And  they  should  keep  who  can." 

Rob  Roy^s  Grave. 

"The  world,  which  credits  what  is  done, 
Is  cold  to  all  that  might  have  been." 

In  Memoriam. 


NOW  we  are  going  to  '  the  very  heart  of  Mexico,'  the 
Plaza  Mayor  de  la  Constitucion,"  said  the  Major,  as 
the  party  stepped  into  San  Francisco  Street.  "This 
street  is  the  principal  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and 
is  at  once  a  Fifth  Avenue  and  a  Broadway.  Mexico 
~  has  no  Beacon  Street  or 

Commonwealth  Avenue. 
Many  of  the  finest  stores  as 
well  as  some  of  the    finest 
residences  are  on  San  Fran- 
cisco  Street,  which  is   now 
called  Fourth  Avenue." 
As  they  walked  along,  attention  was  called  to  the  showy  stores, 
the  costly  houses,  cafes,  and  club  houses,  the  Profesa  and  other 
churches.      Reaching  the  end  of  the  street  they  found  them- 
selves in  the  great  square  which  has  been  reserved  wholly  for 
public  use  since  i6i  i  :  they  crossed  to  the  Zocalo  and  took  seats. 
The    history   connected  with   the    Plaza  is  very  interesting. 
Where  the  little  garden  is  now  there  stood   in   13 12   the  rocky 


PLAZA    MAYOR    IN    1803. 


145 


island  on  which  the  long-looked-for  sign  was  discovered  by  the 
Aztecs.  Here  they  built  their  first  temple,  here  was  the  enor- 
mous Teocalli,  or  place  of  celebration  and  of  sacrifice.  On  this 
ground  in  1 5  2 1  occurred  the  final  struggle  between  Cortes  and 
Cuauhtemoctzin  (so  vividly  described  in  "A  Fair  God"),  and 
here  the  new  city  was  begun  on  the  ruins  of  the  old  one,  the 
temple  making  way  for  the  cathedral.  For  three  hundred 
years,  on  the   13th  of  August,  the  celebration  of  the  conquest 


ANOTHER  PARTY. 

was  celebrated  here  by  processions  in  which  the  mayor  bore 
the  standard  of  Cortes,  the  viceroy,  the  council,  and  the  nobility 
following  it  on  horseback.  More  than  sixty  royal  governors 
made  official  display  here,  and  at  least  two  Emperors  were  here 
proclaimed,  and  in  that  church  had  coronation.  Since  182 1  the 
flags  of  two  foreign  nations  have  floated  from  yonder  staff",  and 
chief  magistrates,    almost   without    number,    have    crossed   this 


146 


ground  to  assume  their  functions  as  rulers.  Prisoners  of  church 
and  state  have  passed  here  on  their  way  to  the  fagot  and  the 
scaffold. 

The  square  was  practically  a  market  place  till  i6ii,whena 
royal  order  was  given  for  removal  of  the  booths ;  trading  was, 
however,  continued  here,  and  in  1692  a  famine  riot  occurred  in 
which  three  million  dollars'  worth  of  property  was  destroyed. 
For  a  century  the  Plaza  was  a  dirty,  desolate-looking  place,  but  in 


T803  the  viceroy  prepared  a  place  for  the  statue  of  Charles  IV. 
by  enclosing  a  large  circular  space  by  a  stone  wall  and  iron 
fence.  Thai  statue  was  removed  in  1824,  and  later  the  founda- 
tion was  laid  for  a  memorial  to  Mexican  independence.  The 
band-stand  of  the  Plaza  is  built  upon  that  foundation  (or  Z(ka/o), 
and  the  Plaza  is  called  "  The  Zocalo."  One  hears  people  say, 
"  We  are  soins  to  the  Zocalo  "  much  oftener  than  '■  We  are  goins 


147 


to  the  Plaza."  There  was  no  garden  or  park  here  till  1866,  and 
the  gardens  about  the  Cathedral  date  only  from  1880.  Many 
booths  are  seen  in  and  about  the  square,  but  probably  they  will 
all  disappear  in  time,  if  the  city  ever  reaches  a  point  when  it  can 
get  along  without  the  revenue  which  the  traders  contribute. 
Visitors  may  well  hope  that  that  point  is  far  distant,  for  with  the 
removal  of  these  peculiar  places  of  trade  will  vanish  one  of  the 
characteristic  features  of  Mexican  life. 

"  This  seems  to  be  the  centre  of  everything,"  said  the  Cor- 
poral.    "  Do  all  the  street  cars  start  from  here?  " 

"  Nearly  all,  and  they  go,  as  you  see,  in  trains ;  that  is,  two  or 
three  start  together  and  run  on  the  same  time.  The  custom  is, 
perhaps,  a  relic  of  barbarism  or  of  the  old  days  when  protection 
was  the  chief  thing  to  think  of  and  provide  for.  Instead  of  run- 
ning one  car  every  five  or  ten  minutes,  they  start  a  train  of  two 
or  three  every  twenty  or  forty  minutes ;  this  wholesale  style 
makes  a  wholesale  waste  of  time  for  passengers,  but  then  time 
isn't  money  in  this  country.  Class  distinction  accounts  in  part 
for  the  train  system." 

"  I  notice  that  there  are  different  colored  cars,"  said  the 
Corporal. 

"  Yes,  colors  denote  classes.  The  yellow  are  first-class  and 
the  green  second-class  coaches.  You  notice  also  a  kind  of 
double-decked  passenger  and  freight  car.  The  poorest  are 
accommodated." 

"  And  yonder  is  a  black  one  !  "  exclaimed  the  Captain.  "An 
open  platform  car  with  roof  only  and  a  cross  above  it." 

"That  is  a  funeral  car.  Captain.  You  will  often  see  the 
same  article  in  white.  You'll  see  processions  of  cars  on  the 
way  to  and  from  the  cemeteries.  There  is  one  coming  now. 
See,  the  black  car  has  a  casket  on  it.  The  mourners  are  in 
the  two  following  coaches.  That  is  a  first-class  funeral,  as 
you  may  know  by  those  yellow  cars.  Many  thousands  of  fu- 
nerals have  started  from  this  square.     It  looks  now  like  a  little 


paradise  with  its  trees,  flowers,  fountains,  and  cozy  seats  for 
weary  walkers,  but  in  days  past  blood  has  thoroughly  drenched 
this  ground." 

"You  mean  in  Aztec  times,"  said  the  Captain. 

"Yes,  and  as  late  as  1803.  The  gallows  stood  near  where 
we  are  sitting,  right  in  front  of  the  viceroy's  palace,  and  there 
was  the  frame  on  which  the  heads  of  criminals  were  exposed 
for  a  terror  to  evil-doers.  Riots  and  revolutions  almost  without 
number  have  been  witnessed  here." 

The  Plaza  now  comprises  about  nine  acres,  the  part  between 
the  garden  and  the  palace  being  used  as  a  parade  and  review 
ground  for  troops.  The  Cathedral  occupies  the  north  side  of 
the  Plaza. 

"Is  that  the  palace  on  the  east?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  That  is  the  National  Palace,  the  Federal  Capitol,  the  largest 
building  in  Mexico.  It  was  begun  in  1692,  and  has  been  en- 
larged, as  you  see,  till  it  covers  the  whole  immense  block,  an 
area  of  about  eight  acres." 

"It  looks  more  like  a  barracks  than  anything  else,"  said 
the  Captain.  "  See  the  towers  and  the  grated  windows,  and 
the  soldiers  keeping  guard." 

"Yes,  it  does,"  replied  the  Major;  "but  it  is  governmeni 
headquarters.  There  are  a  dozen  patios  within  the  walls  of  the 
buildings,  and  around  these  are  arranged  the  offices  of  the 
Treasury,  State,  and  other  departments  of  the  government. 
On  that  site  was  the  palace  of  Montezuma,  which  was  destroyed  ; 
then  Cortes  built  his  residence  there,  and  that  palace  was 
used  by  the  viceroys.  From  that  block  have  gone  out  the 
decrees  which  have  governed  Mexico  for  more  than  five  hun- 
dred years.  Of  course  we  must  make  a  tour  of  the  buildings 
on  the  block,  for  among  them  are  the  National  Museum.  But 
now  look  over  to  the  west  side  of  the  square." 

"  Nothing  there  but  houses  and  stores,"  said  the  Corporal, 
"and  not  very  nice  ones  either." 


149 


"  Nothing  gaudy  to  be  sure,  but  they  stand  on  ground  once 
occupied  by  a  palace.  Montezuma  lived  there  while  Cort(;s 
held  him  captive  in  15 19;  and  even  now  there  is  one  of  the 
great  institutions  of  Mexico  housed  there.  Some  think  it  is  the 
'  most  beneficent  institution  in  the  world,'  the  Monte  de 
Piedad." 

"What  is  that?"  asked  the  Captain. 
"  It  is  the  national  pawn-shop." 

"Pawn-shop!  what  is  there  good  about  that?"  asked  the 
Corporal. 

"  '  Hard  times  comes  a-knockin'  at  de  door  '  of  a  good  many 
rich  people,  though  he  spends  most  of  the  time  hammering  on  the 

poor  man's  door.  There  are 
some  good  folk  who  will  lend 
the  people  who  are  crowded  for 
^  money,  if  sufficient  security  can 
be   given  or   sufficient    interest 


'^'.mi 


o» 


be    paid.      These  lenders  have 

been  named  'uncle'  by  the  pa- 

A^  ^       ''^i'  \  Is' f'lf    trons  of  their  shops,  but  I  think 

Hp^,  .  ,\J     .""Ik*      ..J       \  **;    the  name  doesn't  imply  any  af- 

'■' '    fection.      Hamlet's   uncle,  who 

took  his  brother's  life  and  wife, 
and  robbed  his  nephew  of  a 
crown,  was  a  royal  type  of  the 
traditional  pawn-broker.  What 
kind  of  an  uncle  is  it  that  will 
charge  for  a  small  loan  on  good  security  three  per  cent  a  month 
interest  for  the  first  six  months,  and  two  per  cent  a  month  after 
that ;  interest  thirty  per  cent  a  year  !  isn't  that  robbery?  " 

"  I  should  say  it  is.     That  is  blood  money,"  said  the  Captain. 

"This  institution  is  intended,  by  lending  at  a  low  rate  of 

interest,  to  prevent  such    extortion.      The  Count  of  Regla,  in 

1775,  founded  this  pawn-shop  and  endowed  it  with  a  fund  of 


150 


$300,000,  the  income  to  pay  running  expenses.  Loans  were  and 
are  made  up  to  about  tliree  fourtlis  of  the  value  of  the  article 
deposited.  At  first  no  charge  at  all  was  made,  the  founder 
believing  that  grateful  patrons  would  sustain  the  charity  by  vol- 
untary gifts,  but  they  did  not,  and  the  fund  was'  seriously  im- 
paired, but  now  a  fixed  rate  is  charged,  and  the  great  pawn-shop 
is  doing  an  immense  business.  I  saw  the  statement  for  one 
month  in  1892.  In  that  month  ^168,000  was  loaned  on  27,000 
pawn  tickets.  About  $60,000  was  paid  on  renewals.  The  total 
amount  out  on  loans  and  secured  by  articles  in  the  warehouses 
was  $1,050,000.  It  lends  about  a  million  dollars  a  year  to  forty- 
five  or  fifty  thousand  patrons." 

"There  are  plenty  of  other  pawn- 
shops, I  suppose?"  said  the  Captain. 
"  Every  city  has  plenty  of  them." 

"Yes,  there  are  seventy  of  them 
in  this  city,  and  the  census  shows 
that  nearly  $5,000,000  was  lent  last 
year.  We  will  look  into  some  of 
these  private  ones,  and  will  see  some 
fine  jewels  in  the  great  Monte  de 
Piedad." 

"I  can  see  now  how  even  a  ])awn- 
shop  can  be  made  a  good  thing  for 
the  unfortunate,  if  managed  as  this 
one  is,"  said  the  Captain. 

The  remaining  part  of  the  west 
side  of  the  Plaza  is  occupied  by  a  long  arcade,  over  which  are 
residences.  This  arcade  is  called  the  Portal  de  Mercaderes.  It 
has  twenty-seven  arches,  and  under  them  are  numberless  stands 
for  the  sale  of  notions,  newspapers,  cigarettes,  and  candies. 
Formerly  that  part  of  the  square  was  occui)ied  by  an  Aztec 
dancing  school.  The  portales  continue  round  the  corner  of  this 
block  for  a  long  distance  down  Sixth  Avenue  or  Coliseo  Street. 


The  southern  side  of  the  square  has  the  City  Hall,  or  the 
Palacio  Municipal,  a  building  mostly  two  stories,  but  at  the 
corners  three  stories  in  height.  Here  is  again  a  long  row  of 
stone  arches  finer  than  those  of  the  west  side,  and  in  these 
portales  are  some  of  the  large  dry-goods  stores  of  the  city.  On 
this  site  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  Aztec  army  had  his 
headquarters.  The  city  government  and  the  district  officials 
occupy  the  upper  stories. 

This  rapid  review  of  the  buildings  facing  the  Plaza  will  indi- 
cate the  important  place  that  this  little  tract  of  land  holds  in  the 
history  of  Mexico. 

Entering  the  great  Cathedral,  the  party  found,  of  course,  a 
service  going  on,  and  took  seats  near  the  door.  The  boys 
were  surprised  to  see  kneeling  on  the  floor,  side  by  side,  the 
richly  dressed  lady  and  the  ragged  Indian,  the  fashionable 
gentleman  and  the  poor  street  sweeper.  Cripples  hobbled  across 
the  floor,  and  children  walked  from  altar  to  altar  with  their  par- 
ents while  the  priest  w^as  reading  and  the  choir  was  singing  their 
parts  of  the  service.  At  last  the  benediction  was  given,  and  the 
great  church  was  left  almost  deserted ;  perhaps  half  a  hundred 
people  remained  kneeling  and  saying  their  prayers. 

The  great  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  over  the 
central  arches  rises  a  magnificent  dome  decorated  by  the  most 
celebrated  artists  of  the  day.  The  dimensions  of  the  church 
are  :  length,  three  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet ;  width,  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-seven  feet ;  height,  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
nine  feet.  There  are  five  naves,  six  altars,  and  fourteen  chapels. 
The  grandeur  of  the  great  structure  is,  however,  detracted  from 
by  the  enormous  choir  enclosure  in  the  central  nave  ;  by  the  high 
altar,  which  is  too  lofty  and  too  gaudy  to  harmonize  with  the 
general  simplicity  of  the  surrounding  gray  and  white  walls ;  bv 
the  division  of  two  of  the  naves  into  chapels ;  and  by  a  wooden 
floor  !  But  while  the  first  impression  is  somewhat  disappointing 
as  compared  with  that    made    by  a  visit  to  any  of  the    great 

152 


cathedrals  of  Europe,  the  visitor  is  surprised  by  such  a  display 
of  magnificence.  He  thinks,  what  must  it  have  been  in  the 
days  of  its  glory  ! 

The  massive  railing  about  the  entrance  to  the  choir  is  a 
curiosity  in  metal  as  well  as  in  art.  It  is  a  composition  of  gold, 
silver,  and  copper,  and  came  from  China.  Along  the  passage 
from  the  choir  to  the  altar  are  sixty  or  seventy  small  figures 
made  of  the  same  brilliant  metal,  serving  as  light  bearers.  The 
pulpits  and  the  huge  holy-water  basins  are  of  onyx. 

Of  the  fourteen  chapels,  seven  are  on  each  side.  In  one  of 
these  on  the  west  side  is  the  tomb  of  Iturbide,  and  here  the 
title  "  Liberator  "  is  accorded  him.  Of  the  six  altars  the  most 
beautiful  is  the  Altar  of  the  Kings,  modelled  after  the  one  by  the 
same  artist  in  the  cathedral  of  Seville.  Below  this  rest  the  re- 
mains of  some  of  the  viceroys  and  of  the  four  patriots,  Hidalgo, 
Aldama,  Allende,  and  Jimenez,  who  were  executed  in  Chihuahua. 

The  Cathedral  stands  on  the  site  of  the  Aztec  temple  destroyed 
by  Cortes.    It  was  begun  in  1573,  and  finished  in  1667. 
The  towers  were  finished  in   i79i,atacost  of         :  ■^;*-*-^§H 
$200,000.     The  whole  structure  cost  about  ^  .       ^-^ 
$2,000,000. 

On  the  wall  of  the  west  end  of  the 
Cathedral  there  is  a  blackened  space 
with  an  interesting  inscription  on  it. 

"What  does  all  that  mean?"  asked 
the  Corporal. 

"  It  says  that  here  was  exhibited 
till  1885   the  famous    stone  of  the 
sun,  or  Calendar  Stone   of  the  Aztecs,  and   that  now  you   can 
see  it  in  the  National  Museum." 

'*  Is  that  the  stone  we  see  so  many  pictures  of? ''  asked  the 
Captain. 

"  The  same,  and  there  is  a  cast  of  it  in  the  Smithsonian  Insti- 
tution at  Washington.     The  stone  was  first  found  about  three  hun- 


153 


dred  years  ago,  but  buried  again  at  the  order  of  the  archbishop. 
In  1 790  it  was  discovered  again  —  it  had  not  stirred  probably  — 
two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  west  of  the  main  entrance  to  the 
National  Palace.  It  was  brought  here,  where  it  remained  till 
1885.  Certainly  it  is  a  wonderful  thing.  It  is  an  immense  block 
of  porphyry  nearly  twelve  feet  square,  about  three  feet  thick,  and 
weighs  nearly  twenty-five  tons.  On  this  block  is  engraved  a  disk 
more  than  eleven  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  centre  is 
carved  the  face  of  a  man  ;  some  say  it  represents  the  sun,  others 
think  he  is  the  man  of  the  moon  and  the  months.  Around  this 
are  symbols,  arranged  in  seven  circles.  It  is  now  believed,  I 
think,  generally,  that  it  had  more  to  do  with  slaughter  than  with 
seasons.  Bandelier,  the  highest  authority,  concludes  that  this 
stone  was  a  sort  of  nether  millstone  in  the  Aztec  sacrifices ;  his 
words  are,  '  It  served  as  the  base  of  the  smaller  perforated  stone 
to  which  the  victim  was  tied,  and  upon  the  two  stones  the 
gladiatorial  sacrifice  was  performed.'  Strange  relic  of  a  strange 
people  ! 

"  Here  is  the  Flower  Market.  We  must  come  up  to  it  early 
in  the  morning.  You  will  be  astonished  to  see  how  many 
flowers  you  can  get  for  a  quarter,  or  rather  for  the  omnipotent 
dos  realesT 

"What  kind  of  flowers?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  All  kinds,  and  all  the  year  round.  Roses,  and  pansies,  and 
heliotrope,  '  too  numerous  to  mention.'  '  Miiy  bonita,  seTior,' 
and  '  Afjiy  batata,'  the  sellers  say,  and  very  pretty  and  very 
cheap  the  buyers  think.  We  shall  see  great  boat  loads  of 
flowers  when  we  go  to  the  Viga  Canal,  and  there  are  often  liter- 
ally wagon-loads  here  in  and  about  this  little  pavilion  of  iron 
and  glass  called  the  Mercado  de  Flores. 

"  While  we  are  so  near  it,"  continued  the  Major,  "  let  us  go 
into  the  Plaza  de  Santo  Domingo.  It  is  rather  a  forlorn-looking 
square  at  present,  but,  like  the  large  Plaza,  it  has  been  the  scene 
of  interesting  events.      Here    is  the  house  of  the  Inquisition, 

154 


which  '  strong  fort  and  mount  of  Zion,'  as  one  writer  calls  it,  was 
founded  in  Mexico  in  157 1.  Indians  were  by  royal  order 
excluded  from  the  jurisdiction  of  this  holy  court,  but  the 
Inquisition  found  material  enough  to  work  upon.  The  patriot 
Morelos  was  the  last  victim.     He  died  in  181 5." 

"Did  they  burn  people  in  this  square  of  Santo  Domingo?  " 
asked  the  Corporal. 

"  No,  they  divided  the  honor,  or  the  horror,  as  we  thmk,  be- 
tween two  other  squares.  The  principal  brasero,  or  burning 
place,  was  near  the  church  of  San  Diego,  on  ground  which  now 
is  a  part  of  the  Alameda.  You  see  that  blunt-cornered  building 
yonder?  In  that  were  the 
court  and  prison  of  the  In- 
quisition." 

"And  what  church  is 
this?  "  asked  the  Captain. 

"  The  monastery  church 
of  Santo  Domingo.  Like 
that  of  San  Francisco,  the 
establishment  has  been  all 
cut  to  pieces  by  new  streets 
and  other  improvements. 
Many  buildings  once  here 
have  disappeared  entirely, 
parts  of  some  remain,  as 
you  see,  but  the  church  has 

been  spared.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  churches  in  the  city. 
This  plaza  is  interesting  also  as  the  second-hand  market  of 
Mexico.      Let  us  look  around  a  little." 

"What  is  that  man  doing?  Is  he  writing?"  asked  the 
Captain. 

"  Yes.  He  is  an  evangelista,  one  of  a  class  that  has  nearly 
gone  out  of  business ;  its  business  is  to  write  letters  for  those 
who  cannot  write  :  love  letters,  begging  letters,  all  kinds." 


155 


"  He  seems  to  be  busy ;  why  do  you  say  the  class  is  going 
out?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"The  schools  are  doing  the  business.  Thousands  of  children 
have  learned  to  write  in  recent  years,  and  much  that  these 
street  writers  used  to. do  is  now  done  at  home  by  the  chil- 
dren. The  city  has  more  than  a  hundred  schools  now,  and 
is  increasing  the  number  rapidly." 

-  "That  is  good  for  Mexico,"  said  the  Cap- 
tain. "There  is  its  chief  hope  for  the 
'  •  future." 

"  Yes,  Mexico  is  rising ;  the  pres- 
ent administration  is  doing  nobly 
in  providing  schools,  but  at  present 
hardly  one  third  of  the  children  of 
school  age  are  in  attendance.     Forty 
years  ago  not  over  $100,000  was  de- 
voted to  schools  by  the  government ; 
now  it  appropriates  about  $3,500,000 
a  year.     A  good  beginning  has  been 
made,  however,  and  rapid  advance- 
ment may  be  expected.    The  people 
are   learning  that   education    means 
money  to  them. 
"There  are  three  or  four  interesting  points  near  the  Alameda," 
said  the  Major,  "which  we  can  visit  before  lunch." 

"  Oh,  this  beautiful  Alameda  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal  as  they 
entered  the  park;  "it  seems  prettier  than  ever." 

"  It  is  always  charming.  And  what  a  pretty  name  !  that,  you 
know,  comes  from  alamo,  a  poplar ;  but  we  see  here  now  not 
only  poplars,  but  eucalyptus,  willow,  ash,  cypress,  and  pepper 
trees.  Then  the  palms  and  banana  plants,  and  the  roses, 
geraniums,  and  calla  lilies  !  Isn't  it  beautiful?  Notice  here  the 
models  or  miniatures  of  the  volcanoes,  crater  and  all." 
"  We  might  ascend  Popocatepetl,"  said  the  Captain. 


156 


"  Yes,  we  might,  but  there  would  be  an  eruption  if  that  police- 
ni.in  should  see  us. 


'  Try  not  the  pass,  the  old  man  said,' 

or  would  say." 

As  they  reached  the  west  end  of  the  park  they  stopped  on  the 
spot  where  the  Inquisition  punished  its  offenders,  near  the  church 
of  San  Diego. 

"Do  you  see  that  flag,  boys?"  asked  the  Major. 

"  Hurrah  ! "  exclaimed    the    Corporal,  "  it   is    the    stars    and 
stripes.     Hip,   hip, 
hurrah  !      Salute   the 
flag  !  " 

"There  is  the  of- 
fice of  the  legation 
from  the  United 
States.  Our  minister 
plenipotentiary  and 
envoy  extraordinary 
exercises  his  mighty 
functions  on  ground 
once  belonging  to 
the  Monastery  of  San 
Diego.  The  church 
is  still  used,  and  its 
interior  is  beautiful." 

"  I  dare  say  our 
minister  doesn't  at- 
tend church  there," 
said  the  Captain. 

"A  minister  ought  to  go  to  church,"  remarked  the  Corporal. 

"  He  wouldn't  have  to  go  far,"  said  the  Major,  "  for  here  are 
five  Catholic  churches  almost  within  a  stone's  throw,  and  right 
over  yonder  is  a  Protestant  church.     Between  those  two  churches 


OLD   CHURCH    OF   SAN    HII'DI.ITO. 


157 


across  the  street  to  the  north  stands  the  monument  of  Morelos, 
the  last  victim  of  the  Inquisition,  and  a  hero  second  only  to 
Hidalgo.  He,  too,  was  a  priest;  he  carried  on  Hidalgo's  work 
and  followed  him  in  martyrdom.  Maximilian  unveiled  this 
memorial  in  1865.  Well,  here  we  are  at  the  old  church  of  San 
Hip61ito.  Notice  that  stone  memorial  tablet  on  the  corner,  so 
worn  that  we  can  hardly  read  its  inscription." 

"  If  it  were  in  letters  of  gold  or  of  blazing  fire,  I  couldn't 
read  it,"  said  the  Captain,  "  it  is  in  Spanish." 

"  Well,  can  you  read  the  picture  in  stone  ?  You  see  an  eagle 
bearing  aloft  an  Indian  (not  a  snake,  as  on  the  coat  of  arms). 
The  story  of  that  aeronaut  is  this.  An  eagle  carried  him  away 
from  his  work  in  a  field  to  a  mountain  cave ;  there  a  spirit  told 
him  he  must  return  and  tell  Montezuma  that  the  gods  were  angry 
with  him,  and  that  the  kingdom  would  be  destroyed.  The 
eagle  brought  him  back  and  set  him  down  right  on  this  spot. 
Now  you  know  the  story  in  stone.  As  to  the  inscription,  it 
remarks:  'In  this  place  on  the  night  of  July  i,  1520,  called  the 
Dismal  Night,  so  great  was  the  slaughter  of  the  Spaniards  by 
the  Aztecs,  that  after  entering  the  city  again  in  triumph  the  next 
year,  the  conquerors  determined  to  build  a  memorial  here  to  be 
named  the  Chapel  of  the  Martyrs ;  and  to  be  dedicated  to  San 
Hip61ito,  for  on  that  saint's  day  the  city  was  taken.'  " 

"  Martyrs  !  Cortes  and  company  martyrs  !  "  exclaimed  the 
Captain.  "  If  the  inscription  had  said  butchers,  it  would  have 
been  nearer  the  truth." 

"  Well,  they're  dead  now,"  said  the  Corporal,  "  don't  rake  up 
old  scores.     Was  Cortes  here  himself  ?" 

"  Yes,  but  his  captain,  Alvarado,  was  the  hero  of  the  hour. 
Right  here  was  the  city  limit  on  the  west ;  a  moat  surrounded 
the  town,  and  here  was  a  fortification  ;  in  fact,  it  was  also  the 
prison  where  slaves  intended  for  the  sacrifices  were  kept. 
The  Spaniards  had  been  in  possession  of  the  city  since  Novem- 
ber, 15 19,  and  their  cruelty  caused  the  Aztecs  to  rebel.     They 

158 


I 


pursued  the  Spaniards,  who  were  fleeing 

for  their  Hves,  over  this  causeway  to 

the    mainland.      Here   so  great   a 

slaughter  occurred  that  the  moat 

was  filled    with   bodies.      Alva- 

rado,  like  Ney,  the   last   to  re-  ^ 

treat,   saved    himself  by  a  mosti 

wonderful    leap    over    the    canal,' 

and  joined  Cortes,  who  had  halted 

at  Tacuba.      The    tree,  called   the 

El  Arbol  de  Noche   Triste,   under 

which  Cortes  wept,  is  still  standing. 

The  Spaniards  started  for  the  coast, 

but   went   only  to   Tlascala,   where    they    were    promised    men 

and  means  by  the  Tlascalans,  who  were  the  mortal  foes  of  the 

Aztecs.     Six  months  Cortes  worked  day  and  night  getting  ready 

to  return  and  punish  the  rebels.     Re- enforcements  came  from 

Cuba,  boats  were  built  and  launched  on  Lake  Texcoco.     Sulphur 

was  brought  from  the  volcano  and  made   into  gunpowder,  and 

the    native    troops  were  drilled  in  the  art  of  war.     On   the  last 

day  of  the  year,  1520,  Cortes  with  his  Spanish  force  and  Indian 

allies  began  the  siege  of  the  doomed  city.      The  siege  lasted 

more  than  half  a  year,  and  on  Aug.  13,  152 1,  the  Spaniards  took 

possession  again  and  ruled  the  country  for  exactly  three  hundred 

years.     Iturbide,  you  will  remember,  put  an  end  to  their  power 

in  August,  1 82 1." 

"This  is  an  'old  corner  bookstore,'  "  said  the  Corporal;  "it 
tells  us  so  much." 

"  Well,  come  on,  there's  another  place  near  by  tliat  will  tell  us 
several  stories.  It  is  the  panteon  of  San  Fernando,  only  two 
blocks  west  of  San  Hip61ito. 

"This  is  the  little  plaza  of  San  Fernando;  that  bronze  is  a 
statue  to  Vicente  Guerrero,  the  leader  of  the  patriots,  with  whom 
Iturbide  joined  to  achieve  the    independence  of  Mexico,  and 

159 


>vho  afterwards  was  President.  We  shall  see  his  tomb  in  the 
enclosure  yonder,  which  has  been  aptly  termed  the  Westminster 
of  Mexico.  There  many  of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  the 
country  are  buried.  The  names  of  Juarez,  Guerrero,  Zaragoza, 
Comonfort,  Mejia,  and  Miramon  recall  the  most  stirring  events 
in  the  history  of  the  Republic." 

Of  the  tombs  none  are  worthy  of  note  except  that  of  Juarez. 
This  is  by  far  the  finest  memorial  in  Mexico.  On  a  stone  plat- 
form in  an  open  marble  temple,  the  roof  of  which  is  supported 
by    sixteen    Doric   pillars,   stands    the    massive    sarcophagus  on 


which  rests  the  memorial  m  ulpture.  It  represents  the  Republic 
holding  in  her  lap  the  head  of  the  hero  over  whose  dead  body 
she  mourns.  A  grateful  country  has  filled  the  little  temple  with 
tokens  of  admiration  and  affection.  The  tomb  of  Juarez  meets 
every  requirement  of  a  worthy  memorial  to  one  who,  like  our 
Washington,  was  "  first  in  war,  first  in  peace,  and  first  in  the 
hearts  of  his  countrymen." 

"  Here  Juarez  slumbers  in  divine  repose, 
His  effigy  in  marble  robes  arrayed, 
And  in  the  statued  lap  of  Freedom  laid 
As  pure  as  the  Sierra  Madre's  snows." 

1 60 


A  suggestive  fact  it  is  that  here,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  tomb 
of  Juarez,  rest,  in  sepulchres  inscribed  only  with  their  names, 
the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  generals,  Miramon  and  Mejia. 
A  magnanimous  country,  in  permitting  their  burial  here,  recog- 
nizes their  bravery. 

"This  is  not  now  a  public  cemetery,"  said  the  Major,  as  they 
were  walking  towards  the  gate.  "  There  are  perhaps  one  thou- 
sand two  hundred  graves  here  ;  many  of  them,  as  you  see,  cham- 
bers in  the  walls  of  the  enclosure." 

"  Curious  they  don't  give  dates  of  birth  and  death,"  said  the 
Captain,  pointing  to  a  tablet  on  which  were  only  two  words. 
"Here  is  'ELLA  DUERME,'  and  nothing  more." 

"That  is  enough,"  replied  the  Major,  smiling  at  the  natural  mis- 
take. "Vou  will  probably  find  a  name  and  the  dates  on  the  other 
sides  of  the  monument.     Those  words  simply  say,  'She  sleeps.'  " 

"  That  is  a  good  one  on  you.  Captain,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  Easy  enough  to  make  a  mistake  like  that  here  where  men 
are  named  Maria,"  replied  the  Captain,  smiling. 

"Let  us  look  into  the  old  church  of  San  Fernando,"  continued 
the  Major.     "  It  is  one  of  the  largest  churches  in  the  city." 

"Are  there  many  Protestant  churches  in  Mexico?"  asked  the 
Captain. 

"  The  Presbyterians  have  about  ninety  churches,  and  a  mem- 
bership of  about  four  thousand ;  the  Methodists  have  fifteen 
churches,  and  a  membership  of  nearly  four  thousand  ;  the  Baptists 
have  fifteen  churches,  and  a  membership  of  about  one  thousand." 

"  And  how  about  Catholic  churches?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"The  census  of  1888  state  that  there  are  10,112  Catholic 
churches  and  chapels  in  Mexico.  The  membership  includes  the 
whole  population  of  12,000,000,  excepting,  perhaps,  25,000. 
State  and  church  are  separated  by  the  Laws  of  the  Reform, 
established  in  1874,  but  operative  before,  under  the  administra- 
tion of  President  Juarez.  Six  archbishops  and  twenty-one  bishops 
now  administer  the  affairs  of  the  church  in  Mexico." 

i6i 


X. 


I  will  scarce  think  you  have  swam  in  a  gondola." 

As  You  Like  It. 


AMONOS  a  la  Viga  !  "  exclaimed  the  Major,  as  the 
party  finished  the  coffee  and  rolls.     "  This  early 
start  is  the  right  thing,  first,  because  early  morn- 
ing is  the  lively  time  along 
the  canal ;   and,  second, 
we  must  get  back  in  time 
to  visit  the  Museum, 
which    is   open   only    till 
noon." 

"I  don't  care  much  for 
a  canal,"  said  the  Cap- 
tain. 

"  But  you  will  care  for 
this  one.  The  Viga  Ca- 
'■V-?.:-^^  nal  has  no  towpath,  and 
no  boats  with  any  decks. 
The  Viga  fleet  is  composed  wholly  of  flalboats,  and  the  motive- 
power  of  the  same  is  a  pole  and  an  Indian." 

"  An  Indian  engine  !     Would  two  Indians  make  a  compound 
engine?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Wait  a  little  while  and  you'll  see  for  yourself" 

Taking  street  cars  at   the  south  side  of  the  great    Plaza,  a 

short  ride  through  the  lowest  and  dirtiest  part  of  the  city  brings 

us  to  the  stream  with  the  pretty  name,  which  is  spelled  with  a 

V,    and    which    suggests   Venice.      Visions    of    gondolas    soon 


162 


vanish,  and  Venice  is  forgotten ;  the  illusion  is  rather  a  delusion. 
We  discover  that  the  street  cars  run  along  the  bank  of  the 
stream,  and  that  from  them  a  better  view  of  the  things  we  have 
come  to  see  can  be  obtained  than  from  a  flatboat,  and  so  we 
pass  the  flatboats  by,  that  is,  we  do  if  we  are 
wise.  As  the  party  came  to  the  ijoint  where 
the  passenger  boats  are  tied  up,  the 
Major  said,  — 


"  Here  you  are.  Corporal  ;  all 
aboard  for  Santa  Anita,  Ixtacalco, 
and  Xochimilco." 

"  I  think  I'd  rather  make  the 
trip  in  the  car,"  said  the  Corporal. 
"We  can  see  more  that  way." 

"  Yes,  and  do  it  in  less  time," 
added  the  Captain. 

"  Which  way  is  up  stream  ?  " 
asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Away  from  the  city  is  up 
stream.  Lake  Xochimilco,  which  supplies  the  water,  is  four  feet 
higher  than  the   city,  and  so,  towards  the  city  is  down  stream." 

"That  is  lucky  for  the  boatmen.     They  have  the  current  with 
them  in  getting  their  loads  to  market,"  said  the  Captain. 


i6- 


"They  have  big  loads,  too;  see  those  boats  stocked  with 
wood  !  A  man  would  not  be  able  to  pole  that  load  up  stream. 
You  see  what  a  variety  of  stuff  the  boats  bring  in, — vegetables, 
hay,  wood,  stone,  sand,  fruit,  and  flowers." 

"  Flowers  !  look  at  that  load  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal.  "The 
boat  is  so  full  that  there  is  hardly  any  room  for  the  engine  to 
work  !  " 

"  And  here  on  the  bank,"  said  the  Major,  "  you  see  an  active 
market,  piles  of  fruit  and  stocks  of  flowers.     Notice  that  families 


live  on  the  boats  while  in  port.  They  have  a  floating  hotel ;  in 
fact,  many  families  live  all  the  time  in  their  boats.  Here  is  one 
of  the  gates  {garitas),  where  the  city  tax  is  collected.  They 
don't  have  much  'free  trade'  in  Mexico." 

"See  those  little  island   gardens!"  exclaimed    the    Captain, 
"and  the  boats  going  about  in  the  ditches  around  them." 


1.64 


IKKIGA'IIOX. 


"  Yes,  these  are  the  famous  *  floating  islands  '  of  story.  They 
are  called  chinampas  by  the  natives.  Perhaps  they  once  floated, 
but  they  do  not  float  now." 

"No,  Major,  they  are  stuck  in  the  mud,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  Right,  and  they  are  made  mostly  of  mud.  You  see  men  at 
work  digging  mud  from  the  large  canal  and  carrying  it  to  these 
islands,  where  they  spread  it  or  use  it  in  banking  up  the  sides. 
The  gardens  are  very  fertile  and  bear  crops  all  the  year  round." 


"They  are  all  shaped  alike,  I  see,"  said  the  Captain,  "say  two 
hundred  feet  long  and  narrow,  not  more  than  ten  or  twelve  feet 
wide.  What  a  fine  road  this  is,  and  all  the  way  under  great 
shade  trees  !  " 

"  Santa  Anita  !  here  we  are.  Pretty  name,  but  not  a  very 
pretty  place.  Mostly  thatch-roofed  restaurants  or  flat-roofed 
gambling  places ;  games  going  on,  in  a  small  way,  almost  all 
the  time.     We'll  stop  off  and  watch  them  on  our  way  back." 

Off  again,  the  next  stop  is  Ixtacalco.  Along  the  bank  of  the 
canal  the  sportive  mules  gallop  as  if  they  were  in  a  hurry  to 
arrive.  They  don't  mean  it,  but  they  do  beat  the  solitary  Indian 
poling  along  his  light  canoe,  and  the  passenger  feels  glad  as  he 


165 


passes  the  boats  that  he  stayed  on  the  car  and  did  not  consign 
himself  to  the  creeping  chalupa  on  the  raging  canal.  More 
alleged  floating  gardens  are  passed,  and  we  come  to  another 
market  place  and  a  small  village,  which  can  show  a  big  church 
more  than  three  hundred  years  old ;  this  is  Ixtacalco.  But  we 
are  going  farther,  and  so  do  not  make  a  stop  here. 

"Where  are  we  going?''  asked  the  Corporal;  "to  the  lake?" 
"  No,  not  quite.  We  are  going  to  Ixtapalapa,  and  then  to  the 
Hill  of  the  Star ;  we  turn  east  from  the  canal  at  the  next  village, 
which  is  Mexicalcingo.  The  canal  goes  on  directly  south,  five 
or  six  miles  farther,  to  the  lake  :  we  wjjl  see  the  lake  from  the 
hill.     You  can  see  the  hill  yonder." 

"That  one  with  the  cross  on  the  summit?" 


"  Yes ;  that  is  an  historic  old  hill,  and  from  it  we  shall  get  a 
fine  view  of  the  lakes  and  of  the  valley  and  the  volcanoes." 

"  Here  we  are  at  Mexicalcingo,"  said  the  Captain,  "  not  much 
to  see  here  !  " 

"  Nothing,  except  this  rare  old  bridge ,  isn't  that  a  pretty 
view?  Over  that  highway,  crossing  the  bridge,  Cortes  went,  in 
15 19,  to  meet  Montezuma,  who  came  out  of  the  city  to  receive 
him.  We  leave  the  canal  here  and  follow  that  highway  to 
Ixtapalapa,  where  th«re  is  something  to  see  worth  going  to  see." 

The  car  passed  through  a  long  narrow  street  of  low  adobe 
houses,  and  came   to   the   end    of  the  track,  where  the  mules 


166 


ceased  from  their  festive  gallop,  the  driver  from  his  arduous 
labor,  and  the  passengers  from  their  interesting  ride. 

"What  on  earth  is  there  here.  Major?  two  pulque  shops, 
three  dusty  streets,  and  a  dozen  dirty  children,  that  is  all  I  can 
see,"  said  the  Captain.  "  Oh,  yes  ;  there  is  a  woman  and  a  dog 
and  two  burros  !  " 

"This  is  the  worst  I  ever  saw,"  added  the  Corporal,  "dead  as 
Julius  Caesar  !  " 

"Yes,  dead,  and  not  buried,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  Not  quite  as  bad  as  that,  boys ;  not  quite  dead,  but  very 
old.  This  was  a  royal  residence  when  the  Spaniards  came  into 
the  country,  and  perhaps  founded  in  the  year  669.  We  are 
on  prehistoric  grounds,  and  in  a  place  that  has  a  right  to 
a  good  rest  after  a  lifetime  of  more  than  a  thousand  years. 
What  the  people  of  Ixtapalapa  lack  in  vivacity,  they  make  up  for 
in  devotion  to  their  religion.  Aztec  traditions  and  customs 
prevail  here  undisturbed  by  modern  notions.  This  was  the 
home  of  Cuauhtemoc,  the  brave  prince  who  made  a  Noche 
Triste  for  Cortes." 

Going  down  one  of  the  dingy  streets  ornamented  chiefly  by 
cactus,  they  came  to  a  little  market  place,  and  crossing  it 
entered  the  great  yard  of  the  church,  in  which  were  many 
tombs.  A  massive  wall  of  stone,  with  embrasures  and  turrets 
like  those  of  a  fort  enclosure,  surrounds  the  yard. 

"  This  is  something  like  the  wall  around  the  old  church  at 
Tula,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  Very  like  it,  and  doubtless  was  intended  for  the  same  pur- 
pose,—  defence.     It  is  probably  as  old,  too." 

The  front  door  of  the  Parroquia  was  fastened,  but  an  Indian 
was  found  who  admitted  the  visitors  by  an  entrance  through  a 
chapel.  The  notable  things  to  be  seen  in  the  church  are  the 
"blue  moon  and  yellow  sun"  at  the  high  altar,  and  they  are 
peculiarly  sacred  to  these  Indian  worshippers.  Crossing  again 
the  market  place  to  the  south,  a  short  walk  through  a  better  part 

167 


of  the  town  brought  them  to  a  stone  chapel  which  is  attractive  in 
appearance,  both  without  and  within.  Here  an  Indian  was  con- 
ducting some  service,  and  many  worshippers  were  kneeling  and 
saying  prayers.  Here  were  found  some  fine  paintings  and  every 
sign  of  a  well-sustained  chapel.  The  boys  were  much  impressed 
by  what  they  saw,  and  the  Captain  asked,  — 

"  Do  they  attend  church  every  day?  " 

"Nearly,  I  think.  I  never  was  here  when  I  did  not  see  some 
service  going  on  ;  at  any  rate,  these  people  are  notably  religious. 
In  this  chapel  they  sometimes  have  passion  plays,  as  they  do  at 


IXTAPALAPA. 

Amecameca.  The  Indians  perform  the  parts  here  as  there. 
What  a  fine  avenue  of  shade  trees  this  is  !  And  here  is  a  sacred 
cave,"  continued  the  Major,  leading  the  way  past  the  chapel  on 
the  east. 

A  well-worn  path  led  under  an  immense  arch,  and  the  party 
found  themselves  in  a  low  cave,  long  and  wide,  the  floor  of 
which  was  covered  with  large  stones  which  have  fallen  there. 
At  the  extreme  end  of  the  cave  is  a  spring,  and  a  path  made  to 
it  through  the  rocks  shows  that  it  is  much  used ;  in  fact,  two 
Indians  were  seen  dipping  water  while  the  party  was  in  the  cave. 
The  boys    noticed   many  little    crosses,   and   also    crowns   and 


i68 


wreaths  made  of  small  twigs  or  splinters,  and  stuck  in  the 
cracks  of  the  rocks  all  about  the  entrance  and  overhead  along 
the  i)ath  to  the  spring. 

"What  do  these  things  mean?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  They  are  offerings,  or  they  indicate  prayers.  Notice  that 
some  of  them  are  wound  with  hair  ;  those  are  either  signs  of 
thanks  for  relief  from  headache  or  other  sickness,  or  of  prayers 
for  deliverance  from  some  disease.  The  cave  and  the  spring 
are  both  regarded  as  sacred  by  the  natives.  If  those  Indians 
were  not  here,  I  might  gather  a  few  of  these  votos  as  curiosities ; 
there  is  a  pretty  one." 

"  You  wouldn't  really  take  any  of  them,  would  you?"  said  the 
Captain. 

"  Perhaps  not ;  but  I  have  seen  visitors  take  some  of  them." 

"  This  is  certainly  an  interesting  place.  I'm  glad  we  came," 
said  the  Corporal.     "Let's  have  a  drink  from  the  sacred  spring." 

The  Indians  had  not  yet  gone  out  with  their  jars  of  water,  and 
on  request  seemed  much  pleased  to  give  a  drink  to  the  visitors. 
They  told  the  Major  that  great  cures  had  been  effected  by  its 
waters  in  answer  to  prayers.  When  he  told  the  boys  what  they 
said,  the  Corporal  remarked,  — 

"  I  don't  doubt  it,  I  feel  better  myself  already." 

"  Now  for  a  little  climb.  The  '  Hill  of  the  Star '  is  about 
seven  hundred  feet  high,  and  we  have  a  mile  walk  to  reach  the 
top.     There  is  the  trail  behind  the  chapel." 

"Pretty  steep  grade.  Major,  but  my  wind  is  good,"  said 
the  Captain. 

"You'll  need  to  go  slowly.  Remember  you  are  two  thousand 
feet  higher  now  than  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington.  The  air  is 
thin  here.     You  will  get  tired  very  easily." 

J'ollowing  the  trail  they  gradually  rose  above  the  village  and 
the  surrounding  valley.  Suddenly  they  came  upon  the  edge  of 
a  great  cavity,  thirty  or  forty  feet  across  and  ten  or  fifteen  feet 
deep. 

169 


"  What  is  this?  "  asked  the  Corporal.  "  It  looks  like  a  crater 
of  a  volcano." 

"  That  is  just  what  it  is.  This  whole  hill  is  of  volcanic 
origin  ;  in  fact,  all  the  hills  you  see  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
are  of  the  same  origin.  This  hill  has  a  great  many  of  these 
blow-holes  or  little  craters,  and  about  it  are  sulphur  springs. 
Over  yonder  to  the  west  of  us  is  a  great  lava  bed  called  the 
Pedregal,  covering  an  area  of  more  than  ten  square  miles. 
From  the  edge  of  it  came  the  great  stone  of  the  sun  and  also 
the  greater  sacrificial  stones.  This  lava  bed  is  from  twenty  to 
forty-five  feet  thick.  There  are  caves  and  fissures  in  it ;  fissures 
like  those  in  the  Mer  de  Glace  and  other  glaciers.  This  hill  is 
simply  the  cone  of  a  crater.  The  top  of  it  has  been  levelled  off, 
as  you  will  see." 

"  Why,  there  is  corn  growing  in  this  hole,"  exclaimed  the 
Captain. 

"As  sure  as  you  live,"  added  the  Corporal.  "Nice  warm 
place  for  a  garden.     Already  walled  in,  too." 

They  soon  came  upon  another  and  a  larger  cavity,  in  which 
could  be  seen  greater  evidences  of  the  action  of  heat.  The 
trail  now  led  off  to  the  west  to  a  promontory  considerably  below 
the  summit,  and  quite  overhanging  the  valley.  The  view  from 
here  was  fine,  especially  towards  the  west.  The  canal  seemed 
to  be  just  below  them,  and  could  be  traced  its  whole  length 
from  the  Lake  of  Xochimilco,  which  now  was  seen  by  them 
for  the  first  time.  The  floating  gardens  appeared  like  strips  of 
green  carpet  with  silver  borders.  Domes  and  towers  marked 
the  location  of  a  score  of  villages,  the  largest  of  which  are  San 
Angel  and  Tlalpam. 

"Beautiful !  "  exclaimed  all.     "  I'his  is  worth  coming  to  see." 

"  But  the  best  is  to  come  yet.  Another  little  climb,  and 
standing  by  that  cross  we  shall  have  one  of  the  finest  landscape 
views  in  the  world.     How  is  your  wind.  Captain?  " 

"  Good,  but  I'm  glad  the  top  is  no  farther  away." 

170 


^'  i  would  like  some  more  of  that  holy  spring  water,"  said  the 
Corporal;  "why,  here  is  a  wheat-field,  and  there  is  a  potato 
patch  almost  on  top  of  the  mountain  !  " 

In  a  few  minutes  they  reached  the  rocks,  which  project  almost 
perpendicularly  from  the  cone.  Here  they  had  a  steep  climb, 
but  soon  were  on  the  summit. 
When  he  had  recovered  his 
breath  the  Corporal  said,  — 

"  What  a  great  cross  !  These 
timbers  are  as  large  round  as  I 
am ;  and  who  placed  it  here, 
I  wonder." 

"This  has  been  a  sacred  hill 
for  centuries,  certainly  five  cen- 
turies, and  perhaps  ten,"  said 
the  Major. 

"Why  is  it  called  the  'Hill 
of  the  Star  '  (Cerro  de  la  Es- 
trella)?" 

"  The  shape  of  this  plateau 
is  not  unlike  that  of  a  star  ;  per- 
haps that  suggested  the  name. 
This  level  place  is  artificial, 
not  natural ;  probably  the  hill  came  to  a  ragged  peak,  or  was  • 
a  crater-like  rim,  as  that  one  is  yonder.  It  was  levelled  for  the 
site  of  a  temple." 

"  A  temple  !  up  here  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 

"'  Yes,  one  of  the  most  sacred  places  of  the  Aztecs.  Here  a 
solemn  procession  came  once  in  every  fifty- two  years  to  celebrate 
the  beginning  of  a  '  new  period,'  somewhat  as  the  Jews  cele- 
brated the  great  jubilee  or  fiftieth  year.  At  the  expiration 
of  a  cycle  every  fire  was  extinguished,  and  priests  and  people 
came  here  to  obtain  the  new  fire  for  another  cycle.  A  victim 
was  sacrificed,  and  with  great  ceremony  the   high  priest  built  a 


iril.t.  (W  TIIK  STAR. 


171 


fire  from  which  was  taken  the  ember  or  torch  which  gave  the 
new  fire  to  the  nation.  And  now  take  in  the  view  from  this 
summit.  Did  you  ever  see  anything  so  grand  ?  Yonder  on  the 
north  is  the  capital,  see  the  Cathedral  towers ;  and  the  spires  of 
a  hundred  monasteries,  convents,  and  churches.  Beyond  is  the 
sacred  hill  of  Guadalupe  ;  east  of  it  the  volcanic  peak  of  Penon ; 
then  Texcoco  Lake,  a  blue  sea  with  here  a  white  beach 
and  there  a  green  shore.  On  the  west  in  the  distance  is  Cha- 
pultepec,  crowned  with  its  castle,  and  nearer,  a  chain  of  pretty 
villages,  succeeded  by  twin  Lakes  Chalco  and  Xochimilco  ;  the 
whole  valley  rimmed  by  mountains  which  yonder,  as  you  see, 
lift  their  white  heads  almost  to  the  sky." 

"  It  is  a  splendid  view,"  said  the  Corporal.  "  I  would  not  like 
to  miss  this,  but  I  suppose  many  do  miss  it." 

"  Oh,  yes,  very  few  come  here,  but  those  who  do  come  are 
charmed  with  their  trip." 

"  It  beats  anything  we  have  had  yet,"  said  the  Captain.  "You 
see  so  many  things  of  different  kinds  in  a  short  excursion. 
There  is  the  canal,  the  gardens,  the  chapels,  and  caves,  and 
craters,  and  lakes,  and  last  and  greatest  of  all  those  volcanoes ; 
they  seem  very  near  here.     This  is  perfectly  splendid  !  " 

"  I  think  there  is  no  other  lookout  point  in  the  valley  to 
compare  with  it,"  said  the  Major.  "  You  are  here  four  times  as 
"high  as  the  Cathedral  towers,  or  the  Castle  of  Chapultepec. 
You  are  in  nearly  the  middle  of  the  valley,  midway  between 
the  lakes,  and  your  view  is  unob.structed  in  every  direction.  For 
these  reasons  it  appears  to  me  the  best  point  of  observation  in 
the  Valley  of  Mexico." 

"And  easy  to  reach,"  said  the  Captain.  "  In  two  hours  from 
the  hotel  we  can  be  on  top  of  this  hill." 

"What  a  place  for  a  picnic,"  said  the  Corporal.  "Bring  a 
basket  of  sandwiches  from  the  hotel ;  get  our  fruit  here  in  the 
village,  and  our  water  at  the  spring  in  the  cave,  and  here  you  are 
for  as  long  as  you  please.    Let's  come  again  and  spend  the  day." 

172 


I 
I 


"  We  certainly  shall  if  we  can  find  time ;  this  is  my  favorite 
excursion  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  I  have  wondered  why  the 
guide-books  make  so  little  mention  of  its  charms." 


The  Museo  Nacional  occupies  that  part  of  the  Palace  Block 
which  was  formerly  the  Mint.  At  the  entrance,  No.  921  Calle 
de  la  Moneda,  are  heavy  bronze  doors  under 
a  portal  of  Corinthian  columns,  which  admit 
the  visitor  to  a  charming  patio  in  which  may  / 
be  seen  splendid  specimens  of  the  peculiar 
plants  of  Mexico.  On  either  side  of  the 
court  a  broad  stone  stairway  leads  to  the 
upper  story  of  the  Museum,  which  is  : 
devoted  to  the  natural  his-  t 
.'■y"^  tory  exhibit.  The  ground  V 
lloor  is  occupied  by  the 
exhibit  of  antiquities.  Here  \, 
the  visitor  will  find  a  won-  , 
derful  collection  of  prehistoric 
lenAains.  Among  the  most  wonderful  things 
i  ,       to  be    seen  are    the   names  of  the    parties 


■'^^  ^'^.'' 


173 


commemorated.  They  are  as  massive  as  the  monohths  and  as 
dreadful  to  contemplate  as  the  Sacrificial  Stone.  The  Spaniards 
deserve  a  vote  of  thanks  for  bringing  a  new  and  musical  set  of 
names  into  this  once  distressed  country. 

It  is  not  necessary  for  the  visitor  to  pronounce  any  of  these 
frightful  names.  For  gods  and  goddesses  alike  he  may  use  the 
universal  name  of  "  what's  his  name,"  and  all  will  be  well ;  they 
don't  understand  English. 

The    reader    is    already    familiar   with    the    so-called    Aztec 
Calendar   Stone    (see    page    153).      He    must    now   be    made 
acquainted  with  the  idol  Huitzilopochtlih  Mexitli.      It  is  a  two- 
faced,   as    well   as    a    two-named,    image    in    porphyry,    nearly 
nine    feet    high.      This    represents    the    chief  god    of  ancient 
Mexico.     The  Indio  Triste    (the  sad  Indian),  of 
black  basalt,  three  and    one    half  feet  high,  was 
found   (dead)   in  the  street  now  named  for  him 
in   1828.     This  statue  is  one  of  the  stone  torch- 
bearers  at  the  portal  of  some  building.     The  Sac- 
rificial   Stone,   a    cylinder  of  porphyry,   two    and 
three  quarters  feet  high,  eight  and  one  half  feet  in 
diameter  and  twenty-seven   feet  in  cir- 
cumference, was  found  near  the  south- 
west corner  of   the   Cathedral  in   1791. 
Its  surface  bears  reliefs  nearly  an  inch 
high.      In    the    centre  is  a  circular 
basin  one  and  one  half  feet  in  diam- 
'  eter  and   six  inches   deep ;    around 
this   are    seven    rings   bearing  signs 
»^.?«a=»^..v;«*;^  similar    to    those    on    the    Calendar 

Stone.  Around  the  rim  are  thirty  figures  representing  warriors 
holding  men  and  women  (supposed  to  be  victims  for  sacrifice) 
by  their  hair.  The  date  of  the  stone  is  1484.  Chac-Mool 
(god  of  fire)  is  represented  by  two  figures.  These  were  brought 
from  Yucatan.     They  are  interesting,  but  not  pretty. 


174 


Space  and  patience  forbid  any  further  attempt  to  list  the 
strange  things  which  may  be  seen  in  the  Museum  of  Antiquities. 
We  must  mention,  however,  a  few  of  the  principal  objects  of 
interest  in  other  departments.  Here  are  relics  of  Hidalgo,  his 
standard,  his  cane,  and  his  gun ;  the  red  damask  standard  of  the 
conquerors,  a  portrait  of  Cor- 
tes, the  helmet  of  Alvarado, 
the  carriage  and  silver  service 
of  Maximilian.  In  the  central 
gallery  hangs  a  shield  of  Mon- 
tezuma, which  was  sent  by 
Cortes  to  the  Emperor  Charles 
V. ;  it  was  formerly  in  the 
Museums  of  Brussels  and  of 
Vienna,  but  in  1866  was  pre- 
sented to  this  Museum  by 
Maximilian.  The  display  of 
earthenware,  of  coins,  of  im- 
plements of  warfare  and  of 
domestic  use  is  rich  and  very 
interesting.  One  may  spend 
many  hours  in  this  Museum 
very  profitably.  To  see  this 
exhibit  is  worth  a  trip  to 
Mexico. 

In  the  Art  Gallery,  called 
the  Academy  of  San  Carlos, 
there  are  a  few  paintings  of 
superior  merit.  There  are 
miles  of  canvas  on  which  the  masters  of  I-lurope,  as  well  as  of 
Mexico,  have  displayed  their  skill.  Murillo,  Rubens,  Van  Dyke, 
and  Leonardo  da  Vinci  are  represented  in  the  third  gallery.  The 
most  notable  paintings  of  Mexican  artists  are,  "Xochitl  and  her 
Father   Papantzin  presenting  the  Toltec  Prince    Tecpaucaltzin 


175 


with  a  new  Drink"  (pulque),  by  Obregon,  and  "Brother 
Bartolome  de  las  Casas  as  Protector  of  the  Indians,"  by  Parra. 
This  last  named,  says  Janvier,  "  in  nobility  of  subject,  grandeur 
and  simplicity  of  treatment,  and  strong  but  subdued  color,  ranks 
as  one  of  the  great  pictures  of  the  world.  Work  such  as  this 
affords  ample  ground  for  faith  in  the  future  of  Mexican  art." 

As  the  party  left  the  Art  Gallery,  the  Major  said,  "  Now  we 
will  go  and  look  at  a  picture  that  is  vastly  more  beautiful  than 
any  we  have  seen,  and  thousands  of  years  older  than  any  of  the 
antiques  in  the  Museum." 

"What  do  you  mean?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  I  mean  the  view  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  from  the  towers  of 
the  Cathedral." 

"The  afternoon  is  the  best  time  for  that  view,  isn't  it?"  said 
the  Captain. 

"  Yes,  we'll  go  up  now  and  stay  till  sunset.  You  will  get  the 
view  of  a  lifetime,  and  it  will  last  you  for  a  lifetime.  Keats  must 
have  recalled  some  such  view  when  he  wrote  :  — 

•  A  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  forever  : 
Its  loveliness  increases;    it  will  never 
Pass  into  nothingness.'  " 


176 


XL 

"  The  monarch  of  mountains, 
They  crowned  him  long  ago 
On  a  throne  of  rock,  in  a  robe  of  clouds, 
With  a  diadem  of  snow." 


Manfred. 


E  must  go  to  Amecameca  to-morrow  morn- 
ing," exclaimed  the  Major,  laying  down  the 
paper  which  he  had  been  reading. 

"Why,   to-moriow  is  Sunday,"    said   the 
Corporal,  in  surprise. 

"  I  know  it,  but  we'll 
go  along  with  the  pil- 
grims. There  is  to  be 
a  peregrinacion  to  Sacro 
Monte." 

"What  is  that?"  the 
Captain  asked. 
"In  English  we  call  it  a  pilgrimage." 
"  Do  they  make  pilgrimages  in  this  country?  " 
"  Yes,   plenty   of  them,   and    they   are    interesting   sights    to 
visitors  from  our  country.     Pilgrimages  have  been  more  frequent 
than  usual  this  year  on  account  of  the  fear  of  cholera." 

"What  has  that  to  do  with  a  pilgrimage?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 
"  Everything;  what  is  a  pilgrimage  for?  " 
"  I  am  sure  I  don't  know ;  tell  us,  please." 
"  It  is  a  visit  to  some   shrine   for   the    purpose  of  returning 
thanks  or  of  asking  a  special  blessing.     The   people  here  are 


177 


alarmed  at  the  prevalence  of  cholera  in  Europe,  and  many  are 
going  to  Sacro  Monte  to-morrow  to  pray  that  Mexico  may  be 
protected  from  the  pestilence.  There  have  been  several 
pilgrimages  to  Guadalupe  for  the  same  purpose,  and  there  will  be 
many  more  before  the  summer  is  past.  I  heard  of  two  train 
loads  of  pilgrims  on  the  Central  to-day :  one  from  Zacatecas 
and  one  from  San  Luis  Potosi.  You  see  that  these  people  go  a 
great  way  to  visit  their  shrines." 

"  It  certainly  will  be  interesting  to  see  one  of  these  pil- 
grimages," said  the  Captain  ;  "  let  us  go  by  all  means." 

"Where  is  the  Sacro  Monte?"  asked  the 
Corporal. 

"  It  is  a  hill  about  forty  miles  southeast 
of  this  city,  at  the  base  of  the  volcanoes. 
It  rises  boldly  out  of  the  surrounding  plain 
at  Amecameca,  and  affords  the  best  possi- 
ble view  of  the  great  mountains,  — one  of 
the  great  views  of  the  world." 

"There  will  be  a  crowd,  of  course,"  said 
the  Corporal. 

"I  should  like  to  see  a  Mexican  crowd," 
said  the  Captain.  "  It  must  be  a  pictur- 
esque sight." 

"They  are  a  quiet  and  orderly  people.  You'll  have  an  inter- 
esting day,  I  assure  you.  There  are  some  interesting  sights  along 
the  road,  some  in  the  village  and  vicinity,  and  the  shrine  itself  is 
a  curious  thing.  We  pass  over  the  lowest  point  in  this  valley, 
and  go  where  you  can  almost  put  your  hand  on  the  base  of  the 
highest,  the  snow-capped  Popocatepetl." 

"  We  shall  have  a  full  day's  work  then,  if  we  are  to  take 
account  of  a  village,  two  volcanoes,  a  holy  mountain,  and  a  pil- 
grimage," said  the  Captain. 

"  Study  up  this  evening  so  that  you  will  know  something  about 
what  you  are  looking  at.     You  are  to  visit  that  '  highest  moun- 


178 


tain  in  Mexico  '  that  the  schoolbooks  tell  us  about.  The  name 
Popocatepetl  signifies  '  smoking  mountain,'  and  Ixtaccihuatl 
means  '  white  woman.' " 

The  Corporal  reported,  a  short  time  after,  the  result  of  his 
study  as  follows  :  The  volcanoes  are  fifty  miles  southeast  of  the 
city  of  Mexico.  Popocatepetl  is  17,777  feet,  and  Ixtaccihuatl 
17,071  feet  in  height.  No  trees  grow  above  an  elevation  of 
13,054  feet,  no  vegetation  is  found  above  13,710  feet,  and  per- 
petual snow  is  found  at  a  height  of  14,104  feet. 

"  Do  many  people  go  up  these  mountains?  "  asked  the  Cap- 
tain. 

"Yes,  quite  a  number  every  year.  The  ascent  of  Popo- 
catepetl can  be  made  safely  and  quite  easily  from  Amcrameca. 
There  is  a  miners'  camp  and  r 
residence  at  an  elevation  of 
12,772  feet,  known  as  the 
'Rancho  de  Tlamacas,'  an( 
it  is  just  about  as  high  above- 
the  village  as  the  summit  c'l 
Mt.  Washington  is  above  the 
Glen  House  in  the  Whitr 
Mountains.  The  aspiring 
climber  stays  over  night  at 
this  ranch,  starts  up  Popo- 
catepetl very  early  the  next 
morning,  reaches  the  crater 
and  goes  down  into  it  four 
hundred  to  five  hundred  feet  by  bucket  and  windlass,  up  out 
of  it  by  the  same  means,  and  returns  to  the  ranch  the  same 
day.  You  see  that  is  quite  a  day's  work.  The  entrance  to 
the  crater  is  at  a  height  of  17,260  feet,  and  one  has  to  make 
/n>m  the  ranch  an  ascent  equal  to  that  of  Mt.  Washington, 
more  than  half  of  it  (3,600  feet)  above  the  line  of  perpetual 
snow.     The  two  peaks  of  the  crater's  rim  are  called  '  Espinazo 


I'OI'OCAIEI'ETL    FROM    SAi  K 


179 


del  Diablo'  (the  Devil's  Backbone)  and  'Pico  Mayor'  (the 
Highest  Point).     Very  few  visitors  reach  that  point." 

"  I  should  think  that  any  one  would  be  satisfied  with  an  eleva- 
tion of  three  and  a  half  miles,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  Yes,  so  should  I,  but  then  you  know  the 

'  Youth  who  bore  mid  snow  and  ice 
The  banner  with  the  strange  device.'  " 

"  Oh,  yes,  and  I  know  what  happened  to  him." 

"  We  might  as  well  finish  up  the  volcanoes  while  we  are  talk- 
ing about  them,"  added  the  Major.  "  We  have  seen  them  in 
miniature  on  the  Alameda.  The  crater  is  oval  in  shape,  about 
two  thousand  feet  across  one  way  and  thirteen  hundred  feet  the 
other  way.  It  is  very  like  a  funnel ;  on  its  ragged  walls  are 
layers  of  lava  and  crystals  of  feldspar,  and  sulphur." 

"  It  is  not  an  active  volcano  now,  is  it  ?  " 

"  Not  very;  the  last  eruption  occurred  in  1802  ;  the  volcano 
is  just  now  taking  a  siesta,  but  all  the  time  it  is  breathing  out 
sulphur  through  a  dozen  nostrils,  each  from  eight  to  ten  inches 
in  diameter." 

"  Is  what's  her  name,  the  White  Woman,  a  volcano  too?" 

"  Probably  it  is,  although  her  crown  has  not  the  common  crater 
shape.  There  are  several  real  glaciers  on  Ixtaccihuatl,  and  it  is 
a  very  difficult  thing  to  ascend  that  mountain." 

"  You  spoke  of  a  miners'  ranch.  What  is  mined  on  the 
mountain  ?  " 

"  Sulphur ;  it  is  believed  that  Popocatepetl  is  a  bonanza,  for 
its  sulphur  is  of  superior  quality." 

"  Then  these  mountains  are  good  for  something  besides  show," 
said  the  Corporal. 

"Oh,  yes  indeed,  Cortes  found  use  for  them  in  1520;  here 
he  procured  his  supply  of  sulphur ;  and  this  was  the  great  and 
only  ice  producer  of  this  region  until  quite  recently.  Mexico, 
Puebla,  and  other  cities  obtained  their  ice  from  the  neveros  (or 

180 


snow  gatherers)  of  Amecameca  and  other  villages  near  the 
mountains.  Another  product  is  charcoal,  which  is  the  chief  and 
almost  the  only  fuel  of  this  country.  Many  men  and  burros  get 
their  living  by  making  and  transporting  it  from  the  forests." 

"  A  curious  combination  that  of  ice-house  and  sulphur  mine," 
said  the  Captain. 

The  mine  has  been  worked  steadily  since  1849  ;  the  product 
is  about  four  tons  a  month.    The  great  highway  from  the  coast  to 


the  capital  passes  now,  as  it  did  long  before  the  time  of  Cortes, 
between  the  two  volcanoes.  By  that  road,  a  highway  indeed, 
Spanish,  French,  and  American  invaders  of 'this  country  have 
marched,  and  from  those  heights  have  descended  on  its  capital. 

"  Shall  we  go  with  the  pilgrims?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Of  course,"  answered  the  Captain,  "  for  we  are  pilgrims  and 
strangers  too.     Let  us  go  with  the  pilgrims,  by  all  means." 

181 


"One  object  of  our  visit  to  Mexico,"  said  the  Major,  "  is  to 
see  the  people  as  they  are,  in  their  homes,  at  their  Dusiness,  on 
their  excursions  of  pleasure,  at  their  devotions  in  church,  at  their 
amusements,  and  now  we  shall  see  thousands  on  a  religious 
journey.  We  must  go  early  to  the  station  or  we  shall  not  find 
a  seat.     I'll  leave  orders  to  be  called." 

Up  at  five  o'clock  and  off  for  San  Lazaro  station  of  the  Inter- 
oceanic  Railway.  The  train  of  seventeen  coaches  is  packed 
twenty  minutes  before  starting  time,  and  sale  of  tickets  is 
stopped,  disappointing  hundreds  who  had  put  off  hastii  maTia?ui 
what  they  should  have  done  esfa  viahaua.  The  prudent  ones 
all  aboard  and  the  careless  ones  all  left  till  next  time,  the 
train  with  its  twelve  hundred  pilgrims  pulls  out  promptly.  A 
few  prayer-books  are  seen  in  use,  but  there  is  a  good  deal  more 
of  lunch  than  litany  going  on.  All  seem  interested  in  the  scen- 
ery ;  good  order  and  good  nature  prevail,  and  all  enjoy  themselves 
as  best  they  can. 

On  we  go  across  the  plain.  Lake  Texcoco  on  our  left  glisten- 
ing like  burnished  silver,  and  soon  arrive  at  the  famous  olive 
village  Ayotla,  on  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Chalco.  Did  you 
ever  see  such  big  olive-trees  !  Then  we  arrive  at  La  Compania, 
where  we  might  take  a  tram  car  to  the  quaint  old,  very  old 
town  of  Chalco,  dating  back  to  990,  and  where  we  do  take  on 
an  extra  locomotive  for  the  ascent  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which 
begins  here.  We  are  on  historic  ground  all  the  way,  for  this  is 
the  region  in  which  — 

"  Cities  arose,  ruled,  dwindled  to  decay, 
Empires  were  formed,  then  darl^ly  swept  away. 
Race  followed  race,  like  cloud  shades  o'er  the  field, 
The  stranger  still  to  stranger  doomed  to  yield." 

This  village  of  Amecameca  was  founded  by  the  Chichimecs  in 
A.  D.  647;  the  Toltecs  drove  them  out  in  713;  the  Aztecs 
subdued   the  Toltecs  in   885  ;  and  Cortt^s,  in   1520,  made  the 

182 


Aztecs  subjects  and  slaves  of  Spain.     How  "  like  cloud  shades 
o'er  the  field  "  have  races  come  and  gone  ! 

On  and  up  we  go  nearer  to  the  snowy  peaks  which  are  in  sight 
all  the  way,  until  we  are  so  near  that  we  can  almost  touch  them, 
and  the  train  stops  at  the  station  in  Amecameea  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  of  pilgrimage,  "  Cerro  del  Sacromonte." 

The  boom  of  cannon  and  strains  of  music  greet  the  pilgrims  ; 
the  cura  welcomes  the  leaders  of  the  host.  A  procession  is  im- 
mediately formed  and  pro-  r 
ceeds  to  the  parish  church, 
which  is  very  gayly  deco- 
rated for  the  great  occa- 
sion. The  celebration  of 
a  mass  keeps  the  pilgrims 
in  the  church  for  an  hour, 
after  which  they  scatter  in 
groups  about  the  atrium, 
or  in  the  large  yard,  for  re- 
freshments. Many  repair 
to  the  plaza,  where  the  na- 
tives are  present  in  fon  < 
with  their  merchandise  ui 
fruit,  tortillas,  lamales,  en- 
salddas,  etc.,  ready  to  sup- 
ply the  pilgrims  with  some- 
thing substantial  to  assist 
them  in  making  their  jour- 
ney to  the  shrine  on  Sacro 
Monte.  L 

"  Let  us  leave  them,"  said  the  Major,  "  and  make  our  pilgrim- 
age ahead  of  the  crowd  ;  for  when  this  great  multitude  gets  there, 
we  can  see  nothing  but  the  multitude  and  the  mountain.  We 
want  to  see  much  more,  so  let's  go  now,  taking  a  bite  of  history 
as  we  go." 


183 


Crossing  the  plaza  the  party  passed  under  the  arch  on  which 
stands  a  statue  of  Saint  Simon  Stilites,  with  a  leg  up,  which  he 
cannot  get  down. 

"  Simon  says  legs  up,"  said  the  Corporal,  as  he  gazed  at  the 
saint. 

On  the  way  to  Sacro  Monte  is  a  tile  in  the  wall  of  an  aban- 
doned chapel  on  which  are  some  grateful  words  for  the  late 
lamented  Emperor  Yturbide.  The  ascent  of  the  hill  is  made 
upon  a  broad  stone-paved  road,  quite  steep,  leading  to  the  shrine 
near  the  summit.  This  is  the  Via  Crucis,  having  a  little  chapel 
at  the  foot,  and  the  fourteen  stations  of  the  Cross  along  the  way. 
Groups  of  pilgrims  are  already  climbing  the  hill  and  kneeling  at 
each  station.  It  is  said  that  very  devout  pilgrims  make  the 
entire  journey  over  the  rough  stones  on  their  knees. 

Arriving  at  the  shrine  in  the  chapel,  illuminated  with  many 
candles  and  already  nearly  filled  with  kneeling,  praying  wor- 
shippers, the  party  saw  the  object  of  veneration,  a  life-size  image 
of  the  dead  Christ.  Some  say  that  a  pious  monk  placed  this 
image  here  about  1527  ;  others  say  that  a  mule  bearing  it  strayed 
from  a  train  which  was  carrying  sacred  things  to  Mexico,  and  was 
found  in  this  cave  ;  that  the  people  of  the  town  bought  the  image 
which  had  thus  signified  its  wish  to  remain  here,  and  placed  it  in 
a  shrine  in  the  cave.  It  is  well  authenticated  that  the  image  was 
here  before  1550;  and  hence  this  has  been  a  sacred  mount  for 
nearly  three  and  a  half  centuries  !  The  image,  made  of  cork, 
weighing  only  two  and  one  half  pounds,  is  enclosed  in  a  glass 
casket,  from  which  it  is  removed  but  once  a  year,  in  Holy 
Week.  On  Ash  Wednesday  the  image  is  brought  down  to  the 
parish  church,  where  it  remains  until  the  night  of  Good  Friday, 
when  it  is  taken  to  its  shrine.  In  Holy  Week  occurs  the  great 
festival  of  the  year.  Thousands  come  to  the  fair  which  is  then 
held  in  the  town,  and  remain  to  take  part  in  the  great  closing 
event  of  the  week,  the  return  of  the  image  to  Sacro  Monte. 
Before  its  removal  from  the  church  the   Indians   perform  a  pas- 

184 


sion  play  in  the  vestibule.  After  darkness  has  settled  on  the 
town  a  procession  is  formed,  and  amid  groans  and  prayers  the 
faithful  worshippers  escort  by  torchlight  the  sacred  relic  to  its 
resting  place  for  another  year. 

"  It  must  be  an  interesting  scene,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  It  must  be,  indeed.  I  wish  we  could  be  here  on  Good  Fri- 
day night,''  added  the  Corporal. 

"  If  we  were  we  should  not  see  a  procession,  for  a  recent  law 
forbids  religious  processions." 

"Well,  how  then  can  there  be  one  to-day?  " 

"That  will  be  different  from  the  old  one.  It  is  not  a  'pro- 
cession' within  the  meaning  of  the  law.  It  is  only 'pilgrims 
marching  along.'  It  will  not  have  the  sacred  image  with  it,  and 
perhaps  the  people  are  forgetting  the  law  for  the  day.  In  1886 
there  vi^as  no  procession  ;  a  custom  which  had  been  observed 
religiously  for  more  than  three  hundred  years  became  a  thing  of 
the  past  in  1885." 

"That  seems  too  bad,  doesn't  it?     What  harm  could  it  do?" 

"I  don't  know,  I  am  sure,"  replied  the  Major.  "In  some 
places,  the  capital,  for  instance,  where  party  spirit  runs  high  at 
times,  processions  might  be  the  means  of  doing  harm,  and  a  law 
against  them  or  any  law  must  be  enforced  in  the  corners  as  well 
as  at  the  centre  of  a  country." 

"  Do  you  know  the  origin  of  these  pilgrimages  ?  " 

"  No  ;  the  Spanish  invaders  found  the  natives  given  to  them, 
and  substituted  new  images  for  those  of  the  Aztecs  and  of  the 
other  tribes  whom  they  worked  to  convert.  What  a  magnificent 
view  this  is  !  " 

"  Ah  !  there  they  come,"  exclaimed  the  Captain,  pointing  to 
the  village.  "  They  have  left  the  plaza  already,  and  will  soon 
be  on  the  Via  Crucis,  Let's  get  a  seat  where  we  can  be  a  little 
above  and  close  to  them  as  they  pass." 

"  That  is  a  good  idea,"  said  the  Major,  "  and  let  us  study  the 
faces  of  the  pilgrims.     We  shall  see  whether  they  are  devout  or 

185 


indifferent,  whether  they  have  a  meaning  and  interest  in  what 
they  do  or  are  simply  doing  this  because  they  think  they  must 
do  it." 

The  citizens  had  made  rustic  arches  over  the  Via  Crucis  at 
several  points.  Near  the  chapel  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  was  a 
beautiful  one  made  of  leaves  and  heiw  or  Spanish  moss,  and 
bearing  the  words,  Bien  Venidos  Sean  (Welcome).  The  pro- 
cession soon  passed  under  this,  and  began  the  ascent,  the  priests 
reciting  the  Litany  of  the   Saints,  and  the  pilgrims  responding, 


Ora  pro  nobis.  M 
ages  were  represented 
in  the  solemn  march 
and  music.  The  child 
of  six  and  the  matron 
of  sixty  walked  side  by  side  bearin- 
an  equal  part  in  the  service.  Slowly 
moved  on  and  up,  bearing  various  banners  and  emblems  of  de- 
votion, to  the  sacred  shrine.  All  along  the  way  on  either  side  of 
the  procession  were  throngs  of  people,  mostly  residents  of  the 
village,  but  there  were  also  many  Indians  from  the  mountain  dis- 


ted  candles,  and  taking 
the  procession  of  pilgrims 


i86 


tricts.  These,  all  with  uncovered  heads,  moved  with  the  solemn 
procession,  apparently  as  intent  on  the  business  of  the  hour  as 
the  pilgrims  themselves.  They  joined  in  the  responses  and  in 
the  chants.  It  was  a  devout  multitude,  inspired  by  the  de- 
votion of  the  pilgrims  from  Mexico.  To  all  alike  this  was  a 
sacred  mount,  and  a  looker  on  could  hardly  fail  to  think  that 
these  devotees  were  m  their  spirit  like  those  of  the  olden 
time  who  climbed  the  holy  hill  of  Zion  to  seek  a  blessing  in 
die  Temple. 

The  company  arriving  at  the  chapel,  the  priests  celebrated  a 
solemn  mass  in  the  chapel.  The  cura  was  the  preacher 
of  the  day.  He  took  for  his  text  the  words  of  the  prodigal  son. 
Me  Icvantare  e  ire  a  mi  padre  ("  I  will  arise  and  go  to  my 
father").  The  effect  of  his  earnest  and  eloquent  words  was 
manifest  in  the  faces  of  his  hearers.  Many  were  moved  to 
tears.  After  the  discourse,  the  multitude  scattered  about  the 
hill  in  groups  for  refreshments ;  it  was  pleasing  to  see  so  many 
family  groups.  All  the  people  seemed  happy ;  they  were  not 
over-serious,  but  were  free  from  levity  and  were  remarkably 
quiet. 

At  two  o'clock  the  pilgrims  gathered  again  about  the  chapel, 
where  there  was  a  most  happy  surprise  awaiting  them  at  the 
hands  of  the  cura.  He  granted  them  the  greatest  favor  in 
his  power,  and  one  that  nobody  had  dared  to  ask,  namely,  to 
touch  and  to  kiss  the  sacred  image.  The  cura  and  priests  took 
the  image  from  the  casket  and  placed  it  on  a  bier  prepared  for 
it.  Gentlemen  begged  the  privilege  of  being  bearers.  The  bier 
was  placed  in  front  of  the  sanctuary,  and  there  it  was  permitted 
to  as  many  as  could  reach  it  to  touch  and  kiss  the  feet  of  the 
image.  All  could  not  do  so,  but  hundreds  gratified  their  holy 
desire.  The  time  for  departure  approaching,  the  cura  took 
the  image  in  his  arms  and  stepping  upon  a  platform  showed 
it  to  the  multitude  as  a  sign  of  blessing.  This  act  deeply 
impressed  everybody,  and  many  were  moved  to  tears  and  sobs. 

187 


The  cura  then  dismissed  the  pilgrims  with  his  benediction,  and 
they  left  the  shrine  with  every  sign  of  satisfaction  and  happiness. 
It  was  a  day  of  a  lifetime  to  many,  no  doubt,  and  children's 
children  will  hear  of  this  notable  pilgrimage  to  Sacro  Monte  in 
August,  1892. 


vi-^WffiWBWMKarG''     1*4?^ 


CHURCH    (.)F    GUADALUPE. 


XII. 

"They  say  miracles  are  past." 

Airs    IVell   That  Ends    Well. 

"The  great  world's  altar  stairs 
That  slope  through  darkness  up  to  God." 

In  Memoriam. 

yER  the  northern  causeway  devout  pilgrims 
from  Tenochtitlan,  in  892,  went   to  the 
sacred  hill  Tepeyacac ;    over  nearly  the 
same  ground  to  the  same  place,  now 
known  as  Guadalupe,  do  pilgrims  and 
strangers  make  their  journey  in  1892. 
On   this   hill    there  was,  a  thousand 
years  ago,  a  sanctuary  dedicated   to 
the  deity  called  sometimes  "Mother 
of  the  Gods,"  sometimes  "Goddess 
of  Corn,"  and  sometimes  "The  Fruit- 
bearer."      The    Spaniards    destroyed 
the  sanctuary  and  also  the  causeway, 
^  but  the  natives  continued  to  worship 
their   images    there.      The    devoted 
»i\  l\    \ /"^-^ '"^^^  missionaries  lamented  this,  and  in  due 

time,  here,  as  at   Quer^taro,  they  substituted  a  new  object  of 
worship  for  the  old ;    "  in  the  place  of  the  heathen  Mother  of 


Gods  was  put  the  Christian  God-mother."  A  Spanish  historian 
tells  the  miraculous  tale  of  how  the  change  was  accomplished  to 
the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned. 

On  Dec.  9,  1531,  Saturday,  an  Indian,  Juan  Diego  by 
name,  when  going  to  mass  heard  the  angels  singing  as  he 
passed  this  hill.  A  glorious  Lady  called  him  and  told  him  to  go 
to  the  bishop  and  say  that  she  wished  to  have  a  temple  built 
where  she  was  standing.  Juan  delivered  the  message,  but  the 
bishop  desired  further  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  Indian's 
story.  Juan  returned  to  the  hill  and  reported  what  the  bishop 
said.  The  Lady  told  the  Indian  to  come  again.  He  came 
the  next  day,  Sunday,  the  loth,  and  a  second  time  she  sent  him 
with  the  same  message  to  the  bishop,  who  told  Juan  to  bring 
some  voucher  from  the  Lady.  Juan  reported  again,  and  the 
Lady  told  him  to  come  to  her  the  next  day,  and  she  would 
give  him  all  the  proof  he  needed  to  convince  the  bishop. 
When  Juan  arrived  home  he  found  there  his  uncle  very  sick ;  he 
gave  his  whole  attention  to  him  and  did  not  return  to  the  Lady 
the  next  day.  The  sick  man  grew  worse,  and  Juan  started  on  the 
morning  of  the  12th  to  call  a  priest,  and  he  tried  to  avoid 
another  meeting  with  the  Lady  by  going  to  town  by  a  path  on  the 
other  side  of  the  hill.  But  he  did  not  escape.  The  Lady  stopped 
him.  He  said  he  was  in  a  hurry,  going  for  a  confessor  for  his 
dying  uncle.  She  told  him  that  he  need  not  worry  about  his 
uncle,  for  he  had  recovered  his  health,  and  then  she  commanded 
him  to  gather  the  flowers  at  his  feet.  Lo  !  there  were  flowers 
on  the  barren  spot  where  nothing  green  had  ever  grown  before. 
"  Take  these  flowers  to  the  bishop,"  she  said,  "  they  are  the 
sign  of  my  divinity."  Juan  took  the  flowers  in  his  fi'/ma  (or 
blanket)  and  carried  them  to  the  bishop's  house.  When  he 
opened  the  blanket  to  show  the  flowers,  behold  there  appeared 
on  it  a  beautifully  painted  image  of  the  Virgin  !  What  further 
sign  could  the  bishop  ask?  Verily  this  was  the  Virgin,  the  Holy 
Mary,  and  she  it  was  who  wished  to  have  a  chapel  built  at  the 

190 


hill  where  the  Mother  of  the  Gods  had  been  worshipped  !  If 
the  bishop  was  convinced,  what  of  the  Indian?  The  sing- 
ing of  angels,  the  vision  and  the  voice  of  the  Lady,  the 
flowers  blooming  on  a  ro^k,  and  the  image  on  his  tilina!  (was 
ever  Indian  blanket  or  canvas  of  artist  so  glorified?)  and  his 
uncle  restored  to  health  !  Could  an  Indian  resist  such  over- 
whelming evidences?  Verily  this  is  a  true  divinity,  and  hence- 
forth she  shall  be  worshipped  at  Tepeyacac.  The  bishop  kept 
the  tibna  of  Juan  Diego,  on  which 
was  the  miraculous  painting,  in  his 
oratory  till  he  had  built  a  chapel 
for  the  Lady,  and  then  he  placed 
the   holy   image    there    February   7, 

1533- 

"A  remarkable  story,"  said  the 
Captain,  "  but  why  the  name  Gua- 
dalupe? " 

"Ah,  the  bishop  saw  that  the 
painting  was  a  copy  of  the  sacred 
image  of  Seiiora  de  Guadalupe,  the 
Virgin  of  a  village  in  Spain,  famous 
in  church  annals." 

"And  was  the  Indian  converted?" 
asked  the  Corporal. 

"Yes;  he  and  his  wife  and  his  uncle,  all  three,  and,  of  course, 
in  time  everybody  worshipped  here  the  new  divinity." 

"What  and  where  is  this  painting  or  image  now?"  asked  the 
Captain. 

"We  are  on  our  way  to  see  it.  It  is  a  painting  on  a  coarse 
canvas,  about  six  feet  long  and  three  feet  wide.  Whether  it  is 
an  oil  painting  or  a  water  color  cannot  be  determined.  Artists 
who  have  examined  it  differ  in  their  beliefs  as  to  the  method  of 
making  the  picture." 

"Can  we  see  it?"  asked  the  Corporal. 


191 


"Certainly;  it  is  in  a  frame  of  gold  and  silver  inside  a  glass 
case,  which  is  placed  in  the  tabernacle  of  the  big  church  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  called  the  church  of  Nuestra  Sehora  de  Guada- 
lupe. This  church  took  the  place  of  the  little  chapel  which  the 
bishop  built.  Well,  here  we  are  at  the  end  of  the  track,  and 
in  front  of  the  church.  We  will  go  and  see  the  tilma  and  its 
magnificent  residence,  and  then  visit  two  or  three  other  points 
of  interest  here.     This  is  an  important  place  for  a  little  one." 


"Why,  this  is  a  magnificent  cathedral !  "  said  the  Captain, 
when  they  had  entered  it.  "  I  think  it  is  finer  than  the  great 
one  in  the  city." 

"It  shows  better  having  so  fine  a  light,  and  the  white  and 
gold  finishing  makes  it  very  attractive  to  the  eye." 


192 


"There  is  the  tilma,''  said  the  Major,  pointing  to  the  beautiful 
tabernacle  of  Carrara  marble.  "  Look  at  it  carefully,  for  that 
picture  is  no  more  notable  in  the  church  than  it  is  in  the 
political  history  of  Mexico.  You  may  see  here  how  an  institu- 
tion grows  with  time.  The  story  of  the  appearance  being  be- 
lieved, this  Virgin  soon  became  the  object  of  the  greatest 
veneration,  most  of  all  to  the 
Indians,  who  on  every  12th 
of  December,  for  over  three 
hundred  and  fifty  years,  have 
come  by  the  thousands  to  this 
shrine  to  worship.  A  hun- 
dred years  after  its  establish- 
ment the  pope  granted  that 
that  day  should  be  forever,  in 
the  church  calendar,  the  festi- 
val of  the  Virgin  of  Mexico. 
A  hundred  years  later  still  the 
clergy  and  people  solemnly 
chose  her  as  the  patroness 
and  protector  of  the  country. 
In  1754,  the  pope  confirmed 
the  people's  choice,  and  this  gave  the  Virgin 
Guadalupe  the  highest  place  in  the  church  calendar 
in  New  Spain.  When  Hidalgo  started  on  his  cam- 
paign against  the  Royalists  in  18 10,  he  took  for  his 
banner  a  picture  of  this  Virgin  from  the  little  church 
at  Atotonilco.  The  patriots  rallied  under  that  ban-  [ 
ner,  and  so  the  Virgin  became  the  patroness  of  indepcndem  c. 
She  was  now  regarded  as  peculiarly  the  champion  of  Mexico 
against  Spain,  and  when  independence  was  gained  she  was  ac- 
corded all  possible  devotion  for  her  divine  assistance.  She 
became  now  to  the  new  nation  the  savior  of  Mexico.  Congress, 
among  its  first  acts,  made  the  festival  of  Dec.  1 2  a  national  holi- 


193 


day.  Emperor  Yturbide  created,  as  highest  decoration  of  his 
court,  the  Order  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe.  The  first  Presi- 
dent of  the  Republic  changed  his  name  to  Guadalupe  Victoria. 
The  Emperor  Maximilian  and  several  of  the  Presidents  have 
made  official  pilgrimages  to  this  shrine.  From  this  you  can 
see  how  it  is  that  this  has  come  to  be  '  the  holiest  shrine  in 
Mexico.'" 

Passing  out  of  the  church  and  through  the  market  place,  the 
party  now  went  to  the  "chapel  of  the  little  well"  (Capilla  del 
Pocito).  This  is  a  small  but  handsome  building  with  an  enam- 
elled tile  roof  which  makes  it  an  important  feature  of  the  view 
from  the  hill  above.  In  the  vestibule  of  the  chapel  is  a  spring 
greatly  venerated  by  the  Indians,  for  they  believe  that  this 
spring"  was  created  by  the  pressure  of  the  Virgin's  foot  as  she 
emphasized  her  message  to  the  bishop.  There  is  an  iron  railing 
and  a  covering  protecting  the  spring,  but  the  chained  bucket  is 
in  constant  use  by  residents  and  visitors  in  drawing  water,  much 
of  which  is  taken  to  distant  parts.  Many  American  visitors  take 
or  send  home  some  of  it.  The  chapel  is  well  lighted  and  has, 
therefore,  a  cheerful  appearance.  An  image  of  Juan  Diego  sup- 
ports the  beautiful  carved  pulpit,  and  fair  pictures  adorn  the 
walls  and  dome. 

The  ascent  to  the  "chapel  of  the  little  hill"  (Capilla  del  Cer- 
rito)  begins  near  the  door  of  this  "chapel  of  the  little  well."  A 
long  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  to  the  summit  on  which  the 
chapel  stands,  on  the  spot  where  the  Indian  gathered  the  flowers. 

As  the  party  approached  the  top,  the  Corporal  exclaimed, 
"What  in  the  w-orld  is  that?  a  ship  up  here  on  the  hill?" 

"It  does  look  like  it,  doesn't  it?" 

"  It  really  does,"  said  the  Captain.  "  I  saw  that  from  below 
and  wondered  at  it,  but  forgot  to  ask  about  it.  From  a  distance 
it  looks  exactly  like  the  mast  of  a  ship  with  sails  set." 

"That  is  what  it  is  intended  to  represent,"  said  the  Major. 
"  It  is  a  voto,  if  you  please.     This  huge  mass  of  stone  means 

194 


just  what  the  little  splinter  crosses  in  the  cave  and  the  crutches 
in  the  chapel  mean.  Somebody  has  been  saved,  and  these  are 
memorials  of  gratitude  to  the  Virgin  for  deliverance.  The  story 
of  this  stone  sail  is  that  some  sailors  who  were  threatened  with 
shipwreck  prayed  to  this  Virgin  for  preservation,  and  promised 
to  bring  the  mast  of  their  ship  and  set  it  up  as  evidence  of  her 
power  and  of  their  gratitude,  if  she  would  give  them  safe  pas- 
sage.    They  reached  the  land,  and  here  is  their  memorial." 

"  Well,  that  is  certainly  a  curious  thing,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  I  don't  believe  there  is  anything  like  it  anywhere  else,"  said 
the  Captain.    "I  have  never 
heard  of  such  a  monument." 

The  chapel  on  the  hill  is 
not  a  very  attractive  build- 
ing without  or  within,  but  of 
course  every  one  must  visit 
it.  The  view  from  the  plat- 
form in  front  of  it  is  charm- 
ing. It  includes,  besides 
the  village  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  a  look  over  the  city 
of  Mexico,  the  Lake  of  Tex- 
coco,  and  the  valley  be- 
yond, ending,  as  every  out- 
look from  any  eminence 
hereabout  must  end,  in  the 
snow-capped  summits  of  the  volcanoes, 
views  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 

"What  are  these  women  selling?"  asked  the  Corporal,  as  the 
party  came  down  the  steps  from  the  chapel. 

"  Qiiesadillas,  try  some  of  them  ;  they  are  good.      They  are 
little  tortillas,  Indian  corn  sweet  cakes.     We  shall  come  across 
some  mud  sellers  pretty  soon,  and  you  can  try  \\\€\x  jabon." 
"  Mud  sellers  !     What  do  you  mean?" 


IN    THE   GROTl^O. 


It  is  one  of  the  notable 


195 


"  I  mean  exactly  that.  Not  only  is  the  water  of  the  little 
well  considered  holy,  but  the  earth  about  it  is  believed  to  have 
wonderful  healing  power.  The  natives  eat  it,  and,  of  course, 
somebody  will  make  what  anybody  will  buy  ;  hence  you  can  get, 
if  you  wish,  little  cakes  of  tierritar 

"  Not  any  for  me,  thanks,  but  these  sweet  cakes  are  fine." 

After  visiting  the  little  cave  or  grotto  on  the  west  side  of  the 
hill,  where  is  a  curious  display  of  broken  glass  and  china  in 
mosaics,  the  party  took  a  stroll  through  the  pretty  park  in  the 
plaza,  went  to  the  old  convent  near  the  chapel  of  the  well,  took 
a  peep  into  the  windowless  stone  cells  where  the  Capuchin  nuns 
used  to  sleep  on  benches  of  stone,  and  returned  to  the  city, 
where  they  visited  some  schools. 

On  the  way  the  Corporal  said,  "  We  shall  be  too  late,  I  am 
afraid.     It  is  now  nearly  four  o'clock." 

"  Time  enough,"  said  the  Major.  "  The  schools  here  are  in 
session  until  dark." 


196 


XIII. 


c 


"Not  once  or  twice  in  our  rough  island  story 
The  path  of  duty  was  the  way  to  glory." 

Ode  on  the  death  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 

IHAPULTEPEC  to-day  !  "  exclaimed  the  Captain. 
"  I  expect  a  treat." 

"  You  will  not  be  disappointed.  It  is  all  your 
fancy  has  painted  it,  and  more,"  said  the  Major. 
Unless  one  wishes  the  ride  through  the  Paseo, 
no  carriage  is  needed  for 
the  trip  to  Chapultepec,  as 
the  Tacubaya  and  San  An- 
gel street  cars  pass  one  of 
the  entrances  to  the  park, 
and  the  visitor  should  walk 
rather  than  ride  through 
the  grove  of  cypresses  if 
he  wishes  to  get  the  finest 
views.  Afternoon  is  the 
best  time  to  go  to  the  hill,  but  the  view  from  it  is  lovely  at  any 
time.  The  park  is  open  daily  between  5  a,  m.  and  7  p.  m.,  but 
a  permit  is  necessary  for  admittance  to  the  castle.  This  permit 
may  be  obtained  at  the  office  of  the  "  Governor  of  the  Palace  " 
in  the  National  Palace.  Chapultepec  (the  hill  of  the  grass- 
hopper) is  a  bold  projection  of  porphyry,  rising  about  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  valley.  It  was  once  an  island  in  Lake 
Texcoco,  but  is  fully  four  miles  from  the  present  shore.  The 
Aztecs,  who  gave  it  the  name  which  it  now  bears,  occupied  it  in 


197 


12  79,  were  driven  from  it  by  a  neighboring  tribe,  but  later 
regained  it  and  built  a  temple  on  its  summit.  Some  of  the 
princes  had  their  effigies  carved  on  the  rocks ;  a  part  of  one  can 
still  be  seen  on  the  eastern  base  of  the  hill.  On  the  south  side 
is  a  large  spring  which  is  the  water  supply  of  part  of  the  city. 
On  the  north  side  near  the  driveway  to  the  castle  is  a  large 
cave,  which  was  the  sanctuary  of  Malintzin,  the  spirit  of  the 
murmuring  spring.  The  cave  is  said  to  be  connected  with  the 
castle    by  a  passage.     The  driveway  winds  round  the    western 


end  of  the  hill  and  terminates  on  the  south  side  at  the  entrance 
to  the  castle  grounds.  There  is  the  West  Point  of  Mexico,  the 
National  Military  School. 

"This  is  the  pride  of  young  Mexico  I  suppose,"  said  the 
Captain,  as  he  saw  some  of  the  handsome  and  handsomely 
uniformed  cadets. 

"  Yes,  and  the  pride  of  the  whole  nation.  There  are  about 
three  hundred  young  soldiers  here." 

"  A  lot  of  fine  fellows  in  a  fine  place,"  added  the   Corporal. 


198 


"  Yes,  and  they  are  ready  to  fight  at  any  moment  in  defence 
of  their  country,  as  were  their  predecessors  in  1847.  At  the  foot 
of  the  hill  is  a  beautiful  memorial  to  the  cadets  who  fell  in  battle 
at  the  storming  of  Chapultepec.  The  students  make  the  anni- 
versary of  the  battle  a  memorial  day,  and  the  President  places  a 
wreath  on  the  monument.  The  cadets  and  the  nation  are  justly 
proud  of  the  record  of  its  young  soldiers." 

•'  Has  Mexico  much  of  an  army?"  asked  the  Captain. 


"About  thirty  thousand  men  and  about  three  thousand  officers, 
all  told.  It  includes  thirty  battalions  of  infantry,  fourteen  regi- 
ments of  cavalry,  four  battalions  of  artillery,  and  other  organiza- 
tions, the  most  notable  of  which  is  the  corps  of  gendarmes, 
known  as  the  '  Rurales.'  This  is  the  finest  body  of  horse- 
men in  the  world.  It  consists  of  about  two  thousand  men,  the 
best  riders  in  Mexico,  and  on  the  annual  display  of  troops  at 
the   celebration  of   independence    the    'Rurales'  are   the   chief 


199 


attraction  of  the  parade.  They  are  handsomely  mounted  on 
spirited  horses  and  wear  a  tawny  leather  suit  with  the  tall  gray 
felt  sombrero,  both  properly  ornamented  with  silver.  There  is 
nothing  like  the  '  Rurales  '  outside  of  Mexico.  Besides  the  active 
army  there  are  about  one  hundred  thousand  reserves  ready  for 
an  emergency,  which,  let  us  hope,  will  not  occur  soon." 

"What  about  the  navy?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"The  Mexican  navy  is  not  formidable,  my  boy,  for  the  whole 
fleet  comprises  only  six  vessels  :  four  of  these  are  small  gun- 
boats and  two  are  unarmored  vessels  of  four  hundred  and  fifty 
tons  and  six  hundred  horse-power.  It  may  interest  you  to  know, 
however,  that  the  army  and  navy  of  Mexico  cost  about  twelve 
million  dollars  a  year,  nearly  one  third  of  the  total  revenue  of 
the  government." 

"Beautiful  front,  this  is  really  a  palace,"  exclaimed  the  Cor- 
poral. "What  is  that  firing  on  the  left?  Is  some  one  storming 
Chapultepec?  " 

"  Oh,  that  is  target  practice,  I  presume  !  What  a  splendid 
parade  ground  !     Yes,  this  is  really  a  palace,  dating  from  1785." 

"Where  does  the  President  live?  "  asked  the  Captain. 

"The  eastern  end  of  the  castle  is  his  residence  pait  of  the 
year.     Isn't  this  a  magnificent  establishment? 

"  Can  we  get  into  the  big  White  House  ?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Yes,  we  have  a  pass,  and  we  were  lucky  to  get  it.  Very 
often  visitors  can  get  no  farther  than  the  gate,  because  of  repairs. 
It  seems  as  if  they  were  making  repairs  here  three  fourths  of  the 
time." 

"  Well  this  is  beautiful  and  no  mistake  !"  exclaimed  the  Cap- 
tain, as  the  party  went  through  the  arcade  and  the  garden,  past 
the  fountain  out  to  the  north  terrace. 

"This  modern  work  is  due  to  Maximilian,"  said  the  Major. 
"Notice  the  Pompeiian  style.  What  beautiful  marble  !  This  is 
fine  enough  for  a  king  !  What  a  royal  retreat !  It  has  been  a 
home  of  rulers  for  more  than  six  hundred  years." 


"  Please  tell  us  something  about  the  President." 
"Porfirio  Diaz  was  born  in  Oaxaca  in  1830.  His  ancestors 
were  Spaniards,  who  came  to  Mexico  in  152 1.  The  grandfather 
of  his  mother  married  an  Indian  woman,  and  thus  he  represents 
in  his  person  to  some  degree  the  Spanish  and  the  Indian  races. 
His  father  died  in  1833,  leaving  his  mother  with  five  children 
and  very  little  property.  The  boy  was  trained  for  the  church ; 
he  was  a  student  for  five  years  in  the  seminary,  and  graduated 
from  it  at  the  age  of  nineteen.  He  did  not,  however,  take 
orders,  but,  to  the  great  grief  of  the  bishop  and  the  greater 
sorrow  of  his  mother,  he  decided  to  become  a  lawyer  rather  than 
a  priest.  When  a  student  in  the  seminary  he  and  his  mates  had 
volunteered  in  1847,  and  asked  to  be  sent  to  the  front  to  fight 
the  invading  foe  under  Gen.  Scott.  In  the  disturbed  times 
between  1849  and  1859  he  was  frequently  in  battle,  and  attained 
to  the  rank  of  colonel.  He  was  sent  to  Congress  in  i860,  but 
left  for  the  field  again,  where  he  was  first  victor  and  then  prisoner, 
now  captive  and  then  conqueror,  in  the  next  two  or  three  years ; 
but  finally  gained  lasting  renown  and  the  highest  rank  in  the 
army  by  the  capture  of  Puebla  and  the  French  army  in  1867. 
The  French  were  driven  from  Mexico,  and  Juarez  resumed  his 
office  in  the  capital  as  a  result  of  this  great  victory.  Gen. 
Diaz  resigned  his  command,  returned  to  Oaxaca,  married  Sra. 
Delfina  Ortega  y  Reyes,  and  spent  some  time  in  retirement  at 
his  Hacienda  La  Noria.  He  was  again  elected  to  Congress 
from  Oaxaca. 

"When  Juarez  died  in  1872,  Lerdo  was  elected  President,  but 
Gen.  Diaz  became  the  leader  of  the  opposition  to  Lerdo,  and 
after  a  series  of  romantic  and  remarkable  experiences,  drove 
Lerdo  from  power  and  became  President  in  1877.  His  first  term 
ended  in  1880,  during  which  year  he  los't  his  wife.  Gen.  Gonza- 
lez was  President  from  1880-84,  when  Gen.  Diaz  was  re-elected, 
and  has  been  President  ever  since  that  time,  having  been  re- 
elected in  1892  for  another  term  of  four  years.     He  married  in 


i882  his  present  wife,  Carmen  Romero  Rubio,  daughter  of  the 
Secretary  of  the  Interior  in  his  Cabinet.  She  is  the  pet  of  the 
people  and  the  pride  of  Mexico  as  well  as  of  the  President. 

"  Gen.  Diaz  is  a  wise  ruler  and  a  patriot,  whose  ambition  is 
to  serve  his  country  well.  Mexico  has  been  regenerated  and 
reinstated  among  the  nations  of  the  earth  under  his  sagacious 
and  firm  leadership.  His  administration  has  been  and  is  re- 
markable for  its  energy  and  honesty.  He  well  deserves  the 
honors  which  his  people  have  so  repeatedly  awarded  him. 
Mexico  seems  to  believe,  with  Robert  Browning,  that  '  He  who 
did  well  in  war  earned  the  right  to  begin  (and  continue)  doing 
well  in  peace.'     Long  live  President  Diaz  !  " 

"He  has  a  fine  record,"  said  the  Captain.  "  I  don't  wonder 
the  people  want  to  keep  him  in  charge  of  the  country." 

"  Take  in  this  view,  boys.  I  will  point  out  some  of  the  places 
that  we  can  see.  Away  in  the  northeast  is  the  sacred  hill  of 
Guadalupe,  with  its  little  chapel  on  the  summit.  There  is  the 
long  aqueduct.  How  they  build  things  to  stay  in  this  country  ! 
Those  nine  hundred  arches  were  put  up  in  1607,  and  there  they 
are  yet." 

"  Isn't  there  another  aqueduct  on  the  other  side  of  the 
castle?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"  Yes,  that  conveys  the  water  from  the  great  spring  just  at  the 
foot  of  this  hill.  It  was  completed  in  1779  by  that  best  of  all 
the  viceroys,  Bucareli,  whose  tomb  we  saw  at  Guadalupe.  If  all 
the  viceroys  had  been  like  him,  Mexico  would  never  have  had 
any  reason  to  rebel  against  Spanish  rule." 

"These  two  aqueducts  can't  supply  the  city,  can  they?  "  said 
the  Corporal. 

"  No,  not  wholly.  There  are  hundreds  of  artesian  wells 
besides,  and  Mexico  has  good  water.  Yonder  is  Tacuba, 
where  the  Spaniards  made  a  halt  on  the  Noche  Triste.  Just 
north  are  the  two  very  old  places,  Atzcapatzalco  and  Tlalnepantla, 
once  famous  seats  of  royal  power." 


202 


Crossing  now  to  the  south  terrace,  the  Major  continued, — 
"  What  a  view  this  is ;  see  the  chain  of  little  towns  along  the 
foot-hills ;  this  one  nearest  us  is  Tacubaya,  sometimes  called 
the  city  of  the  martyrs  ;  the  martyrs  being  certain  parties  who 
lost  their  heads  for  taking  the  wrong  side  in  politics.  It  is  now 
a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence  for  the  wealthy  families  of 
Mexico." 

"  I  see,"  said  the  Captain,  "  that  one  guide-book  says, 
'  Tacubaya  is  known  as  the  city  of  political  martyrs,  of  gardens, 
and  of  gambling  places.'  " 


"  That  is  a  variety  of  attractions,  isn't  it?  The  martyrs  arc 
represented  by  a  small  monument ;  the  gardens  are  mostly 
hidden  behind  thick  and  high  walls,  and  the  gambling  places 
are  open  to  the  public,  but  we  don't  want  anything  in  that  line, 
do  we?" 

To  the  right  you  see  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  the  walls  of 
the   Panteon  de   Dolores,  the   largest  cemetery  in  Mexico.     It 


203 


belongs  to  the  Federal  District,  comprises  nearly  two  hundred 
and  fifty  acres,  and  is  divided  into  six  parts,  in  each  of  which 
the  price  of  lots  varies.  The  highest  priced  lots  are  those 
near  the  space  reserved  for  distinguished  men,  the  "  Rotunda 
de  los  Hombres  Ilustres."  Some  illustrious  men  are  buried 
there,  among  them  two  Presidents,  Arista  and  Lerdo.  The 
grounds  are  amply  shaded  by  pines,  cedars,  and  eucalyptus 
trees.  The  cemetery  was  opened  in  1875,  and  since  that  time 
more  than  one  hundred  thousand  interments  have  been  made 
there. 

Beyond  Tacubaya  south  is  a  region  given  to  gardening.  You 
can  see  Mixcoac,  the  first  village,  and  just  west  of  it  is  La 
Castenada,  a  public  garden  and  pleasure  resort.  Here  they 
have  mimic  bull  fights  sometimes,  no  killing,  but  a  good  deal  of 
bothering  of  the  animal,  plenty  of  pulque  and  mescal,  and 
also  plenty  of  gambling. 

Farther  south,  and  eight  miles  from  the  city,  is  the 
retty  village  of  San  Angel  on  the  side  of  the  hills. 
Orchards  abound   there ;    for  that  is   the  region 
which  supplies  the  city  with  most  of  its  apples, 
peaches,  apricots,  and  pears,  and  also  its  straw- 
berries.    The  flower  market,  too,  gets  a  large  part 
of  its  supply  from  San  Angel  and  vicinity. 
"What   is   that  place  away  beyond  San  Angel  a  little  east?  " 
asked  the  Captain ;  "  I  see  a  train  going  down  the  valley  towards 
it." 

"  That  is  Tlalpam,  eleven  miles  from  Mexico.     It  was   once 
the  capital  of  the  state  of  Mexico." 

"  What  is  the  capital  of  the  state  now?  " 
"  The  city  of  Toluca,  over  the  mountains  west  of  us.  You 
see  a  village  exactly  in  line  between  us  and  Tlalpam,  east  of 
San  Angel  ?  That  is  Coyoacan,  and  right  close  to  it  is  Churubusco. 
You  see  that  great  hacienda  building  near  the  church  ?  We  will 
go  down  that  way,  taking  two  or  three  days  for  excursions  about 


204 


I\     IKiH'iCAL    MEXICO. 


J 


that  part  of  the  valley,  but  I'll  tell  you  something  about  it  while 
we  are  looking  it  over  from  this  hill. 

"Cortes  lived  at  Coyoacan.  All  this  section  that  we  are 
looking  at  belonged  to  him  once.  You  know  Emperor  Charles 
V.  made  him  Marquis  del  Valle  de  Oaxaca,  but  Cortes  took  in 
a  good  share  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  Coyoacan  is  older  than 
the  city  of  Mexico,  and  was  the  seat  of  government  for  some 
time.  The  Marquis  got  rid  of  his  wife  there  by  drowning  her 
in  a  well.  Part  of  his  palace  is  still  used  by  the  village  govern- 
ment. It  occupies  the  north  side  |  of  the  plaza.  No  section 
of  the  valley  is  so  attractive  as  this 
Churubusco.  It  is  one  continuous 
garden,  and  many  of  the  best  fami- 
lies of  the  city  own  or  rent 
summer  places  there."  JT-'! 


between    San    Angel   and 


HOME  OF   CORTES. 


"  What  is  that  solitary  hill  away  to  our  left,  east  of  Coyoacan  ? 
It  is  a  little  beauty." 

"  That,  my  boy,  is  the  hill  which  you  enjoyed  so  much  the 
day  we  went  to  Ixtapalapa ;  that  is  the  '  Hill  of  the  Star.'  You 
know  I  told  you  that  Cuauhtemoc  was  living  there  when  Cortt^s 
came,  but  I  don't  think  I  told  you  that  he  was  an  exile  there. 
Montezuma,  his  uncle,  banished  him  for  political  reasons.  The 
prince  wished  to  drive  out  the  Spaniards,  but  Montezuma  seems 
to  have   been  the  victim  of  superstition,  and  feared  that  he 


205 


would  offend  the  gods  by  opposing  the  white  visitors.  At  last 
Montezuma  was  deposed  and  Cuauhtemoc  attempted  to  save  the 
empire,  but  it  was  too  late.     Cuauhtemoc  was,  like  Cato,  — 

"  A  brave  man  struggling  in  the  storms  of  fate, 
And  greatly  falling  with  a  falling  state." 

It  was  at  Coyoacan  that  Cortt^s  tortured  and  killed  •'  the 
tzin,'  and  his  companion  whose  name  appears  on  the  beautiful 
monument  in  the  Paseo.     You  can  see  the  lava  bed  just  south 

of  Coyoacan,"  continued    the 

^^f>'^'""^'  '^'^^^^^^^^^^^H  M^jor  i  "  it  is  called  the /'^rtV.f- 
^-     ''-  '^  ■'■'"  i"i*i I i^^^^^^^^^B  ^a/ (the  stony  place).    By  some 

convulsion  the  lava  has  been 
projected  at  that  point  into  the 
valley  ;  it  is  said  that  pieces  of 
pottery  and  also  human  bones 
have  been  found  enclosed  in 
the  lava.  The  basaltic  blocks 
from  which  the  Calendar  Stone 
and  the  Sacrificial  Stone  are 
hewn  came  from  this  locality. 
It  is  an  interesting  point  to 
visit." 

"  Great  view  this  from  the 
south  terrace,"  said  the  Cor- 
poral. "  It  is  prettier  than  that 
from  the  north  side." 

"  Perhaps  it  is,"  replied  the 
Major,  "  but  we  have  looked  at  distant  things  so  much  that  we 
have  almost  forgotten  the  things  close  by.  Look  at  these  great 
trees.  They  are  among  the  wonders  of  Mexico ;  they  are  what 
we  call  the  cypress  tree.  The  Indian  name,  however,  is  Alute- 
huete,  or  Sabino ;  it  grows  very  large,  as  you  see.  There  is  an 
immense  one  in  this  grove  called   Montezuma's  tree ;    it  is  a 


206 


double  growth,  a  kind  of  twin  tree.  Humboldt  tells  of  one  that 
he  measured  in  1804;  it  was  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in 
circumference.  The  moss  and  the  orchids  which  are  often  seen 
upon  these  trees  give  them  a  strangely  beautiful  appearance.  At 
the  foot  of  this  stairway  there  is  a  little  zoological  garden  which 
we  will  look  into  ;  Montezuma's  spring  and  the  monument  of  the 
cadets  are  near  by." 

"  And  is  there  still  another  view  to  get  from  Chapultepec?" 
asked  the  Corporal. 

"Yes,  the  best  one  of  all.  You  haven't  seen  the  city  of 
Mexico  yet,  have  you?  nor  the  volcanoes  I  believe,  nor  the 
lakes  ?  We  take  in  nearly  all  we  have  already  seen,  and  those 
crowning  beauties  besides,  from  the  eastern  terrace." 

And  so  the  boys  found  it.  At  the  foot  of  the  precipitous  hill, 
on  the  brow  of  which  the  eastern  end  of  the  palace  stands,  and 
immediately  in  front,  the  grand  Paseo  commences.  On  either 
side  at  some  little  distance  are  two  calzadas,  or  driveways, 
marked,  like  the  Paseo,  by  continuous  avenues  of  trees  ;  on  the 
north  the  Calzada  de  la  Veronica,  with  the  ancient  aqueduct  of 
Santa  F^ ;  on  the  south  the  Calzada  de  Chapultepec,  with  the 
great  aqueduct  from  the  water  works  just  below  the  castle. 
Yonder  is  the  gray  city,  gleaming  in  the  afternoon  sunlight. 
The  Alameda  and  the  Plaza  Mayor  look  like  little  meadows  in 
the  distance,  and  the  great  Cathedral  towers  stand  out  against 
the  background  of  lake  and  mountain  like  sentinels  on  guard. 
Above  the  valley  the  snow-covered  peaks  pierce  the  sky,  and 
dominate  the  landscape. 

"This  is  a  wonderful  sight !  "  said  the  Captain. 

"  If  I  had  seen  nothing  but  this,"  added  the  Corporal,  "  I 
should  say  it  is  worth  a  trip  from  Boston  to  see." 

"  It  certainly  is.  I  think  you  will  agree  that  Bayard  Taylor, 
who  had  looked  upon  most  of  the  wonderful  sights  of  three  con- 
tinents, was  about  right  when  he  said  that  this  is  'one  of  the 
loveliest  scenes  in  the  civilized  world.'  " 


207 


XIV. 


"  Oh,  the  pleasure  travel  brings  !  " 

yean  de  Paris. 

"Survey  our  empire,  and  behold  our  home. 
These  are  our  realms,  no  limit  to  their  sway." 

77^1?  Corsair. 

JOURNEYS  to  more  distant  places  must  now  be  made, 
and  we  will    indicate  briefly  a  few  of  those  which  no 
visitor  to  Mexico  should  omit.     On  the  National  Rail- 
way,   two    points    especially    demand    attention.    Lake 
.     ^r^      Patzcuaro  and  Toluca.     The  lake  is  two  hun 
Ired  and  twenty-five  miles  from  the  city 
of  Mexico,  but  is  worth  going  to  see. 
Toluca  is  only  forty- six   miles  away, 
and  the  excursion  to  this  pretty  city, 
the  capital  of  the  state  of  Mexico,  re- 
quires  but   one    day.      The    scenery 
.:^-S^*3MiSil^'     along   the  way   is  as    fine   as  any  in 
Mexico.     The  passenger  over  the  Si- 
erra de  las  Cruces   reaches  an  elevation  of  ten  thousand  five 
hundred  and  fifty-one  feet  on  the  continental  divide. 

Puebla  must,  of  course,  be  visited.  The  Interoceanic  Railway 
reaches  the  city  by  way  of  Texcoco,  a  pretty  village  which 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  royal  residence  of  Prince  Netzahual- 
coyotl,  the  Aztec  Pericles  whose  capital  has  been  aptly  named 
"  the  Athens  of  America."  At  Texcoco  the  "fleet"  of  Cortes 
was  launched,  and  here  the  bones  of  the  conqueror  rested  for 
seventy  years.     Ruins  of  palaces,  temples,  and  aqueducts   are 


208 


i 


encountered  here,  and  the  vicinity  is  a  paradise  for  the  anti- 
quarian. 

Puebla  is  a  charming  city  of  eighty  thousand  population.  It 
has  one  of  the  finest  cathedrals  in  Mexico,  and  no  other  town 
can   present  such  splendid   views  as  are   here  offered    by  the 

Hill  of  Guadalupe,  which  is 
itself  historic  ground.  Here 
occurred  the  famous  repulse 
of  the  French  by  Gen.  Zara- 
goza  in  1862,  and  the  more 
famous  battle  of  1867,  in 
which  Gen.  Diaz  captured  a 
French  army  and  sealed  the 
doom  of  Maximilian. 

Eight  miles  west  of  Puebla 
is  the  wonderful  pyramid  of  Cholula,  on  which  stood  the  temple 
of  Quetzalcoatl,  "God  of  the  Air."  This  was  an  Indian  Mecca 
when  the  Spaniard  came  to  the  "world  wrongly  called  the  New." 
About  twenty  miles  north  of  Puebla  is  Tlaxcala,  in  the  valley 
of  the  Atoyac,  capital  of  the  Rhode  Island  of  Mexico,  the  state 
of  Tlaxcala.  In  the  City  Hall  are  portraits 
of  the  four  chiefs  who  assisted 
Cortes  in  his  campaign  of  con- 
quest, also  the  robes  in  which 
they  were  baptized  and  the 
standard  which  was  given 
to  them  by  Cortes.  In 
the  chapel  of  the  church 
of  San  Francisco  (founded 
in  1521)  on  a  pulpit  is  the 
interesting  inscription,  "Aqui 
tubo  principio  el  Santo  Evangelio 

en  este  nuevo  mundo  "  (Here  the  Holy  Gospel  had  a  beginning 
in  the  New  World).     A  mile  from  the  town  is  the  famous  shrine 


209 


of  "  Our  Lady  of  Ocotlan,"  where  some  very  remarkable  carving 
by  an  Indian  sculptor  may  be  seen.  At  Tlaxcala  were  built  the 
boats  which  were  launched  at  Texcoco,  and  which  were  an  im- 
portant factor  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico. 

Pyramids  more  remarkable  than  the  one  at  Cholula  may  be 
seen  at  San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  on  the  Mexican  Railway,  about 
thirty  miles  northwest  of  the  city  of  Mexico.  A  day's  excur- 
sion will  enable  one  to  visit  the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  of  the 
Moon,  and  also  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  most  important  enter- 
prise of  modern  times  in  the  country,  the  Tequizquiac  tunnel 


PYRAMIDS   AND    STREET   OF   THE   DEAD. 

for  drainage  of  the  valley.  Many  of  the  relics  of  the  olden 
time  in  the  National  Museum  came  from  the  region  about 
Teotihuacan. 

Jalapa  is  well  worth  a  visit.  It  was  an  old  town  before  the 
conquest,  and,  until  Puebla  was  built,  the  only  place  of  note 
between  the  coast  and  the  capital.  Here  was  held  the  great 
annual  fair  for  the  sale  of  the  goods  brought  by  the  Spanish 
fleet.  Jalapa  is  a  rare  old  place  on  the  mountain-side,  from 
which  one  of  the  finest  views  of  Orizaba  can  be  obtained.     The 


2IO 


scenery  along  the  line  of  the  Interoceanic  road  to  Jalapa  is  very 
fine,  as  is  that  also  between  Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz. 

Coatepec,  a  little  village  six  miles  away,  at  the  base  of  Ori- 
zaba, apparently,  is  reached  by  tramway  from  Jalapa.  Both  the 
town  and  the  road  "  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated  "  ;    they  are 


TifTr"' 


unique.  Coatepec  is  noted  for  its  fine  coffee,  its  delicious 
oranges,  pineapples,  and  bananas.  The  visitor  sees  at  a  glance 
the  most  beautiful  tropical  verdure,  and  the  mountain  peak 
forever  white  with  snow. 

Another  novel  excursion  can  be  taken  from  Jalapa  to  Tejeria, 
seventy  miles  away,  over  the  longest  tramway  in  the  world,  that 
which  connects  the  city  with  the  Vera  Cruz  Railroad.  It  is 
better,  however,  for  the  tourist  to  go  only  to  Rinconada,  forty 
miles  by  tramway,  and  returning  to 
Jalapa,  make  his  journey  to  Vera 
Cruz  over  the  Interoceanic  road. 
The  mules  gayly  gallop  ten  miles  "'"' 
an  hour,  and  the  journey  is  a  de- 
lightful one.     Of  all  the  excursions  I 

have  made  in  Mexico,  I  enjoyed  none  more  than  that  from  Jalapa 
to  Rinconada  and  return.     Bill  Nye's  senatorial  mules  "  Eyether 


and  Neyether,  Peter  and  Repeater,"  are  no  more  worthy  of 
praise  than  the  little  animals  that  ply  between  Jalapa  andTejeria. 
The  road  runs  through  beautiful  scenery  over  the  old  highway 
from  the  coast  which,  historically,  is  one  of  the  famous  highways 
of  the  world. 

Vera  Cruz,  or  Villa  rica  de  la  Santa  Vera  Cruz,  as  Cortes 
named  it,  is  just  where  he  founded  it  in  15 19,  but  it  has  been 
moved  three  times.  A  royal  order  in  1600  restored  it  to  its 
original  site.  It  is  a  city  of  about  12,000  population;  it  has  a 
charming  plaza,  and  a  luxuriant  Alameda,  which  are  thronged  at 
certain  hours.  Excursions  by  boat  (weather  permitting)  may  be 
made  to  the  fortress  San  Juan  de  Ulua.  The  parish  church,  the 
lighthouse  "  Benito  Juarez,"  which  is  the  tower  of  San  Francisco 
church,  and  the  buzzards  attract  the  attention  of  visitors. 

The  zopiloles,  or  vultures,  or  buzzards,  are  the  scavengers  of 
the  municipality,  and  a  more  efficient  street-cleaning  department 
cannot  be  found  in  any  city. 

Between  Vera  Cruz  and  Esperanza  on  the  Mexican  Railway  is 
some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  world.  The  plain  for  forty 
miles  offers  nothing  attractive  except  the  view  of  Orizaba  in  the 
distance.  Above  Paso  del  Macho  we  meet  picturesque  scenery 
where  brilliant  orchids  illuminate  the  trees  festooned  with  moss, 
and  where  the  landscape  is  variegated  by  fields  of  bright  green 
sugar-cane  and  by  groves  of  dark  green  coffee  plants.  Follow- 
ing up  the  Atoyac,  we  cross  massive  bridges  and  wind  round 
canons  luxuriant  in  tropical  vegetation ;  banana  gardens  and 
orange  orchards  abound.  At  C6rdoba,  sixty  miles  from  the 
gulf,  we  reach  the  spot  where  the  finest  fruit  of  Mexico  is  offered 
us  at  the  station ;  baskets  of  guavas,  pinas  (pineapples) ,  bana- 
nas, oranges,  pomegranates,  and  chirimoyas,  "  the  fruit  of  the 
angels."  Next  we  go  through  and  across  the  wonderful  Metlac 
canon  on  a  marvellous  iron  bridge  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
long  and  ninety-two  feet  above  the  stream.  This  bridge  is  built 
upon  a  curve  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  radius,  and 


the  grade  of  the  road  on  the  bridge  is  three  per  cent.  At  an 
elevation  of  four  thousand  feet  we  come  to  Orizaba,  a  favorite 
summer  and  winter  resort,  noted  for  its  fine  climate  and 
beautiful  scenery.  The  name  signifies  "joy  in  the  water,"  and 
the  numerous  cascades  hereabout  show  that  it  is  a  descriptive 
and  appropriate  name. 

Leaving  Orizaba  we  run  up  the  Rio  Blanco,  and  crossing  sev- 
eral small  streams,  and  passing  through  several  tunnels,  come 
to  one  of  the  most  remarkable  points  on  this  or  on  any  rail- 
way line,  the  Barranca  del  Infernillo  (the  Ravine  of  the  Little 


Hell).  Along  the  very  edge  of  this  gorge  the  track  runs  for 
some  distance,  and  from  the  car  window  the  passenger  can  see 
the  foaming  water  rushing  in  its  self-hewn  canal,  fully  six  hun- 
dred feet  below  him.  This  caiion  affords  a  passageway  to  the 
beautiful  valley  of  La  Joya  (The  Jewel),  where  reposes  the  pretty 
village  of  Maltrata,  which,  like  its  larger  sister,  Orizaba,  revels  in 
red-tiled  roofs.  From  the  station  at  Maltrata,  look  across  the 
valley  and  far  up  on  the  mountain- side  !     See  that  trail  of  white 


213 


along  the  slope  !  that  is  the  rock  face  on  the  upper  side  of  our 
road.  Soon  we  shall  be  away  up  there  looking  down  on  this  little 
village  and  this  lovely  valley  ;  we  shall  have  a  veritable  bird's-eye 
view  of  Maltrata  as  we  soar  above  it  fully  two  thousand  feet.  The 
train  now  climbs  by  long  detours,  by  sharp  grades  and  many 
curves,  and  in  a  short  time  we  are  on  the  heights  overlooking 
the  village  and  the  valley.  What  a  view  !  Wonderful  achieve- 
ment of  man  to  carry  a  line  of  railway  up  such  steeps  and  over 
such  yawning  chasms. 

"  If  anything  in  Mexico  is  worth  going  to  see,  this  is  the  thing," 
exclaimed  the  Captain,  as  they  looked  down  on  the  valley  and 
the  village  of  Maltrata.  "  I  think  that  if  I  could  make  but  one 
excursion  from  the  city  of  Mexico,  that  one  should  be  the  trip 
to  Paso  del  Macho  and  return." 

"You  would  make  no  mistake  in  that  choice,"  said  the  Major. 


f-m 


214 


J 


XV. 


"  I  am  sure  care  's  an  enemy  to  life." 

T-cvelfth  Night. 

"  Poco  a  poco  se  va  lejos." 

Proverb. 

RAPIDLY    the  time    allotted  for  the   summer   excursion 
I    passed,  and  the  party  began  their  return  trip.    They  had 
now  visited  the  chief  cities  and  towns  in  the  Republic, 
with  the   exception  of  Pachuca,  Gaudalajara,  Gauna- 
/~e|       juato,  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  Tampico.     Gauda- 
^^  \J  /^   lajara   and    Guanajuato   are    reached   only   by 

the  Mexican  Central  Railway.     The  Pachuca 
branch  leaves  the  main  line  at  Tula. 
^         Pachuca  has  an  elevation  of  eight  thou- 
sand feet,  and  lies  in  a  basin  around  which 
ji^^  .'.■•^'     rise  lofty  mountains  noted  for  their  veins 
*^  *         "         of  silver.     The  Aztecs   mined    here    and 

the  Spaniards  began  work  on  the  veins  in  1520.  In  Cerro  San 
Juan,  north  of  the  city,  is  the  deepest  shaft  in  Mexico,  1,645  ^'S^^- 
The  streets  of  the  town  are  narrow  and  steep.  One  of  tne  sights 
is  the  transportation  of  ore  from  the  mines  to  the  reduction 
works  or  to  trains  for  shipment.  It  is  not  a  pleasant  sight, 
however,  for  one  cannot  but  feel  sorry  for  the  poor  animals. 
Between  the  work  of  pulling  great  loads  up  sharp 
grades,  and  the  pounding  by  the  drivers,  they  must 
suffer  all  that  it  is  possible  for  mules  to  endure. 

There  are  a  few  fine  buildings  in  the  town, 
but  they  are  not  worth  going  to  see.     Even  the 


215 


churches  have  an  appearance  of  being  neglected,  and  the  old 
missionary  college  has  become  a  school  of  mining.  From  Pa- 
chuca  several  interesting  excursions  may  be  made  amid  beautiful 
and  bold  scenery.  The  canon  of  Regla,  a  basaltic  formation,  is 
one  of  the  wonders  of  Mexico,  but  the  average  tourist  will  be 
satisfied  with  a  trip  to  Real  del  Monte,  which  can  be  made  in  a 
carriage.  A  pass  from  the  administrador  is  necessary  if  the 
visitor  wishes  to  see  the  equipment  of  the  mines  of  the  Real  del 
Monte  Company. 

As  they  were  going  to  get  their  pass,  the  party  saw  from  a 
bridge,  men,  women,  and  children  wading  and  working  in  a 
muddy  stream  with  pans,  and  scooping  something  from  the  bed 
of  the  stream. 

"  What  are  they  looking  for?  "  asked  the  Captain. 

"  Quicksilver,  and  that  means  silver  too.  This  water  comes 
through  a  patio  above,  and  brings  with  it  some  bits  of  the 
amalgam  from  the  reduction  works.  These  poor  people  can 
sometimes  find  a  few  centavos'  worth  of  silver  in  their  pans." 

"  That  patio  isn't  like  those  we  have  seen,  I  suppose,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"  Not  exactly,  not  a  garden-like  affair ;  a  patio  is,  literally, 
an  enclosure ;  this  is  a  level  floor  enclosed  for  the  treatment 
of  ore.  The  ores  are  pulverized,  spread  on  a  stone  floor,  and 
mixed  with  water,  salt,  and  quicksilver.  In  this  rich  mud  mules 
are  made  to  walk  to  and  fro,  and  men  are  set  to  work  with 
sticks  and  shovels,  for  the  purpose  of  thoroughly  mixing  the 
mass.  This  method  of  extracting  silver,  which  is  generally  in 
use  in  Mexico,  is  called  '  the  patio  process  ' ;  it  was  invente  1 
here  in  Pachuca  by  Medina  in  1557.  We  will  visit  the  Loreto 
amalgamating  works  and  see  the  curious  operation ;  it  seems  to 
be  a  wasteful  process  and  a  cruel  business  both  for  men  and 
mules." 

Obtaining  the  pass  from  the  administrador,  the  party  started 
off  in  a  light  two-seated  carriage.     The  driver,  of  course,  was  a 


216 


Mexican ;  but  as  he  was  a  driver  of  horses  and  not  of  mules, 
pounding  was  not  a  part  of  his  profession.  He  was  even  gentle, 
and  did  his  part  to  make  the  ride  enjoyable.  The  road,  is  one 
of  the  very  best  in  the  country,  though  now  it  is  not  in  as  good 
a  state  of  repair  as  it  might  be.  It  must  have  cost  a  mint  of 
money,  but  it  was  built  to  serve  mines  which  have  produced 
mints  of  silver.  The  Trinidad  mine  is  said  to  have  turned  out 
more  than  forty  millions  of  dollars  in  ten  years.  The  road 
was  built  when  all  the  mines  were  making  plenty  of  money, 
and  will  remain  a  fairly  good  road  for  years  without  much  work 
on  it. 

As  the  ascent  is  made  the  view  over  the  valley  widens. 
First,  we  have  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  city,  lying  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain ;  we  can  look  directly  down  into  the  patio  of  a 
reduction  works  and  see  the  men  and  mules  stirring  the  rich 
silver  pudding.  Across  a  deep  valley  on  the  sides  or  the  summits 
of  hills  we  see  several  fort-like  establishments  on  mines,  and  the 
white  winding  roads  leading  to  them.  Some  of  these  roads  rival 
in  cost  that  over  which  we  are  riding  to  the  Real.  On  the  way 
up  we  pass  many  heavily  loaded  carts,  which  pulling  mules    and 

pushing  men  are  toiling  to  get  to  the  summit. 

We  also  meet  trains  coming  down,  and  the  de- 
scent does  not  seem  very  much  easier  for  the 
\     animals   than   the   ascent. 
Some  curious  vehi- 


cles attract  our  attention.  A  single  Ijuito  is  dragging  an  enor- 
mous stick  of  timber  to  town  ;  one  end  of  the  stick  resting  on  a 
little  cart,  the  wheels  of  which  are  only  circular  pieces  of  jilank 
about  a  foot  in  diameter.     We  see  many  of  these  litde  burro 


217 


teams,  each  accompanied  by  a  man,  a  woman,  a  child,  and 
generally  a  dog.  The  whole  family  seems  to  be  going  to  town 
with  each  stick  of  timber. 

At  last  the  summit  of  the  mountain  is  reached,  and  a  new 
vegetation  appears  as  we  descend  the  other  side  into  Real  del 
Monte.  Nowhere  in  Mexico  is  a  transition  more  sudden  or  sur- 
prising. It  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  eastern  side  of  the 
mountains  gets  the  moisture  from  the  gulf  breezes,  and  on  those 
sides  vegetation  luxuriates,  while  on  the 
western  sides  it  languishes  and  loses  its 
life  for  want  of  water.  The  transition  is 
a  most  delightful  one.  The  view  from 
the  summit  is  superb ;  behind,  before, 
and  on  both  sides  are  mountains  and 
valleys.  The  elevation  of  more  than 
nine  thousand  feet  opens  out  a  prospect 
in  every  direction  which  cannot  be  de- 
scribed. Right  below  is  the  quaint  little 
village  of  Real  del  Monte,  most  of  the 
inhabitants  of  which  are  Cornish  miners 
and  their  families.  On  the  hillsides  are 
cultivated  fields  and  flourishing  gardens. 
Flowers  abound,  and  the  verdure  of  the 

MILKMAN.  .  .  .  ui       i      i.1. 

region  is  most  agreeable  to  the  eye. 

From  the  pretty  little  plaza  in  the  village  we  have  to  make  a 
sharp  climb  to  the  promontory  on  which  stands  the  great  Mae- 
stranza  containing  the  powerful  machinery  which  operates  the 
pumps  and  hoisting  works  of  the  Real  del  Monte  Company. 
Here  is  one  of  the  largest  wheels  in  the  world,  about  fifty  feet 
in  diameter,  and  here  too  is  one  of  the  longest  pump-rods  in  the 
world,  a  plunger  sixteen  hundred  feet  in  length  ! 

The  water  is  not  pumped  to  the  surface,  but  to  a  tunnel  about 
four  hundred  feet  below  the  summit,  and  through  that  discharged 
into  the  valley.     There  are  more   than  fifty  miles  of  drifts  and  ^ 


218 


tunnels  in  the  Real  district.  This  single  pump  hoists  the  water 
which  drains  from  a  dozen  mines. 

"  This  is  your  chance,  Captain,  to  go  down  into  a  mine,"  said 
the  Major. 

"  No,  thanks,"  said  the  boy,  who  had  just  seen  one  of  the 
miners  come  up,  dripping  and  shivering  with  cold  on  a  car-load 
of  ore.  "  I'll  choose  a  dry  mine  when  I  go  down,  and  I  think 
I'll  take  one  not  quite  so  deep.  Six  hundred  feet  will  be  enough 
for  me  ;  never  mind  the  other  thousand." 

On  the  way  back  to  the  village  the  boys  were  greatly  interested 
in  the  groups  of  women  waiting  with  lunches  for  the  miners 
about  the  various  shafts,  and  in  seeing  many  of  the  men  come  out 
from  their  cells  under  the  mountain.  The  ride  to  Pachuca  was 
(juite  as  enjoyable  as  that  to  Real  del  Monte.  A  visit  to  one  of 
the  great  amalgamating  works  occupied  the  remainder  of  the 
day,  and  the  party  duly  arrived  at  Tula  ready  to  resume  their 
journey  northward  to  Irapuato,  from  which  point  they  were  to 
make  a  trip  to  the  "Lake  Region  of  Mexico,"  to  the  Falls  of 
Juanacatlan,  and  to  the  city  of  Guadalajara. 


BUENGS    DIAS   SENOR. 


2  19 


XVI. 

"Gems  of  the  Sunland,  never  yet 
Were  lake^  in  lovelier  valleys  set." 

^HE  Guadalajara  division  of  the  Mexican  Central 
Railway,  branching  from  the  main  line  at  Ira- 
puato,  runs  through  one  of  the  most  attractive 
and  fertile  sections  of  Mexico.  Mention  of 
Lake  Chapala,  of  the  Lerma  River,  and  of  the 
Niagara   of    Mexico   will   suggest    the    scenery 


which  is  awaiting  the  traveller,  and  a  few  figures  as  to 
the  products  of  the  region  will  convince  any  one  of  its 
fertility.  The  state  of  Jalisco  produced,  last  year,  more 
than  eighteen  million  bushels  of  corn,  more  than  three 
million  bushels  of  wheat,  and  one  million  bushels  of 
beans  :  a  large  part  of  this  yield  grew  on  lands  which  lie 
in  sight  of  the  passenger  over  this  division. 
Leaving  Irapuato  in  the  morning,  the  whole  division  is  passed 
over  by  daylight ;  the  train  arrives  in  Guadalajara  before  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  first  few  stations  are  unimpor- 
tant. Passing  Penjamo,  a  place  of  nine  thousand  population, 
and  La  Piedad  about  the  same  size,  both  centres  of  consider- 
able trade,  we  cross  the  Lerma  and  arrive  at  La  Barca,  a  town  of 


220 


A 


^ 
>- 


2 /ft  h 


ten  thousand  population,  and  a  place  noted  for  its  excellent 
oranges,  and  which  was  formerly  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
steamer  on  Lake  Chapala.  The  passenger  can  see  from  the 
bridge  over  the  Lerma  the  relics  of  the  steamer  "  La  Libertad," 
which  was  brought  over  the  mountains,  three  hundred  miles, 
from  the  Pacific,  and  launched  on  Lake  Chapala.  Part  of  her 
lies  on  the  river  bank  at  La  Barca,  and  part  of  her  is  now  running 
on  the  lake. 

Sixteen  miles  beyond  La  Barca  we  reach  Ocotlan.  This  pretty 
place  is  on  the  little  river  Sula,  a  short  distance  above  its  junction 
with  the  Lerma.  The  station  is  connected  with  the  town  by 
street  car  which  runs  to  the  bridge  just  above  the  steamboat 
landing. 

Ocotlan  is  situated  on  a  plain  which  slopes  southward  a  few 
miles  into  the  shore  of  the  lake.     With  its  pretty  plaza,  beautiful 


church  spires,  its  portales,  and  its  two  bridges  (one  over  the 
Sula,  south  of  the  village,  and  one  west  over  the  Lerma),  Ocotlan 
is  very  picturesque. 

The  water  front  of  the  city  is  on  the  Sula,  just  above  the  bridge. 
Here  a  novel  sight  is  seen  on  the  levee.  No  great  steamers  are 
moored  there,  but  scores  of  great  canoes  are  loading  and  unload- 


ing,  or  waiting  for  the  spirit  of  their  captains  to  move.     These 
canoes  have  hitherto  done  all  the  business  on  Lake  Chapala. 

The  water  works  of  Ocotlan  are  not  extensive,  but  such  as 
they  are,  they  can  be  seen  at  the  bridge  across  the  Lerma,  over 
which  passes  the  highway  to  Guadalajara.  They  consist  of  one 
large  wheel  and    a  pump.      The  wheel    is  on  a  frame    under 

one  of  the  arches  of  the  bridge. 
The  current  of  the  river  runs  the 
J.  wheel,  and  the  wheel,  of  course, 
■  runs  the  pump.  But  rivers  in 
this  region  rise  and  fall,  and 
there  are  times  when  this  wheel  is  six  feet  above  the  water. 
Whenever  the  current  cannot  reach  the  wheel,  the  people  of 
Ocotlan  get  their  water  by  carts  and  carriers. 

The  steamer  "Chapala"  is  a  flat-bottom  stern-wheel  boat, 
very  like  those  that  are  common  on  the  shallow  rivers  of  the 
West ;  the  only  boats  adapted  to  shoal-water  service.  Every- 
thing about  the  steamer  appears  new,  but  one  of  the  things  not 
new  on  the  "  Chapala  "  is  Juan  Perez,  the  pilot.  He  is  not  neces- 
sarily old,  but  he  is  a  veteran  in  ser- 
vice. He  bears  a  good  old  name,  a 
name  historic,  for  it  is  the  same  as 
that  of  the  good  priest,  who,  in  149 1,  |ij 
brought  Columbus  to  the  notice  of 
Queen  Isabella. 

The  reception  committee  of  Ocot- 
lan has  an  unusually  good  place  for 
observation ;  it  is  the  bridge  above 
the  wharf.  There  being  plenty  of 
room,  the  committee  is  large,  both  - 
on  arrival  and  departure  of  the  boat, 
which  is  always  announced  by  a  pro- 
longed whistle.  "All  aboard  —  cast  off";  and  away  we^go. 
Down  the  little  Sula,  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  we  are  in  the 


channel  of  the  Lerma ;    rounding  a  sharp  point  on  the  left,  we 
head  up  stream  towards  the  lake,  four  or  five  miles  away. 
"Nice  turn,  that,  wasn't  it?  "  said  the  Captain. 
"  Yes,  but  if  you  want  to  see  some  fancy  work  in  handling  a 
steamboat,  you  want  to  see  Juan  bring  this  boat  around  that  point 
the  other  way.     Getting  out  of  Ocotlan  is  not 
much  of  a  trick,  but  getting  in  is  something  to 
talk  about.     Look  out  for  this  exhibition  wh( 
we  come  back." 

In  a  few  minutes  they  were  in  sight  of 
lake.  From  the  upper  deck  the  party 
took  in  the  extended  view.  On  the  left 
the  great  lagunas  or  swamps  east  of  the  lake,  green  as  a  meadow 
in  June,  extend  for  miles ;  directly  ahead  is  the  broken  range 
of  hills  forming  the  southern  shore,  and  to  the  right  the  bold 
Cerro  Chiquihuitillo.  Behind  is  the  plain  reaching  away  to  the 
distant  hills  on  the  north,  and  from  this  beautiful  plain  rise  the 
graceful  white  towers  of  Ocotlan  church. 

"  What  a  large  lake  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 
"Yes,  it  is  larger   than  some  celebrated   lakes,  for  instance, 
the  Lake  of  Geneva;  that  is  only  forty-five  miles,  and  this  is 
more  than  fifty  miles  long ;  that  is  only  nine,  while  this  is  eigh- 
teen miles  wide.     It  is  the  largest  lake  in  Mexico." 

"  It  must  be  pretty  well  up  in  the  world,  too,"  added 
the  Captain.     "  What  is  its  elevation?  " 

"  It  is  higher  than  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington. 
Chapala  is  nearly  the  highest  navigable  body  of  water 
on  the  globe,  and  now  that  it  is  so  easily  accessible  it 
is  destined  to  become  a  great  pleasure  resort  for  very 
many  people.  You  can  see  how  beautiful  the  surround- 
ings are  ;  the  climate  is  all  that  can  be  desired,  and  everything 
about  the  lake  is  attractive  to  the  lover  of  fine  scenery.  A 
day  may  be  spent  most  pleasantly  in  an  excursion  about  the 
lake." 


Mescala  is  the  first  landing-place  ;  not  much  to  be  seen  here, 
the  village  itself  being  hidden  in  the  trees  on  the  hillside. 

Opposite  the  town  lies  the  large  island  of  Mescala.  Here  are 
the  ruins  of  an  ancient  prison.  Massive  walls  are  still  standing, 
and  might  be  easily  restored  to  service.  This  island  ought  to  be 
utilized  by  the  federal  or  state  government  in  some  way. 

The  sail  along  the  north  shore  from  Mescala  to  the  towo  of 
Chapala  is  delightful.  We  seem,  at  times,  to  be  shut  in,  but  the 
pilot  finds  a  way  out  and  duly  brings  us  to  a  pretty  ;>    little    city 


A    HUME    BY   THE   SHORE. 

which  nestles  at  the  base  of  a  sugar-loaf  mountain,  and  which  is 
the  largest  town  on  the  lake.  A  fine  old  church  is  one  of  the 
attractions  of  the  town  for  visitors,  but  the  hot  springs  which  boil 
up  not  far  from  the  plaza  have  given  Chapala  fame  as  a  health 
resort.  The  springs,  although  not  numerous,  remind  one  of 
those  at  Aguas  Calientes;   they  have  made  Chapala  a  favorite 


224 


resort  of  the  people  of  Cruadalajara  and  vicinity,  and  when  better 
known  will  attract  people  from  a  greater  distance.  "  Charming" 
is  the  word  to  describe  Chapala  ;  I  doubt  if  there  is  another  town 
in  Mexico  more  prettily  situated.  A  short  distance  from  shore  is 
a  large  island,  which  is  made  use  of  as  a  picnic  ground.  The 
view  from  the  hill  immediately  back  of  the  town  is  one  of  great 
beauty. 

It  is  an  interesting  sight  to  see  the  water  works  of  Chapala  in 
operation.  No  wheels,  no  pumps,  no  fountains  ;  only  dippers. 
The  lake  is  the  reservoir,  and  women  are  the  dippers.  They 
wade  out  as  far  as  they  please,  fill  their  jars  as  full  as  they  please, 
shoulder  them  and  march  home.  No  scooping  with  gourds  as 
at  Zacatecas,  for  water  is  plenty,  and  no  one  has  to  wait  for  an- 
other. 

Chapala  is  sure  to  become  more  and  more  a  favorite  watering 
place.  Already  there  are  some  fine  summer  "  seaside  "  cottages 
there,  and  in  the  offing  you  can  see  a  yacht !  With  a  combina- 
tion of  delightful  climate  and  hot  springs,  with  mountain  climb- 
ing, boating,  bathing,  and  fishing  as  recreations  for  visitors,  why 
shouldn't  charming  Chapala  become  the  finest  health  and  pleas- 
ure resort  in  Mexico  ? 

The  next  port  is  Xocotopec,  at  the  extreme  western  end  of 
the  lake.  The  town  lies  in  a  pretty  valley  three  miles  back  from 
the  lake,  and  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  rural  trade.  Return- 
ing along  the  south  shore  we  find  no  towns  of  commercial  impor- 
tance, but  do  find  a  succession  of  beautifiil  views  which  charm  by 
their  variety.  We  pass  San  Martin,  San  Cristobal,  Tuscueca,  and 
see,  partly  hidden  by  groves  of  orange  and  lemon  trees,  the  flour- 
ishing city  of  Tizapan  which  reposes  on  the  hillside  two  miles 
from  the  lake,  along  the  little  Rio  de  la  Pasion. 

We  sail  over  what  is  supposed  to  be  an  oil  well,  some  signs  ol 
which  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  lake  ;  we  touch  at  the  fisher- 
man's village  with  the  pretty  name.  La  Palma,  and  thence  com- 
plete our  eighty-mile  circuit  of  Lake  Chapala  by  a  direct  return 

225 


to  Ocollan,  where  we  resume  our  railroad  journey.  Not  far  from 
the  station  we  cross  the  river  Lerma.  Looking  out  of  the  win- 
dow on  the  left,  the  Corporal  exclaimed,  "  There  are  the  water 
works  of  Ocotlan  again." 

"  Yes,  and  how  graceful  the  arches  of  that  old  bridge  look 
from  here  !  "  said  the  Captain. 

The  Lerma  is  in  sight  from  the  train  now  most  of  the  way  for 
thirty  miles.     The   ride  along  it  is  one    of  constant  pleasure. 


One  can  easily  imagine  himself  in  New  England  if  he  will  con- 
sider only  the  scenery.  But  the  costumes  and  houses  of  the 
people,  the  haciendas  and  farm  equipments,  which  constantly 
claim  attention,  remind  one  of  nothing  but  Mexico. 

A  few  words  about  the  Lerma  are  in  order  here.  It  is  called 
the  Mississippi  of  Mexico,  being  the  longest  river  in  the  country. 
It  rises  south  of  us,  just  east  of  Toluca,  and  after  a  course  of  four 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  empties  into  the  Pacific  Ocean  at  San 
Bias.  It  drains  an  immense  territory.  It  passes  through  the 
northwest  corner  of  Lake  Chapala.  Its  course  through  the  lake 
can  be  distinctly  traced  by  the  color  of  its  flood.  Indeed  some 
regard  the  lake  as  chiefly  if  not  wholly  a  reservoir  of  the  river, 
and  so  geographers  give  the  same  name  to  the  river  below  the 

226 


lake  as  above.  On  some  maps,  however,  the  stream  which  leaves 
Lake  Chapala  is  named  Rio  Grande  de  Santiago.  It  is  nowhere 
navigable,  except  for  a  few  miles  near  the  lake. 

At  Poncitlan,  eleven  miles  from  Ocotlan,  is  a  beautiful  bridge 
(seen  on  the  right  of  the  train)  and  some  charming  scenery. 
We  are  in  the  best  wheat  country  of  Jalisco  now  for  a  few  miles. 

Atequiza,  thirteen  miles  farther  west,  is  a  good  station  for 
anyone  to  stop  at  who  wishes  to  visit  a  great  hacienda  comforta- 
bly, and  without  a  ride  through  the  country.  You  can  visit  one 
here  by  rail.  The  station  here,  as  is  common  along  the  whole 
line,  takes  its  name  from  the  great  hacienda  nearest.  Atequiza 
is  in  sight,  half  a  mile  away  on  the  left.  This  hacienda  has  miles 
of  wheat  fields,  hundreds  of  oxen  and  other  animals,  and  thou- 
sands of  men  at  work  on  its  farms  or  ranches.     You  see  here  the 


neadiiuartcib  of  the  \-a.st  estate;  here  are  -ii  uiiuMi-e-,  (oiiiils, 
workmen's  homes,  mills,  hospital,  schoolhouse,  and  church, 
besides  the  princely  residence  of  the  owner.  Some  have  thought 
this  is  the  place  called  "  Miratlores  "  in  Christian  Reid's  beautiful 
story,  "A  Cast  for  Fortune,"  a  tale  of  Mexican  Ufe  in  Jalisco. 

The  hacienda  has  its  own  railroad  and  cars,  connecting  with 
the  Mexican  Central,  and  also  a  complete  electric  light  plant. 


227 


From  Atequiza  one  can  go  directly  over  the  hill  on  the  south  to 
Chapala  on  the  lake,  a  fine  ride  of  twenty  miles.  A  day  could 
be  well  spent  in  a  visit  to  Atequiza  and  an  exxursion  to  Chapala. 
At  El  Castillo  we  change  cars  for  a  trip  to  the  Niagara  of 
Mexico.  We  cannot  say  of  the  Falls  of  Juanacatlan  what 
Anthony  Trollope  said  of  Niagara,  but  we  may  say  that  no  tourist 
can  afford  to  pass  by  El  Castillo  and  not  go  over  the  hills  to  the 
river,  unless  he  prefers  to  ride  to  the  falls  from  Guadalajara. 
What  Trollope  said  was  this  :  "  Of  all  the  sights  on  this  earth  of 
ours,  which  tourists  travel  to  see,  I  am  inclined  to  give  the  palm 
to'  Niagara.  In  the  catalogue  of  such  sights  I  intend  to  include 
all  buildings,  pictures,  statues,  and  wonders  of  art  made  by  men's 
hands,  and  also  all  beauties  of  nature  prepared  by  the  Creator 
for  the  delight  of  his  creatures.  This  is  a  long  word,  but  as  far 
as  my  taste  and  judgment  go,  it  is  justified.  I  know  of  no  other 
one  thing  so  beautiful,  so  glorious,  and  so  powerful."  Anything 
that  suggests  the  falls  "  so  beautiful,  so  glorious,  so  powerful," 
must  be  worth  going  to  see.  Juanacatlan  does  more  than  sug- 
gest, it  resembles  Niagara.  It  is  really  a  miniature  of  the  mighty 
cataract.  There  is  the  crescent  form,  the  little  Luna-like  island 
on  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  the  Terrapin  Rock  where  the 
old  tower  used  to  stand ;  there  are  the  rapids  above  and  below ; 
the  great  gorge  and  the  awful  roar;  all  at  Juanacatlan  as  at  Niag- 
ara. The  Lerma  seems  to  be  trying  to  pour  all  the  waters  of 
Lake  Chapala,  and  of  an  area  of  forty  thousand  square  miles, 
over  the  falls  at  once  as  does  Niagara  the  waters  of  Erie  and  the 
upper  lakes.  The  river  here  is  five  hundred  and  sixty  feet  wide, 
and  falls  sixty-five  feet  in  its  single  leap  to  a  lower  level.  The 
mighty  power  of  the  falls  is  not  allowed  to  go  to  waste  ;  it  is  util- 
ized by  a  great  mill,  but  is  to  be  still  further  employed  by  an  elec- 
tric light  plant  for  the  benefit  of  Guadalajara,  fifteen  miles  distant. 
Here  again  is  a  likeness  to  Niagara,  for  the  great  engineering 
feat  that  has  been  accomplished  there  will  soon  be  seen  in  minia- 
ture at  Juanacatlan. 

228 


Be  sure  and  go  to  the  falls,  and  when  there  make  a  tour 
through  the  great  mill.  If  you  can  talk  or  understand  Spanish, 
you  will  learn  much  as  to  the  grain  products  of  this  fertile  region, 
the  methods  of  handling  and  trading  in  them,  the  making  of 
flour,  etc. ;  but  if  you  cannot  talk  much,  you  can  see  there, 
without  inconvenience,  what  you  may  never  have  an  opportunity 
to  see  elsewhere. 

You  can  get  to  the  falls  by  tram  road  from  El  Castillo  station. 
Mules  gallop  gayly  over  the  hills  under  the  gentle  persuasion  of 
the  lash,  and  land  you  at  the  mill  in  half  an  hour.  If  you  are  fond 
of  riding,  you  will  find 
the  excursion  to  the  falls 
on  horseback  from  Gua- 
dalajara exhilarating  and 
interesting. 

Returning  to  the  train 
at  El  Castillo,  a  run  of 
forty  minutes  will  bring  you  to  Guadalajara,  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  Jalisco,  and,  excepting  Mexico,  the  largest  city  in  the 
Republic.  The  traveller  will  find  here  as  fine  a  terminal  station 
as  at  many  large  towns  in  the  States.  Everything  about  it  is  as 
neat  as  wax,  and  as  substantial  as  stone  and  iron  can  make  it. 
Moreover  it  is  right  in  town,  only  a  few  blocks  from  the  Plaza  de 
Armas  and  the  Cathedral. 

Guadalajara  and  vicinity  may  be  said  to  offer  to  the  tourist 
more  attractions  than  any  other  region  of  Mexico,  excepting  the 
capital  itself  and  its  valley.  It  is  no  wonder  that  the  city  has 
been  named  La  Perla  del  Occidente,  the  Pearl  of  the  West.  It 
might  safely  be  called  "  the  jewel  of  Mexico."  No  other  city 
approaches  it,  unless  it  be  Puebla ;  but  the  real  beauty  of  that 
city  is  outside,  while  Guadalajara  has  many  charms  within  her 
gates,  and  also  many  just  beyond.  The  centre  of  its  charms  is,  of 
course,  the  plaza,  a  beautiful  garden  surrounded  by  splendid 
buildings.      On  one  side   is  the  government  palace,  on  another 


229 


the  Cathedral,  and  on  the  other  two  sides  long  rows  of  portales 
with  their  graceful  arches.  One  can  never  forget  his  first  even- 
ing on  the  plaza  in  Guadalajara,  The  balmy  air,  heavy  with 
fragrance  of  roses  and  orange  blossoms ;  the  enchanting  music  ; 
the  array  of  beautiful  women  and  handsome  men  prom- 
enading vis-a-vis  (so  as  to  see  and  to  be  seen)  ;  the  blaze  of 
electric  lights  and  the  flicker  of  the  venders'  torches ;  the  sight 
of  the  highest  and  lowest  classes  mingling  in  pursuit  of  pleasure 
in  the  park  belonging  no  more  to  the  proud  don  than  to  the  poor- 
est peon, —  all  combine  to  make  a  scene  which  can  scarcely  be 
witnessed  elsewhere.  Some  visitors  have  said  that 
improvement"  has  made  Guadalajara  less  at- 
tractive. To  be  sure  it  has,  in  its  parts,  a  look 
of  comparative  newness,  but  no  one  should 
complain  of  that :  it  really  means  comparative 
cleanness.  It  is  one  of  the  brightest  of  Mexi- 
can cities.  Its  Cathedral  is  rivalled  only 
by  that  of  the  capital  ani  that  of 
Puebla.  Its  government  build- 
ing has  a  modern  air  about  it 
that  is  pleasing.  Its  stucco 
is  colored  a  light  gray,  and  its 
white  trimmings  are  decidedly 
agreeable    to    the    eye.      No 

ji^    gU  ...X-  -^^i-.    ^'I'ptii,^  g^^Ping    griffins    threaten  you 
^^^^'         T      s.  '  t^^i  J^  from  the  eaves,  and  even  the 

cannons  which  constitute  the 
water-spouts  of  the  building 
are   welcome    for   a  change. 

FALACE. 

Above  the  great  clock  on  the 
front  of  the  building  is  a  relief  of  the  national  arms,  and  below 
one  of  the  state  arms.  Towers,  one  on  each  corner,  complete 
and  ornament  the  fagade  of  the  palace,  and  the  visitor  is  re- 
minded  of  the   Royal   Exchange    in   London    by   seeing   on  a 


!30 


government  building  an  inscription  of  a  Bible  passage.  Here 
the  passage  is,  "Nisi  Dominus  custodierit  civitatem,  frustra  vigilat 
qui  cusiodit  cam"  ("Except  the  Lord  keep  the  city,  the  watch- 
man waketh  but  in  vain"). 

Guadalajara  is  noted  the  world  over  for  its  beautiful  ladies, 
and,  like  Athens  of  old,  it  is  very  religious.  In  its  loyalty  to  the 
church  it  is  second  to  none  in  Mexico,  and  it  makes  good  its 
claim  by  works  of  charity  and  mercy,  as  well  as  by  public  wor- 
ship. 

The  famous  Hospicio  will,  of  course,  be  visited  by  every 
tourist.  It  is  a  very  extensive  establishment  of  charity  and 
devotion.  It  luxuriates  in  twenty-three  patios,  each  one  made 
bright  and  fragrant  and  refreshing  by  fountains  and  flowers.    The 


J  A/wkwS'^     -  *\> '  I  jtV*"*^     ill. 


LAW    hCHool,. 


unfortunate  inmates  must  be  counted  fortunate  in  such  surround- 
ings. How  much  better  off  are  they  than  their  thousands  of 
very  poor  neighbors  across  the  river  !  And  here  is  a  contrast 
which  will  strike  the  visitor.  Let  him  go  from  the  beautiful  part 
of  the  city,  say  from  the  great  plaza,  across  the  river  to  the 
suburb  called  San  Juan  de  Dios  (St.  John  of  God).  Here  the 
poor  are  huddled  together  in  unpaved  streets,  the  dreariness  of 
which  is  nowhere  relieved  by  a  park  or  plaza  containing  shade  or 


231 


flowers.  An  open  square  without  ornament  is  all  the  breathing 
place  they  have.  Such  houses  for  homes  !  often  with  no  window, 
and  always  without  good  air ;  with  the  ground  for  a  bed  and  rags 
for  covering,  in  abject  poverty  here  live,  or  rather  exist,  many 
hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  of  the  families  who  make  up  the 
ninety-five  thousand  population  of  the  "  Pearl  of  the  West  "  of 
Mexico.  The  visitor  who  is  to  see  Mexican  life  among  the  poor 
as  well  as  among  the  rich  must  make  a  flying  trip  to  San  Juan  de 
Dios.  Having  seen  the  worst,  one  may,  perhaps,  forget  it  in 
seeing  the  best.  A  trip  to  San  Pedro  is  a 
delight.  The  ride  is  along  the 
ancient  calzada  under  great  trees 
that  must  have  been  kissed  by  the 
sun  for  a  hundred  years  and  per- 
haps for  two  or  three  times 
as  long.  Paved  streets, 
handsome  residences,  fine 
stores,  beautiful  gardens, 
and  happy  faces  will  greet 
you  at  San  Pedro. 
This  is  the  favorite  suburb  of 
Guadalajara.  Here  the  wealthy 
people  have  their  out-of-town  homes.  Here  the  famous  Guadala- 
jara pottery  w-are  is  made.  The  visitor  who  wants  the  genuine 
ware  at  decent  prices  should  buy  it  here,  and  not  at  the  capital, 
where  he  may  or  may  not  get  the  real  article,  and  will  certainly 
have  to  pay  double  its  worth. 

If  you  want  to  see  yourself  as  others  see  you,  get  a  bust  of 
yourself  at  San  Pedro.  You  can  do  it  thus  :  Two  native  "  artists 
in  clay,"  in  fact,  sculptors,  dwell  in  San  Pedro ;  they  are  father 
and  son,  named  Panduro.  Anybody  can  tell  you  where  to  find 
them,  and  they  will  mould  you  to  the  life.  Or,  if  you  will  send  for 
them,  one  at  least  will  wait  on  you  at  your  hotel,  and  in  due  lime 
return  you  a  statuette   of  yourself  daintily  done  in  clay.     It  is 


232 


said  that  the  Panduros  are  to  be  sent  to  the  Columbian  Fair  by 
the  state  of  Jalisco. 

Days  may  be  spent  pleasantly  in  this  beautiful  city  and  other 
days  in  exploring  the  grand  surroundings.  A  visit  to  the  famous 
barranca  should  not  be  omitted.  The  Lerma  or  Santiago  River 
has  here  cut  its  way  from  the  plateau  to  a  lower  level,  and  has 
made  an  enormous  caiion,  the  perpendicular  sides  of  which  are 
two  thousand  feet  high.  At  the  top  of  the  chasm  you  are  in 
a  temperate  climate ;  at  the  bottom  you  get  a  taste  of  the 
"  torrid  "  temperature,  which  must  be  felt  to  be  appreciated. 
Nowhere  else  in  Mexico,  and  probably  nowhere  else  in  the  world, 
can  so  satisfactory  an  excursion  be  made  so  easily  ;  two  hours' 
ride  from  the  city  brings  one  to  the  barranca,  but  the  visitor 
should  devote  the  whole  day  to  the  excursion  to  this  region  of 
the  banana  and  the  palm. 


,1 

IN   THE   BARRANCA. 


233 


XVII. 


Which  I  have  earned  with  the  sweat  of  my  brows." 

Don  Qiiixoti. 

\UANAJUATO,  the  fifth  city  of  Mexico,  with 
a  population  of  fifty-three  thousand,  lies 
in  a  mountain  ravine  fourteen  miles  east 
from  Silao.  The  locomotive  will  only 
take  you  to  the  suburb  Marfil,  eleven 
miles ;  there  you  take  a  street  car,  and 
[;^|gEr  the  mules  do  the  rest.  Marfil  is  a  Moorish-look- 
••  ing  village  composed  of  low,  square,  flat- roofed 
stone  houses ;  adobe  seems  to  be  at  a  discount  in 
and  about  Guanajuato.  Everything  in  the  vicinity 
seems  built  to  stay.  The  road  up  the  ravine  from 
Marfil  to  the  city  is  a  wonderful  piece  of  engineering, 
which  took  eighty-five  years  to  complete.  Heavy 
loads  require  good  roads,  and  Guanajuato  has  both. 
The  yield  of  the  mines  and  the  supplies  for  their 
operation  make  this  one  of  the  most  important  stations  for  busi- 
ness on  the  line. 

Guanajuato  is  one  of  those  terraced  places  where  it  would  be 
convenient  for  people  to  have  one  leg  shorter  than  the  other. 
The  residents  must  be  both  climbers  and  creepers.  Such  nooks 
and  crooks  and  crannies  !  It  reminds  one  of  those  hillside  vine- 
yards on  the  Rhine.  The  wonder  is  that  so  much  level  space  has 
been  found  or  made.  It  is  said  that  it  cost  one  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars  to  make  the  lot  on  which  the  costly  church  of  the 
Compailia  is  bui't,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  Mexico. 


234 


The  Jesuits  had  hard  times  here ;  they  spent  some  twenty 
years  in  completing  this  church,  and  two  years  afterward  were 
expelled  from  the  country.  In  the  Compaiiia  are  some  beautiful 
paintings,  and  on  the  fagade  several  superior  statues. 

There  is  plenty  of  silver  in  these  overhanging  mountains,  but 
little  of  it  seems  to  get  into  the  hands  of  the  common  people. 
There  are  traditions  about  washing  pigs  for  the  silver  which  they 
have  accumulated  by  a  wallow  in  the  rich  mud-puddles  !  Why 
not  try  some  of  the  children?     Won't  silver  stick  to  them? 

Exceedingly  Mexican  is  Guanajuato.  The  streets  are  a  sight; 
burros  and  bargains  everywhere.  Where  so  many  are  sellers, 
who  are  the  buyers?  The  sellers  themselves  are,  of  course, 
buyers  of  other  goods  than  their  own,  and  the  slippery  centavo 
makes  the  lively  trade  of  the  street. 

One  thing  that  will  attract  attention  in  Guanajuato  is  the  varie- 
gated stone  used  in  many  of  the  finest  buildings.  It  seems  to 
have  all  the  colors  of 
the  rainbow,  but  green 
prevails.  There  is  an 
immense  theatre,  four 
stories  in  height,  built 
of  this  stone  near  the 
Alameda.  The  great 
walls  look  as  if  they 
had  been  frescoed. 
This  theatre  is  said  to 
be  the  largest  in  North 
America,  certainly  it  is 
the  largest  in  Mexico,  L- 
and  when  it  is  completed  it  will  be  one  of  the  notable  buildings 
of  the  continent.  A  visit  to  the  quarries  above  the  city  is  most 
interesting.  Immense  grotto  like  caves,  the  roofs  of  which  are 
supported  by  columns,  have  been  made  there  by  the  extraction  of 
the  stone.     Men  transport  the  product  of  these  quarries  on  their 


235 


backs   down   the    mountain-side,   through   the    streets,   and   up 

ladders  to  the  workmen  on  the  walls. 

The  main  plaza  is  a  small  but  very  pretty  triangular  park  raised 

above  the  streets,  surrounded  by  fine  stores  on  two  sides,  and  on 

the  third  side  by  the  parish 
church.  The  chief  resort  of 
the  people,  however,  is  in  the 
park  called  La  Presa,  near  the 
upper  reservoir ;  there  are  the 
music  stand  and  the  prome- 
nade, and  there  is  the  oddest 
place  of  recreation  in  this  odd 
country. 

Historically  the  Alh6ndiga 
de  Granaditas,  known  now  as 
"The  Castle,"  is  the  most  in- 
teresting building  in  the  city. 
It  was  once  an  "  Exchange," 
as  its  name  indicates,  but  now 
it  is  a  federal  prison.  Hi- 
dalgo captured  it  early  in  his 
fight  for  independence.  His 
companions  were  few,  and 
so  they  could  not  hold  the 
fort.  Later  in  the  conflict 
the  heads  of  the  four  leaders 
^/^  ^^^^^^^^^H     were  brought  here  from  Chi- 

f  ^^^^^^^H     huahua   and    exposed  on  the 

corners    of    the    castle   as   a 
The  republican  has  honored  Hidalgo  with  a 

statue  on  the  spot  where  the  royalist  tried  to  disgrace  him.     The 

Mexican  Republic  is  Hidalgo's  true  monument. 

The  history  of  Guanajuato  is  a  series  of  surprises.     The  city 

was  founded  on  account  of  a  surprise  away  back  in  1548.     The 


warning  to  traitors. 


236 


traditional  mule  got  away,  and  in  hunting  him  up,  silver  was 
found,  as  well  as  the  mule.  It  has  grown  by  a  constant  increase 
of  surprises ;  new  discoveries  of  rich  minerals  are  being  made, 
as  exploration  is  constantly  going  on,  and  this  district,  which  has 
been  worked  almost  continuously  for  more  than  three  hundred 
years,  still  startles  the  country  every  now  and  then  with  a  new 
and  rich  strike.  Zacatecas  may  be  ahead  of  Guanajuato  a  little, 
it  is  estimated  that  that  district  has  yielded  one  thousand  million 
dollars  in  gold  and  silver ;  but  Guanajuato  cannot  be  very  far 
behind.  The  annual  output  now  is  about  six  million  dollars.  If 
the  present  yield  had  been  the  average  for  three  hundred  years, 
the  result  would  be  eighteen  hundred  millions.  But  one  can  get 
some  idea  of  the  wealth  of  Mexico  in  its  mountains  when  he  re- 
calls the  fact  that  since  the  conquest,  Mexican  mines  of  gold  and 
silver  have  yielded  four  thousand  million  dollars,  or  about  three 
eighths  of  the  total  yield  of  the  globe  during  that  period.  They 
are  turning  out  now  about  fifty  millions  annually,  and  this  state 
of  Guanajuato  is  supplying  one  eighth  of  that  product.  It  is 
said  that  the  Valenciana  mine  alone  has  produced  more  than 
eight  hundred  million  dollars.  That  is  a  good  mine  to  visit,  by 
the  way,  for  it  has  a  convenient  stone  stairway  to  its  treasure 
house. 

"  There  are  a  great  many  reduction  works  here,"  observed  the 
Captain. 

"Yes,  more  than  fifty,"  said  the  Major.  "The  method  of 
extraction  used  here  is  the  same  as  that  at  Pachuca,  the  patio 
process,  but  now  a  large  quantity  of  ore  is  shipped  away  for 
treatment  in  smelters;  much  of  it  goes  to  San  Luis  Potosi." 

"What  is  inside  those  high  walls  over  there?"  asked  the  Cor- 
poral, pointing  to  the  north. 

"  That  is  the  cemetery  of  the  city,  the  patiieon,  as  they  call  it 
here.  About  ten  acres  of  ground  are  enclosed  by  walls,  per- 
haps ten  feet  high.  Bodies  are  deposited  in  chambers  such  as  you 
see  in  the  vaults  ia  our  cemeteries ;  I  told  you  about  that  in  Zaca- 


237 


tecas,  where  we  saw  some  bones  on  the  ground.  Here  there  is  an 
immense  sub-cemetery  where  the  bones  are  placed  at  the  expira- 
tion of  the  chamber  leases.  By  a  winding  stairway  you  descend 
into  this  great  charnel-house,  which  is  nearly  nine  hundred  feet 
long,  twenty  feet  wide,  and  more  than  twenty  feet  high.  The 
room  is  arched  and  well  lighted,  and  contains  all  that  is  left  of 
more  than  thirty  thousand  good  Mexicans.  Bones  and  skulls  are 
piled  up  at  either  end  of  this  storehouse,  indiscriminately  and 
without  reference  to  ownership.  It  beats  the  church  of  St. 
Ursula  in  Cologne  all  to  pieces." 

"  That  is  where  the  bones  of  the  eleven  thousand  virgins  are, 
isn't  it?"  said  the  Captain.  "I  remember;  those  relics  are 
nicely  arranged  along  the  walls  behind  glass." 

"  Yes,  but  these  are  thrown  in  as  they  come.  Don't  you  wish 
to  go  over  there,  Corporal?  " 

"  No,  I'd  rather  go  to  a  bull  fight." 

"  But  I  haven't  told  you  all  yet.  There  are  mummies  in  the 
room  too,  twenty  or  thirty  of  them.  They  are  worth  going  to 
see." 

"Well,  thank  you,  I  don't  care  to  see  them." 

"  Neither  do  I,"  added  the  Captain. 

"Do  look  at  that  man  with  a  water  jar  as  long  as  he  is," 
exclaimed    the  Corporal.     "That  is  a  new   thing." 

"  Yes,  styles  differ.  You'll  see  another  style  in  San  Luis.  The 
jars  you  have  seen  are  mostly  earthenware,  but  this  long  one 
is  made  of  leather. 

'  The  hills  are  so  steep,  and  the  streets  are  so  narrow, 
He  can't  carry  earthen  jars  on  a  wheelbarrow  ' 

in  Guanajuato ;  maybe  that's  the  reason  for  the  shape  of  these 
curious  articles.  We  must  happen  round  by  a  fountain  where  a 
regiment  of  these  aguadores  is  in  line  waiting  to  fill  up." 

"Where  does  the  water  that  supplies  the  city  come  from  ?  " 
asked  the  Captain. 

238 


"  From  springs  in  the  mountain  range  above.  The  supply 
is  not  equal  to  the  demand,  but  a  series  of  dams  across  the 
ravine  forms  reservoirs,  and  the  storage  system  here  constitutes 
the  most  remarkable  water  works  in  Mexico." 


Many  are  the  strange  and  interesting  things  in  and  about 
Guanajuato  ;  most  impressive  of  all  perhaps  the  wonderful  en- 
gineering of  the  city.  Nowhere  else  can  one  see  terraces  of 
artificial  lakes,  supplied  by  mountain  streams  and  supported  by 
enormous  retaining  walls.  Over  great  stone  dams  these  lakes 
discharge  their  waters  into  one  another  in  a  series  of  beautiful 
cascades ;  along  these  walls  and  overlooking  these  resevoirs  are 
situated  some  of  the  cosiest  and  costliest  houses  of  the  city. 
Vines  and  flowers  conceal  the  work  of  man,  and  nature  makes 
this  marvel  of  utility  a  masterpiece  of  beauty. 

"I  should  want  to  be  on  the  mountain  or  out  of  town  if  a 
break  occurred  in  one  of  these  walls,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  Breaks  have  occurred ;  at  least  there  have  been  terrible 
disasters  here  from  floods.  One  is  recc^rded  of  the  year  1760, 
and  the  latest  was  in  1885,  in  the  night,  when  a  vast  amount  of 
property  was  destroyed  and  many  lives  were  lost." 


239 


The  return  to  Marfil  was  quickly  made,  the  trip  being  down 
hill  all  the  way.  What  a  wonderful  road  that  is  through  the 
ravine,  what  sharp  curves,  what  solid  bridges,  and  what  dusty 
streets  ! 

On  the  way  back  to  Silao  the  Major  gave  the  boys  an  account 
of  the  martyr  and  patriot  Hidalgo. 

Miguel  Hidalgo  y  Costilla  was  parish  priest  of  Dolores,  a  lit- 
tle place  near  Guanajuato.  He  was  the  leading  spirit  in  the  effort 
to  liberate  Mexico  from  Spanish  rule.  His  plans  were  discovered 
before  he  was  ready  to  strike,  but  he  decided  to  defy  the  op- 
pressors with  what  forces  he  could  raise.  As  news  of  his  dis- 
covery was  brought  to  him  about  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  he  had 
but  one  way  of  rousing  the  people.  The  church  bells  of  Dolores 
were  rung,  and  the  alarmed  populace  rushed  to  the  plaza,  where 
Hidalgo,  with  a  musket  in  one  hand  and  a  torch  in  the  other,  met 
them,  told  them  of  the  proposed  movement  and  cried,  "  Long 
live  our  mother,  most  holy  Guadalupe,  long  live  America,  and 
death  to  bad  government."  This  was  the  declaration  of  inde- 
pendence. This  is  what  is  called  "The  Grilo,"  and  is  the 
national  watchword  with  which  the  President  of  the  Republic  be- 
gins the  annual  festivities  of  the  Mexican  Fourth  of  July.  These 
words  he  repeats  from  the  balcony  of  the  palace  in  the  capital  to 
the  thousands  assembled  to  hear  them  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night, 
on  the  15th  of  September,  the  anniversary  of  the  very  hour  when 
Hidalgo  uttered  them  at  Dolores  in  1810. 

The  first  blow  was  struck  at  Guanajuato.  He  and  his  follow- 
ers besieged  the  castle  and  captured  the  city.  He  moved  on 
with  his  followers,  daily  increasing  in  numbers  by  arrivals  from 
every  part  of  the  country,  and  defeated  the  viceroy's  army  in 
several  battles.  In  January,  181 1,  the  royal  forces  defeated  the 
rebels,  as  the  patriots  were  called,  and  Hidalgo,  with  the  other 
leaders,  Jimenez,  Allende,  and  Aldama,  fled  northward,  hoping  to 
reach  the  United  States.  They  were  betrayed  and  captured  in 
May  :  in  July  they  were  executed  at  Chihuahua.     Their  heads 


240 


were  brought  to  Guanajuato  and  exposed  on  the  Alhundiga  de 
Granaditas,  or  Castle,  which  they  had  captured  a  few  months  be- 
fore. Although  Hidalgo  was  slain,  the  cause  for  which  he  died 
found  defenders  and  friends  by  thousands.  Morelos,  another 
priest  and  brave  patriot,  welcomed  Hidalgo's  fate  for  liberty's  sake. 
Later,  Yturbide  accomplished  the  work  that  Hidalgo  com- 
menced, an  1  in  182 1  Spain  acknowledged  the  independence  of 
Mexico.  The  remains  of  the  patriots  were  taken  with  the  high- 
est honors  to  the  great  Cathedral  in  the  capital,  where  they  now 
rest  beneath  the  most  costly  altar  of  that  "  holy  metropolitan 
church  of  Mexico,"  the  Altar  of  the  Kings. 


241 


liHiBBiW"^ 


tllMiik^ 


XVIII. 

'  Then  you  have  an  immense  pleasure  to  come." 

High  Life  Below  Stairs. 

"  In  lands  of  palm,  of  orange  blossom, 
Of  olive,  aloe,  and  maize  and  vine." 

T/ie  Daisy. 

are  now  going  to  the  very  spot  where  the 
European  first  set  foot  on  the  American 
continent,"  said  the  Major,  as  the  train  left 
Aguas  CaUentes  for  Tampico.  "Americus 
Vespucius  landed  at  Tampico  in  1497,  and 
made  a  report  of  his  visit,  which  is  very 
interesting  reading." 

"Where  can  we  find  it?"  asked  the 
Captain. 

"In  Fiske's  history,  'Discovery  of 
"s^'  l^i^'^ WtSC-T^  America.'  Tampico  was  at  that  time 
^  called  Lariab.  Americus  tells  about 
a  big  g-une  dinner  that  he  had  there, 
which  clearly  shows  that  the  region  was  then,  as  now,  the  para- 
dise of  the  sportsman.  This  Columbian  year  is  a  good  one  for 
you  young  discoverers  to  devote  to  a  tour  of  exploration  in  this 
ancient  region.  Having  seen  where  Cortes  landed  in  15 19,  it 
will  be  interesting  to  stand  where,  thirty-two  years  before  him, 
stood  the  man  whose  name  the  New  World  bears." 


242 


18 

cr 

o  t 

rr     h« 


The  Tampico  train  runs  north  nine  miles  on  the 
main  line  to  Chicalote  station,  where  the  division 
branches  off  to  the  northeast.  For  an  hour  we 
continue  in  the  same  fertile  country  that  surrounds 
the  city  of  Aguas  Calientes,  and  then  begin  to  rise 
to  a  region  in  which  we  see  no  wheat  or  corn,  but 
ride  for  miles  through  fields  of  maguey.  We  pass 
a  number  of  unimportant  stations  with  pretty 
names  (San  Gil,  San  Marcos,  La  Honda),  but 
with  little  else  to  attract  attention.  The  Captain 
was  observing  the  landscape  closely,  as  his  ques- 
tions clearly  showed. 

"  How  is  this  country.  Major,  is  it  poor  land  ? 
I  notice  that  all  this  maguey  is  very  small.  There 
are  no  such  large  plants  as  we  saw  on  the  way  to 
Pachuca.  Does  that  indicate  that  the  soil  isn't 
able  to  produce  them?" 

"  No,  not  exactly  that,  although  this  region  may 
not  be  as  rich  as  that.  There  are  numerous  kinds 
of  maguey,  you  know,  just  as  there  are  various 
kinds  of  the  cactus.  This  is  the  first  time  we  have 
come  upon  this  plant,  which  is  the  mescal  maguey, 
and  not  the  pulque  plant ;  it  is  smaller  and  its 
product  is  not  secured  in  the  same  manner.  You 
remember  that  I  told  you  mescal  was  produced  by 
distillation,  while  pulque  was  obtained  by  fermen- 
tation of  the  natural  sap  of  the  plant." 

"Is  that  a  hacienda  over  there?"  asked  the 
Corporal. 

"Yes,  a  mescal  hacienda.  Rather  pretty  name, 
eh?  It  sounds  better  than  'whiskey  still,'  but 
that  is  what  it  is.  There  are  very  extensive  es- 
tablishments about  here,  —  no  moonshining  in 
Mexico." 


'  i 


243 


"Is  that  another?  "  asked  the  Captain,  pointing  to  a  walled  en- 
closure in  the  distance. 

"No  mescal  about  that,"  replied  the  Major.  "We  are  now- 
coming  to  the  Mexican  Syracuse.  Those  are  the  great  salt 
works  of  Pefion  Blanco  or,  in  Spanish,  Las  Salinas  del  Pefion 
I'lanco,  and  this  is  Salinas  station." 

"  Great  country  this,"  said  the  Captain  ;  "  it  has  on  hand  silver 
mountains,  sulphur  mines  with  automatic  openings,  onyx  mines, 
hot  springs,  and  here  a  salt  mine  !  " 


mmmmsam 


"  Not  exactly  a  mine,  though  it  is  worth  more  to  its  owners 
than  most  mines  are.  We  have  here  a  great  salt  lake  ;  its  ex- 
tent is  unknown." 

"  Why,  that  doesn't  seem  to  be  a  very  large  lake,"  said  the 
Captain,  pointing  to  a  large  pond,  near  the  train. 

"  Oh,  that  isn't  the  salt  lake  ;  that  is  a  little  fresh-water  lake, 
and  overlies  the  salt  one,  which  is  a  few  feet  below.  This  is  a 
two-story  lake  country,  if  you  please,  and  you'll  come  to  a  two- 
story  cave  between  here  and  Tampico." 


244 


"I  should  think  the  fresh  water  wouM  run  through  the 
ground  into  the  salt  lake,"  said  the  Corporal. 

"  So  it  would  if  it  weren't  for  a  water-tight  roof  over,  the  salt 
lake.  You  see  how  green  that  mud  looks  in  the  patio ;  that  is 
some  of  the  clay.  A  roof  of  that  material  prevents  percolation 
from  above.  But  for  a  large  i)art  of  the  year  there  is  no  fresh- 
water lake  here.  The  sun  licks  it  up  soon  after  the  rainy  season 
is  over.  We  are  in  a  valley  here,  but  we  are  nearly  eight  thou- 
sand feet  high.  Just  east  of  us  is  the  highest  point  on  this  divis- 
ion, and  only  two  stations  on  the  main  line,  Zacatecas  and  Leiia, 
are  higher." 

"How  do  they  get  the  salt  out  of  the  water?"  asked  the 
Corporal. 

"  They  don't,"  answered  the  Captain ;  "  they  get  the  water 
out  of  the  salt." 

"  That  is  chemistry  for  you,"  said  the  Major.  "  The  sun  does 
the  business.  Evaporation  is  the  process  chiefly  used  ;  but  as  the 
sun  doesn't  work  fast  enough,  steam  is  made  use  of.  You  see 
one  of  the  steam  salt  factories  yonder." 

"Where  does  all  this  salt  go  to?  "  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  It  goes  aU  over  Mexico.  The  mines  use  an  enormous  quan- 
tity ;  one  of  the  chief  materials  of  the  patio  process  of  ore  sepa- 
ration is  salt,  and  the  consumption  for  domestic  purposes  is  very 
great.  This  subterranean  lake,  with  the  sun  for  a  reduction 
works,  is  a  big  bonanza." 

"I  see  mules  at  work  over  there ;  what  are  they  doing?  " 

"  Yes,  the  mule  is  a  silent  partner  in  almost  every  business  in 
Mexico ;  not  always  silent,  for  sometimes  he  sings,  but  always  at 
work.  The  mules  are  pumping  the  water  into  the  vats.  See  the 
big  wheels  with  their  great  leather  buckets.  Those  revolving 
buckets  dip  the  salt  water  and  empty  it  into  troughs  which  carry 
it  to  the  evaporating  vats.  The  pumping  apparatus  is  called  a 
"noria,"  and  is  quite  an  ingenious  affair,  almost  as  primitive  as 
the  well  sweeps  of  Irapuato." 

245 


"  What  a  great  establishment  it  is  !  "  said  the  Corporal.  "  It 
looks  like  a  fort,  a  factory,  a  reduction  works,  and  a  residence  all 
in  one." 

"It  is  all  that,  and  more  too;  it  is  a  mint;  not  quite  as  fine 
in  appearance  as  the  park-like  property  at  the  Hercules  mill 
which  we  saw  at  Queretaro,  but  as  a  money-maker  it  can  discount 
that  mill.  You  see  the  raw  material  is  cheap,  the  machinery  is 
cheap  and  cheaply  run,  and  the  market  is  without  limit.     '  After 

you've  said  and  done  all, 
there's  nothing  like  salt,'  say 
the  men  of  Salinas." 

"  What  is  the  use  of  those 
walls?"  asked  the  Captain  ; 
"and  that  ditch  about  them 
filled  with  water?  Why, 
look  at  the  towers  and  the 
places  for  guards,  and  a 
drawbridge  over  the  moat ! 
What,  warder  ho,  let  the 
portcullis  fall." 

••  (  n  no  use  at  all  now  ;  a  fence  would  answer  all  present  needs 
of  protection,  but  there  was  a  time  when  things  were  different." 
"  How  long  has  the  lake  been  worked,  Major?  " 
"  About  fifty  years.  From  a  small  beginning  the  establishment 
has  grown  to  these  great  dimensions.  You  can  scarcely  get  an 
idea  of  the  size  of  it  without  making  a  tour  over  it.  There  are 
miles  of  railroad  track  on  the  property  serving  the  various  store- 
houses, and  connecting  them  with  the  road  and  the  station. 
This  is  one  of  the  great  freight  stations  of  the  line ;  salt,  salt, 
everlastingly  salt.  The  whole  town  of  five  thousand  people  lives 
on  salt." 

"Who  owns  this  concern?"  asked  the  Corporal. 
"  It  is  owned  by  a  family  or  estate,  but  it  is  said  that  not  one 
of  the  owners  has  lived  here  for  years.     There  is  within  those 


^ 

« 

1 ! 

k  ,^ ,: 

•^"'■^ 

(A      ■'■:- 

WL 

246 


massive  walls  a  buiUling  which  is  finer,  in  many  respects,  than 
the  palace  in  the  capital.  In  its  early  days  it  must  have  been  a 
regal  residence,  for  even  in  its  abandoned  state  it  surprises  and 
charms  the  visitor.  The  great  patios  are  parks  in  which  flowers 
and  fountains  blend  their  attractions,  and  it  would  seem  as  if 
any  one  might  be  contented  and  happy  there ;  but  Paris  is  good 
enough  for  these  people  as  long  as  salt  supplies  the  pesos.  The 
banquet  hall  of  their  castle  at  Salinas  is  deserted." 

There  are  no  other  stations  of  importance  until  we  reach  San 
Luis  Potosi,  but  the  country  through  which  we  run  for  the  next 
fifty  miles  is  not  without  interest  to  a  thoughtful  traveller.  We 
come  upon  new  vegetation,  or  at  least  upon  a  profuseness  of 
plants,  of  which  we  have  seen  but  scattered  specimens.  This 
seems  to  be  the  home  of  the  yucca,  and  certainly  the  fantastic 
prickly  pear  or  nopal,  which  forms  part  of  the  national  coat  of 
arms,  finds  here  its  most  congenial  climate  and  soil. 

After  a  very  comfortable  night  the  party  took  an  ante-break- 
fast stroll  about  San  Luis  Potosi.  They  went  past  the  Cathedral 
to  the  Alameda.  The  street  scenes  were  novel  ^^ 
and  characteristic,  but  the  trans- 
portation of  water  seemed  to  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  boys 
more  than  anything  else  did. 

"  Look  at  that  curious  old  wheel- 
barrow !"  exclaimed  the  Corporal. 
"What  is  it  loaded  with?" 

"And  what  kind  of  a  team  do 
you  call  that?"  said  the  Cap- 
tain.     "  Where    is    the    other 
steer?" 

"  Not  a  one-horse  team,  is  it?  " 
said  the  Major.    "  But  what  do  you  want  of  another  steer?    What 
is  that  saying  of  Goldsmith?     '  He  wlio  can  make  one  aninnal  do 
what  two  generally  do  is  a  benefactor  to  his  race.'     I  believe  he 

2-17 


spoke  of  blades  of  grass,  but  the  principle  is  the  same.  No  use 
for  two  when  one  will  answer,  but  it  looks  odd.  Both  these 
establishments  are  water-carts.  Styles  among  water-carriers  you 
know  differ  in  Mexican  cities.  You  saw  the  style  in  Guanajuato, 
and  here  you  see  two  other  styles  oji  wheels.     Curious  traps  ! 

1  Look  at  the  things  closely.  The 
:  wheels  have  no  spokes ;  they  are 
simply  round  pieces  of  plank.  It 
must  take  some  muscle  and  much 
push  to  propel  that  wheelbarrow." 

"This  is  a  beautiful  promenade," 
said  the  Captain,  as  they  reached  the 
Alameda. 

"  Fine,  and  a  gift  of  the  church  ; 
no,  not  exactly  a  gift,  but  a  kind  of 
forced  loan.  It  used  to  be  the  pri- 
vate garden  of  the  monks,  the  rec- 
reation place  for  the  pious  people 
connected  with  the  church  and  con- 
vent here.  But  one  day  the  govern- 
ment concluded  that  what  was  good 
for  the  pious  priests  was  good  for 
the  poor  people,  and  said,  'Brethren, 
give  us  this,'  and  they  gave  it,  after 
a  little  persuasion." 
"  You  mean,  after  considerable  confiscation,"  said  the  Captain  : 
"  that  reformation  was  quite  a  revolution,  wasn't  it?  " 

"  Yes,  it  was,  sure  enough.     It  left  its  marks  in  every  town." 
"  Do  you  recognize  that  handsome  building  over  yonder?  " 
"  Why,  that  is  the  Mexican  Central  station  !     It  is  a  beautv, 
and  right  in  the  city  too,  as  at    Guadalajara.      You  don't  see 
many  finer  railroad  stations  than  that  anywhere." 

"  No,  you  don't.     I  think  such  a  building  must  have  an  edu- 
cative influence  in  such  a  place  as  this.     It  teaches  the  people, 


IIIUAI,c;()    MONUMENT. 


TUNNELS    IN    TAMASOPD    CANON. 


who  never  have  seen  any  but  these  massive  adobe  and  stone 
walls,  that  grace  can  go  with  strength,  and  beauty  with  utility." 

Part  of  the  day  was  spent  in  a  visit  to  the  great  works  of  the 
Compaiiia  Metalurgica  Mexicana,  an  American  enterprise,  and 
the  largest  smelting  plant  in  the  country. 

This  is  an  institution  ' 
of  immense  importance 
both  to  the  Republic 
and  the  railroads  reach- 
ing San  Luis  Potosi. 
These  works  and  those 
at  Monterey  were  but 
recently  established, 
and  their  great  pros- 
perity will  perhaps  lead 
to  the  building  of  other 
plants  in  Mexico,  but 
certainly  to  the  enlarge- 
ment of  these  already 
in  operation  as  occa- 
sion requires. 

There  are  many  fine 
buildings  in  San  Luis 
Potosi.  The  govern- 
ment palace  is  attrac- 
tive in  appearance ;  the 
Cathedral  shows  some 
fine  stone  work  on  its 
towers.  There  are 
characteristic  paintings 
of   high   quality  in  the 

church  of  El  Carmen.  Much  can  be  seen  in  a  given  time  at  San 
Luis  by  taking  a  street  car  or  carriage  to  the  church  of  Guada- 
lupe, as  the  visitor  thus  takes  in  the  Paseo,  the  fountains,  the 


ClirKCII    OK   C.rADAI.UPE. 


249 


jail,  and  the  market  on  the  way,  and  reaches  something  worth 
eoingr  to  see  at  the  end  of  his  ride.  The  old  church  has  a  clock 
which  was  given  by  the  king  of  Spain. 

On  the  entrance  to  this  beautiful  sanctuary  are  these  comfort- 
ing and  inspiring  words  :  — 

AQUI    EI,    QUE    PIDE    RECIT3E 

EL    QUE    BUSCA    HALLA 
AL    QUI'".    ']OCA    SE    LE    ABRE 

"  Here  who  asks  receives,  who  seeks  finds,  to  him  who  knocks 
it  is  opened." 

San  Luis  has  a  population  of  63,500,  and  is  the  fourth  city  in 
the  Republic.  It  has  always  been  a  very  busy  and  flourishing 
place,  holding  the  same  relation  to  eastern  that  Guadalajara 
holds  to  western  Mexico.  The  surrounding  country  is  a  very 
fertile  district,  and  San  Luis  furnishes  a  ready  market  for  its 
produce.  The  rapid  growth  of  and  the  display  of  enterprise  in 
San  Luis  have  given  it  the  right  to  be  called  "the  Chicago  of 
Mexico." 

"  Thirty-seven  miles  from  San  Luis  we  come  to  Peotillos 
station,  which  takes  its  name  from  a  great  hacienda  about  three 
miles  north  of  the  track,"  said  the  Major  as  they  resumed  the 
journey.  "  This  hacienda  is  one  of  the  famous  establishments 
of  this  region  of  colossal  estates.  It  is  said  to  have  about  six 
thousand  dependants." 

"  Did  you  ever  visit  the  hacienda,  Major?" 

"  I  did,  and  a  gay  time  I  had  too." 

"  Tell  us  about  it  please,"  said  the  boys. 

"  With  pleasure,  but  words  cannot  describe  the  courtesy  and 
cordiality  with  which  one  who  is  properly  introduced  is  received 
there.  The  owners  in  San  Luis  had  telephoned  the  adminis- 
trador  to  have  carriages  at  the  station.  We  found  there  the 
administrador  himself  with  two  light  coaches  and  an  escort. 
Our  party  consisted  of  only  two,  a  gentleman  from  Virginia  and 

250 


myself.  Each  of  us  coiikl  ha\c  had  a  coach  with  driver  and 
outriders,  but  we  preferred  to  go  together;  so  we  rode  with  our 
host,  and  the  other  carriage  went  back  empty.  Half  an  hour 
brought  us  to  the  main  entrance  to  the  enclosure  of  the  hacienda. 
Grouped  together  here  were  a  chapel,  storehouses,  corrals,  and 
lastly,  an  immense  residence  which,  by  its  great  length  and  its 
high  veranda,  reminded  me  of  the  front  of  Congress  Hall  in 
Saratoga  Springs.  This  residence,  or  course,  was  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  our  visit.  Passing  through  the  grand  entrance  we  came 
into  a  great  patio,  in  which  was  a  fine  stone  fountain  and  a  great 
variety  of  semi-tropical  fruits  and  flowers.  After  refreshment 
of  various  but  delicious  kinds  in  the  salon,  a  great  room  hand- 
somely furnished  with  French  furniture  and  embellished  by  fine 
paintings,  we  were  shown  over  the  premises. 

"  From  the  tower  above  the  main  entrance  we  had  an  exten- 
sive view  over  the  whole  region.  We  could  see,  on  the  south,  our 
train  waiting  for  us  at  the  station ;  on  the  east,  the  great  fields  of 
maguey,  from  which  the  main  product  of  the  hacienda  is  obtained  ; 
on  the  west,  an  Indian  village,  a  curious  collection  of  thatched 
huts,  or  jacalcs,  as  they  are  called,  in  which  many  of  the  peons 
lived. 

"  A  curious  but  pathetic  scene  w-as  witnessed  when  we  came 
down  from  the  tower.  This  was  the  distribution  of  rations  to 
the  poor  dependants  of  the  hacienda.  Some  two  hundred 
people  are  fed  here  daily  at  the  expense  of  the  estate.  There 
have  been  two  bad  years  in  this  region ;  that  is,  years  without 
sufficient  rain,  and  corn  has  been  imported,  much  of  it  from  the 
United  States,  to  feed  these  people.  A  procession  was  formed, 
and  each  one  passing  the  distributor  received  a  ladleful  of 
cooked  corn  and  beans,  a  kind  of  succotash.  The  line  of  appli- 
cants included  both  sexes  and  all  ages.  The  child  hardly  as 
tall  as  the  great  earthen  jar  which  steamed  with  hot  rations, 
was  preceded  or  followed  hy  the  tottering  old  man  or  shrivelled 
old  woman,  and  all  were  in  rags. 

251 


"  It  was  an  interesting,  but  a  sad  and  touching  sight ;  one 
which  showed  the  other  side,  the  shady  side,  if  you  please,  of  the 
hacienda  life.  This  estate  has  expended  more  than  56o,ooo  in 
the  past  two  years  for  the  support  of  its  dependants.  Verily 
haciendados  have  their  '  hard  times '  as  well  as  their  luxurious 
seasons." 

At  the  next  station,  Villar,  we  are  thirteen  hundred  feet  below 
San  Luis,  and  now  begin  to  descend  more  rapidly  through  the 
San  Ysidro  valley.  Past  Cerritos  and  two  or  three  small  stations, 
we  rush  on  to  Cardenas,  where  a  good  meal  will  be  ready 
for  us.  We  notice  that,  below  Villar,  we  are  in  a  verdant  belt, 
spreading  at  last  into  a  vast  plain,  where  green  has  taken  the 
place  of  gray,  and  brightness  has  supplanted  brown  in  the  land- 
scape. Such  a  change  has  occurred  as  we  noticed  on  our  ride 
into  Real  del  Monte,  and  for  the  same  reason.     The  side  of  the 


100        125        ISO       17S        200       226        250       276       300       32S 
PROFILE   MAP   OF   TAMPICO   DIVISION. 


350       375        MO  U5  UUes 


valley  which  faces  the  gulf  receives  moisture,  while  the  other 
side  does  not.  Hence  in  all  these  lateral  valleys  and  on  the 
intervening  sloping  plains  we  find  the  same  thing;  one  side 
fresh  and  fruitful,  the  other  side  comparatively  dry  and  barren. 
A  reference  to  your  profile  of  the  line  will  give  you  the  clearest 
idea  of  our  progress  to  the  sea  level.  You  will  see  that  we  are 
going  down  stairs,  and  that  each  step  is  one  of  these  sloping 
plains.  These  plains  or  table  lands  of  different  levels  we  reach 
through  passes  and  caiions. 


252 


[ 


I 


I 


The  pass  through  which  we  are  going  down  to  the  next  step 
is  the  San  Ysidro.  The  profile  will  give  you  an  idea  of  the  grade 
(some  of  it  is  two  and  one  half  per  cent),  but  it  can  convey  no 
conception  of  the  crookedness  of  the  road.  The  taste  of  eigh- 
teen degree  curves  which  we  get  on  the  way  down  the  San  Jose 
mountains  is  a  good  preparation  for  the  feast  of  them  which  we 
shall  have  farther  on ;  and  the  scenery  too  is  a  vast  improvement 
on  any  that  we  have  had  since  we  left  Aguas  Calientes.  We  are 
reminded  of  the  "Notch"  in  New  Hampshire. 

"  Curious  names  along  here,"  said  the  Captain,  looking  on 
the  map  ;  "  this  one  is  pretty.  La  Joya,  the  jewel." 

"How  about  this  one,  El  Gato,  the  Tom-cat?"  said  the  Major. 

Cerritos  is  the  most  important  station  between  San  Luis  and 
Cardenas.  The  country  about  here  is  very  fertile  and  the  valley 
very  extensive.  Large  towns  are  at  a  little  distance  both  north 
and  south  of  Cerritos.  On  the  north  is  El  Maiz  in  the  centre  of 
a  great  grain  region,  and  on  the  south  the  city  of  Rio  Verde,  on 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  the  business  centre  of  a  remarkable 
fruit  country. 

"  By  the  way.  Corporal,  what  would  you  think  of  a  smoked 
orange?  "  asked  the  Major. 

"  A  smoked  orange  !   I  never  heard  of  such  a  thing." 

"  Neither  did  I,  anywhere  else,  but  they  say  that  the  Rio 
Verde  people  smoke  their  oranges  as  we  smoke  hams." 

"Why?"  asked  the  Captain;  "I  should  think  it  would  spoil 
their  flavor." 

"Well,  I  suppose  they  know  what  they  are  about.  They 
claim  that  smoking  them  keeps  them  fresh." 

A  run  of  about  fifty  miles,  passing  the  unimportant  stations 
San  Bartolo  and  Las  Tablas,  brings  us  to  Cardenas,  the  end  of  the 
six-hour  run  from  San  Luis  Potosi,  in  which  we  have  dropped 
nearly  twenty-two  hundred  feet. 

Cardenas  is  an  important  station  for  the  passenger ;  here  he 
gets  a  good  meal.     Quaint  little  place    this  Cardenas  ;  most  of 

253 


it  lies  "  under  the  hill "  below  the  station.  Near  the  track  there 
is  a  large  storehouse,  or  hacienda,  if  you  please,  belonging  to  the 
governor  of  the  state  of  San  Luis  Potosi.  Corn  is  the  chief 
product  of  the  region. 

There  is  a  rich  agricultural  district  south  of  this  point  watered 
bv  the  Rio  Verde,  which  runs  for  many  miles  nearly  parallel  with 

-  the  road  at  a  distance  of, 
perhaps,  fifteen  miles. 

The    station    house    at 
Cardenas   is    a   fine    sub- 
i^ stantial  building,  and  one 

that  makes  a  wonderfiil 
contrast  with  the  prevail- 
ing architecture  of  the 
natives. 

Leaving  Cardenas  we 
skirt  the  stream  and  pass 
immediately  through  a 
great  cut  which  leads  us 
to  the  green  western  side 
of  another  valley  named 
Canoas, 

From  Cardenas  we  must 
get  down  four  thousand 
feet,  and  we  must  be 
about  it  ;////!'  proi.to,  no 
maiiana  about  it.  We  be- 
gin in  the  cut  and  down 

BAMBOO.  .     ,  ,,    ■ 

we  go  mto  this  cup  or 
canoe,  as  it  is  named.  What  fantastic  sides  the  valley  has ! 
The  soil  of  the  bottom  is  red  and  evidently  rich,  for  you  see  great 
fields  of  corn  and  wheat,  and  along  the  little  stream  great  cy- 
press trees  which  tell  you  of  another  change,  this  time  a  change 
of  climate  as  well  as  of  vegetation.     But  the  sides  of  the  cup  ! 


2$4 


they  are  high  mountains,  which  do  not  slope  off  gradually  into  a 
plain  as  those  do  which  we  have  seen  along  our  journey.  These 
mountains  seem  to  have  been  pushed  up  through  the  edges  of 
the  valley,  and  their  peaked  points  are  directly  above  us.  Here 
and  there  are  strange  formations  of  rock,  some  of  them  project- 
ing into  the  valley  from  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  some  of 
them  standing  quite  alone.  Near  the  Canoas  station  is  one  of 
these  formations  which  will  attract  special  attention.  It  has  the 
appearance  of  an  immense  turreted  castle  wall. 

This  valley  of  Canoas  has  an  elevation  of  about  three  thousand 
six  hundred  feet,  and  a  most  genial  climate.  It  is  an  ideal 
spot.  Some  of  the  officials  of  the  road  say  that  they  had  much 
rather  live  in  this  valley  than  in  any  other  place  they  know  of  in 
Mexico. 

Just  as  we  leave  Canoas  we  begin  a  long  toboggan  slide. 
The  steep  decline  begins  at  a  little  bridge  near  the  station ; 
we  feel  the  plunge  the  moment  we  pass  that  point.  The  slide 
is  twenty-eight  miles  long,  extending  from  Canoas  to  Rascon. 
It  takes  about  two  hours  and  a  half  to  make  the  trip,  but  the 
traveller  would  forgive  the  management  if  it  would  allow  five 
hours  to  this  section  of  road.  There  is  no  more  delightful 
scenery  on  any  railroad  line  in  the  world  than  that  which  greets 
the  eye  in  the  few  hours  spent  between  Cardenas  and  Rascon. 
The  charming  valley  of  Canoas  is  quickly  succeeded  by  the 
yawning  gulf  or  gorge  of  Tamasopo  —  the  straight  line  by  the 
tortuous  trail.  The  plain  is  succeeded  by  precipitous  mountains 
sloping  a  thousand  feet  below  us  to  the  stream,  and  a  thousand 
feet  above  us  toward  the  sky.  Clinging  to  the  sides  of  these 
mountains  the  road  parallels  the  river,  piercing  numerous  sharp 
points  with  tunnels.  It  is  supported  in  many  places  by  enor- 
mous retaining  walls.  Across  the  little  stream,  which  far  below 
gUstens  like  a  thread  of  silver,  rise  the  mountains  which  are  the 
counterparts  of  these  on  whose  sides  we  are  smoothly  sliding. 
We  can  get  a  somewhat  adequate  idea  of  what  man  has  achieved 

255 


here  over  nature  by  imagining  how  great  a  work  would  be  neces- 
sary to  render  it  as  easy  and  as  safe  for  us  to  ride  along  those 
mountain-sides  as  we  find  it  to  ride  along  these.  Had  we  not 
ocular  demonstration  to  contradict  us,  we  should  say  at  once  that 
it  could  not  be  done. 

The  peculiar  charm  of  this  grand  cafion  of  the  Tamasopo  is 
the  verdure  of  the  mountains  from  base  to  summit.  In  the 
Toltec  gorge  and  in  the  grand  canon  of  the  Arkansas  in  Colo- 
rado we  are  awed  by  the  masses  of  bare  rock  which  tower  above 
us  or  yawn  below  us,  but  here  we  seem  to  be  floating  along  on 
the  tree-tops.  The  moisture  which  comes  from  the  sea  supplies 
the  vegetation  of  the  caiion  with  ample  and  constant  means  of 


Ills   l;r^N'    !■ 


growth,  and  the  mountains  are  arrayed  in  green,  even  though  the 
plains  above  may  enjoy  no  rain  for  months  at  a  time.  The 
sense  of  grandeur  is  not  wanting,  but  the  sense  of  beauty  sur- 
passes it  in  the  mind  of  the  observer.  When  one  comes  at  last 
to  stand  on  the  height  above  the  mouth  of  the  cafion,  and  to 
look  down  upon  the  great  valley  spread  out  at  his  feet,  shining 
in  its  gorgeous  mantle  of  tropical  hues  and  stretching  away  to 


256 


,i,  >\i,i()   KKL  ai;ra   hi.   l  Ar.Ai,i,i:i<(  i.s. 


other  mountains  beyond,  he  feels,  "  even  nature  could  no  further 
go,"  and  that  he  is  beholding  one  of  the  great  finished  views  of 
the  world.  Edward  Everett  said  it  was  worth  a  trip  across  the 
ocean  to  see  where  the  Potomac  breaks  through  the  mountains 
at  Harper's  Ferry ;  he  certainly  would  have  thought  it  worth 
a  journey  from  Boston  or  from  Pekin  to  stand  on  Monument 
Rock  at  Prospect  Point  and  feast  his  eyes  on  this  picture  ot 
the  Tamasopo. 

From  Prospect  Point  we  see  just  below  us  the  mouth  of  the 
great  canon  along  the  southern  wall  of  which  we  have  been  wind- 
ing for  the  past  hour,  and  down  which  we  have  to  creep  yet 
another  hour.  On  the  left  is  the  lofty  mountain  range  that 
forms  the  northern  wall  of  the  canon,  and  before  you  the  carpet- 
like plain,  bordered  by  palms  and  other  tropical  trees,  and 
checkered  by  plantations  of  sugar-cane.  Over  all  the  landscape 
is  that  charm  which  Wordsworth  saw  in  a  picture,  "  The  light 
that  never  was  on  sea  or  land."  This  magnificent  view  remains 
some  time  in  sight  as  we  ride  along  the  mountain-side,  for  the 
track  turns,  at  the  Point,  sharply  to  the  south.  We  trace  our 
road  down  to  the  plain  by  the  line  of  clearing,  forward,  and  back, 
and  around,  and  then  straight  away  through  the  forest.  The 
track  is  seen  at  four  different  points,  each  on  a  different  level 
below  us.  And  what  is  that  in  the  dim  distance  beyond  the 
trees?  A  train  waiting  for  us  to  pass  and  give  it  the  right  of 
way  up  the  mountain. 

"Well,  this  beats  all  the  railroading  of  my  life,"  exclaimed  the 
Corporal,  as  the  train  turned  the  Point. 

"Nothing  so  grand  as  this  have  I  ever  seen,"  said  the  Cap- 
tain. "Look  where  we  shall  soon  be  —  there  —  and  there  — 
and  there  !  " 

"Yes,  indeed,  'and  there'  once  more,"  said  the  Major,  point- 
ing to  a  gap  in  the  eastern  range  beyond  the  valley ;  "  through 
that  we  pass  to  yet  another  plain,  and  that  plain  is  even  more 
extensive  than  this  now  before  us." 


257 


Wonders  of  engineering  seemed  to  increase  as  they  looked 
from  the  left  side  of  the  train  in  the  descent.  There  is,  not  far 
from  the  Point,  a  remarkable  slump  in  the  mountain.  There 
has  been  a  "subsidence";  in  other  words,  the  bottom  or  floor 

has  dropped  out, 
and  the  roof  has 
dropped  in,  leav- 
ing an  enormous 
funnel-like  depres- 
sion. It  is  called 
by  the  natives  El 
Hoyo  de  San  Jose 
(St.  Joseph's  Pit). 
Around  this  crater 
the  road  must  run, 
RAiiRDAP  TOBOGGAN.  and,  in  finding  its 

way  down,  the  train  goes,  within  fifteen  minutes,  south,  east, 
north,  east  again,  then  southeast,  and  at  last  nortlieast  to  the 
station  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

"  Look  up  there  !  See  where  we  have  come  from  !  "  exclaimed 
the  Corporal,  pointing  to  the  mountain. 

"  If  you  could  look  ahead,  my  boy,  you  would  exclaim,  '  See 
what  we  are  coming  to  ! '  you  are  in  wonderland,  and  although 
you  don't  seem  to  know  it,  you  are  right  now  in  a  coffee  grove  ! 
See  the  shiny  green  leaves  and  the  tiny  red  berries  !  " 
"Sure  enough,  but  I  thought  we  were  in  a  forest." 
"  And  so  we  are.  The  coffee  plant  must  have  shade,  and  so 
is  planted  under  other  trees  when  possible.  This  is  the  only 
cijfetal,  or  coffee  grove,  that  we  pass  directly  through.  But  here 
we  are  close  by  one  of  the  great  curiosities  of  this  wonderful  re- 
gion—  a  natural  bridge.  The  natives  call  it  Puente.de  Dios 
(the  bridge  of  God). 

"  On  our  left,  a  half-mile  from  the  track  down  in  the  stream 
that  we  saw  in  the  bottom  of  the  great  canon  as  we  came  along. 


258 


is  this  bridge  of  stone.  It  is  just  below  one  of  the  prettiest 
pools  in  the  world,  one  that  might  be  properly  named  '  Monte- 
zuma's Bath.'  It  is  worthy  of  a  royal  name  and  a  princely 
patron ;  and  when  an  easy  way  of  reaching  it  is  provided,  as  it 
will  be  some  day,  everybody  who  goes  over  the  road  will  take  a 
side  trip  down  to  this  wonderful  grotto. 

"The  water  in  the  pool  is  blue.  The  'Blue  Juniata'  is  gray 
compared  with  this  Tamasopo,  hitherto  unknown  to  fame.  The 
main  body  of  the  stream  comes  down  in  a  cataract  and  reaches 
the  pool  by  a  fall  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet ;  but  a  part  is  sepa- 
rated above,  and  finds  its  way  into  the  pool  in  a  dozen  little 
streams,  over  the  mossy  rim  of  the  basin.  These  rills,  rushing 
out  from  beneath  the  overhanging  foliage  of  palms  and  ferns 
and  vines,  present  a  charming  picture.  To  get  a  good  view  of 
the  arch  it  is  necessary  to  go  in  swimming." 

"That  would  suit  me,"  interrupted  the  Captain, 

The  whole  stream  does  not  run  under  the  arch,  there  isn't  room 
for  it ;  but  the  water  has  chiselled  a  cavern  of  several  rooms  from 
the  rock,  as  well  as  made  this  arched  bridge.  It  may  be  possible 
that  the  lime  from  the  spray  of  the  water  has  /'/////  up  the  whole 
promontory  which  faces  the  cataract  and  forms  the  lower  side 
of  the  pool.  This  formation  of  stone  is  constantly  going  on 
there  ;  Umbs  of  trees  are  found  encrusted  with  lime  an  inch  and 
even  two  inches  thick.  The  limbs  have  rotted  away  and  left  the 
rock  looking  like  a  tube.  .  Many  beautiful  specimens  of  such 
formation  have  been  taken  from  there. 

On  now  through  a  new  world  of  trees  and  flowers  and  ferns,  a 
perfect  tangle  of  tropical  luxuriance.  Moss  sways  from  the 
limbs,  and  thousands  of  bright  orchids  make  us  think  we  are 
in  some  great  orchard  of  strange  trees  loaded  with  a  stranger 
fruit.  If  this  isn't  fairyland,  we  shall  not  see  it  on  this  trip,  or 
on  any  other. 

Passing  the  station  Tamasopo,  where  the  waiting  train  is  on 
the  siding,  and  another  small  stopping  place,  we  come,  after  a 

255 


short  run  across  the  plain  to  Rascon,  a  small  but  important 
place  ;  important  to  us  as  a  place  of  refreshment,  and  to  the  rail- 
road company  as  headquarters  of  the  operating  department  for 
the  mountain  service.  The  company  has  considerable  property 
at  Rascon.  The  station  building  is  handsome  and  commodious. 
The  shops  are  large  and  fully  equipped,  as  they  must  be,  to  meet 
the  requirements  of  a  mountain  division.  Here  is  the  home  of 
the  largest  locomotives  in  the  world.  The  company  has  just 
placed  three  of  these  monster  machines  on  this  mountain  sec- 
tion.     They   are    double-truck,    compound    engines    peculiarly 


MOrNTAIN    ENGINE. 


adapted  to  freight  service  on  heavy  grades  and  sharp  curves. 
They  have  two  boilers  with  fire  boxes  placed  back  to  back,  and 
the  driving  wheels  are  carried  by  two  swivelling  truck  frames,  one 
under  each  boiler.  Look  at  the  picture  and  you  will  under- 
stand all  about  them,  perhaps.  The  weight  of  each  engine  is 
two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pounds  ! 

This  is  the  region  of  the  palm  and  bamboo  :  it  is  also  one  of 
the  sugar  sections  of  Mexico.  The  home  of  the  parrot  and  of 
the  monkey  is  not  far  away.     Great  haciendas  are  near  by,  and 


260 


although  the  country  is  sparsely  settled,  its  production  is  small 
only  in  comparison  with  what  it  might  be,  and  doubtless  will  be 
before  long.     The  railroad  makes  as  well  as  takes  business. 

"  What  a  day  we  have  had  !"  said  the  Captain. 

"Yes,"  said  the  Corporal,  "and  it's  only  half  a  day  at  that." 

"Think  of  it,"  said  the  Major,  "  only  forty-two  miles  from 
Cardenas  !  in  a  few  hours,  between  breakfast  and  dinner,  we 
have  dropped  three  thousand  feet,  and  come  into  what  is  a  new 
world  to  you,  where  we  are  not  one  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
And  how  much  we  have  seen  that  is  grand  and  strange  !  Climate 
has  changed,  vegetation  is  different,  a  new  style  of  architecture 
appears.  Where  in  the  world 
outside  of  Mexico  can  you  find 
such  contrasts  and  changes  in 
so  short  a  time  ?  " 

At  the  station  of  Micos  (the 
monkeys),  fifteen  miles  from 
Rascon,  we  enter  upon  another 
cailon,  which  is  called  El  Abra 
de  Caballeros.  The  Caballeros 
(Cavaliers)  are  the  two  bold 
mountains  rising,  one  on  either 
side,  above  the  river  along  which 
the  track  runs  through  the 
canon.  In  this  short  canon  is 
some  of  the  finest  scenery  on 
the  line.  The  river  is  a  con- 
stant delight,  and  at  the  mouth 
of  the  canon  it  surprises  us  by  a  series  of  cascades  called  El 
Salto  del  Abra  de  Caballeros.  I'he  waters  here  make  a  descent 
of  three  hundred  feet.  Immediately  above  the  cascades,  across 
the  river  from  the  track,  rises  an  immense  cone-shaped  mountain 
fully  two  thousand  feet  high.  Its  side  towards  us  is  a  precipitous 
cliff,  which  is  largely  covered  by  vegetation  of  the  brightest  green, 


261 


and  looks  like  a  great  rug  hung  out  for  an  airing.  The  waters 
seem  to  catch  the  hue,  for  they  are  green  also,  but  their  appear- 
ance is  accounted  for  by  the  moss  on  the  rocks  over  which  they 
pass.  The  view,  looking  up  the  river  here  from  the  rear  of  the 
train,  is  indescribably  beautiful. 

But  looking  forward  also  we  have  a  view  which  reaches  the 
limits  of  the  power  of  sight.  Here,  as  at  Prospect  Point,  we  are 
high  above  a  vast  plain  which  stretches  away  almost  to  the  sea. 


To  get  down  to  the  level  of  this  plain  we  turn  to  the  right  just 
below  the  falls,  and  run  along  the  mountain-side,  having  in  sight 
the  valley  and  the  almost  boundless  plain.  We  pass  through  Valles, 
a  station  of  some  importance,  and  arrive  at  El  Abra,  which,  for 
a  while  at  least,  was  the  "heaviest"  station  on  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral line.  We  mean  that  here  the  heaviest  loads  were  taken,  and 
the  greatest  number  of  them.  As  they  approached  the  station 
the  Major  said,  "  Here  we  come  to  something  interesting,  boys." 

"Why,  it  looks  like  a  railroad  camp,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  That's  what  it  is.  Let's  look  round ;  there's  lots  to  see 
that  you  won't  see  elsewhere,  and  that  won't  be  here  long." 


262 


"  What  curious  huts  and  what  odd-looking  clothes  !  "  said  the 
Corporal.     "  And  what  a  box  in  the  rocks  this  place  is  ! " 

"Not  much  clothes,  anyhow,"  said  the  Captain.  ^' See  that 
procession  of  water-carriers  !  The  whole  village  seems  to  be 
out  for  water." 

"  Yes ;  there  is  no  supply  here,  and  water  is  brought  in  tanks 
on  flat  cars.  When  a  car  arrives  the  chief  business  is  toting 
jars  and  cans  till  the  tanks  are  empty.  Round  here  there  is 
nothing  like  stone,"  said  the  Major. 

"  I  should  say  nothing  but  stone,"  added  the  Corporal. 
"  That  quarry  looks  like  it  sure.  See  the  men  up  yonder  drill- 
ing.    They  are  blasting  away  a  whole  mountain." 

"What   for?"  asked  the  Captain;   "  for  the  railroad?" 

"  Not  exactly,  but  indirectly.  The  stone  is  taken  to  Tampico 
and  thrown  into  the  sea  to  make  a  wall.  You  know  they  are 
building  jetties  there.  Well,  here  you  see  the  beginning  of  the 
downward  career  of  this  mountain,  and  there  you  will  see  the 
end  of  it." 

"This  is  robbing  Peter  to  pay  Paul." 

"No;  not  quite  so  bad  as  that,"  replied  the  Major.  "Paul 
has  to  pay  Peter  something  on  account.  Peter  gives  rock,  and 
Paul  pays  for  it  in  part  by  sending  back  sand  for  road  ballast. 
This  is  a  kind  of  '  balance  of  trade '  affair.  At  present  the 
balance  is  against  the  sea,  but  it  is  expected  that  when  the  work 
is  done,  the  sea  will  refund  all  the  outlay.  Tampico  is  to  be  the 
chief  seaport  of  Mexico  on  the  Atlantic,  and  this  division  will  be 
the  greatest  business  piece  of  railroad  in  the  Republic.  You  see 
what  it  has  to  attract  the  sight-seer,  but  it  wasn't  built  for 
scenery,  it  was  built  for  business  and  is  bound  to  have  it.  This 
outlay  of  millions  at  Tampico  is  only  a  loan  which  the  gulf  must 
pay  back  with  perpetual  interest." 

"  How  much  rock  have  they  taken  from  here?  " 

"  I  was  told  about  thirty-seven  thousand  car-loads.  Corporal, 
how  many  tons  in  that,  say  at  fifteen  tons  to  a  car?  " 

263 


"Something  over  half  a  million." 
"  Heavy  business  at  this  station,  I  should  say." 
"  Yes,  but  it  won't  last  long,  as  the  work  is  nearly  done.  As 
you  say,  there  is  nothing  here  but  stone,  and  soon  these  Indians 
will  have  to  move  on  to  some  other  work.  They  are  like  poor 
Joe.  Let  us  hope  they  will  find  some  paying  work  to  do  else- 
where ;  when  here 

They  fold  their  tents  like  the  Arabs, 
And  silently  steal  away.' 

We  are   now  in  the  last  '  pass "  of  our  journey.     Through  this 
'  Boca  del  Abra '  we  come  to  the  last  plain,  but  we  have  much  to 

see  in  the  next  ten  miles," 
continued  the  Major; 
"and  first  the  Cathedral^ 
"What,  a  church  here  !" 
exclaimed  the  Corporal. 

"  Not  exactly,  but  a  cave 
which  I  call  the  Cathedral, 
on  account  of  its  resem- 
blance to  one.  I'll  tell  you 
about  it,  and  you  can  see 
for  yourself  whether  I  tell 
you  the  truth  about  it.  It 
is  a  short  distance  up  the 
mountain  above  the  track. 
The  ascent  to  this  place  is 
accomplished  by  means  of 
I  ut-stone  steps!  Think 
■j^ti^^mssBB^sss^mmmmm^'  d'  that!     Passing  through 

I  large  vestibule,  you  find 
yourself  in  a  cross-shaped  room  of  magnificent  proportions,  with 
arch  and  dome.  On  either  side  are  smaller  rooms,  chapels  if 
you  please,  just  as  you  see  them  in  the  churches.     The  whole 


264 


edifice  is  lighted  through  skyhghts.  The  walls,  being  colored 
light  gray,  reflect  the  light  enough  to  make  it  easy  to  see  every- 
thing in  the  cave." 

"  Who  could  have  put  in  those  cut-stone  steps  and  those 
skylights?"  asked  the  Corporal.  "Are  you  telling  us  a  foiry 
tale.  Major?" 

"  Not  at  all,  you'll  see  for  yourself  in  a  little  while.  Nature 
made  the  windows  when  she  built  the  Cathedral.  The  sun 
furnishes  the  light,  and  the  railroad  people  made  the  steps  for 
the  convenience  of  pilgrims.  Strange,  but  true,  there  is  a 
garden  in  one  of  the  chapels,  and  in  every  window  there  are 
plants,  and  flowers,  and  vines,  and  even  trees.  Such  'window 
gardening '  you  never  saw  in  your  life.  Then  there  are  statues, 
as  white  and  nearly  as  life-like  as  some  you  have  seen  in  the 
old  churches  in  Mexico.  One  of  these  looks  like  St.  Peter, 
and  is  named  for  him ;  others  are  smaller,  and  some  are  broken. 
You  may  be  sure  that 

'  'Tis  like  some  Bedlam  statuary  dream, 
The  crazed  creation  of  misguided  whim, 
That,  like  a  giant  wroth. 
Rushed  down  impetuously,  as  seized  at  once, 
By  sudden  frost,  with  all  his  hoary  locks. 
Stood  still.' 

I  don't  think  frost  had  much  to  do  with  this  St.  Peter,  but  he's 
there  and  he  stands  still." 

"And  the  train  is  stopping  !"  exclaimed  the  Captain.  "  Now 
we'll  see  this  Cathedral  for  ourselves." 

As  they  climbed  the  mountain  the  Corporal  said,  "  Sure  as 
you  live,  here  are  cut-stone  steps." 

"Well,  only  a  few,"  said  the  Cajitain. 

"A  few  is  eight,  according  to  good  authority,"  said  the  Major, 
defending  his  statement.  "  All  the  steps  are  stone,  and  some  of 
them  are  cut  stone;  that's  true,  isn't  it?  And  now  for  the  sky- 
lights and  the  window  gardening." 

265 


-  I 


"  Literally  true,"  said  the  Captain,  as  he  looked  with  astonish- 
ment at  the  entrance,  the  vestibule,  the  statuary,  and  plants  on 
the  floor  and  on  the   roof  of  tlie  cave.     "Wonderful!  and  just 

like  a  cathedral !      And   the 
/^k    walls  are  frescoed  too." 

"  It  does  look  so  !     That 
is  color  from  some  mineral. 
The  skylights  are  here,  you 
1  see.  Captain." 

"  Yes,  there  is  a  great  deal 
here  that  you  didn't  men- 
tion." 

"  See,  here  is  a  tree  grow- 
ing up  straight  through  the 
skylight  from  the  floor  of  the 
church,"  said  the  Corporal. 
"It  is  as  large  and  as  straight 
as  a  telegraph  pole." 

"  Yes,  my  boy,  but  it  grew 
doian  first  from  the  dome  to 
the  floor,  and  then  grew  up 
again.  See  these  little  hair- 
like tendrils  reaching  down  ;  they  will  keep  on  till  they  find  the 
soil,  and  taking  root  they  will  grow  and  grow  till  they  are  as 
large  as  this  one.  You  see  hundreds  oi  them.  ' 
"What  made  these  statues?"  asked  the  Corporal. 
"  Drippings  from  the  lime  rock  above.  You  see  those  stalactites 
hanging  from  the  ceiling,  like  icicles.  In  time  they  may  reach 
the  floor,  and  in  time  they  will  become  columns  or  assume  the 
shape  of  statues  or  take  some  fantastic  form.  It  has  taken 
much  longer  probably  to  build  this  Cathedral  than  any  one 
you  ever  saw." 

"Well,  it  is  a  beauty  anyhow.  I  didn't  know  we  could  see 
anything  like  this  on  our  trip,"  said  the  Corporal, 


266 


"This  is  fine,  but  is  not  as  large  as  another  cave  not  very 
far  from  here,  more  difficult  to  reach.  'l"he  entrance  to  that 
one,  being  very  large,  can  be  seen  in  the  mountain-side  a  long 
distance  off,  and  the  name  of  it  is  La  Ventana  (the  Window). 
It  is  said  that  the  great  hall  in  that  cave  is  seven  hundred  feet 
high,  and  that  it  is  lighted,  as  this  one  is,  through  oi)enings  in 
the  roof" 


"That  is  a  stunner  ! " 
exclaimed  the  Corporal ; 
"but  the  Cathedral  is 
cave  enough  for  me." 

As  they  came  out  they 
were  greeted  with  a  scold- 
ing kind  of  chatter  by  a 
flock  of  little  parrots  who 
hovered  over  them,  some- 
times coming  quite  near. 

"  A  short  ride  along  the  W 
mountain-side,"  said  the 
Major,  "  will  bring  us  to 
another  cave,  in  which  a 
great  pool  can  be  seen. 
That  one  is  below  the 
railroad;  in  fact,  the 
track  goes  exactly  over 
the  skylight,  and  you  can 
see  the  pool  from  the 
track."  * 

The  boys  had  learned 
by  this  time  that  the  Ma-  fj 
jor's  statements  could  be  '- 
entirely  trusted,  and  so  expressed  no  doubt.  In  a  few  minutes 
they  had  an  opportunity  to  see  for  themselves  again.  As  the 
train  came  upon  an  iron  bridge,  the  Major  said,  "  Here  we  are 


267 


at  Choy  Cave.  Look  over  the  rail  now  as  the  car  passes  this 
bridge." 

The  boys  looked  as  directed,  and  sure  enough  there  was  the 
stream  two  hundred  and  five  feet  beneath  them. 

"Now,"  continued  the  Major,  "  as  you  have  seen  the  water 
from  the  bridge,  it  is  only  right  that  you  should  see  the  bridge 
from  the  water.     Let  us  go  down  and  verify  my  story." 

Down  the  sidehill  on  cut-stone  steps  (a  few  again)  and  into 
the  first  opening  of  the  cave  the  party  found  themselves  on  a 
steep   incline   of  broken   stone.     Had  they  gone  a  little  farther 


LOOKING    OIT    OF    CHOY    CAVE. 

down  on  the  outside  they  would  have  had  an  easier  time  inside, 
but  they  did  not  know  this  fact  until  the  return  trip  out  of  the 
cave.  There  are  two  parts  to  this  lofty  cave,  each  having  a  sky- 
light as  in  the  Cathedral.  At  the  bottom  is  a  pool  which  is  a 
wonder  in  extent  and  in  weird  attractiveness.  No  bath,  natural 
or  artificial,  of  which  they  had  knowledge  by  sight  or  by  story, 
had  even  suggested  to  the  boys  such  a  scene  as  was  now  before 


268 


CHOY    CAVE. 


them.  The  west  wall  of  the  cave  rises  in  a  curve  to  the  dome, 
two  hundred  and  five  feet  above.  Through  the  opening  at  the 
top,  directly  overhead,  could  be  seen  the  bridge  from  which  they 
had  looked  down  upon  the  pool  a  little  while  before.  The  cave 
runs  into  the  mountain  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  but  loses  its 
great  height  as  it  recedes.  The  pool  is  a  "  still  place  "  in  the 
swift  stream  which  resumes  its  rapid  pace  at  the  mouth  of  the 
cave.  It  is  said  that  this  is  a  lost  river  which  comes  to  the  sur- 
face here ;  certainly  there  is  no  sign  of  a  stream  on  the  moun- 
tain above  the  cave.  The  pool  is  about  fifty  feet  wide,  three 
hundred  feet  long,  and  very  deep.  Near  the  lower  end  the 
bottom  can  be  seen  twenty  or  thirty  feet  down,  and  so  clear  is  the 
water  that  a  stone  sinking  in  it  can  be  seen  till  it  reaches  that 
depth,  but  farther  up  the  stream  is  much  deeper. 

"This  is  immense  !  "  said  the  Captain. 

"  Perfectly  tremendous  !  "  said  the  Corporal. 

"  Big  words,  boys,  but  this  is  a  great  natural  curiosity  and  no 
mistake ;  the  oftener  one  sees  it,  the  more  wonderful  it  seems. 
Four  hours  now  to  Tampico,"  said  the  Major,  as  they  re- 
sumed the  journey,  "  through  a  country,  tame,  of  course,  com- 
pared with  that  we  have  passed,  but  not  without  interest  to  the 
traveller.  We  can  look  and  at  the  same  time  talk  about  some 
of  the  things  we  have  seen  and  some  that  we  shall  see.  While 
the  ride  from  Canoas  to  Tamasopo  is  fresh  in  your  mind,  I  want 
to  ask  you  how  you  would  hke  to  take  that  ride  on  a  hand-car?  " 

"It  would  be  glorious,"  replied  the  Captain;  "a  regular 
toboggan  slide. 

"And  think  of  a  seventeen- mile  toboggan  slide,"  said  the 
Corporal.     "  That  rather  beats  Corey  Hill,  doesn't  it?" 

"  I  thought  so  when  I  took  it,"  said  the  Major.  "  It  beats  all 
the  rides  I  ever  took.  Last  August  a  party  of  two  came  over 
the  road  with  the  division  superintendent,  and  he  treated  us  to 
the  luxury  of  a  ride  through  the  caiion  on  what  they  call  a  trolley, 
which  is  a  large  hand-car  provided  with  seats.     I  needn't  under- 

269 


take  to  tell  you  how  I  enjoyed  it,  you  can  better  imagine  that. 
We  stopped  at  that  camp  where  we  saw  the  men  making  wall, 
and  there  we  saw  some  pheasants.  The  road  master,  who  joined 
us  there,  shot  one,  and  we  had  a  game  dinner." 

"  Is  there  much  game  about  here?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"  Yes,  all  along  the  line  from  Cardenas  to  Tampico.  There 
are  in  this  section  many  small  and  a  few  large  beasts ;  among 
the  latter  the  deer,  the  mountain  lion,  the  tiger,  the  jaguar,  the 
wolf,  and  the  bear,  among  the  former  the  fox,  the  wildcat,  the 
rabbit  and  squirrel.  Birds  are  plenty ;  along  the  rivers  and 
lagoons  below  here  are  thousands  of  wild  ducks  and  wild  geese 
and  other  water  fowl ;  quail  and  partridge  abound  in  the  interior, 
and  in  the  mountains  pheasants  are  plentier  than  blackberries. 
I  have  no  fancy  for  hunting,  but  from  all  I  can  learn,  after 
careful  inquiry,  I  think  that  the  country  between  Cardenas  and 
Tampico  offers  as  much  to  the  sportsman  as  any  equal  area 
on  the  continent." 

"  Pheasants  !  "  exclaimed  the  Corporal.  "  I  think  it  is  wicked 
to  shoot  pheasants,  they  are  so  confiding  and  innocent." 

"I  think  so  too,"  said  the  Captain;  "and  I  should  think  it 
would  be  almost  wicked  to  kill  anything  that  is  harmless  in  this 
sunny,  beautiful  climate,  where  everything  that  walks  or  flies 
seems  to  enjoy  life  so  much.  In  a  cold  country  there  may  be  an 
excuse  for  the  cruelty  of  killing,  but  here  there  is  none  what- 
ever." 

"That  is  about  my  own  idea,  boys,"  said  the  Major;  "but  if 
men  will  hunt,  this  is  a  good  place  for  them.  It  is  probable  that 
there  was  much  more  large  game  in  this  region  in  ancient  times, 
for  this  coast  country  was  once  more  thickly  populated  than 
now.  This  we  know  by  the  statements  of  explorers,  and  by  the 
ruins  and  remains  which  have  been  discovered  in  this  state  of 
Tamaulipas,  into  which  we  have  just  come  since  we  left  Choy 
Cave." 

"  What !  in  this  section?  "  asked  the  Captain  ;  "  ruins  !  " 


270 


"  Yes,  we  are  not  far,  at  this  moment,  from  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  city." 

"Anything  like  Tula?  "  asked  the  Corporal ;  "  let's  go  to  it." 
"  No,  not  much  like  Tula.  There  are  no  such  remains  as  are 
found  there.  These  people  did  not  build  of  stone,  but  rather  of 
wood  and  reeds,  so  their  houses  perished  with  them,  while  those 
at  Tula  could  neither  be  removed  nor  destroyed.  Probably  it  is 
not  Toltec,  but  almost  certainly  these  are  not  Aztec  ruins.  Noth- 
ing Aztec  is  found  near  the  coast.  It  is  more  probable  that  the 
people  who  lived  here  were  a  part  of  the  Maya  race,  which  left 
such  remarkable  evidences  of  their  superior  civilization  in  Yuca- 
tan.    But  really  nothing  is  known  about  the  matter.     Here  are 


some  curious  remains  of  a  strange  race,  and  that  is  all  we  know. 
Here  is  a  moated  platform  which  was,  perhaps,  the  site  of  a 
temple  and  a  sculptured  column  of  stone.  Beyond  are  scores  and 
perhaps  hundreds  of  flat-topped  hillocks  with  embankments  pro- 
tected by  slabs.  From  one  of  these  mounds  small  figures  and 
articles  of  pottery  have  been  obtained." 

A   little   farther  on  we  come   to  Tamos,  which   is  only  eight 
miles  from  Tampico ;  here  are  the  shops  and  other  buildings  of 


271 


the  operating  department.  They  were  estabUshed  here  because 
of  the  convenience  of  the  place,  it  being  on  the  river,  and  acces- 
sible by  steamer.  Here  you  see  the  PAnuco,  one  of  the  largest 
rivers  of  Mexico,  and  a  little  way  beyond  this  station  we  cross 
another  large  river,  the  Tamesi,  which  empties  into  the  Panuco 
just  below  the  bridge. 

"  How  agreeable  to  the  eye  these  rivers  appear  in  a  country 
which  is  so  largely  without  water  !  "  said  the  Captain. 

"There  are  many  more  streams  in  Mexico  than  are  seen 
by  the  traveller  by  rail.  Here,  for  instance,  we  see  these 
streams  for  the  first  time,  but  we  have  been  near  one  of  them 
or  its  tributaries  almost  all  the  way  from  San  Luis  Potosi. 
You  will  doubtless  be  surprised  to  he'ar  that  this  river  Panuco 
rises  in  the  foot-hills  lying  west  of  the  city  of  Mexico.  A  chip 
thrown  into  the  little  brook  called  Agua  Nueva,  flowing  down 
the  western  rim  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  would,  if  it  did  not 
get  stranded  on  the  way,  float  through  the  great  cut  of  Nochis- 
tongo,  under  the  bridge  at  Tula,  and  past  Tamos  and  Tampico 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Passing  through  six  states,  that  little 
bark  would  have  a  voyage  of  over  four  hundred  miles,  and  find 
itself  here  eight  thousand  feet  lower  than  when  it  started.  You 
will  see  by  this  statement  that  this  river  Panuco  drains  an  im- 
mense area  of  territory.  It  is  the  outlet  of  a  watershed  forty- 
five  thousand  square  miles  in  extent.  Boats  drawing  only  eight 
or  nine  feet  of  water  can  ascend  the  Panuco  eighty  miles, 
and  smaller  craft  can  go  up  another  eighty  or  one  hundred 
miles." 

"  And  at  high  tide  I  suppose  much  larger  boats  could  go  up," 
said  the  Captain. 

"  No ;  there  isn't  tide  enough  to  be  of  much  ser\'ice  in  that 
way.  If  a  boat  were  aground  and  only  needed  a  little  more 
water  to  float  her,  the  tide  would  help  her  of  course ;  but  there  is 
an  average  tide  here  of  only  fourteen  inches,  and  there  is  only 
one  high  tide  in  twenty-four  hours." 

272 


"  Why  !  how  is  that ;  I  never  heard  of  such  a  thing.  Every 
place  I  know  of  on  the  seashore  has  two  tides  a  day,"  said  the 
Captain. 

"  It  is  different  here.  This  gulf  is  something  of  a  little  sea  by 
itself,  and  seems  to  do  business  largely  on  its  own  account.  It 
has  little  connection  with  any  other  house,  as  the  advertisers  say. 
Look  on  a  map  and  you  will  see  that  Cuba  almost  shuts  off  the 
gulf  from  the  Atlantic  at  Florida,  and  from  the  Caribbean  Sea  at 
Yucatan.  By  reason  of  this  peculiar  relation  to  the  ocean,  the 
gulf  has  rather  odd  tidal  habits.  If  it  weren't  different  from  the 
rest  of  creation  in  its  habits,  it  wouldn't  be  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
hence  only  one  tide  a  day,  and  hence  also  the  numerous  bars  at 
the  mouths  of  the  rivers  which  empty  into  the  gulf." 

"This  river  seems  to  be  a  large  one,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  It  is  large  for  Mexico.  At  Tampico  it  is  one  thousand  and 
eight  hundred  feet  wide,  and  for  several  miles  above  here  it  has 
a  channel  eight  hundred  feet  wide  and  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet 
deep.  The  Tamesi,  which  enters  the  Panuco  here,  is  a  large 
river  too  ;  it  seems  as  if  such  streams  ought  to  be  made  of  use 
to  the  country." 

"Well,  aren't  they  of  use?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  They  haven't  been  worth  much  yet,  but  it  is  proposed  to 
give  them  a  chance  to  see  what  they  can  do.  That  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Panuco  has  hindered  commerce  here,  but  when  it 
is  opened  so  that  large  ships  can  come  to  the  wharves,  things 
will  be  different." 

Tampico  is  situated  on  the  river  Panuco,  six  or  seven  miles 
from  the  gulf.  Part  of  the  town  lies  but  little  above  the  lagoons 
which  seem  to  surround  it ;  but  the  better  part  occupies  higher 
ground,  from  thirty  to  sixty  feet  above  the  river.  It  is  a  pretty 
city ;  it  may  be  said  to  be  composite  in  its  architecture  and 
cosmopolitan  in  its  population. 

Of  course  it  is  Mexican,  but  only  partly  so.  Here  you  see 
pitched  roofs,  and  verandas  outside,  or  on  the  street  side,  of  the 

273 


houses.  The  everlasting  adobe  is  not  the  only  material  used  in 
construction ;  wood,  stone,  or  iron  takes  its  place  in  many  build- 
ings. It  is  said  to  be  against  the  law  to  paint  any  wall  white  in 
Tampico,  and  one  would  think  that  the  city  fathers  required 
every  householder  to  keep  his  place  neat  and  bright,  as  they  com- 
pel landlords  to  do  in  San  Luis  Potosi. 


bird's-eye  view  of  tampico  and  vicinity. 


1.  — Coast  Range  of  Hills. 

2.  —  Jetties. 

3.  —  Lighthouse  and  Jetty  Buildings  at 

La  Barra. 

4.  —  Mexican  Central  Railway  Docks  at 

Dona  Cecilia. 

5.  — Entrance  to  Lagoons  at  Tuxpan. 
6. —  Monterey  and  Mexican  Gulf  Rail- 
road Wharves. 

7.  —  Shipyard. 

8.  9,  10.  —  River  Front  of  Tampico. 
II.  —  Lagiina  del  Carpintero. 


12.  —  Bayou  from  Tamesi  River. 

13.  —  Pa'nuco  River. 

14.  —  Mexican  Central  Railway  Docks  at 

Tampico. 

15.  —  Mouth  of  the   Bayou  leading  into 

the  Panuco  River. 

16.  —  Tamesi  River. 

17.  —  Lagunas. 

18.  —  Pueblo  Viejo. 

19.  —  Chain  of  Lakes  and  Rivers  leading 

to  Tuxpan. 


Tampico  is  a  tinted  town,  barring  the  white ;  the  people  color 
their  houses  pink  or  green  or  blue  or  cream  or  other  color  as 
they  please.  The  combination  of  hues  suits  the  visitor  also,  gen- 
erally speaking,  although   there  be  spots  that  amuse  some  and 


274 


torture  others.  The  population  numbers  about  six  thousand,  but 
there  does  not  appear  to  be  among  them  the  usual  proportion  of 
the  very  poor.  No  one  need  starve  in  Tampico ;  if  he  can't  find 
work,  he  can  go  and  catch  fish.  He  is  sure  of  something  to  eat. 
Moreover,  wages  are  higher  in  Tampico  than  in  most  places  in 
Mexico,  for  many  of  the  men  had  rather  fish  than  work,  and  will 
not  work  unless  they  can  get  fair  wages  for  their  labor ;  but  there 
seems  to  be  plenty  of  work  to  do. 

"What  a  charming  plaza  they  have  here  !  "  said  the  Corporal. 

"  Yes,  its  charm  is  in  its  shade.  I  suppose  this  is  the  shadiest 
public  park  in  Mexico ;  but  you  see  you  can't  have  flowers  too. 
^Ve  can  get  flower  views  from  the  street,  however.  Look  at  the 
verandas ;  see  the  plants,  and  flowers,  and  vines,  almost  as  rich 
a  display  as  we  had  at  the  Cathedral  cave,  and  more  color  than 
we  had  there.  It  seems  as  if  the  city  fathers  must  require  every 
lady  to  decorate  her  house  front.  What  charming  pictures  these 
veranda  gardens  make  !  " 

The  authorities  look  after  the  health  as  well  as  the  beauty  of 
the  city.  They  employ  a  great  number  of  scavengers,  who  work 
for  nothing.  These  not  only  receive  no  pay,  but  "  find  "  them- 
selves. They  are  the  flocks  of  ravens  which,  in  consideration  of 
service,  are  accorded  "  a  right  to  life,  liberty,  and  the  pursuit  of 
happiness  "  anywhere  and  everywhere  in  the  city. 

"  Well,  boys,  now  we  shall  have  a  trip  down  to  the  gulf,  for  the 
commodore  of  the  Mexican  Central  Navy  has  invited  us  to  go 
with  him  on  the  '  Orinda'  down  to  the  bar.  We  shall  have  a 
fine  chance  to  see  the  jetties,  and  to  get  acquainted  with  His 
Majesty  the  Gulf.  You'll  find  the  Commodore  to  be  the  best 
fellow  you  ever  sailed  the  sea  with.  He  will  make  you  feel  that 
you  are  conferring  a  favor  on  him  by  making  a  trip  with  him." 

The  sail  down  the  river  is  delightful.  It  gives  one  a  fine  view 
of  the  city  and  a  good  idea  of  the  surrounding  country.  The 
town  appears  to  have  a  considerable  elevation,  and  with  its 
straight   streets,    its   variegated    houses,    its    sloping    roofs    and 

275 


church  towers,  presents  a  pretty  view  from  the  river.  The 
breeze  which  one  encounters,  aUhough  sUght,  makes  a  welcome 
contrast  to  the  close,  stifling  air  of  the  town  in  summer.  The 
water  front  is  a  notable  feature  of  the  "  view  of  Tampico." 
Here  are  wharves,  and  not  moles  as  at  Vera  Cruz.  Here  vessels, 
ranging  from  schooners  to  ocean  steamers,  are  discharging  and 
receiving  cargo  without  the  intervention  of  lighters.  Ship  and 
rail  come  together  at  Tampico,  which  is  now  a  port,  a  veritable 
harbor.  It  can  no  longer  be  said  truthfully  that  "  on  the  whole 
gulf  coast  there  is  no  good  harbor  easy  of  access,  or  any 
sheltered  anchorage."  The  jetty  work  has  already  changed  all 
that ;  a  fact  of  immense  importance,  not  only  to  the  whole  Re- 
public of  Mexico,  but  also  to  every  nation  in  the  world  engaged  in 
foreign  commerce.  On  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  in  and 
below  the  city,  one  sees  the  railroad  stations,  their  warehouses 
and  wharves ;  farther  down,  at  La  Barra,  the  administration  and 
other  houses  pertaining  to  the  jetty  company,  and  last  of  all,  on 
the  sandy  shore  of  the  gulf,  the  government  lighthouse. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  in  the  state  of  Vera  Cruz, 
directly  opposite  Tampico  and  facing  a  large  laguna,  is  Pueblo 
Viejo,  or  Old  Town,  a  neighbor  now,  but  perhaps  the  ancestor 
of  the  new  city.  It  may  some  day  catch  the  spirit  of  the  century 
and  become  an  important  feature  in  the  work  of  development. 
Below  this  is  a  shipyard,  but  the  Panuco  does  not  yet  rival  the 
Kennebec  or  the  Clyde  in  the  matter  of  shipbuilding.  The 
shore  on  the  Vera  Cruz  side  is  generally  low  and  marshy.  Four 
miles  below  Tampico  we  come  to  the  entrance  of  the  canal  by 
which  small  vessels  may  pass  to  lagunas  and  streams  extending 
down  the  coast  to  Tuxpan.  Below  this  canal  the  shore  becomes 
bolder,  and  on  the  elevated  ground  in  this  vicinity  we  may 
behold  "  Tampico  Highlands,"  or  a  seaside  residence  place 
under  some  other  attractive  name. 

"  Here  is  the  gulf,"  exclaimed  the  Corporal,  as  the  boat 
began  to  heave.     "  Don't  you  feel  it?" 

276 


"Yes,  here  it  is,"  said  the  Commodore,  "and  it  is  a  little 
rough  to-day,  but  we'll  go  out  over  the  bar  just  the  same." 

"  And  these  are  the  jetties,"  remarked  the  Captain  in  a  tone 
that  indicated  disappointment ;  "  they  don't  seem  very  impres- 
sive." 

"They  are  nothing  but  walls,"  added  the  Corporal.  "That 
isn't  much  of  a  show,  I'm  sure." 

"True,"  said  the  Commodore,  "they  don't  show  very  much, 
but  they  are  for  business,  and  not  for  show.  They  are  not  in- 
tended to  impress  visitors ;  their  purpose  is  to  repress  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  or  at  least  the  rushing,  pushing  part  of  it  called  the 
Gulf  Stream,  and  its  rampageous  partner  called  the  'Norther.'" 

"Well,  Major,  what  is  a  jetty?"  asked  the  Captain  ;  "is  it  only 
a  wall?" 

"  No,  it  is  not  '  only  a  wall ' ;  not  every  wall  is  a  jetty,  is  it? 
Suppose  we  say  it  is  a  projected  wall ;  literally  the  word  means 
a  projection,  something  thrown  forward." 

"  I  see  ;  we  say  '  projectile  '  in  speaking  of  things  thrown  out 
by  a  gun  or  a  cannon,  and  we  speak  of  a  jet  of  water  or  of 
steam." 

"  Exactly,  and  jetties  are  structures  thrown  out  into  the  sea  to 
arrest  the  action  of  the  ocean  current  which  prevents  a  free 
discharge  of  the  river  into  deep  water ;  they  do  not  stop  the 
current,  of  course,  but  they  compel  it  to  keep  off  farther  from 
the  shore  line,  and  thus  give  the  river  current  a  chance  to  reach 
deep  water." 

"  Has  the  work  here  been  a  success?  "  asked  the  Captain. 

"I  should  say  it  has  been  a  big  success,"  answered  the  Com- 
modore ;  "  we  had  only  six  to  eight  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  when 
the  work  was  begun ;  now  we  have  eighteen  feet,  and  soon  we 
shall  have  twenty-four  feet,  and  that  is  all  we  want  for  the  largest 
steamers.  There  is  no  doubt  about  our  success.  Notice  now 
how  jetties  are  constructed.  Piles  are  driven ;  a  trestle  and  track 
are  laid  on  them  about  twelve  feet  above  the  water ;  material  is 


277 


brought  on  cars  just  over  the  spot  where  it  is  required,  and  then 
dropped.  On  a  timber  framework  bundles  of  brush  are  fastened 
in  layers  lengthwise  and  crosswise,  making  a  mattress  about 
ten  feet  wide  and  six  feet  thick.  This  mattress  is  loaded  with 
rock,  and  sunk ;  larger  stones  are  then  thrown 
upon  it  to  hold  it  down.  A  pyramid  of 
mattresses  is  built  up  ;  the  a 
lowest  layer  is,  say,  sixty  'P 
feet  in  width,  the  next  fifty 


feet,  and  so  on,  to  the  top.  Small  stones  are  dumped  upon  the 
slope,  and  these,  together  with  the  drifting  sand,  which  the  sea 
kindly  contributes,  make  a  smooth-faced  solid  wall  which  the 
waves  may  slide  up,  but  cannot  lift  or  move." 

"  How  many  tons  of  rock  did  we  estimate  had  been  brought 
to  the  sea?"  asked  the  Major. 

"Something  more  than  half  a  million  tons,"  answered  the 
Captain.  "  And  here  we  can  see  only  the  tops  of  two  walls 
made  by  that  enormous  quantity  of  rock  !  How  little  shows  ! 
but  weight  and  work  have  made  a  safe  harbor." 

"How  long  are  these  walls?"  asked  the  Corporal. 

"  Seven  thousand  feet  each,  and  one  thousand  feet  apart," 
answered  the  Commodore. 

"Are  the  jetties  completed?"  asked  the  Captain. 

"Nearly;  the  work  of  'crowning'  is  not  done  yet,  but  the 
walls  will  not  be  extended  farther  unless  we  find  that  the  river 


278 


needs  still  more  assistance  to  reach  deep  water  with  its  load. 
This  bar  must  go,  and  work  will  be  continued  until  it  does  go. 
The  jetties  now  reach  into  twenty- two  feet  of  water,  but  if 
necessary  they  will  be  pushed  out  another  thousand  feet." 

"What  is  the  bar  made  of.  Commodore?"  asked  one  of  the 
boys. 

"  A  little  of  everything,  —  sand  and  shells,  old  schooners  and 
steamers." 

"  Steamers  !  what  do  you  mean?  " 

"Just  what  I  say.  We've  fished  up  parts  of  two  or  three 
vessels.  You  can  see  the  old  iron  and  brass  at  the  dock  in 
Tampico.  I  suppose  they  got  aground  here,  and  a  norther  came 
along  and  knocked  them  to  pieces.  This  Gulf  makes  nasty 
navigation  when  he  is  mad,  but  let  him  rage  all  he  wants  to, 
ships  can  get  out  of  his  clutches  and  find  safe  shelter  in  the 
Panuco ;    the  river  will  beat  the   gulf   after  this  year." 

"  They  have  had  a  long  fight  of  it,"  said  the  Major. 

"  The  Gulf  is  an  old  salt,  and  didn't  like  having  fresh  water 
poured  into  him,  I  think ;  but  he's  taking  kindly  to  it  now,  and 
I  guess  the  old  chap  will  behave  himself  for  the  good  of  his 
country." 

"  Shake  hands.  Commodore ;  I  am  glad  to  hear  you  say 
'guess,'"  said  the  Major;  "  that's  downright  Yankee  ;  it  makes 
me  feel  at  home." 

"  Guess  is  good  enough  for  me,"  said  the  man  of  Cape  Cod. 
"I  don't  have  any  'fawncy'  or  'reckon'  or  'allow'  in  my  dic- 
tionary. Well,  I  guess  we'd  better  go  ashore ;  we  want  a  dip  in 
the  gulf,  don't  we?" 

"A  dip,"  exclaimed  the  boys,  "we  want  a  swim." 

"All  right,  but  don't  swim  out  too  far;  there  are  sharks  in 
these  waters,  and  they  like  white  boys." 

Landing  at  La  Barra,  the  party  hastened  to  the  beach,  and 
soon  in  the  surf  they  forgot  for  half  an  hour  all  about  sharks, 
jetties,  canons,  cities,  caves,  and  ruins ;  they  remembered  only 

279 


the  sea.  On  the  way  back  to  the  "  Orinda,"  they  stopped  at 
the  company's  administration  building,  where,  on  the  broad 
veranda,  they   enjoyed   the   sea   breeze   for  a  while,  and  in  the 

rooms  of  the  engi- 
neers looked  over 
some  of  the  maps 
and  drawings  of  the 
jetty  work. 

"  I  hope  we  shall 
have  a  model  of  the 
jetties  at  the  Colum- 
bian Fair,"  said  the 
Commodore  ;  "  few 
people  know  any- 
thing about  jetties." 
"  Without  doubt  a 
model  of  this  work 
would  be  an  inter- 
esting thing."  said 
the  Major  ;  "  I  saw  a 
model  of  the  Eads 
Mississippi  jetties  at 
the  exposition  in 
New  Orleans  ;  it 
was  very  attractive 
because  of  its  nov- 
elty, and  of  course  it 
was  an  educator  on 
the  whole  subject  of  harbor  improvemen:.  The  importance  of 
this  enterprise  to  Mexico,  as  you  say,  cannot  be  over-estimated." 
Returning  to  the  "Orinda,"  a  quick  trip  was  made  to  the  city. 
On  the  way  up  the  river  the  Commodore  told  the  party  all  about 
the  difficulties  which  had  to  be  overcome  in  the  progress  of  the 
construction  of  the  jetties  and  in  the  opening  of  the  channel ;  he 


TAMPICO  LIGHTHOUSE. 


280 


enlarged  on  the  beauties  of  the  "  back  country  "  about  Tampico, 
and  on  the  general  features  of  the  region  which  are  attracting  the 
attention  of  both  Mexican  and  American  capitalists.  He  said 
that  there  is  a  large  section  of  the  Republic  easily  accessible  now 
from  Tampico  which  offers  the  greatest  opportunities  for  devel- 
opment and  rich  results,  including  coffee  lands,  sugar  lands, 
tobacco  lands,  and  territory  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  valuable  products  of  a  tropical  climate.  The  Huesteca 
country  (mentioned  in  the  records  of  Americus  Vespucius)  was 
described,  and  the  party  came  near  being  persuaded  into  taking 
a  trip  through  that  remarkable  region  by  way  of  boat  to  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Panuco,  and  then  by  burro  to  the  El  Dorado. 
They  also  wished  to  go  up  the  Tamesi  and  investigate  the  won- 
derful deposits  of  asphaltum  said  to  be  found  there ;  but  when  it 
was  stated  that  a  syndicate  had  obtained  control  of  them,  our 
sentimental  travellers  gave  up  all  thoughts  of  trying  to  pre-empt 
land  of  any  kind  in  Mexico. 

"  Glad  to  hear  that  there  is  so  much  wealth  in  store  here  for 
enterprising  Americans,"  said  the  Major ;  "  the  railroad  will  no 
doubt  develop  all  this  region,  which  has  so  long  lain  dormant, 
into  a  productive  country." 

"  It  is  bound  to  do  it,"  replied  the  Commodore.  "  Capital  is 
already  coming  in,  and  considerable  land  has  been  taken  up. 
Well,  here  we  are  at  the  wharf.     Had  a  good  time,  boys? " 

"  Splendid,"  replied  both,  "  and  we  are  indebted  to  you  for  it. 
We  shall  never  forget  this  trip." 

The  evening  was  spent  on  the  plaza  chiefly  in  emptying 
schooners  of  lemonade,  and  talking  about  the  new  era  that 
has  dawned  upon  Mexico.  To  the  delight  of  the  boys,  a  fishing 
excursion  was  arranged  for  next  day. 

"  The  red  snapper  is  a  mighty  fine  fish,"  said  the  Commodore  ; 
<'and  then  there  is  the  tarpon,  he's  big  game." 

"Tarpon!"  exclaimed  the  boys.  "Are  there  tarpon  here? 
Out  in  the  gulf?  " 


"  Right  here  in  the  Panuco.  You  are  in  a  gamy  country 
when  you  are  in  Tampico.  Really  you  oughtn't  to  go  away  till 
you've  caught  a  tarpon." 

"  Oh,  we  can't  leave,  Major,  till  we've  caught  a  tarpon  or  have 
seen  you  or  the  Commodore  catch  one.  We  can  stay  over,  can't 
we?" 

"  We  can  stay  a  day  or  two  if  you  wish  to,  but  I  am  not  sure 
we  can  stay  till  we  catch  a  silver  king.  Tarpon  are  like  deer  ; 
you  hear  a  good  deal  about  them,  but  seldom  see  them." 

"Go  with  me,  however,  and  I'll  show  you  some  good  snapper 
fishing,  or  I'm  no  fisherman." 

"  Of  course  I  can't  resist  such  a  temptation.  Commodore. 
I  surrender  to  overpowering  numbers,"  said  the  Major. 

Great  expectations  were  realized  in  the  visit  to  the  fishing 
banks  just  south  of  the  jetties.  There  was  plenty  of  fish  and 
plenty  of  fun,  and  besides  there  was  anticipation.  Snappers ! 
the  bite,  the  fight,  the  fish  —  the  big  beauties.  Each  boy  was 
catching  snappers  all  the  way  back  to  Tampico  and  saying  nothing 
about  it.  Anticipation  was  all  they  had  with  regard  to  tarpon ; 
for  when  the  Commodore  went  to  see  about  his  boat,  he  found 
that  some  one  had  borrowed  the  sail  without  his  permission,, 
and  no  other  suitable  craft  could  be  procured  for  the  occasion. 

The  afternoon  was  filled  with  delightful  episodes,  under  the 
guidance  of  the  Commodore.  The  party  took  a  ride  to  some 
interesting  places,  and  were  surprised  to  find  such  pleasant 
nooks  in  a  region  which  appeared  from  the  river  to  be  so  unin- 
viting. Another  evening  on  the  plaza,  enlivened  by  music, 
closed  the  visit  to  Tampico.  The  party,  being  under  necessity 
of  rising  early  to  take  the  train  back  to  Aguas  Calientes,  sought 
the  shelter  of  the  mosquito  netting  correspondingly  early. 

The  return  trip  to  the  main  line  is,  if  possible,  more  charming 
than  that  to  the  coast ;  as  nearly  all  the  fine  scenery  of  the  divis- 
ion is  encountered  between  Tampico  and  Cardenas.  On  the 
trip  eastward  the  passenger  has  a  view  of  the  valley  of  Canoas 


2S2 


and  of  the  canon  of  Tamasopo  by  the  morning  light ;  returning 
he  sees  them  by  the  afternoon  Hght.  He  gets  a  better  idea  of 
the  marvellous  engineering  on  the  mountain  as  he  ascends  it 
seated  on  the  rear  platform  of  the  Pullman,  and  sees  himself 
soaring  higher  and  higher  above  the  plain  and  valley  below.  If 
I  could  take  a  trip  but  one 
way  over  this  or  any  other 
famous  mountain  line,  I 
w^ould  choose  to  make  the 
ascent  rather  than  the  de- 
scent ;  one  has  thus  a  con- 
stant series  of  dissolving 
views  before  him  and  an 
endless  panorama  of  mag- 
nificent proportions. 

Rascon  is  reached  at 
dinner-time.  Soon  after 
the  train  is  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  and,  from 
two  o'clock  until  five,  we 
are  passing  through  the 
magnificent  scenery  of 
Tamasopo  canon.  The 
great  plain,  with  its  occa- 
sional palms  and  frequent 
fields  of  cane,  is  before  us 
for  an  hour  or  more  as  we 
rise,  and  vanishes  only  as 
we  turn  round  Prospect 
Point  to  skirt  the  moun- 
tain above  the  gorge.  In  another  hour  we  come  to  the  home  ol 
the  cypress  and  the  pine,  and  stop  for  a  moment  at  cozy  Canoas. 
Running  round  the  rim  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  Ln  Labor  for 
anotner  half-hour,  we  pass  out  of  it  through  a  cut,  ard  at  supper- 


283 


time  reach  Cardenas.  We  have  seen  enough  for  one  day ;  we 
are  glad  to  have  night  come  and  shut  out  the  common  world, 
while  we  are  under  the  enchantment  of  beauty.  At  noon  of  the 
next  day  we  arrive  at  Aguas  Calientes,  having  passed  once  over 
the  whole  Mexican  Central  Railway  line,  and  twice  over  a  part 
of  it.  We  complete  the  circuit  now  by  our  journey  northward 
and  homeward. 

The  journey  to  the  border  was  even  more  entertaining  to  the 
boys,  in  some  ways,  than  their  trip  southward,  and,  although  not 
so  novel,  was  never  uninteresting;  everything  in  Mexico  is 
picturesque,  and  a  constant  delight  to  the  intelligent  traveller. 

"  Have  you  thought,"  asked  the  Major  as  they  were  approach- 
ing the  Rio  Grande,  "  what  a  large  part  of  this  country  you  have 
seen  on  this  trip?  You  have  seen  nearly  all  the  large  towns, 
and  have  passed  through  eighteen  of  the  twenty-nine  political 
divisions  of  the  Republic.  You  have  sailed  round  Mexico's 
largest  lake,  you  have  seen  its  longest  river,  its  greatest  cataract, 
and  its  loftiest  mountains.  You  have  visited  the  gulf,  and  have 
been  within  two  hundred  miles  of  the  Pacific.  All  this  and 
much  more  you  have  reached  by  the  Mexican  Central  Railway." 

"  Really  I  hadn't  thought  we  had  seen  such  a  large  part  of 
the  whole  country." 

"  Mexico  is  only  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  miles 
long,  and  about  seven  hundred  miles  wide.  This  road  is  one 
thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length  north  and 
south,  and  about  six  hundred  miles  in  length  east  and  west. 
So  you  see,  it  practically  serves  the  whole  of  Mexico." 

'*  Father  will  be  a  little  surprised,  I  think,  when  we  report  how 
much  we  have  explored  the  country,"  said  the  Captain. 

"And  more  surprised,"  added  the  Corporal,  "when  we  tell 
him  that  we  have  had  a  much  cooler  summer  vacation  in  Mexico 
than  he  has  had  at  Manchester-by-the-Sea." 

"And  still  more  surprised,"  added  the  Major,  "when  I  show 
him  what  your  excursion  has  cost." 


"  A  large  bill  I  am  afraid,  for  we  have  been  everywhere  and 
have  had  everything  that  we  needed,  and  a  great  deal  that  we 
didn't  need,"  said  the  Captain. 

"  No,  not  a  large  bill ;  he  will  be  surprised  at  its  small  amount, 
Mexico  is  the  cheapest  country  in  the  world  to  travel  in,  if  the 
traveller  is  content  to  accept  such  entertainment  as  the  best 
hotels  in  the  country  afford." 

"  But  railroad  fares  are  high,  aren't  they?  " 

"  No,  the  fare  from  El  Paso  to  the  city  of  Mexico  and  return  is 
only  fifty  dollars ;  where  can  you  travel  in  the  United  States  two 
thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  for  that  sum?  The  fare 
from  Chicago  to  the  city  of  Mexico  and  return,  fifty-seven  hun- 
dred miles,  is  eighty-eight  dollars  and  sixty  cents.  Nowhere  else 
in  the  world  can  you  make  so  long  a  journey  in  first-class  style 
for  that  amount  of  money.  To  the  city  of  Mexico  and  return 
from  New  York  or  Boston,  seventy-eight  hundred  miles,  costs 
only  about  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  dollars." 

"Those  figures  are  certainly  small  ones  for  so  long  a  journey," 
said  the  Captain ;  "  but  people  generally  think  of  Mexico  as  a 
far-away  country,  and  of  the  trip  as  very  expensive.  But  really, 
San  Francisco  is  farther  from  Boston  than  the  city  of  Mexico  is." 

"  Not  only  is  the  railroad  fare  low,"  added  the  Major,  "but 
the  cost  of  living  in  Mexico  is  small,  very  small  indeed,  to  a 
tourist,  as  his  bills  are  payable  in  Mexican  money,  and  exchange  is 
largely  in  his  favor." 

"Oh,  yes,  taking  that  into  account,"  said  the  Captain,  "travel 
in  Mexico  costs  less  than  in  any  other  country  in  the  world." 

"  This  is  an  interesting  and  an  important  fact.  Americans, 
who  are  great  travellers,  will  doubtless  be  glad  to  hear  it,  and  if 
they  make  the  excursion  they  will  find  our  statements  correct." 


Information  as  to  rates,  and  a  great  deal  of  other  valuable  in- 
formation   concerning  a  trip  to  Mexico,   may    be    obtained    by 


28s 


addressing  any  of  these  ofificials  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  : 

E.  A.  White,  Gen.  Pass.  Agt.,  City  of  Mexico,  Mexico. 

M.  H.  KiXG,  Asst.  Gen.  Frt.  and  Pass.  Agt.,  236  South  Clark  St., 

Chicago,  111. 
J.  J.  Allen,  Eastern  Agt.,  261  Broadway,  New  York. 
C.  E.  Miner,  Gen.  Trav.  Agt.,  105  No.  Broadway,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 
T.  R.  Ryan,  Commercial  Agt.,  105  No.  Broadway,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

Whoever  follows  the  directions  which  these  gentlemen  will 
cheerfully  give,  on  request,  will  see  all  that  is  mentioned  or 
hinted  at  in  the  foregoing  pages,  and  much  more  besides.  As  we 
stated  in  our  cautionary  preface,  our  purpose  has  been  to  outline 
and  to  briefly  sketch  an  itinerary  which  cannot  fail  to  interest 
and  entertain  any  intelligent  man,  woman,  or  child.  We  close 
our  pleasant  task  with  the  hope  that  many  who  have  given  their 
time  to  the  reading  of  these  imperfect  notes  of  travel  will  give 
themselves  the  pleasure  of  a  trip  to  Mexico.     Si,  Senor. 


286 


INDEX. 


Abra  de  Caballeros 
Academy,  Military     . 
Academy,  San  Carlos 
Aduana  'Custom  House)  . 
Agents  of  Mexican  Central 
Aguadores  .... 
Aguas  Calientes . 
Aguila,  Marquez  de  la 
Ahuehuete  .... 
Augustin,  San     . 
Ahuitzotl,  Statue  ol    . 
Alameda      .        -         .         .35 
Aldama        .... 
Alh6ndiga  de  Granaditas    . 
AUende        .... 
Altar  of  the  Kings 
Altitudes     .        .        15,  109, 
Alvarado     .... 
Amecameca 
Americus  Vespucius  . 
Anahuac      .... 
Angel,  San .... 
Angelo,  Michael,  of  Mexico 
Angels,  Fruit  of  the    . 
Anita,  Santa 
Antiquities. 

Aqueducts  .... 
Arbol  de  la  Noche  Triste   . 
Arcades  (Portales) 
Army  of  Mexico . 
Artesian  Wells    . 
Art  Gallery 

Atequiza      .... 
Athens  of  America 
Atzcapatzalco 
Augustin  I.,  Emperor 
Avenida  Juarez  . 
Axayacatl,  Statue  of  . 


PAGE 

.     261 
-     198 

•  17s 
20,  23,  25 

.     28s 
102,  238,  247 

•  70 

102 
.     206 

•  95 
140 

77.  135.  156 
153,  240 

•  236 
153.  240 

•  153 
9,  215,  218 

.     158 

177,  182 

.     242 

.     119 

170,  204 

.       96 

.     212 

163,  165 

153.  '74.  208 

35,  loi,  202 

•  159 
35.  151 

•  199 
.     20 1 

■     175 
.     227 

.       3oS 

.       202 

.       130 

•        131.  136 

140 


PAGE 

Ayotla,  Olive  Trees  ol        .         .         .     182 

Aztec  Antiquities        .         .      153,  174,  208 

"      Celebrations      .       142,  168,  171,  184 

"      Palaces      .....     149 

"      Pericles 208 

"      Race 120 


B. 

Back  Burdens 
Bajio,  The  . 
Balcony  Scene 
Banner  of  Cortes 

"  "  Hidalgo 
Baptists  in  Mexico 
Barranca  del  Infernillo 

"         de  Rio  Lerma 

"  "  Encarnacion 

Baths  at  Aguas  Calientes 

"       "  City  of  Mexico 
Beans,  Mexican 
Bear,  Playing  the 
Bells,  Clanging  . 
Black  Birds  of  Tampico 
Blowing  the  Kiss 
Boca  del  Abra     . 
Bolson  de  Mapimi 
Bones 
Bridge  at  Lagos 

"     "  Tula 

"     "  Encarnacion 
Brigida,  Santa    . 
Bucareli,  Viceroy 
Buena  Vista  Station  . 
Bufa,  Cerro  de  la 
Bull  Fights 
Burdens,  Bearing 
Burros 
Buzzards  (Zopilotes) . 


60,  122 
92 
138 
'75 
175 
161 
213 
233 
81 
73,  77 
•  143 
89,  220 
76,  138 
74.  100 
275 
T36 
264 
42 
65.  238 
82 
III 


133 
202 
122 
56 
204 

60,    122 

17.  54,  217 

212 


287 


c. 

Cadets  of  Chapultepec 
Calera 

Calendar  Stone   . 
Calle  de  los  Muertos  . 
"    "  San  Francisco 
Calzadas 
Camacho 

Campanas,  Cerro  de  las 
Canal  at  Aguas  Calientes 
"     de  Nochistongo 
"       "  Tequizquiac 
"       "  la  Viga 
Cancer,  Tropic  of 
Candy  Station     . 
Canitas 

Canoas  Valley     . 
Cardenas 
Cargadores 
Carlotta,  Empress 
Casas,  Bartolom^  de  las 
Casas  Grandes    . 
Castillo,  El 
Castle  of  Chapultepec 
Cathedral  Cave  . 
Cathedral  of  Chihuahua 
"  "  Guadalajara 

"  "  Mexico  . 

"  "  Puebla    . 

"  "  San  Luis  Potosi 

"  "  Zacatecas 

Causeways 
Cave  at  Amecameca  . 
"     "  Chapultepec 
"     Cathedral  . 
"     Choy 
"     La  Ventana 
Cazadero,  Plain  of      . 
Celaya,  City  of   . 
Cemeteries  (Panteons) 
Century  Plant     . 
Cerro  de  las  Campanas 

"       "  la  Estrella    . 
Chalco,  Lake 
Chapala,  Lake    . 

"         Town  of 
Chapultepec 
Charles  IV.,  Statue  ol 
City  of  Mexico 


96 


50 
153 
210 

145 
207 
46 
103 
71,78 
115 
16, 210 
162 
46 

95 
46 

254 
253 

60,  122 
104,  143 
175 
III 
228 
200 
265 

34 
230 

149,  152 
209 
249 
59 

159.  189 
184 
198 
265 
268 
267 
109 
95 

204,  237 

"3 
103 

166,  205 
118,  172 

22D,  223 
.   225 

•   197 

139.  147 

.   250 


Chicalote  . 
Chichimecs 
Chihuahua,  City  of 

"  State  of 

Chinampas 
Chirimoya  . 
Cholula 
Choy  Cave 
Church,  Protestant 

"      Roman  Catholic 

"      Santa  Brigida 

"      San  Diego    . 

"      Santo  Domingo 

"      San  Francisco 

"      San  Hipolito 

"      La  Profesa 
Churubusco 
Ciudad,  La 
Clothing 
Coaches 
Coatepec 
Coffee  Grove 
Cologne  Cathedral 
Colors,  Mexican 
Columbus   Monument 
Comonfort,  President 
Convent  of  Santa  Clara 
Cordoba 
Corn  Crop 
Cortes,  Hernando       .       133, 

"       Fleet 
Costume  of  the  Natives 
Cotton  Region 
Courting,  Mexican     . 
Coyoacan    . 
Cross  of  Querdtaro 
Cuauhtemoctzin,  Home  of 
"  Statute  of 

"  Sketch  of 

Curatii,  Mexican 
Custom  House  . 
Cypress  Trees 


D. 

David  and  Goliath     . 
Dead,  Street  of  the    . 
Delicias,  Las 
Diaz,  President  Porfirio 


119 

31 
27,  42 
165 
212 
209 
268 
161 
161 
133 
155.  157 
155 
132 
158 
133 
204 

19 
7,  33 
123 
211 
258 
59 
5.  129 
141 
133,  160 
100 
212 
220 
140,  158,  205 
208,  210 
33 
43 
138 
204 
99 
167 
141 
205 
98 

20,  23,  25 
197,  206 


210 

38 

201 


PAGE 

Diego,  Juan,  Indian  . 

.      190 

Diego,  San,  Church  of 

•     IS7 

Dishes,  Washing  the . 

•      9° 

Dog,  Chihuahua 

•       35 

Dolores,  Panleon  de  . 

.     204 

Drainage     .... 

.     116 

Dulces,  Mexican 

•       95 

Durahgo      .... 

42.  44 

Eagle  Pass  Route 

•       44 

Eastern  Features 

56,  62 

Education   .... 

.     156 

El  Abra       .... 

.     262 

El  Castillo  .... 

.     228 

El  Paso       .... 

lo,  15 

El  Salto  del  Abra        . 

.     261 

Emperor  Augustin  I. 

•     130 

Empire  of  Maximilian 

.     104 

Encarnacion 

.       81 

Escalon        .... 

■       42 

Esperanza   .... 

.     212 

Eulalia,  Santa,  Mine  . 

■       34 

Evangelista,  The 

■     155 

Expenses  of  Trip 

.     284 

Excursion  Rates 

.     285 

Fair  God,  A 

143. 

146 

Fairs  in  Mexico 

77 

Falls  of  El  Abra 

261 

"     "  Juanacatlan 

228 

Fares,  Railway 

285 

Feast  Days 

77. 

184 

Fertility  of  Lands 

.    28, 

38,92, 

165 

Festivals,  National 

193 

Feudal  System    . 

37 

Flag,  Mexican    . 

18, 

129 

Floating  Islands 

165, 

170 

Florido,  Valley  of  the 

40 

Flower  Market   . 

154 

Foreigners  in  Mexico 

120 

Fountain  at  Zacatecas 

62 

Fourth  of  July    . 

77. 

240 

Francisco,  San,  Chihuahua 

34 

"             "       Mexico     . 

132 

Fresas          .         .         .        '. 

93 

French 

104 

Fresnillo 
Frijoles 
Funeral  Cars 


FACE 

•      5° 


Gallego 

28 

Game           .... 

242, 

270 

Gante,  Padre  Pedro  de 

1^2 

Garden  of  San  Marcos 

74 

.  77 

Gardens,  Floating 

165, 

170 

Garden,  Zoological 

207 

Garitas 

122, 

164 

Glorietas 

140 

God,  A  Fair 

'43. 

146 

Gondolas     . 

162 

Gonzales,  Gen.   . 

201 

Grades 

52, 

252 

Grito  de  Dolores 

240 

Guadalajara 

229 

Guadalupe,  Zacatecas 

63 

"             Shrine  of 

.     .89 

193 

Guanajuato 

.       89 

234 

Guatimotzin  (see  Cuauhtemoct 

zin)    . 

141 

Guerrero,  Vicente,  President 

isq 

Gulf  of  Mexico  . 

272 

Gutierrez     . 

46 

Hacienda     .... 

29.37 

"         ofAtequiza 

.     227 

"         Mescal 

■     243 

Muller 

29,36 

"         Peotillos 

.     250 

Harbors  of  Mexico     . 

.     276 

Hercules  Mill     . 

.        lOI 

Hidalgo       .          34,  103,  142, 

153. 

17s.  240 

Hill  of  the  Star   . 

166, 

169,  205 

Hipolito,  San 

.     158 

Horcasitas  .... 

■       38 

Horalii 

.       98 

Hospicio  of  Gundalajara    . 

•     231 

Hospitals  of  Mexict.n  Central 

Ry. 

32.  7' 

Hotel  Iturbide    . 

.     128 

"     del  Jardin  . 

.     132 

"      Plaza 

•      73 

"     Zacatecano 

•       57 

Huitzilopochtlih  Idol 

•     '74 

Hunt,  The  Great 

.     109 

289 


I. 


91,    IOO| 


Idol,  Aztec 
Images,  Sacred  . 
Independence  Day     . 
Inquisition  .         . 

International  Railway 
Interoceanic  Railway 
Intervention,  French  . 
Inundations         .... 

Irapuato 

Irish,  Spanish  Viceroy 
Irrigation     ..... 
Iturbide,  Emperor       .      129,  153, 
Hotel   .... 

Ixtacalco 

Ixtaccihuatl         .... 
Ixtapalapa 


PAGE 

•  174 
184,  189 

77.  240 
154.  157 

•  44 
208,  211 

104 
83, 116 
93,  220 

•  29 
81,  92 

184,  194 

.     128 

163,  165 

•  '79 
.     166 


J. 


Jalapa 

Jalisco 

Jardin  Hotel 

Jetties  at  Tarapico 

Jimenez 

Jimulco 

Jos^,  San,  Church  of 

Juanacatlan,   Falls  of 

Juan  del  Rio,  San 

Juarez,  Benito,  President 

"       City 

"       Tomb  of 


K. 


Kings,  Altar  of  the 
Kiss,  Blowing  the 


.     210 
.     220 

•  13a 
■     277 

40,  153,  240 

•  45 
.     Ill 

220,  228 

•  109 
9,  104,  142 

•  19 
.     160 


153 
136 


La  Barca 220 

La  Barra     ......     279 

La  Casteiiada      .....     204 

Lagos 82 

Laguna 29,  43 

La  Joya 213,  253 

Lake  Chalco       .         .         .         .      ii3,  172 
"     Chapala     ....      220,  223 

"     Patzcuaro 208 

"     Pevernaldillo     ....      68 


Lake  Texcoco    . 

"     Xochimilco 

"     Zumpango 
Lands,  Fertility  of 
Landscape  Colors 
Language,  Spanish 
Languages,  Other 
La  Palma    . 
La  Piedad   . 
La  Profesa  . 
Las  Casas,  Bartolom^ 
Las  Vegas  . 
Laundry,  Mexican 
Leather  Work     . 
Leg  of  Saint  Simon 
Legends 
Lefia   . 
Leon   . 
Lerdo 

"        President 
Lerma,  Rio 
Library,  National 

"       Railroad  Men's 
Life  of  Common  People 
Locomotive,  The  largest 
Lottery 
Love-making 

M. 

Maguey,  The 

Maize  (Corn) 

Maltrata 

Mantilla 

Manufactures 

Mapimi,  Bolson  de     . 

Marfil 

Market  in  General 

"        Flower  . 

"        San  Juan 
Martyrs,  Chapel  of    . 
Massachusetts  of  Mexico 
Maximilian 

Meals  .  4,  25, 

Medina 
Mejia,  Gen. 
Memorial  to  Cadets    . 
Mendoza,  Viceroy 
Mescal         .        » 
Mescala 


PACE 

119 
163 
116 

38,  89,  165 

45 
,  120 
120 
225 
220 
133 
176 


171 
109 

85 

43 

}i,  204 

226 

133 
124 
60 
260 
'9.  137 
133 


213 


84,  85,  lOI 

•  42 

•  234 

•  65 

•  154 
■  134 
.  158 

•  97 
103.  175 

51,  70,88 

.     216 

103,  161 

•  199 
.     109 

114,  243 
224 


290 


PAGE 

Methodists  in  Mexico 

161 

Metlac  Canon     . 

212 

Mexicalcingo 

166 

Mexican  Army  . 

199 

"        Railway 

212 

"       Central  Railway 

5 

284 

Mexico,  a  Summer  Resort 

6 

"      City  of 

125 

-195 

"       Federal  District 

121 

"       Republic  of 

14. 

120 

"       People  of 

•       36, 

136, 

178 

Michael  Angelo  of  Mexico 

96 

Military  School 

198 

Mills  . 

lOI, 

229 

Mines,  Rich 

217, 

237 

Mints 

34 

Miraculous  Spring 

169 

Miramon,  Gen.  . 

103, 

161 

M  ixcoac 

204 

Moat  . 

122, 

158 

246 

Monte  de  Piedad 

150 

"       Sacro 

178, 

184 

Monttzuma's  Bath 

259 

Cave 

198 

"              Chair 

28 

Palace 

149 

Shield 

175 

Tree 

206 

Monuments 

139. 

159. 

199 

Monument  Rock 

257 

Moon,  Pyramid  of 

210 

Morelos 

155. 

158, 

241 

Moss,  Spanish     . 

207 

Mule,  The  . 

6,  211, 

215. 

245 

Mummies    . 

238 

Museum,  National 

149. 

173 

N. 


Napoleon  III.     . 

104 

National  Library 

133 

"         Holiday 

240 

"         Museum 

149 

173 

Palace 

149 

Native  Languages 

120 

Navy 

200 

Nevada,  Sierra  . 

118, 

182 

Netzahualcoyotl,  Prince     . 

208 

Niagara  of  Mexico 

220, 

228 

Noche  Triste 

,58, 

159 

Nochistongo,  Canal  of 
Nopal,  The 
Noria,  The 
Nuns,  Capuchin 

o. 


PACE 

■  "5 

■  247 
•     245 

196 


Oaxaca,  City  of . 
Occupations 
Ocotlan,  Town  of 
"       Shrine  of 
Offerings     . 
Ojo  Caliente 
Old  Mexico 
Oldest  European  Article 
Olive  Trees  of  Ayotla 
Opals 
Orchids 

Oranges,  Smoked 
Organo  Cactus    . 
Oriental  Features 
Orinda,  Steamer 
Orizaba 
Orphanage,  Zacatecas 
Otomites 


201 
121 
221 
210 

169 


III 
Mexico  .      92 


.  106 
.     207 

•  253 
.  83 
56,  62 

•  275 
210,  213 


Pachuca 

•     "5 

215 

Palace,  National 

149 

Panduro,  Artists 

232 

Panteon  de  Dolores  . 

204 

"          San  Fernando 

159 

"          at  Guanajuato 

237 

Panuco,  Rio 

•     113, 

272 

Parral 

40 

Parrots 

.     260 

267 

Paseo,  in  general 

71.85 

105 

Paseo  de  la  Reforma  . 

134.  139 

M? 

Paso  del  Macho  . 

212 

Paso  del  Norte    . 

20 

Passion  Play 

.     i63, 

184 

Patience  of  the  People 

60 

Patio   .... 

21, 

216 

"      Process 

216 

Patzcuaro  Lake  . 

208 

Pawn  Shops 

150 

Pedregal,  The    . 

■        I7O1 

206 

Penjamo     .         .         .         . 

220 

Penon  Blanco     . 

244 

291 


PAGE 

People  of  the  Country                36,136,178 

Peotillos,  Hacienda  of 

.     250 

Perez,  Juan         .... 

.     222 

Pericles,  Aztec    .... 

.       2C8 

Picardias 

•       44 

Pilgrimage  to  Sacro  Monte 

•     177 

Pilot  of  "  Chapala"    . 

.     222 

Plains  of  Mexico 

•       45 

Plateau,  The 

6 

Playing  the  Bear 

.     138 

Plaza  (General)   .         .        ig,  21 

,  73,  76,  85 

Plaza  Mayor  de  la  Constitucior 

•     145 

"     de  Santo  Domingo     . 

•     154 

Plowing       •         •         .         . 

.       40 

Politeness  of  the  People 

135.  136 

Poncitlan    . 

.     227 

Pool  at  Aguas  Calientes 

73.  77 

"    "    Puente  de  Dies 

•     259 

Popocatepetl 

•     179 

Population  . 

.     120 

Portales 

35.  151 

Pottery 

51,  68 

Presas 

.       81 

Presbyterians  in  Mexico 

.     i6r 

Presidents  of  Mexico 

.     204 

Processions,  Religious 

.     185 

Profesa,  La,  Church  of 

■     133 

Profile  Map 

.     252 

Promenades 

76.  135 

Prospect  Point  . 

•     257 

Protestant  Churches 

.     161 

Puebla,  City  of  . 

.     2oq 

Puente  de  Dios  . 

.     258 

Pulpit,  Oldest    . 

.     209 

Pulque,  Story  of 

.     113 

Pyramids     . 

.     209,  210 

Querdtaro   ......       97 

Quetzalcoatl,  God  of  Air  .  .     209 

Quicksilver ai6 

Quiet  Habits  of  People     .        .      136,  178 


R. 


Railway,  Mexican  Central         .         3,  284 
Rascon         ......     260 

Rates  of  Fare 285 


PAGE 

Reading  Room  at  Station  .  .     124 

Real  del  Monte 218 

Reboso 33.  84 

Reception  Committee  .       32,  123,  222 

Reforma,  Paseo  de  la  134,  139,  143 

Religion      ......     161 

Reservoirs  ......     239 

Restaurants         .         .   4,23,32,40,51,70 
Rhode  Island  of  Mexico     .         .         .    209 

Rio  Grande 15 

"     Lerma  .        .        .        .        .226 

"     Panuco        .        .  .113,  272 

"     Tula     ......     112 

Roman  Catholic  Church     .         .         .     161 
Rosalia,  Santa     .....      39 

Ruins  .         .         .      Ill,  208,  210,  271 

Rurales,  The       .....     199 


S. 

Sabino,  The 
Sacred  Springs  . 
"       Images  . 
Sacrificial  Stone 
Sacro  Monte 
Salamanca 

Salinas  del  Penon  Blanco 
Salt  Lake    . 
Salutations 
San  Angel 
San  Augustin 
San  Jose 
San  Juan  del  Rio 
San  Luis  Potosi  . 
San  Marcos  Gardens  . 
San  Pedro  . 
Santa  Cruz . 
Santiago  and  Cross     . 
Santa  Rosalia     . 
Schools 

Seward,  Secretary 
Shield  of  Montezuma 
Shrines 

Sierra  Mojada     . 
Sierra  Nevada    . 
Silao   .... 
Smelting  Works 
Soledad 
Sombrero    . 
Smoking  Habit,  The  . 


206 

168,  198 
I,  184,  189 

•  174 
178,  184 

95 
244 
244 
136 
204 

.  133 
III 
109 
247 
■74.  77 
232 

99 
99 
39 
156 
106 
175 
177,  190 

•  42 
182 
.92 
249 

68 
95 
17 


118, 


292 


PAGE 

Springs,  Sacred 

168,  198 

Standard  of  Cortes 

•     175 

"        "     Hidalgo 

•    17s 

Star,  Hill  of  the. 

166,  205 

Station  at  Juarez 

21 

"      "  Mexico 

.        122 

Stations  for  Meals      .         .      25 

32.  40.   50 

Statistics     .        .        .        .        . 

120, 161 

Statues         .... 

139.159 

Statuette  of  yourself  . 

•       232 

Steamer  on  Lake  Chapala  . 

.       222 

Stone,  Calendar 

•       153 

"        Sacrificial 

•       174 

Strawberries  the  Year  round 

•       93 

Straw  Hats 

•      94 

Street  Cars 

56,  148 

Street  Scenes 

.      60 

Street,  Main,  of  Mexico     . 

•     14s 

Street  of  the  Dead 

.     210 

Sulphur       .... 

.     180 

Summer  Resort  . 

6,  284 

Sun,  Pyramid  of 

.    210 

Sunday  in  Mexico 

•     134 

Sweetmeats 

•      95 

Table  Lands  (see  Plateau). 

Tacuba        ......     202 

Tacubaya    .         .         .         .         .116,  203 

Tajo  de  Nochistongo  ....     116 

Tamasopo  Canon        .         .         .         -255 
Tamesi  River     .....     272 

Tamos         ......     271 

Tampico 242,  273 

Tapalo 84 

Tapia,  Fernando  de    .         .         .         .98 

Tarpon         ......     281 

Tenochtitlan        .....     125 

Teotihuacan        .....     210 

Tepeyacac  (see  Guadalupe). 

Tequila        ......     114 

Tequizquiac  Tunnel  .         .         .      116,210 
Texcoco,  Lake   .         .         .         .116,  195 

"        Town  .....     208 

Tide,  Gulf 272 

Tilma  of  Juan  Diego  .         .         .     190 

Tizapan       ......     225 

Tlalpam 204 

Tlamacas 180 


Tlaxcala 

Toboggan  Railroad   . 

Tolsa,  Work  of  . 

Toltecs 

Toluca 

Tomb  of  Juarez 

Torreon 

Tortilla 

Traditions  . 

Trains 

Travel  in  Mexico 

Tree  of  the  Sad  Night 

Tresguerras 

Tropic  of  Cancer 

Tula    .... 


82,  98 


V. 


PAGE 
159,  209 
258, 269 

133.  139 
no,  114 
208 
160 
44 


158,  171 
26 
285 
159 
96 
46 
no,  215 


Ulmeca,  The      . 

.     119 

Ulua,  San  Juan  de 

212 

United  States  and  Mexico 

.     106 

United  States  Legation 

•     157 

Ursula,  St.,  Church  of 

.     238 

Valley  of  Mexico 

.     n8 

.76 

Ventana,  La        .         .         . 

267 

Vera  Cruz,  City  of 

212 

Vespucius,  Americus 

242 

Vessels,  Cortes' 

.      208 

210 

View  from  Chapultepec     . 

207 

"    Hill  of  the  Star 

.     170 

172 

"        ofMaltrata    . 

214 

"  Puebla 

209 

Via  Crucis  .... 

186 

Viga  Canal 

162 

Villar           .... 

252 

Virgin  of  Mexico 

190 

Volcanic  Hills    . 

170 

Volcanoes   .... 

156 

Votos  at  Shrines 

169 

194 

Vultures  (Zopolites)  . 

212 

w. 

Walls  of  the  City  ....  122 
Washing  Dishes  ....       90 

Water  Carriers  .  .  .  102,238,247 
Water  .Supply  of  Mexico  .  .  198,  202 
Water  Works  of  Chapala  .         .         .     225 


29.3 


PAGE 

Y. 

Water  Works  of  Guanajuato 

239 

PACK 

"            "      "    Ocotlan   . 

222 

Ysidro,  San 

.    252 

"            "       "    Quer^taro 

lOI 

Yturbide,  Emperor     . 

130,  241 

"            "      "   San  Luis  Potosi 

247 

"         Theatre 

.        .     los 

"             "       "   Zacatecas 

62 

Westminster  Abbey    . 

.       160 

Wheat  Crop         ....       89,  220 

Z. 

White  House  of  Mexico    . 

.       200 

Wood  by  Weight 

•      55 

Zacatecas     .... 

•      54 

Xochitl,  The  Flower  of  Tula 
Xochimilco,  Lake 
Xocotopec 


114.  175 

.     163 

225 

• 


Zaragoza,  Gen.  ....      160,  209 

Zapotec  Indians  ....     120 

Zarape         .  .  33i  84 

Zocalo  ......     147 

Zoological  Garden      ....     207 

Zopilotes     ....  .     212 

Zumpango,  Lake         ....     116 


294 


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